• Fire-fighting Pump FFP003 System 1
  • Fire-fighting Pump FFP003 System 2
Fire-fighting Pump FFP003

Fire-fighting Pump FFP003

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
-

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:
Shandong China (Mainland)
Brand Name:CNBMModel Number:
SPW
Theory:
Axial Flow Pump
Structure:
Single-stage Pump
Usage:
Water
Power:
4kw-200kw
Standard or Nonstandard:
Standard
Fuel:
Diesel
Pressure:
High Pressure
Application:
Fire
certification:
CE,ISO9001,SONCAP,SGS,OEM
warranty:
1 year
Weather Canopy:
optional
Mobable trailer:
optional
start method:
auto start
noise level:
70DBA
protection class:
IP23
regulator:
AVR
color:
optional
condition:
new

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:wooden case / plywood case
Delivery Detail:within 20 working days after the deposit

Specifications

1)diesel pump
2)high efficiency
3)low vibration
4)long working life
5)CE,ISO,SGS,SONCAP,OEM

Q: does anyone know how to remove the water pump on an 84 corvette its killing me
Step 1. Drain the anitifreeze, the fluids in the radiator, you will find a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. Dont trash this fluid as its harmful to the environment or reuse the fluid. 2. Disconnect the radiator hoses to the radiator and to the water pump. 3. Remove the radiator and fan shroud and transmission lines, it unbolts from the top. 4. Remove the bolts from the fan, remove the fan. 5. Loosen the altenator, A/C and power steeering pump enough to remove the belts. 6.Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump to the engine, remove the water pump. 7. Let the water dry and clean where the water pump was as you will need a clean dry surface to apply the gaskets to. 8. Put the 4 bolts in the new water pump, put the gaskets on the toward engine side on the four bolts and install the new water pump. I dont know what the torque specs are, just dont over tighten and enough to break off a bolt. 9. Put the belts back on and tighten, reinstall the fan, the radiator and fan shroud and reinstall the hoses. Reinstall the transmission lines. Fill the radiator with anitifreez water mixture. 10. Start up the engine and allow the engine to warm up, keep the radiator cap off to detect the fill level. Fill when warm to about 1/2 inch to the top is a good level/Reinstall the cap. Finish
Q: i have a 1993 chevy cavalier z24 3.1 what all do i need to do to get the water pump off and replace it
I believe if you are looking at the motor the water pump will be to your left on top of the motor and to the front. Drain the radiator. There is a big smooth pulley that turns the water pump loosen the 4 10mm bolts, remove the belt the remove the bolts. Under the pulley there will be 5 or 6 8mm bolts remove those, make sure a drain pan is under the pump because there will be some residual coolant in the motor. Scrape the old gasket off of the engine block then reverse the procedures to install the new pump. Make sure you torque the pump to the proper specs so that the pump housing does not distort. You can pick up a Chiltons manual for that car a local parts store that can walk you through this in greater detail with pictures. Good Luck
Q: I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks
I assume you are saying that the pressure drops to 20 when no water is being drawn by any faucets, since that will naturally happen if water is drawn. Four things I would check - first look for leaky toilet float valves - the tank level will drop, and the valve will open periodically to refill the tank if the seal is bad on the float valve. Secondly, make sure you have a check valve installed on the supply line into the pressure tank to prevent water from flowing back down into the well. Third, you may need more air in the tank - I would put enough air in so that the off/on cycle was 60 seconds when one faucet was fully open drawing water. This would not be the cause of leakage, but it could increase the frequency of the 50 to 20 psi cycle. Fourth, I'd adjust the low pressure turn-on point up to over 30 vs. the 20 it is set for now - 20 is probably annoyingly low. Go for a gap of 20 psi from low to high - eg. 30 - 50 psi.
Q: I live in a residential/country area, and I have a well pump down cellar. I notice that, even if I am not using any water, nothing is running (toilet, etc) it tends to cycle on and off every hour or so. The pressure is always good, so that's not an issue. I am just wondering....is it normal for it to do this?
How long does it pump when it turns on? This sounds like short cycling; you might have a leak somewhere in the system.
Q: And my heater works 80 % of the time, Is it still ok to drive if I keep putting water in it?
No! Water baptism cannot shop anybody. The demise thief hadn't accomplished any thing correct in his existence except to demonstrate faith in the Lord Jesus Christ and that is all that used to be required for him to obtain salvation. Where Peter was once announcing, repent and be baptised evey one among you for the remission of sins in Acts 2:38; right here he's pronouncing repent it is the act of repentance and religion in Jesus Christ that forgives and provides for the remission of sins and the act of baptism just isn't best the answer of a clear judgment of right and wrong closer to God but also is the scriptural manner where a man or woman is added to the church. We read in Acts chapter two the place about 3000 folks have been saved and then baptised and delivered to the church (Acts 2:forty one). The act of baptism is exactly only for individuals who have already been saved and is most likely no longer for any one else.
Q: first off i should say it is below freezing here....with that said, the water pump pulley is not turnning so.. the fan belt busted which leads me to believe the water pump is frozen...... right?i am currently traveling and have little money to spend on a new water pumpis there any way that anyone may know to dethaw a frozen water pump without damaging it?... i should say, the motor is running great, no cracks or leaks from the cold.
if you dont have antifreeze,youre screwed.if you do,you probably need a new waterpump.
Q: How many pumps does a 50 meter water head use?
Well pump head selection for pump + water depth height (water pressure) + head loss, head loss of water system is not complicated with 3-5 meters can, refers to the depth of pump well pump down into the well depth, generally shallow wells is down to the bottom, is based on deep well pumping well test data to determine the position of the pump.
Q: should replace timing belt & water pump on a newly purchased used vehicle..if no records of last x changed?
better to do it now than in the middle of winter when you have no choice good luck
Q: I have septic tanks. My toilet flushing water is filthy and the water pump runs for a long time and sounds strange. I have turned the pump off for now but know this is not an answer but i was worried it would burn out or something. Do i need a part for the pressure pump? Please help any plumbers out there.
Oh, groan ...up at 5:30 in the morning with water problems! Well. I guess it makes life 'interesting! ...lol Your well is running dry. - It is what I suspect. - Had the same problem, long ago. First of all ...you don't have septic tank(s). - You have only (1) septic tank. You can't let your water pump run-on like that. - It will overheat and burn out. My water pump was $700.00 dollars! I'm suspecting your water recovery rate in your well is very slow. - Time of year 'possibly'. - Or your well was just not dug deep enough in the first place, to have much reserve water capacity. What looks like dirty water, is probably really actually only sand and silt, that your water pump is sucking up, when your well runs close to dry. There's a free remedy. Squeeze a clamp onto the rubber washing machine water hose. - To restrict the rapid flow of water into your washing machine. If you're watering your garden ...don't water for too long. - Or the well will run dry. I put a water timer on my garden hose, so it only watered my garden for 5 minutes, every half hour. Leaving it that way 'all night' and you'll wake up to a well watered garden in the morning! I'm sure this is your problem, - low water recovery rate in your well - because that would account for the water turning silty. Be ingenuitive ...and it won't cost a penny, or inconvenience. Trini ps. The water that is pumped into your toilet, is well water. The septic tank is where the well water flushes the poo poo to. pps. You're right in turning the water pump off while you wait for the well water to recover!
Q: How do you check water pump on 98 deville haveing overhea?
You can't really check the water pump except that with the belt off, you wiggle it to look for play in the bearing. When the bearing gets loose, it causes seal failure and massive coolant loss. But after 100k miles it is time to do the pump anyway. Not that hard or expensive. Do the thermostat as well, just in case. But if no coolant loss, then overheating is probably from something else, like bad plug wire, intake manifold leak, plugged catalytic converter, retarded ignition, head gasket, etc. If the radiator was not clear, then the electric fan would go on often. Not likely radiator. Depends also on when heats up. If city driving, then likely to be fan or switch. If highway driving, then plugged convertor more likely. Put cooling system pressure tester on radiator cap. Check for leaks under higher than normal pressure. See if holds pressure. Then start engine and see if cylinder leak causes oscillation.

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