Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 200 unit/month
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1. Applications of Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
1> For water supply from wells or reservoirs.
2> For domestic use,for civil and industrial applications.
3> For garden use and irrigation.
2. Operating conditions of Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
1> Maximum fluid temperature up to +35°C.
2> Maximum sand content: 0.3%.
3> Maximum immersion: 100m.
4> Minimum well diameter: 4".
3. Specification of Motor for Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
Three-phase:380-415V/50HZ
Single-phase:220-240V/50HZ
Equip with special start-up control box.
Internal diameter of outlet; 1.25".1.5".2"
Special features available:
1> Other voltages are acceptable.
2> Frequency 60Hz.
3> Other mechanical seal.
4> Equip with Auto-control box.
4. Description of Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
Warranty: 1 years.
(according to our general sales conditions)
Components: Material:
Pump external casing AISI 304 ss
Delivery casing Cast-Cu ASTM280
Suction lantern Cast-Cu ASTM280
Diffuser Plastic.PC
Impeller Plastic.POM
Motor external casing AISI 304ss
Top cover 1.Cast-Cu ASTM280. 2.Cast iron G20 UNI5007
Bottom support AISI 304 ss
Mechanical seal Special seal for deep well(carbon-SIC/TC)
Bearing NSK(Japan)
5. FAQ
1>. Can I get trained on CNBM products?
Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
2>. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
3>. How long is your warranty?
Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.
4> Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors
Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.
5> Are your pumps protected against dry running?
No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
6> How can I get trained on CNBM products?
Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
- Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?
- It sounds like you have two pressure tanks. I am going to guess that the one under your pump probably went out and instead of taking it out and re-plumbing everything they just spliced in a new tank. You can get a re-build kit for most pumps but it sound like your pump is pretty old and probably being held together with faith and rust and taking it apart might cause more problems. What I would do is price out what the re-build cost and what labor might be against what a new system might be. If you decide to go with a new system I would suggest looking into getting a submersible pump, using the same tank but making sure it is in a good location and plumbed with a union. when your pressure tank finally goes out it is going to weigh a ton and trying to move it around plumbing can be difficult. good luck and happy holidays.
- Q: What are the categories of pumps?
- First, select the pump to meet the requirements of the headThe so-called head refers to the required lift, and not lift the water height, clear this point, the choice of water pumps is particularly important. Pump lift is about 1.15 to 1.20 times the height of lifting water. If the vertical height of a water source to the water is 20 meters, the required lift is about 23~24 meters. When selecting a pump, the pump head should be close to the required head, and the general deviation is not more than 20%. In this case, the efficiency of the pump is the highest, and it is more energy efficient, and the use will be more economical. If the lift on the nameplate is much smaller than the required lift, the pump can not meet the needs of users, even if the water can be pumped, the water is also very poor. But in turn, the high lift pump for low head, there will be heavy traffic, resulting in motor overload, if long time operation, the motor temperature, the winding insulation layer will gradually aging, and even burning motor.Two, select the appropriate flow pumpWater pump flow, that is, the amount of water is generally not too large election, otherwise it will increase the cost of water pumps. Should be selected as needed, such as the use of the user's family self-priming pump, the flow should be chosen as small as possible; if users use the submersible pump irrigation, you can properly select a larger flow.
- Q: 2 inches of water pump is generally equipped with high-power motors
- Clean water pump 5.5 kw
- Q: The plumber has disappeared on us with 99% of the job done. Our new basement remodel has baseboard heating installed, a water pump attached to the furnace/boiler, but no heat downstairs because their is no thermostat. I haven't checked to see if he did any wiring. (Wouldn't that be an electrician's job?) I've ordered a wireless thermostat kit, and I'm assuming installation instructions for the base are included, but it hasn't arrived yet. What should I do to get that pump pumping hot water to keep us nice and cozy?
- That part in the picture is a high limit control with manual reset. It has nothing to do with the pump. You will need more than a thermostat to control the added pump. When you have more than one pump the system is zoned .You need a switching relay panel (Taco SR502) that not only turns on the pump , but also the burner. There is a lot to know here and it's best left to a heating contractor.
- Q: My radiator light came on this morning i was running late for work so i topped it off with water (about twice a year the light comes on, it has only ever had to be topped off) and after about 20 minutes of driving it started to heat up, so i pulled over shut it offsomebody stopped checked the temp of the water in the reservoir, said it felt to only be about 100 degrees, but topped it off with more water. the gauge dropped right back down to being almost as cold as when you first drive it, but after about 2 miles it was right back up near the red line.I pulled over again there was steam coming off the engine. I stuck my finger in the water it felt warm, but nowhere near hot. I couldn't get it cool enough to finish driving to work. Does this sound like the water pump?If so, how long should this take a decent mechanic to replace?If not, what else could it be?
- sounds like u have air trapped somewhere or a flow problem water pump not pumping or thermostat not opening do not keep driving it b/c further costly damage can occur this shouldn't take more than a day for a good mechanic
- Q: how much would they charge me to change a water pump on my 1999 cadillac deville
- well.... if the fuel was pumping before it ran out of gas, it probably pumps still... the pump wont stop pumping just because it ran out of gas.. but... if you do run out of gas, you WILL get AIR in the lines, and it COULD keep the car from starting because of a bubble somewhere in the lines that won't allow fuel to pass. hard to explain. Diesels have this problem a lot more than EFI cars do, but it can still be an issue. try going out there and turning the key on and off about a dozen times, but not trying to START the car.. every time you turn the key, you should hear a mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm sound from the back of the car. that's your FUEL PUMP priming. if you DONT hear the humming sound (which does stop after about 2 seconds) then your fuel pump isn't working. let it prime a few times. when there is too much pressure, a separate line pushes fuel back to the tank.. it SHOULDNT be that big of a problem, but i'm not sure about that exact car.. i have a feeling it's a northstar v8 or something, and those are notorious for sucking donkey nuts.
- Q: I have a cabin cruiser and I recently took it out of storage and had it de winterized. Now everything seems to work except for the fresh water pump for the sink, shower and toilet. Does this type of pump need to be primed? If so how do you prime it? Thank you for the help.
- most likely the pressure switch is stuck/corroded. this is a common problem with on demand type pumps.try tapping on the pressure switch to see if it will work.if the pump is installed properly,the motor should be at the top and the pump and switch will be at the bottom.i consider these pumps disposable. expect to replace it every couple of years.
- Q: My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
- if you have no fan activity, it will get hot at low speeds and at a stop position.
- Q: I am leaking antifreeze, but only when the car is sitting after it has been running for a while, and its quite frustrating..it's coming around where the hoses are, I just got the thermostat/thermostat housing replaced, and also the heater hose and it seems to be coming from the same general area AS those...My car doesn't leak all the time it seems, so I'm not sure what this could mean. It has not over heated, my ac isn't also working at all.I have taken it back to the mechanic two times in the last 2 days and they cannot determine it's having a leak or not..which is quite ridiculous!! It seems to them that they think I'm crazy or something, I just don't like to see antifreeze underneath my car, I mean who does? Does this sound like a water pump? Where exactly is the waterpump located?
- The reason it leaks after it's parked is because that's when the pressure is built up so it leaks. A/c not blowing cold air. is sometimes a sign of water pump. The water pump is located where your belt is. drive the car around for about 20-25 mins needs to get warmed up and build up pressure in the system then park the car but leave engine running and look around that area and check all hoses and hose clamps.
- Q: my 98 expedition keeps over heating, i replaced the water pump, thermostat,coolant. it will be fine one minute then it overheats. weather im on the road or sitting at a light. i also replaced the fan clutch. thanks!
- If you have the 5.4L motor it will have a plastic intake manifold. Look at the front. There is an aluminum crossover pipe attached to the front on the top. Those are famous for leaking aroung where the intake meets the head and where the aluminum and plastic meet. You may need a flashlight and a small inspection mirror to check all the way around. Also if the valley or apace between the heads has coolant sitting in it that's a good bet you have a leaking crossover or a head temp sensor leaking. The head temp sensors are located at the back of the heads. The other common spot for coolant to leak is the heater hoses be sure to check at all the fittings and make sure they haven't come apart up by the firewall. One last thing to check is the belt around the water pump pulley. It is easy to put it on so the water pump spins the wrong way. Common mistake. Lastly if the manifold IS leaking do NOT attempt to do this if you do not have a top notch torque wrench!!! You can very easily strip the bolts or holes that are in the heads. If you are not sure take it to a good technician. Dorman makes a good replacement manifold for about 200-300 bucks. The gaskets are made onto it. I have had no issues with that one leaking. Also do not try to relpace just the crossover... I know that it has bolts and they sell gaskets but it will leak. If the manifold needs to come off it is also a great time to change the plugs. They will be super easy at that point, be sure to use new Injector o-rings too. Hope that helps. Jim
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Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 200 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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