• Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps System 1
  • Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps System 2
  • Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps System 3
Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
200 unit/month

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1. Applications of deep weel submersible pump:
1> For water supply from wells or reservoirs.
2> For domestic use,for civil and industrial applications.
3> For garden use and irrigation. 

2. Operating conditions:
1> Maximum fluid temperature up to +35°C.
2> Maximum sand content: 0.3%.
3> Maximum immersion: 100m.    
4> Minimum well diameter: 4".    

3. Specification of Motor:
Three-phase:380-415V/50HZ    
Single-phase:220-240V/50HZ     
Equip with special start-up control box.
Internal diameter of outlet
 1.25".1.5".2"
Special features available:
1> Other voltages are acceptable.
2> Frequency 60Hz.
3> Other mechanical seal.
4> Equip with Auto-control box.

4. Description of pumps: 

Warranty: 1 years.
(according to our general sales conditions)  

Components:                                                         Material:

Pump external casing                                          AISI 304 ss

Delivery casing                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Suction lantern                                                    Cast-Cu ASTM280

Diffuser                                                                Plastic.PC

Impeller                                                                Plastic.POM

Motor external casing                                            AISI 304ss

Top cover                                                         1.Cast-Cu ASTM280. 2.Cast iron G20 UNI5007

Bottom support                                                     AISI 304 ss

Mechanical seal                                                    Special seal for deep well(carbon-SIC/TC)

Bearing                                                                 NSK(Japan)

 

5. FAQ

1>.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2>.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3>.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

4> Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

5> Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

6> How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.


Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps

Deep well Submersible Borehole Water Pumps



Q: I drive a 1995 Acura integra ls model I'm mechanically inclined just not enough to do a headgasket (more patience wise) my car loses coolant once in every 3 weeks it starts to over heat. I don't have white smoke coming out of the exhaust or milky oil. Everything else runs smooth on my car. I've head it pressure tested and every thing else checks out so I'm kind of lost. All hoses are fine and not leaking and there is no coolant leaks showing up on the ground. Any ideas?
head gasket sealant interior the truck so there replace right into a head gasket concern from the get pass? putting that crap in it replace right into a band-aide. and now you're caught with the subject. it incredibly is uncertain at this factor climate gasket sealant additive replace into used to tackle a leaking chamber or in the event that they have been given fooled by a a danger intake gasket concern. do no longer comprehend the unique indicators that triggered that undesirable selection. sorry! i might say that sealant crap ultimately passed on to the great beyond. no person ever would desire to have positioned that stuff in there interior the 1st place. would desire to have dealt with the subject somewhat of using a band-aide in a bottle that motives greater issues that it *tries* to unravel. i pass to get a combustion leak tester later, yet i'm basically questioning. so which you're taking this to a great ASE keep for analysis? i'm going to enable them to interrupt the undesirable information to you.
Q: was told by a Toyota Service that this would only be 1 hour more labor and cost me about 140 dollars more..and that they always recommend it being done same time as timing belt and water pump replacement....but is really a good idea or not? (if engine is 20 years old..but has ony 150 ,000 miles on it..btw. this is for a 94 Toyota 4 Runner V6 engine
Do not use that shop again. There's more work than that involved in doing what they say they can do in an hour. I have never had those recommendations for any of my Toyotas that were serviced regularly.
Q: Two sewage pumps switch from each other, start with float switch control, the first sump, when the water is full, the first start, the second rotation to second units start, so the cycle of alternating
The puddle is full, the float switch is closed, and the relay J1 works to drive the first motor. The J1's work makes the intermediate relay 'J' work and locks itself, preparing for the work of the second machines. The water level is lowered to the required minimum position, the ball is broken, the motor is stopped and the motor is stopped. When the water level rose to the highest position again, the floating ball closed again, the relay J2 and self-locking relay J2 to drive second motors, instant intermediate relay are opened, when the water level again be reduced to the lowest position, float off, the motor stops working, stop by working in front of the intermediate relay. The whole circuit back to the original state. So that the two motors work alternately.It should be noted that the circuit diagram for simple to understand, only painted the control circuit, there is no main circuit, there is no missing phase, leakage, over-current and other protection, the actual installation needs to be installed. There is the role of time relay is to ensure that the relay J2 normal work, the intermediate relay is disconnected, so that the motor 2 does not occur wrong action, time relay can be set to a few seconds, or even less than a second. Intermediate relay can also be controlled by time relay, and its time is also set very small, so as to avoid J2 short time possible power supply.
Q: I am trying to replace my old water pump with a new one. I have the quot;special tooland everything but i just cant get the water pump to come loose at all. Any suggestions would be helpful Thanks
When you mean it wont come loose, do you mean you cant break the bolts loose or is the pump stuck on the motor like glue? If the bolts are stuck, try spray them with penetrating oil and let it work in for about 30 mins. If the pump is stuck, use a narrow putty knif, gently tap in between the pump and the block, and pry it off, then clean the mating surface completely to ensure the new pump seals properly.
Q: How to measure the temperature of pump body?
Pump body temperature in general, with the hands feel good, and when the hand arrived, can not accept, the pump will have a problem. Specific by their touch cooked.
Q: 2000 3.3L engine. I understand,depending on engine year, it can be a very difficult job. Is this the one or is it much more difficult on the 3.0 L ? One involves timing belt ? Help ? Thanks' Ken
If there are not any obvious leaks, the 1st factor to envision may be the Radiator/coolant reservoir cap for a lacking gasket or o-ring based at this variety of cap, and if ok, do a tension attempt to work out if the cap is preserving tension. in the journey that your engine has a bleed screw, you ought to use compressed air source (and regulator, if mandatory) to pressurize the engine to particularly below the cap score and than seem for leaks. If none chanced on, a compression examine will point out a a probability blown head gasket.
Q: What does the pump lift mean?
The pump head is the height or length of the distance from the pump to the outlet
Q: I would like information to use an automotive water pump to ( or possibly another device ) to pump water approximately 60 feet (20 meters) elevation from creek without electricity. I only need enough water for 25 chickens. So we are not talking about a households supply of water.
a car water pump is run off a belt like your alternator etc so you would really be able to use its not a pump that u can just stick anywhere. if it is only to feed 25 chooks then it wouldnt hurt to just fetch them a bucket of water of every morning that would do.
Q: i have a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse and my Car started to leak water and as soon as i start to put water it starts to leak and it wont take in the water that has on the side as well. what should i do or what do you recommend?
Check the hoses first.
Q: my water pump is leaking how do i change it out
Pull your belts off and the fan, clutch assembly if there is one. Undo those eight or so bolts that hold the pump on and swap it for a new one. Drain the coolant first or you'll have a mess on your hands. You don't always have to remove the radiator but sometimes that gives you more clearance to work with.

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