Diesel Engine Fuel Horizontal Centrifugal Non-Clog Slurry Pump

Diesel Engine Fuel Horizontal Centrifugal Non-Clog Slurry Pump System 1

Diesel Engine Fuel Horizontal Centrifugal Non-Clog Slurry Pump

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Power plant Usage Diesel Engine Fuel Horizontal Centrifugal Non-Clog Slurry Pump

Product Description

ZJ series centrifugal slurry pump suitable for handling abrasive and corrosive mine slurry with

maximum concentrations of wt.45%(ash) and wt.60%(ore).They are widely used in power ,

metallurgy, ming ,coal and construction materials.The ZJ series centrifugal slurry pump can be

operated in series according to requirements of users .

Performance table of centrifugal slurry pump of ZJ type

Type	Q	H	n	η
	Flux	head	Speed	Efficiency	(NPSH)r
	(m³/h)	(m)	(r/min)	(%)	(m)
40ZJ-I-A19	8-50	9-57.1	1400-2900	50	1.3-4.5
80ZJ-I-A52	40-242	15-109	980-1480	66	2.3-4
100ZJ-I-A50	64-360	24-100	980-1480	68	2.3-5.1
200ZJ-I-A85	300-900	36-130	730-980	75	2.5-4.3
300ZJ-I-A95	700-1800	30-70	490-980	78	1.7-7.0
350ZJ-I-F100	860-1300	37-62	490-590	60	4.4-5.8

Note :The form is for clean water performance .Particular case ,contact the supplier.

AH centrifugal slurry pump are horizontal centrifugal pump that are suit for metallurgy ,mine,coal,

electric power and bulding materials to transport slurry with stong corrosion and high concentration.

The centrifugal slurry pump can be also used by multistage in series.The slurry body has changeable metal

lined , rubber lined or ceramic lined .The impeller is made of antifrictionmetal or rubber.

Shaft glands of AH slurry pump can adopt packing seal or centrifugal seal.Positong of opening

in the pump can be spaced 45° angle,turn eight different angles for installation

Performance table of centrifugal slurry pump of AH type

Type	Flux	Head	Speed	Max. Power
1.5/1 AH	12.6-28	6-68	1200-3800	15
3/2 AH	36-136.8	12-87	850-2700	60
4/3 AH	79.2-252	5-97	600-2200	120
6/4 AH	162-1008	40-280	500-1600	560
8/6 AH	360-1228	7-95	400-1140	1200
10/8 AH	640-1368	10-66	400-1100	560
12/10 AH	720-1980	7-68	300-800	560
14/12 AH	1152-2772	13-63	300-500	560
16/14 AH	1368-3798	11-75	250-550	1200
18/16 AH	1260-5040	8-66	200-400	1200
20/18 AH	2520-5400	13-57	200-500	1200

Q: I have never had to deal with this and I am probably worrying about nothing but every time I run water, even for a second, the pump starts clicking on and off. Is it supposed to do it with every little thing? Every time the toilet flushes, or the water gets turned on to wash hands it goes off and keeps constantly going off until the water is shut off. Is this what it's supposed to do?: It sounds like your pressure tank has gone bad. Your pump in (short cycling). The blue or silver tank that you have with the pump may or may not have a bladder inside. That bladder is to keep pressure in the line so the pump does not start so often. There is water on one side and air on the other. Sometimes there may not be enough air pressure on the air side. This usually means that the bladder has failed. It also could be that the pressure switch has gone bad or that the low pressure point setting(pump on) and the high pressure point setting (pump off) are set to close together. You will need to have a plumber check this out as soon as possible. If the pump continues to short cycle it will burn the pump out. Good luck.

Q: Pump impeller diameter plus assembly what changes? What's the effect on the motor?: 1., the larger the diameter of the impeller, the greater the head, the greater the flow rate, because the flow of water depends on the speed of rotation of the impeller generated by the centrifugal force and the line speed on the tangent, the greater the diameter, the centrifugal force and the greater the speed of the line. The relationship between the centrifugal pump water delivery and the vacuum degree is that the centrifugal pump is the centrifugal force principle to complete pumping. Without water, the time and space turn will burn out the equipment.2., the head and impeller diameter is related, the larger the impeller, the greater the head, and vice versa. The flow rate has little to do with the impeller diameter. Under the rated conditions, the greater the head, the smaller the flow rate, inversely proportional.

Q: Assuming that my water pump standard flow is 20m3/h, tolerance value requirements is + 8%, then is not traffic 22m3/h is not qualified?: Tolerance coefficient is due in the manufacturing process, will, so each pump products are possible shapes and sizes do not conform to the pattern of the situation, and ensure the test results in the value (operating point) when compared, should be allowed to have a certain tolerance. It should be noted that these tolerances are only relevant to the actual pump and do not involve test conditions and measurement uncertainties. If the pump at a certain working point (the same lift) standard (Design) flow of 20m3/h, the actual flow of 22m3/h, indicating that the pump in the design process has unreasonable place, resulting in waste of power. Deviations from the manufacturing process usually have no positive deviation.A pump is a machine that transports liquids or pumps liquids. It will be the prime mover of the mechanical energy or other external energy transfer to the liquid, the liquid energy increase, mainly used to transport liquids including water, oil, alkali liquid, emulsion, suspension emulsion and liquid metal, but also transport liquid, gas mixtures and liquids containing suspended solids. Pump performance of technical parameters are flow, suction, lift, shaft power, water power, efficiency, etc.; according to the different principles of work can be divided into volume pumps, vane pumps and other types. Displacement pump is to use its studio volume changes to transfer energy; vane pump is to use the rotating blade and water interaction to transfer energy, there are centrifugal pumps, axial flow pumps and mixed flow pumps and other types.

Q: When we turn our water on in the house it will run for a while and then shut off.. It has been coming back on after 5 0r 6 mins.it used to do this about once a week but now it does it every day we don't mess with any breakers because they don't get triped . We are on well and this well is about 7 yrs old anyone have an idea what could be the problem .. If any more info is needed I can reply..: ANY extra info is a plus. Well size and construction, depth, water level, production test results, and pumping apparatus, all help in troubleshooting problems. The two most likely things I can think of that would make your water pressure act the way it does are as follows. My first guess is that your pump is capable of pumping more water than the well will produce, thus drawing the level of water in the well down to a point where the pump catches some air and quits pumping. The pump continues to turn and when enough water comes into the well to cover the pump, it's starts to pump water again. Second guess is that you have a thermal overload tripping and when enough time goes by, it resets and turns the pump on again. Overloads often trip when you have a low voltage situation at the motor. You can get low voltage form bad connections @ splices or the contacts of the pressure switch. Most well water systems go a long time between maintenence calls, especially at first when EVERYTHING is new. My advise would be to call the contractor that drilled the well and installed the pumping equipment. Hopefully they are one and the same. The contractor knows the original conditions and all equipment used, even the stuff you can't see. Because the system is relatively new, the original contractor MAY be inclined to cut you a deal on repairs. We don't know how long this problem has existed, but perhaps the system really wasn't up to par right from the start. Good luck. When you talk to the contractor, try not to sound to accusatory. He may have done his best with the geologic and economic set of conditions he was given. Nobody can make gold out of lead.

Q: I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.: Im guessing you have the 3.4 liter engine. You will need to remove the pulley bolts first 10mm, then pull off the pulley and the belt. there should be a few 10mm bolts holding the water pump on, remove them and scrape off the old gasket with a scraper and then clean the rest up with some fine grit sandpaper. Don't scrub one area for too long because the surface is soft aluminum. you will need to spray some brake clean on a rag and clean up the surface so there is no coolant or dirt on it. Now put the new gasket on the new pump and put a thin layer of silicone on the side of the gasket that is going to mate with the engine block. Do not put silicone on both sides of the gasket. Make sure to note wich way you took the old pump out because it only goes in one way and torque down the bolts so they are snug, don't overtorque or you will strip the aluminum. Now you will need a half inch rachet to pull back the belt tensioner to be able to put the belt back on. There should be a picture of how the belt is routed somewhere under the hood. Don't forget to buy Dexcool (Red Antifreeze) Make sure you don't mix it with the green antifreeze. Good Luck

Q: I replaced the water pump on my 350 chevy small block with a new water pump and the thing is leaking out of the lower bolt hole on the passenger side. I was told to remove the bolt and coat it with permatex hi tack gasket sealer and reinstall it Any how I'm wondering why there would be a leak there in the first place, any ideas?: i would try getting a new gasket and make sure you seal it really good and make sure the bolts are tightened really good

Q: I have a fairly new jetted tub. I stupidly used bubble bath 2 days before and have since read that it is not good, but just because of the amount of bubbles, not that it will actually harm the system. The electrical circuit is not tripped. I hear this clicking but the pump doesn't turn on. Any ideas? Do I need a new pump?: Also may want to check inside the access door underneath some have a cord plugged into a GFI receptacle that may be tripped. May want to check it just in case.

Q: What is the average life of a water pump in a car?: to many factors to consider such as: materials used for pump, pump design, the engine operator's driving habits. You could have had the wrong belt put on and that would effect pump life. There are just to many variables. I'd say over 60,000 easy. Most pumps come with LLT Warranties b/c you should only have to replace one once.

Q: What is the influence of the speed of the pump motor on the pump?: Influence the parameters of pump flow and lift.

Q: I have coolant leaking out and i'm pretty sure now that it is the water pump. Question can water pumps leak even if the cars not running?Like a steady drip every two seconds? Forming a decent puddle after awhile, but when running the pump is'nt making any abnormal noises is that normal? Is there other clues to positively know the pump is bad? I cant believe how hard a job it looks like it would be to replace it there is no room! Anybody with some helpful how to's? how about an estimate on how much a shop would charge to do it?: Put a jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 between the pan and the jack face. You will have to take the serpentine belt loose, the idler is below the power steering pump, and then support the engine on the jack and remove the passenger side motor mount. There is an aluminium L-shaped bracket to remove and then a cast iron piece with 4 bolts holding it to the engine. Remove also the alternator, as it will get in the way. Once the motor mount is out you can remove the serpentine belt. Now you will need to remove the bolts holding the stamped serpentine pulley to the water pump, I believe there are 4 of them and I think they are 8 mm. You cannot, however, take the pulley out until the water pump is off. So now you have to take the bolts out of the water pump and pull it out, clean the mating surface for the new pump, and reinstall, just make sure to put the serpentine pulley over the water pump before you try to put the pump back in. On a side note, before you go apeshit with all of this, pull the iginition module and coil pack mounting bracket off the front of the engine and check the bypass hose to see if it has a hole in it before you go right to the water pump. I had this go on the wife's car, and overzealous idiot that I am, I just assumed it was a water pump. Several hours, busted knuckles, and beers later, I discovered that it was a bad hose that cost me 6 bucks and took 15 minutes to install, not the 40 dollar water pump.

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