• CDEC1(replacing H7CN) Super Miniature Electronic Counter System 1
CDEC1(replacing H7CN) Super Miniature Electronic Counter

CDEC1(replacing H7CN) Super Miniature Electronic Counter

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Model & explanation
Main technological data

1.Power supply:Inner power supply.
2.Battery endurance:About 10 years (25℃).
3.Counting range:0-999999 8:0-99999999
4.Min.counting speed:
CDEC1-L 50ms (10 times/s)
CDEC1-H 2.5ms(times/s)
5.Reset mode:Panel button reset (six-position)External terminal reset
6.Ambient temperature for service:(-5~+40℃the state of no freeze)
7.No voltage input:
Max.resistance for contact make:≤10KΩ(Counting ON)
Min.resistance for contact break:≥500KΩ(Counting OFF)
Max.input residual voltage:0.5V
8.Voltage input: L:DC 0V-2V H:DC4V-30V (H is active) (put impedance:≥4.7KΩ
9.Min.reset pulse width:≥0.2s
10.Weight: about 60g
11.Holing size:22.5×45mm


Wiring diagham
Outline dimension & installation size diagram


Q: I have a 24vac about 5 amp transformer that will have leads coming out of it for testing electric circuits. I need to know if there is a component to help me out. If the leads were to touch together it would short out frying my transformer. I need a device that will upon the leads touching will not allow the current to back into the transformer causing a short. I know a fuse accomplishes this but I don't want to keep buying/replacing fuses since they will touch a lot! I'm going to use a resettable circuit breaker for know till I see if there is a better alternative. Thanks!
Whatever reason you may think you have for doing such a thing, stop it. The output of a transformer cannot be safely shorted, even for a fraction of a second. If you do use a circuit breaker, it will do exactly the same thing as a fuse, except that the circuit breaker should not burn out. If you persist, you will eventually burn the transformer out.
Q: I know you can clean a car engine by hosing it down, but I've heard you can't drive your car for a while after? Maybe because if the water evaporates too fast it will cause complications? I don't know. Also, if you can hose the engine down, what parts of the engine must stay dry. I know the intake has to, and the battery.
oven purifier will east up the coating of the wires. thats effective stuff, itll decrease via to oil on the wires and shop going! your engine became no longer made to shield concentrated corrosion like that. next time basically purchase the gunk engine purifier its like 4 dollars for quite an excellent can of the stuff!
Q: I turned the key once for the electrical components and it worked for a split second then it went dead. Then I tried to jump start it and nothing happened, no clicking or anything. just dead. Then, when I unhooked the jumper cables, there were sparks from the jumper cables which would indicate that the battery isn't dead.
HAVE U CHECKED YOU ALTERNATOR WIREING IT MY JUST BE YOUR ALTERNATER IT MY NOT BE CHARGING OR YOU CAN CHECK YOU FUSE BOX AND SEE IF ANY ARE BLOWN OUT SOME TIME THE CARS LOCK UP WITH THE COUSE OF THE STUPIDEST FUSE LOOK UP YOUTUBE CAR BATT PROBLEMS
Q: I was plugging in my USB TV adapter with cable tv and it shorted out instantly. Visible sparks. It did not damage any components in fact the tv adapter still works, however it did blow a fuse after a long enough connection. Is there anything in particular that I should look for that would cause this problem?
Theres too much power going into the fuse. Try plugging it in to a different fuse to see if it blows that one also.
Q: After putting in a new stereo, my instrument panel lights will not come on. All the maintenance lights will turn on upon starting the car, but once started, I cannot see the speedometer or any of that stuff. The lights for the heat/AC knobs won't illuminate either. The 12volt does light up, as does the stock clock and the new stereo. I am not sure if there is a fuse for this, I looked through the manual and found nothing to indicate that there would be. I have checked the dimmer dial to make sure it's all the way on. Nothing was unplugged other than the stereo components so I'm not sure what happened. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
double check your stereo wiring. and check fuses.
Q: I am unable to locate the fuse that feeds the components mounted on the rear hatch (including the wiper, door lock, and keyless entry receiver). The service manual has no designated fuse. I would appreciate any help in solving this issue. Thanks.
in side of fuse cover should show full lay out of same look on inside of cover plate
Q: A friend of mine accidentally bridged two wires, one with juice, one grounded, that ran to the glove compartment on my '92 deville. I can't tell what they went to, as my glove compartment is gone, just hanging wires. The wires in question were purple and black, and the three options for what they may have been are the compartment lights, the gas door opener, or the trunk latch opener.When he bridged the two wires, I (sitting in the drivers seat) heard a loud pop that came from in front of me, underneath the steering wheel somewhere, and when I turned on the car, my start-up ding noises were notably sharper, and simultaneously weaker, like something had been blown. The radio display lights were inoperable, and while I did get static upon turning on the radio, my antenna would no longer extend. Do these things share a common circuit, and would short-circuiting something from the glove compartment cause me to blow a fuse, or is it possible that all of these components are permanently well blown?
fuses are meant stop anything thats powered to be blown, check all your fuses and i'm betting a number 15 is blown.
Q: Convergence is at its proper crossed white lines.Convergence resistors and pico fuses maybe?Any help would be appreciated.Thanks
If it had bad fuses the cross would be misaligned. If you move the red and blue up and down and the whole picture moves (the red and blue part) then I suspect a vertical deflection problem. This could be the output ic, the jungle ic, or associated component and connections. The only way to find out is with an 0-scope in a shop.
Q: 1997 Chrysler Sebring w/2.5L V6.Customer complaint: Blows 20A ASD fuse - sometimes twice in one day, other times runs fine for more than a week.I can duplicate the problem about every 4-5 minutes. I have installed an amp meter in the ASD fuse socket - when I jerk the throttle open the meter will pin to 40+ amps (very intermittant. It might take several times to duplicate.) It quickly returns to the normal 3-5 amp draw - often quickly enough that it doesn't even trip a 20A circuit breaker in series with the amp meter (but instantly blows the fuse if it is inserted)Unfortunately, more often than not, the circuit breaker will trip.I am at my wits end on this one. I have checked and rechecked the wiring and components associated with the ASD relay feeds. Obviously - I'm missing the problem!Any tips would be greatly appreciated - Thanks.
Why don't you do a amp test on the fuel pump circuit and keep in mind that if a fuse blows black inside that indicates a short. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I'd try supplying the ASD circuit with a whole new ground and then see what occurs bec I still believe that its a wiring issue or bad ground or bad connection etc. Rick is right bec the PCM does monitor and control the ASD relay circuit but even the PCM could have a bad ground so check the grounds.
Q: E.C.M. stands for electronic control modal
Checking fuses is fine - probing the electronic module wires with a test light can easily short out an internal component.

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