Diesel Engine Horizontal Centrifugal Corrosion Protection ISO Standard Slurry Pump

Diesel Engine Horizontal Centrifugal Corrosion Protection ISO Standard Slurry Pump

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Diesel Engine Horizontal Centrifugal Corrosion Protection ISO Standard Slurry Pump

ZJ series centrifugal slurry pumps suitable for handling abrasive and corrosive mine slurry with

maximum concentrations of wt.45%(ash) and wt.60%(ore).They are widely used in power ,

metallurgy, ming ,coal and construction materials.The ZJ series centrifugal slurry pumps can be

operated in series according to requirements of users .

Performance table of centrifugal slurry pumps of ZJ type

Type	Q	H	n	η
	Flux	head	Speed	Efficiency	(NPSH)r
	(m³/h)	(m)	(r/min)	(%)	(m)
40ZJ-I-A19	8-50	9-57.1	1400-2900	50	1.3-4.5
80ZJ-I-A52	40-242	15-109	980-1480	66	2.3-4
100ZJ-I-A50	64-360	24-100	980-1480	68	2.3-5.1
200ZJ-I-A85	300-900	36-130	730-980	75	2.5-4.3
300ZJ-I-A95	700-1800	30-70	490-980	78	1.7-7.0
350ZJ-I-F100	860-1300	37-62	490-590	60	4.4-5.8

AH centrifugal slurry pumps are horizontal centrifugal pumps that are suit for metallurgy ,mine,coal,

electric power and bulding materials to transport slurry with stong corrosion and high concentration.

The centrifugal slurry pumps can be also used by multistage in series.The slurry body has changeable metal

lined , rubber lined or ceramic lined .The impeller is made of antifrictionmetal or rubber.

Shaft glands of AH slurry pumps can adopt packing seal or centrifugal seal.Positong of opening

in the pump can be spaced 45° angle,turn eight different angles for installation

Performance table of centrifugal slurry pumps of AH type

Type	Flux	Head	Speed	Max. Power
1.5/1 AH	12.6-28	6-68	1200-3800	15
3/2 AH	36-136.8	12-87	850-2700	60
4/3 AH	79.2-252	5-97	600-2200	120
6/4 AH	162-1008	40-280	500-1600	560
8/6 AH	360-1228	7-95	400-1140	1200
10/8 AH	640-1368	10-66	400-1100	560
12/10 AH	720-1980	7-68	300-800	560
14/12 AH	1152-2772	13-63	300-500	560
16/14 AH	1368-3798	11-75	250-550	1200
18/16 AH	1260-5040	8-66	200-400	1200
20/18 AH	2520-5400	13-57	200-500	1200

FAQ

1 If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

2 Do you have pumps with grinders?

Yes, the WQ models.

3 How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

Q: I need a water pump for a 1930 Chrysler Roadster and have no idea where to get one. Any suggestions?: try JC Whitney

Q: Does the water pump pump the coolant into the engine or pump it out?: The automobile water pump pumps the coolant into the engineThe effect of the water pump is used for cooling the engine; it is the coolant pump in the water tank into the engine of the channel, when the engine temperature is about 93-98 of the body's arrival, the thermostat engine open, cooling fluid from the thermostat back into the tank....

Q: I suddenly have this rattle noise whenever the engine is running but it diminishes with speed. It almost sounds like spark knock but spark knock would get worse at speed. It could be the water pump. Would a water pump get louder with speed, or go away as this does? I feel a tiny bit of in-out motion in the shaft but not side to side. Car is a Geo Metro and does have hydraulic lifters.: sounds like a pulley or bearing noise

Q: it's not doing anything. about a month ago, i changed the pressure switch because it the water just suddenly stopped (like now), and after changing it, it worked again. I did noticed that after changing the pressure switch, it was tripping a lot (the pressure switch). when the water pump stopped again (this time), i went a bought another pressure switch thinking that it was the same problem, but this time it didn't solve the problem. Came to find out later, that the pressure switch that i had changed about a month ago, it was wired incorrectly - maybe that's why it was tripping a lot? so i did wired this one correctly, but still didn't work. Did i burned the pump? another note here is that it has been less than a year that i changed the water pump. My question is, what could the problem be this time? did i burned the pump because i wired the pressure switch incorrectly? any suggestion, please email me thanks!: Easiest way to tell is to bypass the pressure switch and connect the pump motor wire directly to incoming power and manually run the pump until you reach shut off pressure... use your circuit breaker to do this.. My guess is that when you wired it the wrong the first time you forced the pump to shut off by way of an overload protector on the motor and either the protector is bad now or the motor is

Q: Home water well is artesian, to holding tank. I am needing to replace my pump yearly. Inside of the pump is rusted, this causing a real loud whining sound before failure. Pump motor isn't failing, the inside of the pump ends up freezing loosing the ability to spin.Any suggestions as to why?: that's a vague description of the pump. theres several types of pumps too. you need to either shield the pump, or move it to a different location, so its nots moist and damp all the time. drop a sand point down to the well, seal the well from the pump , or buy a different type. call a well service and ask them your options. good luck man! gee, that must get expensive.

Q: I have a 2000 Ford Focus with 82k miles on it. The car is leaking coolant intermittently. The radiator was replaced about 3 yrs ago. The car doesn't overheat but when I turn it off I can hear a boiling sound and it smells like something is burning. It's not a strong smell but it's there. The car also idles rough and downright shakes at times. Also, and I know this sounds crazy, when I'm driving it I hear a sort of whooshing noise that sounds like water. Could this be the water pump or something more serious? I'm taking it to the mechanic tomorrow but would like an idea as to what could be wrong.: There are airpockets in the cooling system. You hear gurgling in the heater core as water, steam and air bubble through it. What a mess and it's only a 2000. If you have the water pump checked for leaking, that could be where the coolant is escaping. If the car overheated, this situation could be more serious than just having to replace coolant. Some damage may have come from when you had to replace the radiator.You might have a warped or cracked cylinder head. There are several things to do to try and dfiagnose how bad this problem is. One it to bleed the cooling system of air and watch to make sure coolant loss has ceased. Another is to use an emission probe at the opening of the radiator to see if combustion products are getting into the cooling system. The water pump shouldn't be leaking already, but the quality of the part could be questionable and it might indeed be leaking and need replacing. A good shop can do all this, but it takes time and the cost can build up with the seriousness of the situation. Budget for up to $2000, but repairs might only cost a few hundred, depending on what's wrong.

Q: Cant get the bolt loose fromthe fan that is attached to the water pump in my ford ranger. need to remove bolt in order to remove water pump.: You take a wrench that will fit behind the fan, and knock with a hammer on the wrench to break the nut loose. You turn the nut to loosen it the same way the fan turns when the engine is running

Q: 2004 chevy impala 3.4 v6 The small leak is right behind the pulley of the water pump. Car is not overheating .the leak is only for a little while then it stops . water pump seems to be working fine but the leak ,what could it be ?: water pump seal is bad. it will get worse. just replace the water pump now and save yourself future problems. like losing all your water and over heating your engine. you need a new water pump.

Q: I want to run 1 HP, 220 v, single phase water pump on solar panels without using any batteries. what do I need to do so amp; how do I wire it?: Hey R, if you have an existing pump you are trying to run that is designed for 220 AC, I would suggest going with the battery and inverter, but either way it will take about 1200 watts of solar. With no battery, the panels need to provide for the surge power to start up the pump, so now you're looking at at least 2000 watts of panel. Then as Caoedhen pointed out, one cloud goes by, it shuts down then starts again, this is not good for pump longevity, so you'll be spending more on replacement parts too. If you don't have the pump yet, and you want to go solar, I would use a slow DC pump, they make them strictly for solar panel operation, no batteries or special controllers. Windy Dankoff probably is the expert, do a google search for DC slow pumps, or look for Windy's website. Then you can get by with a lot less panel, and a better pump for them, plus no batteries. Take care, Rudydoo

Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?: Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.

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