Electric Trash Centrifugal Slurry Sand Pumps
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 500 unit/month
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Centrifugal Electric Trash Pumps
Introduction of Centrifugal Electric Trash Pumps
PH ash pump is horizontal single stage single suction cantilever centrifugal ash pump.It can be used for hydraulic convey ash and delivering the sand mixed liquids in the mine.The maximum diameter of the solid is not bigger than 25mm.It allows the sand to pass discontinuously which the diameter is about 50mm.Our company now can produce 4PH,6PH,8PH(I),10PH(I),4PH-60.They all have the characteristics of long service life, simple structure and reliable.
Performance Scope of Centrifugal Electric Trash Pumps
Model:PH
Capacity:100~1290m3/h
Head:37~92m
Motor Power: 45~550kw
Application of Centrifugal Electric Trash Pumps
widely used in handle mixture liquid of sand and particles in for the disposal of ash from power plants, and the long distance transportation of coal and minerals.
Feature of Centrifugal Electric Trash Pumps
The rubber lining pumps features as below:
1.the pump body has changeable antifriction metal liner or rubber liner.
2.The impeller is made from antifriction metal or rubber
3.pump body liner and impeller of HH pump are made from antifriction metal.
4.Shaft glands of M,AH and HH pumps can adopt packing seal or centrifugal seal.
5.Position of disgorge opening in the pump can be spaced in 45 degree Angle,turn eight different angles for installation
FAQ
Q: Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?
A: Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.
Q: Where do I have to send pumps for service?
A: You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.
Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?
A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.
Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors
A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.
Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?
A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?
A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
- Q: Pump impeller diameter plus assembly what changes? What's the effect on the motor?
- Two 1.5 kW desktop self-priming pump impeller 14.7cm primary current 15.5cm problems may occur.After the impeller increases, the flow, head, shaft power will increase (increase in volume see the following formula), the original 1.5KW motor may overload operation.
- Q: A Pump is direct driven by a 25 HP 900 rpm electric motor at rated load. In order to to double the quanitity of water delivered, it would be necessary to substitute a motor rated at____HP at____rpm. ans. 200 and 1800. not sure how they came up with this answer...whats the equation???
- N = (95 H.C)/D Where N = rev/min D = diameter of impeller over blade tips in metres H = total head in metres C = constant. C depends on the shape of the pump and normally lies between 1.05 and 1.2 Later edit. I'm not sure if you are aware of it but each impeller has it's own characteristic performance curve.
- Q: I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?
- RW is partially right you need to check the pressure switch which is the little black or greay box with the wires running in and out.It should say either 20/40 or 30/50 the pressure needs to be 2 pounds less than the lower number.Turn off the water and bleed the tank down then adjust he air with a tire pump and an air gauge
- Q: vw tells me the pump is defective, bad water circulation. i noticed the fans did not turn on when it began to overheat. is that irrelevant with the pump being defective? i even drop the car cold(i started the engine and drove) within 10mins it began to overheat, but the fans did not turn on. is it just the pump? the fan switch is new, no fuses are blown. the radiator and fans are less than 2 yrs old. 2000 jetta
- take the car to another mechanic as it sounds like the VW dealership doesn't know what there talking about.
- Q: I have oil all over my water pump. I investigated when I saw a few drops of oil in the garage that showed up every few days. I then saw a drop of clean radiator fluid. Does oil come near or through the water pump? I have a 96 nissan maxima if that helps.
- STUPID ANSWERS, these answers sound like ****, something a rip off shop would say. 1- buy engine degreaser, and go to the car wash or in the drive if you want to. 2- let the car warm ou, then turn it off and spray the degreaser every where theres oil and dirt. 3- Let stand about 10mins 4- turn the engine back one and use the pressured water (CAR WASH) to wash off the cleaner. You might have to repeat the soaking a few times depending on how long its been leaking. 5- once clean, you can either just let it idle in the drive way or go drive around alittle to see if you can get the oil leak to start again to see where its coming from. Once you find the leak either fix it or just take it to a respectable shop and get a quote for the repair. Dont start assuming that theres a huge problem. It sounds like its just the valve covers, but theres afew possible things that could leak on it. Do this and it will help you find any possible leaks.
- Q: 99 Cherokee I6. There is low pitched noise coming from the area of the water pump and alternator. Like a grinding grumbling. The water pump pulley is not loose and will not rock back and forth. Nothing is leaking. Tomorrow is forecast as icey and I have a choice of sending my wife 30 miles each way to work in the Cherokee or a 2005 Mustang, which is absolutely terrible in the snow or ice. I can get the car into the shop on Thursday for diagnosis and repair. Since the pulley is not loose I am thinking it will be OK for another day even if it is the water pump bearings. Thoughts?
- I continue to be amazed at the poor advice offered on this site. Water pump bearings are sealed and therefore not able to be lubricated. Please do not add oil to your cooling system as you will contaminate your cooling system. While it is true that spraying WD-40 on the pulley will quiet the noise IF IT WAS A BELT NOISE!! And yes it will effect the other pullies since this vehicle most likely has a serpentine belt. If you can, pull the serpentine belt off and spin each pulley to determine which one is making the noise. If it cannot be detected this way, use a long screwdriver or other piece of long, thin metal and place it close to each pulley. this will tell you which one it is. If it is the water pump, or alternator, it will most likely be safe to wait for a couple of days to get it serviced. I would keep the Mustang in the garage and send her in the Jeep. Just don't wait much longer to get it serviced.
- Q: and it still runs about every 1/2 hr even if you are not using water. I have no leaks from the pump thought the house so I think the problem is between the house and the well. I can't hear or see any leaks in the elbows in the well. I tried to pull the foot valve up but can't get it out. I replaced the pump cause it was worn out and it was running every 15 min. Do I need to set the pressure on the new one it cuts off at 42 and on at 20 psi and what else could cause it to run when it shouldn't? I know I should call a plumber, but haven't worked in months and can not afford one.
- Could be the check valve in your holding tank is allowing it to bleed the pressure back into the well thru the pump and once the pressure regulator drops to cut-in press the pump runs. Get a chair and watch the pressure gage.
- Q: When the pump is connected in parallel, will the head and flow change?
- Parallel pump should lift the same head, the flow is the sum of the flow of a single pump.
- Q: The water pump needs to be replaced but now it is taking several attempts to start the car.
- Be carfull with a failing water pump! Correct as the user above has said about bearings.. which can actually end up costing you more than a water pump if left uncehcked. You may also begin to leak antifreeze out of what is called a wheep hole. This will do two things.. lubricate your belt (belt slippage) and one larger issue, if it get blown into your alternator, say goodbye! Alternators and antifreeze do not mix.
- Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
- The first thing I was taught on Volvo water pumps was to use NO sealer. Get yourself a new gasket.Make sure the block is clean. Install the gasket on the two studs. Grease the heater pipe o-ring after installing on the pipe. Grease the hole it fits into. Install the top seal on the water pump and coat the surface with grease. Install the pump on the block and make sure the pipe has entered the pump. Tighten the two nuts until the pump is almost contacting the block but still moves easily. Insert a smaller Phillips head screwdriver into the bottom bolt hole of the pump and into the block. Lift the pump ,using the screwdriver ,until you can start the top bolt.Then use the screwdriver to wiggle the pump to start the left side bolt. Once you have started those two bolts,the bottom one will go right in. Tighten it all up and install the heater pipe bolt and you are done.
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Electric Trash Centrifugal Slurry Sand Pumps
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 500 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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