Deep Well Pump with High Quality (3.5SD2/90QJD2)

Deep Well Pump with High Quality (3.5SD2/90QJD2)

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:3.5SD2/90QJD2

Performance:Drainage Pump

Start Up:Electric Pump

Media:Water Pump

Application:Submersible Pump, Clarified Water Pump

Type:Blade Pump

Material:Stainless Steel

Power:Electric

Structure:Multistage Pump

Theory:Centrifugal Pump

Assembly:Liquid Pumps

Industry:Household & Agricultural Pump

Capacity: 2.0 to 3.0 M3/H:Adopted The NEMA Standard

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Export Carton

Standard:CE, SGS

Production Capacity:20000PCS/Year

Product Description

3.5 Inch Deep Well Pump

-Applications
For water supply from wells or reservoirs. For domestic use, for civil and industrial applications. For garden use and irrigation.

-Operating Conditions
Maximum fluid temperature up to +35º C
Maximum sand content: 0.3%
Maximum immersion: 91m
Minimum well diameter: 3.5 inch

-Motor and Pump
Rewindable motor
Three-phase: 380V-415V, Single-phase: 220V-240
Equip with special start-up control box.
Adopted the NEMA standard
Insulation class: B
Protection grade: IP 68
Intermal diameter of outlet : 1¼ " 1"

-Warranty
1 year (according to our general sales conditions)

-Production Photo

MODEL	p₂		Capacity and head
MODEL	p₂		m 3 /h	0	0.5	1	1.5	2	2.5	3	3.5	4	4.5	5.6	Length	Weight
1~sing phase 220-240V~Hz50	Kw	Hp	L/min	0	8	17	25	33	42	50	58	66	75	93	mm	kg
3.5SDM2/5-0.25 90QJD2/5-0.25	0.25	0.55	H(m)	26	25	25	24	23	22	20	17	15	11	2	644	8
3.5SDM2/7-0.37 90QJD2/7-0.37	0.37	0.5		35	34	33	32	30	28	26	23	18	14	3	717	8.7
3.5SDM2/11-0.55 90QJD2/11-0.55	0.55	0.75		55	54	53	52	49	46	42	38	32	25	4	898	10.5
3.5SDM2/16-0.75 90QJD2/16-0.75	0.75	1.0		78	76	75	71	66	62	55	48	39	30	5	1063	11.9
3.5SDM2/19-1.1 90QJD2/19-1.1	1.1	1.5		93	92	91	89	84	79	71	63	53	42	6	1185	13.6
3.5SDM2/21-1.5 90QJD2/21-1.5	1.5	2.0		102	101	100	96	91	85	77	68	56	43	7	1303	15

Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?: It sounds like you have two pressure tanks. I am going to guess that the one under your pump probably went out and instead of taking it out and re-plumbing everything they just spliced in a new tank. You can get a re-build kit for most pumps but it sound like your pump is pretty old and probably being held together with faith and rust and taking it apart might cause more problems. What I would do is price out what the re-build cost and what labor might be against what a new system might be. If you decide to go with a new system I would suggest looking into getting a submersible pump, using the same tank but making sure it is in a good location and plumbed with a union. when your pressure tank finally goes out it is going to weigh a ton and trying to move it around plumbing can be difficult. good luck and happy holidays.

Q: yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry: You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.

Q: What are the quota items for the complete pump installation?: It can be divided into the following sections:1. pump installation platform, to obtain concrete and reinforced section (if any)2. anchor bolt installation: cap construction reserved bolt mounting holes of the anchor bolt installation hole grouting taking, (may be incorporated into the 1), and the damping piece related item;3. pump installation: installed in the installation of fixed item taking pump, check the wiring and debugging section, the first cable.The above is only a rough expression, the specific problems are flexible.If you still don't understand, you can contact me.

Q: how does a water pump work?: Water pump works by suction and lifting up the water to a desired level. The mechanism of pump to increase the hydraulic height/level of fluid. Example : The pump will pump and lift water from a 25 feet deep well and carry it up to fill a water tank placed on a 30 feet high structure.

Q: 2001 buick centurywater runs down at area of crank shaft: I concur with the weep hole definition. However, when coolant starts to leak through that hole, it is time for a new water pump. Which engine do you have? If you have the 3800 V6, that pump is fairly easy to change. The 3100 and 3400's water pumps are also fairly easy to do with some twisting and turning of the hands. Either way, make sure you get the right water pump for your engine.

Q: Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!: I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck

Q: i have a significant stream of water running out of the coolant return side of the engine under the coolant pipe on a 1997 caravan i will lose a gallon and then it stops until the engine heats up and of course more comes out with expansion: You will have to remove the AC compressor, all of the drive belts, alternator bracket, power steering pump and bracket, motor mount, timing cover, and the timing belt. This job calls for 4.3 hours and I was able to do one in about 3. If you really want to attempt this yourself, let me know and I will give you detailed step by step instructions to do it, right down to the timing marks and what size each bolt is. If you have never done a water pump/timing belt on any car before, I strongly recommend you don't attempt this repair yourself. The 3.0 really isn't a bad one to do, if you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge and ability.

Q: I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!: We have owned Honda's for years, including three 90's Civics. We have had the timing belts changed by the dealer also - also the cheapest price - and they have always recommended changing the tensioner and the water pump while in there. The timing belt is such a critical piece of equipment that is should be changed on schedule. The new belts go much longer than the old belts. But it's only a hundred more at most to have the water pump replaced at the same time so make them do it. If you water pump goes out in another 20000 miles, the labor charge to get to it will be 400 or 500 bucks. Most dealerships will do the water pump for parts cost markup if they are also doing your timing belt. You can also negotiate your price with a dealership. Try it. If they won't budge, find a new dealer.

Q: I am creating a project where I must pump water to a helmet. If you have any ideas, thoughts, solutions, diagrams, etc. please? thanks: your question is not clear, do you need to build the pump from scratch or you should find one? what is the water flow rate? how high the water need to go? what the helmet has to do with the problem? simplest solution will be to go to the store and buy small hand pump (for fuel).

Q: House has bad mains pressure, so previous owner installed a quot;Holding Tankwhich stores water from the mains, before pumping it into the house for the internal tanks.However, after some recent plumbing work when the mains was turned off, it's running a little weird. The pump seems to be constantly running, although at a very low level, and some times when the taps/fawcets are opened, they seems to be nothing for up to 30 seconds (only air), and then the water rushes out. Same thing for toilet/WC cisterns..Any advice/pointers appreciated.CheersJM: If the possibility exists then relocating the pump below the level of the water source prevent air entering the pump. Having leaks in pipes and seals will let in air all the time and should be corrected. Many centrifugal pumps have a priming hole that is on top to fill the pump with water if they are not self priming but you need to make sure that the pump does not drain empty while closing the hole and starting the pump. Some pumps have a priming tank that is filled with water and then the opened to the priming port, these can be used with the pump already running and will collect the air bubles from the pump while it is starting. Positive displacement and self priming pumps create sufficient suction/vacuume to draw the colum of water intot the pump to get going and if these fail it is due to excess height above the suction water level or leaks in pipes or seals.

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