• Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps System 1
  • Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps System 2
  • Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps System 3
Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
200 unit/month

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1. Applications of deep weel submersible pump:
1> For water supply from wells or reservoirs.
2> For domestic use,for civil and industrial applications.
3> For garden use and irrigation. 

2. Operating conditions:
1> Maximum fluid temperature up to +35°C.
2> Maximum sand content: 0.3%.
3> Maximum immersion: 100m.    
4> Minimum well diameter: 4".    

3. Specification of Motor:
Three-phase:380-415V/50HZ    
Single-phase:220-240V/50HZ     
Equip with special start-up control box.
Internal diameter of outlet
 1.25".1.5".2"
Special features available:
1> Other voltages are acceptable.
2> Frequency 60Hz.
3> Other mechanical seal.
4> Equip with Auto-control box.

4. Description of pumps: 

Warranty: 1 years.
(according to our general sales conditions)  

Components:                                                         Material:

Pump external casing                                          AISI 304 ss

Delivery casing                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Suction lantern                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Diffuser                                                                Plastic.PC

Impeller                                                                Plastic.POM

Motor external casing                                            AISI 304ss

Top cover                                                         1.Cast-Cu ASTM280. 2.Cast iron G20 UNI5007

Bottom support                                                     AISI 304 ss

Mechanical seal                                                    Special seal for deep well(carbon-SIC/TC)

Bearing                                                                 NSK(Japan)

 

5. FAQ

1>.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2>.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3>.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

4> Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

5> Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

6> How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.


Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps



Q: removed my water pump to replace it. i have the fan and clutch assembly still attached...i have no idea how to remove these...the fan clutch has bolts that hold the fan to it...and i did remove those but im just not sure how to separate this assembly...my water pump pulley has 4 holes...and no bolts so i presume it's pressed on...and there looks to be a very large nut between the pulley and the fan/clutch assembly...any help would be appreciated on this...i'd much rather go to the parts store w/ the old pump instead of guessing.....thnx in advance...
Corrosion is now holding everything to the pump. Use a screwdriver to help separate them. Here is a link compliments of Auto Zone showing how to remove the water pump. You will note in the picture that the pump has a shaft sticking out of the front. That is holding the clutch and fan on. Earlier I gave you the wrong link. This is the correct one for the V6. The others were for the V8s They mention to remove the fan before removing the water pump. The fan should be bolted to the clutch in the manner you say. If you grasp the shaft on the pump, the fan and clutch should rotate freely. If you pulled the 4 bolts off the pulley, the fan and clutch assembly should come off. The pulley should then fall free. Is anyone else helping you with this and they already took the bolts out? If not you must have some alternate water pump that Chrysler failed to tell everyone about. Is the large nut against the pulley or the fan clutch? I wish we could talk on the phone. Get a mallet. Put the pump on a clean surface and use the mallet to tap the pulley on one side then the other. Hopefully this will help work this off. Once you get this off, you will see it should look like the pictures I sent to you. I just sent you another link that has 3 different ways they have the fan mounted to the water pump. Yes, there is a large nut holding the clutch on. It says it is a right handed nut so be careful taking it off.
Q: I replaced the water pump on my 350 chevy small block and the thing is leaking out of the lower bolt hole on the passenger side. I was told to remove the bolt and coat it with permatex hi tack gasket sealer and reinstall it. Any how I'm wondering why there would be a leak there in the first place, any ideas?
my first response is, you used a wrong gasket or you mucked up the gasket when you installed it. Then i think of maybe the water pump casting cracked when you tightened the bolt. ( but not likely) . I guess you could try the sealer thing. but you could test it to see if it leaking from under the bolt head. The way you could do that is put a soft washer , like copper washer under the bolt head and put the bolt back in. the soft copper washer will make a water tight seal. if it were me , i would remove the pump and find out what the hay is wrong . i have replaced at least 6 water pumps on my own chevys, and have never had that problem.
Q: my water pump is leaking and chirping would like to know the procedure
Remove all accessories that ate in the way. Drain antifreeze. Remove water pump. Clean block install new pump with gasket. Install accessories and fill with water. This is a very basic description. You need a manual to tell you more.
Q: What is the function of a submersible pump?
Submersible pump motor and pump is directly connected with the water pump body into the water to work, it is suitable for the extraction of groundwater from wells, can also be used in rivers, reservoirs, canals and other water projects: mainly used for irrigation and plateau in the drinking water, but also for the city, factories, railways, mining and construction site the use of water supply and drainage.Characteristics of submersible pumps for well1 、 motor, water pump, submerged operation, safe and reliable.2, the well pipe and pump water pipe without special requirements (i.e.: steel tube wells, tube wells, Doi ash can be used).3, installation, use and maintenance of convenient, simple, small footprint, do not need to build pumping stations.The structure is simple, and the raw materials are saved.4, submersible pump conditions are appropriate, properly managed, and has a direct relationship with the service life.
Q: i hear water swirl in my dash board when i take off and when i reverse, i heard its the water pump pushing water through the heater core, but how can i fix it.?
The issue is not just that the water pump is pumping air through the system, it is that there is an issue with air being in there in the first place. It gets there one of two ways. First, your cooling system is losing water somewhere and air is getting drawn in through the coolant overflow bottle or through a leak in the hoses, the radiator, or the radiator cap. Second it is getting in through a compression leak. Compression leaks are caused by blown head gaskets or cracked or corroded cylinder heads or engine blocks. You need to determine which it is, because you need to address the issues differently. Fill the cooling system with coolant, purge the air out of it, and connect a pressure gauge to the radiator where the cap normally goes. Start the engine. If the gauge fluctuates up and down, you have a compression leak caused by a blown head gasket or crack in the block or head. If the gauge doesn't fluctuate, you have a leak in the cooling system that could be in any one of many places, such as hoses, caps, freeze plugs, the radiator itself, the heater core, or one of many gaskets. If it turns out to be a compression leak, you need to pull off the heads and replace the gaskets, and if there is any corrosion or cracks, you need to either replace or repair the heads. Broken head bolts can also allow compression leaks, so if you do remove the heads, you need to replace the bolts and torque them to the correct specs. If your engine oil looks frothy, like latte, this is another sign that you have a blown head gasket. It means coolant is getting into the engine oil. If it is a leak in the cooling system that is not related to the head gasket, you need to find it and seal it. There is no other way to find out exactly what is allowing air into your cooling system other than these two methods. The sound you hear when water is flowing through your heater core is actually the air gurgling through. No air, no sound.
Q: my car ran hot a few times, its a 2006 chevy impala LS with about 50k miles.I do alot of driving but never had a problem until now. I took it to get an oil change and they said that I need a new water pump. I really dont know what that means but im afraid to drive my car until i get a new pump. i called around a few auto places and no one has the part. I called the chevy dealer and they said part and labor is $600. any suggestions of other places i can check for the part? can i still drive my car in the mean time? is it safe?are water pumps usually that expensive?
2006 Impala Water Pump
Q: I'm only 18 and don't know much about cars, but my car was overheating so me and my boyfriend brought it to a mechanic.They told me it needs a new timing belt and water pump and that alone would be like 1450.. From my research that sounds like bullshit. By the way I drive a 2000 neon, is it THAT hard to work on, or am I being ripped off?
Take it someplace else... I could be wrong but $1400 sounds to high.... maybe $400 would be closer to a correct ammount.
Q: My car overheats in hot temperatures I have try everything except replacing the water pump and radiator how can I tell when its time to change each one and is it a do-it-yourself job
Generally you don't need to replace a radiator unless water is running out of it. As for the water pump, if it was going bad your car would overheat when it was parked and running. Also it really isn't a do it yourself project, that is something you are better off paying a mechanic to do.
Q: We have 2 1995 E320's that are heating up way too high when running. One has been diagnosed at the repair shop for a malfunctioning fan clutch. They also said that as the car was running hot the water pump and thermostat should also be replaced (??) The water pump is 5.5 hours of labor and I cannot afford it right now. I was wondering how hard to replace it myself. Thanks
Contrary to the mythology, a Mercedes is just a car, and the cooling system isn't very different from any other car. Well within the ability of any good mechanic. Most likely causes of overheating are malfunctioning fans, either the clutch or the electric fans. Other likely suspects are the fan sensors, lower radiator hose and thermostat. Then consider a plugged radiator. The water pump is on the list, but way down. I think you should start with the obvious, cheaper stuff first. So basic
Q: I have a water pump that works with 12V and 2 amps.I was thinking to get a potentiometer to be able to slow down the speed.Is this the best way to do it? What wattage should it have, so it doesn't burn out, and what should be the maximum resistance, to be able to stop the pump completely?And OKorder or product link would be great!Thanks!
You need to be aware if you slow do a pump it will pump less and produce less pressure. Running slower it might not be able to overcome the resistance in the discharge piping.

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