• Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps System 1
  • Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps System 2
  • Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps System 3
Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
200 unit/month

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1. Applications of Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
1> For water supply from wells or reservoirs.
2> For domestic use,for civil and industrial applications.
3> For garden use and irrigation. 

2. Operating conditions of Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
1> Maximum fluid temperature up to +35°C.
2> Maximum sand content: 0.3%.
3> Maximum immersion: 100m.    
4> Minimum well diameter: 4".    

3. Specification of Motor for Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:
Three-phase:380-415V/50HZ    
Single-phase:220-240V/50HZ     
Equip with special start-up control box.
Internal diameter of outlet
 1.25".1.5".2"
Special features available:
1> Other voltages are acceptable.
2> Frequency 60Hz.
3> Other mechanical seal.
4> Equip with Auto-control box.

4. Description of Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps:

Warranty: 1 years.
(according to our general sales conditions)  

Components:                                                         Material:

Pump external casing                                          AISI 304 ss

Delivery casing                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Suction lantern                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Diffuser                                                                Plastic.PC

Impeller                                                                Plastic.POM

Motor external casing                                            AISI 304ss

Top cover                                                         1.Cast-Cu ASTM280. 2.Cast iron G20 UNI5007

Bottom support                                                     AISI 304 ss

Mechanical seal                                                    Special seal for deep well(carbon-SIC/TC)

Bearing                                                                 NSK(Japan)

 

5. FAQ

1>.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2>.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3>.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

4> Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

5> Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

6> How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.


Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Centrifugal Borehole Water Pumps



Q: I've got a 1997 Ford Probe, taken it to a couple different places; whenever I drive my vehicle, it tends to want to overheat. I don't drive it to the point where it does though, I know that could cause more damage! I've noticed that when I go out to my car in the morning, there's some coolant on the ground by the front passenger's tire. Before I drive it I fill it with coolant, as to try to keep it from overheating while driving.I've been told that it's the water pump leaking from 2 people but then the last person said there's no leakage. I'm wondering if it might be something else? Maybe a thermostat, a hose, maybe? How would I figure this out???
If it is your water pump, just keep driving the car and you will soon know. The pump will lock up, you get towed in, then get to have the pump repaired. By what you said, my guess is the water pump needs replaced.
Q: I was wondering if there was a device that can pump and cool water. What I am looking for is essentially an aquarium pump that cools the water as it circulates.
You okorder /
Q: i changed my fuel pump and now my car wont turn over....any help? maybe starter?
From the info you give, I would have to say, MAYBE!
Q: antifreeze leaking from the water pump. antifreeze wont stay in car, car overheating. 96 chevy cavalier. 2.4
Once the water pump starts leaking, you can never be sure just how fast it will deteriorate further. But sometimes, they go from a little leak to a big leak real fast. So I would get it to the shop ASAP. Bring a couple of jugs of water with you in the car if you can get along by stopping every 15 minutes and refilling the radiator after it cools down. But if it starts dumping coolant out like Niagara Falls under the car, you will have to have it towed to the shop.
Q: i want to hook a pressure booster pump to a well pump so i can have some pressure out of the well, is this doable?thanks!
That's an interesting question and it raises quite a few complicated hydro-engineering questions. If you used two pumps with the same output pressure, sequenced to switch on together, I do not believe you would increase the final output pressure over using just one pump. I'd think you'd need to have the first pump run to a pressure tank with a check valve and then use a booster pump to raise the pressure from that tank to the house meaning you'd need another pressure tank and check valve in the house. Have you looked at the air bladder diaphragm tanks that allow you to set the pressure by regulating the air pressure behind the bladder? This might be a better option than 2 pumps. Look at a company called Well-X-Trol.
Q: I keep having to add water to. Doesn't do anything when it's sitting up. But after you drive it straight for about 25 minutes. Time to add some more water. I figure it's the water pump. It's not leaking anywhere so it has to be a failing water pump. Oil still looks good, no smoking. AC and heater blows fine. Just runs hot after a while. I need another opinion. Its the 4 cylinder also. And yes it does be steaming. Tired of having to add water everyday.
The water pump seal will go bad if it isn't already because you are adding plain water to the cooling system! Antifreeze has a rust inhibitor and a lubricant in it and if you don't have the correct strength mix the inside of the block rusts and then the heater core and the radiator get plugged up resulting in hundreds of dollars in repairs. The water pump if leaking will drip on the passenger side from under the timing belt cover if you let the motor idle for 5 to 10 minutes. Look for the drips on the inside of the RF tire. If the water pump is leaking the timing belt will jump and bend all the valves.
Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
these prices are correct for dealership quote. you will get a cheaper price with independent shop. your timing belt should be changed anytime after 75k miles. the timing belt and belt tensioner will break and you do not want to have replace the cyl. head, it's alot more money. the dealership lied about your water pump. that year the water pump runs off the drive belts not the timing belt. you can replace the water pump and not even touch your timing belt. your cam adjuster seal probably not leaking. what happens is the valve cover leaks oil on to the cam adjuster and is commonly mis-diagnosed. try just changing the valve cover gasket, clean up your excess oil and reinspect the seals on the back of your cylinder head after 500 miles. good luck.
Q: My car randomly decided to dump fluids the other day. Now, the engine overheats after 5 minutes of driving it and the check engine light comes on. I put more coolant in it and noticed it began to drip underneath the car. I'm hoping it's a leak but being my car is 10 years old and I've never replaced either the water pump or the head gasket I figure it's about due time unfortunately. About how much would this cost me to have done at the garage?
The waterpump should run you around !$150 or less at most garages, -- about $45 maybe- if you do it yourself! The headgasket will probably cost you around 3-5 hundred depending on how much labor charge is! As it is possible that the head is warped and may need re-surcfaced to make it flat again --- and of course cost is going to depend on how much damage was done, -determined by how hot it got before you shut it down! The head gasket etc. shouldn't run much more htan $125-150 Now if it runs ok,-- and doesn't overheat when the radiator is full of water, -- even after warming up and driving on road for a few ninutes, -- (if leak fairly small - it will take some time to get down low enough to cause heat buildup)! I'd say 5 miles on highway would prove it is not warped head!! -- Just keep eye on temp and shut down if it starts getting close to overheat--- to avoid increasing damage, - if head gasket out! In yard, you can get pretty good idea, by just filling up raidator, and leaving cap off with engine running-- after it has idled for a few minutes, (and you have topped it up a couple times to make sure it is full of water, -- if gasket leaking it will blow continueous bubbles, -- after the thermostat opens, a little water will rise and run over (expansion of water) ). -- ****However it should not contionue blowing any continueaous bubbles--- (continued large quantities of bubbles indicates compression being blown into water jacket from bad headgsket!) ...A small bubble now and then is negligeable, as a bubble or two may still be trapped from when water level was down! You will know when thermostat opens, as there will be moving water obvious through filler neck of radiator, and the upper hose will become hot going into radiator! It is also possible that you may see oil on water if headgasket leaking, as well as water in oil-- which would be sort fo fuzzy yellowish looking junk on dipstick, and oil fill cap!
Q: Hey guys, I have a American Volkswagen Jetta 1999 manual transmission Gas Fuel, and the water pump is messed and I need to know where it goes. In front of the radiator? or somewhere else? Does anyone know where I can get any websites showing me instructions? Thanks.
I buy a Haynes manual for every car I buy. They are specific to your car, have great details, and include pictures. You can buy them at auto parts chain stores for under $20. They are creating CD/DVD versions, but I don't want to touch my computer when I'm greasy. Definitely replace the timing belt while you're in there (and every other belt along the way). No sense in putting in all that work and not replace a $10 A/c belt.
Q: the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
stick with the stock set up

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