• Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump System 3
Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump

Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump

Ref Price:
$250.00 - 5,000.00 / unit get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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1. Applications of Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump:
1> For water supply from wells or reservoirs.
2> For domestic use,for civil and industrial applications.
3> For garden use and irrigation. 

2. Operating conditions of Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump:
1> Maximum fluid temperature up to +35°C.
2> Maximum sand content: 0.3%.
3> Maximum immersion: 100m.    
4> Minimum well diameter: 4".    

3. Specification of Motor:
Three-phase:380-415V/50HZ    
Single-phase:220-240V/50HZ     
Equip with special start-up control box.
Internal diameter of outlet; 1.25".1.5".2"
Special features available:
1> Other voltages are acceptable.
2> Frequency 60Hz.
3> Other mechanical seal.
4> Equip with Auto-control box.

4. Description of Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump: 

Warranty: 1 years.
(according to our general sales conditions)  

Components:                                                         Material:

Pump external casing                                          AISI 304 ss

Delivery casing                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Suction lantern                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Diffuser                                                                Plastic.PC

Impeller                                                                Plastic.POM

Motor external casing                                            AISI 304ss

Top cover                                                         1.Cast-Cu ASTM280. 2.Cast iron G20 UNI5007

Bottom support                                                     AISI 304 ss

Mechanical seal                                                    Special seal for deep well(carbon-SIC/TC)

Bearing                                                                 NSK(Japan)


5. FAQ

1>.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2>.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3>.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump

Deep Well Borehole Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump





Q:I think my water pump is leaking and I want to replace it, but I can't figure out how to get the pulleys off. There is a large nut on the shaft that the pulleys are on, and I can't figure out how to remove it, or if the nut is attached to the shaft, and the entire shaft is supposed to come out, or how it's set up. Please help. Pictures would be great if possible. Thanks!
The nut that holds the fan on the water pump must be turned clockwise to loosen it,if you do not have a wrench that will fit in there you can use along screw driver and hammer locate the tip of the screw driver on the edge of the nut and hit the other side of the screw driver with the hammer one or two blows should do it,and then spin the fan and see if the nut turnes.If this does not work you need to get the proper wrench.I have done both but i had to buy the wrench from Snap On and another tool to hold the water pump bolts.
Q:What is a variable frequency water pump? What's the difference between a variable frequency pump and an ordinary pump?
1, frequency conversion water pump is based on ordinary water pump. The so-called common pump means without any automatic control device of the pump, only the pump head and the motor and a base. The power supply is switched on (default: 220/50Hz or domestic power single-phase three-phase 380V/50Hz) run off, stop. Ordinary pumps do not refer to a particular type of pump, can be centrifugal pumps, pipe pumps, vortex pumps, multi-stage pumps and other pumps commonly used.2, the variable frequency pump, is supplemented by a one-way valve, pressure tank, inverter, constant pressure water supply controller, sensor, valve or electrical components in general based on the composition of water pump with automatic function, and automatic constant pressure frequency conversion water supply device. The input power of frequency conversion water pump can be single phase 220V/50Hz or three-phase 380V/50Hz, but the motor of frequency conversion water pump is usually three-phase. The incoming line is a single-phase 220V variable frequency water pump. The motor is a three-phase 220V motor, the input line is three-phase 380V, and the pump motor is three-phase 380V.Two, the differenceAccording to the definition above, the difference between variable frequency water pump and ordinary water pump is obvious. The main differences: first, the frequency pump has automatic function and constant pressure; ordinary water pump does not; second, variable frequency water pump is a unit, the price is much more expensive than the ordinary water pump.
Q:hooking up a water pump to my tank and need a power supply
can you be a bit more descriptive have you a pump but no way of powering it if so what type of pump what voltage where is pump
Q:I have a 1978 El Camino V8 305. My power steering has been going out on me, and since then my belt has been squeaking usually when it first starts up. This morning when I got to work, smoke was bellowing from under my hood. Im trying to troubleshoot. Is it possible that my power steering pump damaged the belt enough that the water pump went out?
The only method of positive identification is to use a mechanics stethoscope. A failing bearing is most likely causing the whine, but wear in the p/s pump can also create a whining noise which will get noticeably louder when the wheel is turned and held against the stop with the engine running.
Q:Why my Water Pump is leaking again? It was replace 2 month ago brand new water pump?
I'm sure you used a brand new gasket correct?I'm also sure you scraped any old residual gasket material off the block before you installed the new gasket and water pump correct?You're also suppose to torque the bolts on this water pump in a certain sequence and to 40 ftlbs.If its leaking from between the pump mounting surface and block,its most likely improperly torqued or under torqued bolts,old gasket material wasn't cleaned off good enough,or the block surface has gouges in it which are too deep for just the gasket to seal.If its leaking from the underside of pump out of weep hole,the remanufactured water pump is no good and needs replacement.Make sure none of your hoses clamps are loose.Make sure its coolant leaking and not silicone fluid from the fan clutch.Fan clutch also needs to be stored upright when its not bolted to the water pump.If not,this can cause fluid to start leaking out of clutch.Click link below for vehicle water pump diagram and related info.
Q:they say a water pump going bad is supposed to weep out of that hole....Yet I see that a new water pump kit has two gaskettes.some o rings....is it likely that it can leak from these sources and still not come out the weep hole?They talk about berring that could go bad or seals gone bad...does this occure in the area that gets inserted into the engine( the turbine portion of the pump)if you had to guess..where is the most likely area for a water pump to fail...if seems like I have wetness off to the left( back toward the firewall) and less off to the right( front of the car)..more off the left..it is very subtile off the right.I don't see anything coming out of the weep hole..BUT the weephole is directly on top( dead center)and back towards the engine in this model. I have the car jacked up on the passengers side/next to the wheel wellso the fluid is most likely to flow backwards toward the drivers side.
A water pump could have all the works above the water, pulling via suction and pushed via atmospheric rigidity to a optimal of roughly 33 ft. Or it could have the motor above water and the lifting mechanism below with an prolonged rod connecting (like an oil properly with the donkey engine on the outdoors), yet a gaggle of weight and friction. Or it truly is waterproofed and the motor and pump decreased down the drilled shaft on a plastic pipe with an electric cord jointly with and push the water up. The final is a submersable. further sump pumps and recirculating pumps the place the cord, motor, and pump are below the liquid.
Q:My old pump burned up so i recently replaced it (with a refurbished pump) I have new pipe to the pump, new tank. my pump is a 1/2 hp 230v pump, I also replaced the control box. With my pump plugged in and the water coming straight out of the pipe bypassing the tank when I turn the power on I will get water for a minute or so then I won't get water for a minute. This will keep happening. I have checked the switch and when I quit getting water there is still power going to the pump. any suggestions or ideas? bad wiring or bad pump?...I know that there is water in thew well, the pump is located at 100 ft of a 115 ft well and i can see the water level about 10 ft underground.
Immediately I would suspect the referbished pump is not working properly. Unfortunately you will have to take it out and test it under the same circumstances you describe, but complete the system so the pump has some pressure to work against. Just running the pump with minimal pressure might not reveal the problem. Under working load the pump might be over heating (just enough to open a bad coil) and cause it to shut down till the coil cooled and made temporary reconnection. Good luck. )
Q:I need to get my water pump replaced because it is cracked, a coolant flush and my belt is dry. I went to pep boys because my check engine light came on.They want to charge me 950 for the job. I am reluctant to pay that much. I drive an '06 Pontiac Torrent. I am suppose to take my car in today but I am not sure if I am being ripped off or not. Is 950 too much?
Water okorder to see what the average cost of a waterpump is in your area.
Q:need lincoln 01 water pump and radiator do 2000 parts fit an 01?
never okorder and type in your data. hit radiator. click on product and hit the compatability button. if its the same, it will be listed almost surely.
Q:Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.

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