DIN Standard Horizontal End Suction Water Pump

DIN Standard Horizontal End Suction Water Pump System 1

DIN Standard Horizontal End Suction Water Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 10000 set/month

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End Suction Centrifugal Pump

1.Structure of End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of the End Suction Water Pump

• very easy to be installed and maintained

•Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.End Suction Water Pump Specification

4.Picture of End Suction Pump

5.FAQ

① What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

② Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

Q: When replacing the water pump in a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan. Old one is loose, I'm about to lower the engine a little to get the water pump out. Before putting the new one on, do I have to do anything with the timing belt/chain?: Depends on the engine size . If the pump is driven by the timing belt then yes , if the pump is driven by the serpentine belt then no .

Q: I replaced the water pump on my 350 chevy small block and the thing is leaking out of the lower bolt hole on the passenger side. I was told to remove the bolt and coat it with permatex hi tack gasket sealer and reinstall it. Any how I'm wondering why there would be a leak there in the first place, any ideas?: my first response is, you used a wrong gasket or you mucked up the gasket when you installed it. Then i think of maybe the water pump casting cracked when you tightened the bolt. ( but not likely) . I guess you could try the sealer thing. but you could test it to see if it leaking from under the bolt head. The way you could do that is put a soft washer , like copper washer under the bolt head and put the bolt back in. the soft copper washer will make a water tight seal. if it were me , i would remove the pump and find out what the hay is wrong . i have replaced at least 6 water pumps on my own chevys, and have never had that problem.

Q: changed the thermostat. it overheats but cools down a heat bar or two idling at stoplights. i filled up the coolant reservoir when i changed the thermostat, drove it about 2 miles(engine was already up to temp when i started) and it overheated. drove it two miles back going about 35-40 and it never went above normal but was still overheating. checked the reservoir and it was empty. stuffed a hose in it and plugged it up with a towel to force water in to see if it was leaking anywhere, no leaks. while running with the rpms up the top hose is easy to squeeze. makes me think water pump. but if i go over 45 it over heats makes me think clutch fan.: So if i understand, you are losing water from your system but no evidence of where it is going. I can think of two options. Heater core, but you may get a coolant smell inside the car, steam on the interior of windshield. You can check this by connecting the heater hoses directly, bypassing the heater core. If it still loses water, look for foamy oil on the dipstick or on the oil filler cap. If present then the other guy is right - headgasket. I would also look into flushing the system, or replacing the radiator - it may be clogged.

Q: 1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :): You could have a pulley that is bent or out of balance. Maybe your cooling system needs to be flushed and its putting a little extra load on the pump. You can check the temperature with an infra red thermometer to tell what the actual temperature of your engine is, then you'll know if your gage is accurate.

Q: There is no water at all! What can we do to troubleshoot this before calling a Plumber? This is the first time this has happened and we never had a well before. Please help (serious answers only): You can rule out the thermostat. If you have no water at all the thermostat has no control over water pressure. The water heater also has no control over water flow, other than what comes from the water heater to the faucet. If you have no water at all that would indicate one of two things. The pump isn't pumping or the well has gone dry. Hopefully it's the pump. Your best option is to call a plumber as much as you don't want to. On the pump is an on off switch that could possibly have shut off due to a power surge. You should be able to flip this switch and get things back to normal if that is the problem. Also, once when I had no water and didn't know what to do about it I called a friend who did. The problem was no more than a loose wire on the pump. Reconnecting the wire made all the difference and saved a huge plumber's bill. You might go online and with the name and serial number of the pump find the on off switch and any other description of any parts. Hope this helps.

Q: Was able to remove all bolts except the one in the rear of engine one of the bigger bolts the pulley from the serpentine belt blocks itdoes the pulley need to be removed and if yes then how: Sometimes there are holes in the pulley and you can rotate it until the hole gives you access to the bolt. If there are no such holes, then you will probably have to remove the pulley. The pulley may be fastened with one, four, or zero bolts. If there are bolts for the pulley, remove them and proceed with common sense and use a puller if necessary. If there are zero bolts holding the pulley to the water pump, then it is pressed on and you will need to remove it with a specialty tool called a pulley puller which you can get as a loaner or cheap rental at many auto parts stores. The pulley must also be reinstalled with a pulley installer, also available as a loaner or cheap rental. Are you replacing the water pump or just removing it to do other work? If you look at a new one and it doesn't come with a pulley on it, then you know that the pulley must be removed to go on the new pump no matter what.

Q: I'm having problems with my washer not filling, instead water is going directly out the drain. i want to see if something could be stuck in the pump. I have never looked at one before so I am not exactly sure what to look for. If you'd like you can see my previous post regarding this issue iv'e been dealing with all day. I dont have the money to hire a professional so I am trying like heck to figure it out myself.Thanks: Sounds like the pump is operating during the fill cycle. if there is something clogging the pump, you wouldn't be losing water, it would never drain.

Q: It is used in a water pumping station.: This Site Might Help You. RE: What is a submersible pump and how does it work? It is used in a water pumping station.

Q: 2004 chevy impala 3.4 v6 The small leak is right behind the pulley of the water pump. Car is not overheating .the leak is only for a little while then it stops . water pump seems to be working fine but the leak ,what could it be ?: Unfortunately, this quite often requires a new pump. It can be feasible (however not going) that the gasket is leaking - extra probably, the seal around the pulley shaft is the hindrance. Substitute is the one choice. Almost always, that is done while because the timing belt - has this been executed yet? If it was once executed before you obtained the car, its viable they tried to save lots of a few bucks via skipping the water pump. This is in most cases a foul move - the pump as a rule wears out at in regards to the same time - but it's cheaper, if they have been planning on getting rid of the car quickly. And when you consider that one quite often needs to be removed to access the other...You get the thought. Excellent success!

Q: 94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks: Die and tap the bolts and holes you might be getting false torque measurements. take a straight edge to your new pump, It could be fuggered right out of the box.

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