• GPB-90 Type High Pressure Triplex Plunger Pump System 1
  • GPB-90 Type High Pressure Triplex Plunger Pump System 2
GPB-90 Type High Pressure Triplex Plunger Pump

GPB-90 Type High Pressure Triplex Plunger Pump

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
100 set/month

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The high pressure triplex pump GPB-90 is widely used now as a power equipment for slurry injection.
   
The special bush structure between crank shaft and connecting rod at power frame
    high strength ,strong wear ability ,good lubrication ,small friction coefficient , stable driving at the power end ,lower temperature ,suitable for continuous duty ,operation simple, safely and realiable making the disassembly easier ,saving time and effort
   
It can be used in following fields, the reinforcement in new building, high expressway ,railway, subway and the like, the treatment for old building sedimentation, the construction of waterproof wall for reservoir, dam and engineering, the construction of breast wall, leakage blocking in mine and the wall protection of well ,coal excavation with high pressure jetting, hydraulic liquid supply in well, the large underground pipes cleaning, chemical industry ,stiletto with high pressure water ,other fields as well
   
Technology parameters

Our company is the drafting company of the Chinese high pressure pump Industry Standard.

Our products have a wide range of applications, such as 

1. Industrial pipe cleaning 

2.Shipyard rust removal, paint removal

4.Aviation: expansion joints, grease, rubber and hydraulic fluid on runways cleaning.

5.hydropower station/ dam/dike concrete work treating.

6.Casting clean scale removal rust removal paint, removal sand.

7. Pipe pressure test, hose pressure test, hydro pressure test, etc.

Our company has passed European CE Certificate, ISO9001:2000 certificate,ISO 14001:2004 certificate, and AAA Credit Rating Certificate. It’s a member of Waterjet Technology Association (WJTA) in USA and National Standarlization 


Q: How to install circulating water pump for cooling tower?
This should be installed at the inlet of the cooling tower. The water at the outlet of the cooling tower is returned to the pool
Q: Pump head is too high what's the impact?
Water pressure is too large, energy consumption is too high, you can choose near the flow of Yang Cheng
Q: yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry
You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.
Q: they say a water pump going bad is supposed to weep out of that hole....Yet I see that a new water pump kit has two gaskettes.some o rings....is it likely that it can leak from these sources and still not come out the weep hole?They talk about berring that could go bad or seals gone bad...does this occure in the area that gets inserted into the engine( the turbine portion of the pump)if you had to guess..where is the most likely area for a water pump to fail...if seems like I have wetness off to the left( back toward the firewall) and less off to the right( front of the car)..more off the left..it is very subtile off the right.I don't see anything coming out of the weep hole..BUT the weephole is directly on top( dead center)and back towards the engine in this model. I have the car jacked up on the passengers side/next to the wheel wellso the fluid is most likely to flow backwards toward the drivers side.
Here's the deal. You have to look at your cooling system as a whole system, not just a collection of parts. What makes you suspect the water pump? Is the vehicle overheating? Are you loosing coolant? How many miles are on the vehicle? Everything is a clue to the answer. Where is a pump most likely to fail? Anywhere. A lot of times the impeller will break, but sometimes the gaskets rot out, sometimes the housing itself cracks, sometimes the bearing freezes up. Could be a couple different things. I am assuming by your description you have some type of transverse motor. Could a bad water pump be spraying coolant all over your firewall? Sure, but so could a bad hose or bad clamp somewhere. A hole in the radiator could spray coolant that far back under pressure, although you would probably see moisture around the radiator as well. It's impossible to say without inspecting the vehicle in person. My personal opinion, stay away from the big name parts retailers employees unless you KNOW they know what they are talking about. Some of them do, many don't. They are hired to sell parts, not diagnose problems. Even if they do know about vehicles they can't give an accurate diagnosis without looking first hand. You are better off to find a small local shop with a good reputation and have them look at your vehicle for you.
Q: The water pump doesn't seem to be leaking but I do have a leak under the engine in a place I can't get to. The water doesn't seem to be getting to the upper hoses of the engine. I do hear a odd sound like lose rocker arms but its hard to tell where its coming from.This engine is to big for this boat there is no room to work on it except to pull the engine. What was Four Winns thinking??? A simple fix is a major repair. Thanks
Welcome to the world of boating.We used to have to cut out a hole on the seats to change oil filters on the first service. I feel your pain! Your recirculating pump and your raw water pump are two separate systems. If your upper hoses are running dry I would check the raw water pump first. The rocker noise would concern me more. To separate the noise, run the engine on a garden hose attached to the incoming line inside the boat from the raw water pump when the lower unit is removed for the raw water pump job. That will separate the possible sources for the noise. If the noise followed the lower, check u-joints, gimbal bearing, gear housing. If it is still there, check the oil for water, and the recirculating pump, and valve lifters.(who knows, it might actually be a lifter.)
Q: can i drive my car ,with a blown water pump, 5 miles to a service center?
fill radator with water leave radator cap lose keep eye on temp gadge dont over heat if gets hot pullover an let cool down for a 1/2 hour an finich run to severce station won herart any thing as long as you dont over heat an most car insurance will renburse tow have to pay first an mail bill ti insuranse company a nother opson
Q: I replaced the water pump on my 350 chevy small block with a new water pump and the thing is leaking out of the lower bolt hole on the passenger side. I was told to remove the bolt and coat it with permatex hi tack gasket sealer and reinstall it Any how I'm wondering why there would be a leak there in the first place, any ideas?
Remove the new pump and gasket. Reclean the steel surface and remove any pieces of the old gasket that might still be attached. That surface needs to be perfect. Apply the recommended sealer after this is done . Either a sealer or anti-sieze compound should be added to the threads. Recheck surface of new pump for any flaws and reinstall. Bolt in a criss -cross pattern and tighten equally , partially tight first and then all of them fully tight.
Q: 2004 chevy impala 3.4 v6 The small leak is right behind the pulley of the water pump. Car is not overheating .the leak is only for a little while then it stops . water pump seems to be working fine but the leak ,what could it be ?
Unfortunately, this quite often requires a new pump. It can be feasible (however not going) that the gasket is leaking - extra probably, the seal around the pulley shaft is the hindrance. Substitute is the one choice. Almost always, that is done while because the timing belt - has this been executed yet? If it was once executed before you obtained the car, its viable they tried to save lots of a few bucks via skipping the water pump. This is in most cases a foul move - the pump as a rule wears out at in regards to the same time - but it's cheaper, if they have been planning on getting rid of the car quickly. And when you consider that one quite often needs to be removed to access the other...You get the thought. Excellent success!
Q: could it be the water pump??
Head Gasket.
Q: 89 Dodge van overheats, no water leak, replaced thermostat but still overheats.
this sounds more like a radiator problem, or possibly an electric fan, if there is on. Usually the water pump will lose the weep hole gasket on the bottom of the water pump and dump water when its running, but quits when you stop. A water pump bearing can start to sieze, you may notice temp fluctuating almost to hot, then drop back down. Take off the radiator cap when the vehicle is cold and start it up. let it idle until the thermostate opens. and watch the water in the radiator to see if it circulates at all as someone slowly raise the idle up to 2 thousand rpm, and rev the engine a few times, and see if the coolant momes across the radiator. It may be your thermostate is stuck partway, or the radiator is ready for a rebuild, they generally are good for about 20 years or so. I suggest using distilled or filtered water in your radiator if you replace it. There are many harmful chemicals in tap water, much more than people realize, and they can combine with chemicals in antifreeze and cause solder rotting electrolysis. By using distilled water, you minimize this risk and studies by major radiator companies have been proven to make radiators last a lot longer if a minimum amount of care is taken, like changing antifreeze every few years, and using distilled water as much as possible. I buy mine in the gallon jugs. and top off the overflow occasionally.

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