HZJ Series Heavy Duty Slurry Pump(ISO2858, ISO5199, API682)
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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1. Introduction
Conform tp ISO2858, ISO5199, API682 standard
Max operating pressure 2.5Mpa
Range of capacity 4~3240m3/h
Total head 7~115m
Range of operating temperature -20~180oC
Max particle diameters 3~115mm
Max solid content 60%
2. Application
It is used to convey high-concentrated corrosive slurry containing a great deal of solid materials.
3. Materials
For wetted parts in contact with medium, the common materials are as followings,
MCU, DTM, M-3, and Cr15Mo3.
4. Pump Seal
171C, 171CL mechanical seal
Dynamic seal
5. FAQ
1 How can I get trained on CNBM products?
Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
2 Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
3 Do you have self-priming pumps?
Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.
- Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?
- It sounds like you have two pressure tanks. I am going to guess that the one under your pump probably went out and instead of taking it out and re-plumbing everything they just spliced in a new tank. You can get a re-build kit for most pumps but it sound like your pump is pretty old and probably being held together with faith and rust and taking it apart might cause more problems. What I would do is price out what the re-build cost and what labor might be against what a new system might be. If you decide to go with a new system I would suggest looking into getting a submersible pump, using the same tank but making sure it is in a good location and plumbed with a union. when your pressure tank finally goes out it is going to weigh a ton and trying to move it around plumbing can be difficult. good luck and happy holidays.
- Q: What's the function of the engine pump?
- Random occurrence of Internet cafes; on; come; time; two ah is a few karma; feeling ah; ah, just
- Q: okay i just put a new camshaft in my truck and before my water pump seemed to work but it leaked a little bit but my truck never got hot well i drove it a little bit after puting in the new camshaft and the top radiator hose and heater hose was warm but the bottom radiator hose was cold so i think my water pump went out but not to sure thanks to any answers
- I would check the thermostat. But you don't check it like the first answer indicates. Pull the thermostat out. Look at it if it is open it is bad. If it is closed put it in a pot of boiling water. If it does not move it is bad. This may seam like allot to go through but if it is not the thermostat your only out the cost of a new gasket. And you know for sure. If there is nothing wrong with the thermostat , than you aren't getting circulation. A few causes would be: Cooling system clogged water pump bad internal leak or external leak. If you have a leak the system can't build pressure.It will take a long time to warm up and or it will make you think it is over heating but it will only be a leak. It will also run hot. NEVER OPEN A RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. YOU WILL BE GOING TO THE HOSPITAL TO HAVE YOUR BURNS TREATED!!!
- Q: how do you change the water pump
- Replacing the water pump requires removing the timing belt because it is timing belt driven, so the timing belt should be changed at the same time. Standard practice is to replace the water pump when the belt is changed to avoid duplicate labor later.
- Q: water pump on a Suzuki forenzakia optima
- The suzuki ( I done it for a 05 due to you had no year); OEM Part cost Water Pump 1740085Z00 $203.67 Water Pump Replace 2.0 hours Timing Belt 1276185Z01 $92.05 Timing Belt Replace 1.8 The cost of doing the water pump and timing belt; Parts: 295.72 Labor : 3 hours times the shop labor rate. The kia has what engine in it???
- Q: Installed new water pump on 90 Jeep. Noticed antifreeze around the edges of the pump. Took it off, replaced with new gasket and sealer, but it seams to be leaking again.
- Most likely cause: old gasket/sealer was not fully removed prior to installing new gasket. The gasket surfaces must be absolutely clean. Possible incorrectly machined gasket surface on replacement pump, but that's highly unlikely.
- Q: I was recently driving and noticed my heat gauge in the red. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 door LX. When I opened the hood what appears to be water was all over the place. Is this the water pump or something else? I want to fix it this weekend so I was hoping for a better understanding of what it might be. I am aware of the labor involved with the water pump and removing the timing belts to get to it. Thanks a bunch in advance!
- Almost certainly not the water pump. It will leak from the weep hole on the back of the block, near the timing belt housing if it fails, and that won't produce coolant all over the engine. My daughter's 1993 Accord water pump failed and I had a hard time seeing the leakage because most of it happened gradually when on the road. Even if the shaft leaked because the weep hole was plugged it would be inside timing belt cover, not spraying all over. My bets are on a hose, especially near the thermostat housing where the heat is the highest. The thermostat is in a housing on the back edge of the engine - follow the lower radiator hose (weird, huh?) back to the housing. Several hoses come together there. The thermostat isn't going to cause the leak but you need to know where the housing is. The radiator is also a major suspect. As long as you got the engine stopped pretty soon after the overheating began the head gasket is going to be okay, too - it is not a good suspect for the symptoms you have so far. The easiest way to see where the leak is when there is that much loss is to refill the radiator with purified water - never put tap water in the cooling system except in an emergency - and let the engine idle until you see it dripping on the ground (remove the splash guard under the nose) or spraying under the hood.
- Q: How does a pump pump water?
- Centrifugal pump is centrifugal force, and household deep well pump is primary pressure
- Q: Recently my ford aerostar van started pouring water from the weephole of the waterpump and all my oil was just disappearing leaving just foam on the dipstick...we drained what oil was in it and there was antifreeze in the oil so we figured it was a blown head but it it possible for antifreeze to leak into the oil due to a bad waterpump?
- Yes it is possible. The reason I say that is because if you had a bad water pump and your vehicle overheated that can bust a head gaske, crack a head, crack a block, or a combination. If yo have anyone of those then your antifreeze and oil will mix. So indirectly, yes. If it is only a bad waterpump and nothing cracked then it is not possible.
- Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
- The first thing I was taught on Volvo water pumps was to use NO sealer. Get yourself a new gasket.Make sure the block is clean. Install the gasket on the two studs. Grease the heater pipe o-ring after installing on the pipe. Grease the hole it fits into. Install the top seal on the water pump and coat the surface with grease. Install the pump on the block and make sure the pipe has entered the pump. Tighten the two nuts until the pump is almost contacting the block but still moves easily. Insert a smaller Phillips head screwdriver into the bottom bolt hole of the pump and into the block. Lift the pump ,using the screwdriver ,until you can start the top bolt.Then use the screwdriver to wiggle the pump to start the left side bolt. Once you have started those two bolts,the bottom one will go right in. Tighten it all up and install the heater pipe bolt and you are done.
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HZJ Series Heavy Duty Slurry Pump(ISO2858, ISO5199, API682)
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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