• Deep Well Pump Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Deep Well Pump Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump System 2
Deep Well Pump Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump

Deep Well Pump Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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NF Deep Well Pump Submersible Water Centrifugal Pump

 

Applications

For water supply from wells or reservoirs.

For domestic use,for civil and industrial applications.

For garden use and irrigation.

 

Operating conditions

Maximum fluid temperature up to +40.

Maximum sand content:0.25%.

Motor and Pump

Rewindable motor

Three-phase:380V-415V/50Hz

Single-phase:220V-240V/50Hz

Options on request

Special mechanical seal

Other voltages or frequency 60Hz


* 100% Copper wire with overload protector

 

*Cold-rolled silicon steel sheet, with high-speed punching, improve the efficiency and precision.

 

*CNC precision automatic lathe for smoother shaft

 

*Anti-rust treatment castings and electrophoresis

 

* Automatic machine for spool wire and roll machine for tie wires .



 

Warranty:1 year

(according to our general sales conditions).

After Sales:
1).We are very glad that customer give us some suggestion for price and products.
2).If any question, please let us know it in the first by E-mail or Telephone. We can deal with them for you in time.
3).We will send many news styles in every week to our old customers.

We promise to: 
Offer our customers the lowest prices. 
Streamline the buying and paying processes. 


Q: Pump impeller diameter plus assembly what changes? What's the effect on the motor?
Two item 1.5 kilowatt type self suction pump original impeller 14.7cm installed 15.5cm may be a problem.After the impeller increases, the flow, head, shaft power will increase (increase in volume see the following formula), the original 1.5KW motor may overload operation.The larger the diameter of the impeller, the greater the lift, the greater the flow rate, because the flow rate of water depends on the centrifugal force generated by the impeller rotation and the line speed on the tangent. The greater the diameter, the greater the centrifugal force and the linear speed. The relationship between the centrifugal pump water delivery and the vacuum degree is that the centrifugal pump is the centrifugal force principle to complete pumping. Without water, the time and space turn will burn out the equipment. Vacuum pumping or vacuum pumping two times.The vacuum of the inlet of the centrifugal pump is composed of three parts (the equation of the inlet of the pump and the level of the suction liquid).
Q: Hi all, I went on vacation and forgot to turn my water heaters to vacation! When I returned the water was cold coming through the faucet. After some investigation I realised the water heater pump had tripped the trip switch on the main electric panel. I reset it and thought all would be fine. Now it is OK for a day or two and then it trips the electric panel again. Any Ideas on what is the matter and how I might fix it? The water heaters themselves are fine and are burning all OK. Many Thanks!
CALL A DA.NED ELECTRICIAN---WHATCHA WANT ?? FREE,BUT BAD, ADVICE WHICH IF FOLLOWED,COULD RESULT IN AN ELECTRIAL FIRE WHICH COULD ENDANGER NOT ONLY YOUR 'WORLDLY POSSESSIONS', BUT, THE LIVES OF OTHERS---INCLUDING THE POSSIBILITY OF YOUR OWN, AS WELL AS OTHER LOVED ONES---
Q: how do i take water pump off took all hoses and bolts i think off dont know whats holdin it on how many bolt hold it on i know the seal can hold it on ther but it wont budge even when i use block of wood and tap with hammer
Raise and suitably support vehicle. Electrical connectors from electric engine coolant fans. Electric engine coolant fans. Engine block coolant drain hole plug and knock sensor. Drain engine coolant. Install engine block coolant drain hole plug and knock sensor. Tighten Coolant drain hole plug to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.) Knock sensor to 19 Nm (14 ft. lbs.) Lower vehicle. Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector. Air intake duct from throttle body and Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor. Upper and lower radiator hoses from water pump. Heater hoses from water pump and throttle body. Electrical connector from coolant sensor. Reposition ignition coil and bracket. Air pump and bracket. Water pump bolts/screws (40) and stud (41). Water pump (37). Water pump gaskets (38). Water pump driveshaft coupling (39), and water pump driveshaft seals (156). Clean Water pump gasket surfaces. Water pump bolts/screws and stud. INSTALLATION Water pump driveshaft coupling (39), and water pump driveshaft seals using Water Pump Driveshaft Assembly O-Ring Seal Installer (156). Water pump gaskets (38). Water pump (37). Water pump bolts/screws (40) and stud (41). Tighten water pump bolts/screws (40) and stud (41) to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.) . Air pump and bracket. Position coil and bracket. Electrical connector to coolant sensor. Heater hoses to water pump and throttle body. Upper and lower radiator hoses to water pump. Air intake duct to throttle body and MAF sensor. IAT sensor electrical connector. Electrical connectors to electric engine coolant fans. Refill cooling system. Inspect for leaks, after running engine to normal operating temperature.
Q: I have to replace the hot water recirculating pump in my house. It is made in Hungary and the Manufacturer's letters look almost Russian. The only words in English are the spec's (amp draw, voltage, etc.) This house was built in 1998 and the plumber's no longer in business. It looks like it just threads onto a quot;capbut I don't want to start using pipe wrenches and just mangle it (it's very difficult to get to also). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
particular you are able to. in certainty there's a recirculating equipment called a Polaris water heater which could furnish warm water for all your place carry desires and warmth your place too. the cost of operationg a Polaris equipment is extra cost-effective than an on call for warm water heater.
Q: what is a submersible well pump?
lets break it down... submersible- able to be put underwater... well- deep hole that water comes from... pump- sucks the water...
Q: they say a water pump going bad is supposed to weep out of that hole....Yet I see that a new water pump kit has two gaskettes.some o rings....is it likely that it can leak from these sources and still not come out the weep hole?They talk about berring that could go bad or seals gone bad...does this occure in the area that gets inserted into the engine( the turbine portion of the pump)if you had to guess..where is the most likely area for a water pump to fail...if seems like I have wetness off to the left( back toward the firewall) and less off to the right( front of the car)..more off the left..it is very subtile off the right.I don't see anything coming out of the weep hole..BUT the weephole is directly on top( dead center)and back towards the engine in this model. I have the car jacked up on the passengers side/next to the wheel wellso the fluid is most likely to flow backwards toward the drivers side.
Yes it's possible one of the gaskets is bad,but if you're going thru the work of replacing the gasket you may as well replace the water pump,unless it's a new unit already
Q: A rectangular tank that is 2 feet long, 3 feet wide and 6 feet deep is filled with a heavy liquid that weighs 80 pounds per cubic foot. How much work is done pumping all of the liquid out over the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping all of the liquid out of a spout 5 feet above the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping two-thirds of the liquid out over the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping two-thirds of the liquid out of a spout 5 feet above the top of the tank?I thought that math was hard enough and now they added physics..
Work is force x distance, which is conveniently pounds x feet. Since we are only interested in the height here (as that is the direction we are pumping), we only need to integrate along that path. The differential weight/force being pumped is the volume (LxWxH = 2 x 3 x dH) times the density (80) and the distance is the height that volume is pumped (6 - H). So W = integral( 6 * 80 * dH * (6-H)) from H=0 to 6 W = integral ((2880 - 480H) dH) = 2880H - 240*H^2 = 2880(6) - 240*(6)^2 = 8640 foot-pounds of work. If you are pumping from the spout, replace the 6-H with 11-H, and the answer becomes 23,040 foot-pounds, which makes sense since you have almost tripled the averge height you were lifting. For the 2/3, change the range of the integration to H = 2 - 6, since H = 0 - 2 represents the water at the bottom of the tank that will still be there later. This gives you answers of 3840 and 13,440 foot-pounds respectively, showing that the last couple of feet are the hardest to pump out (because they have the farthest to go...)
Q: I was recently driving and noticed my heat gauge in the red. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 door LX. When I opened the hood what appears to be water was all over the place. Is this the water pump or something else? I want to fix it this weekend so I was hoping for a better understanding of what it might be. I am aware of the labor involved with the water pump and removing the timing belts to get to it. Thanks a bunch in advance!
Almost certainly not the water pump. It will leak from the weep hole on the back of the block, near the timing belt housing if it fails, and that won't produce coolant all over the engine. My daughter's 1993 Accord water pump failed and I had a hard time seeing the leakage because most of it happened gradually when on the road. Even if the shaft leaked because the weep hole was plugged it would be inside timing belt cover, not spraying all over. My bets are on a hose, especially near the thermostat housing where the heat is the highest. The thermostat is in a housing on the back edge of the engine - follow the lower radiator hose (weird, huh?) back to the housing. Several hoses come together there. The thermostat isn't going to cause the leak but you need to know where the housing is. The radiator is also a major suspect. As long as you got the engine stopped pretty soon after the overheating began the head gasket is going to be okay, too - it is not a good suspect for the symptoms you have so far. The easiest way to see where the leak is when there is that much loss is to refill the radiator with purified water - never put tap water in the cooling system except in an emergency - and let the engine idle until you see it dripping on the ground (remove the splash guard under the nose) or spraying under the hood.
Q: do I need to replace it again ? How hard is it to change the water pump? Any Idea where on the internet I can download a free maintenance manual or replacement instructions ?
I would turn the crankshaft with the belt on until the timing marks line up, then remove the belt, do the work, then put it back together... if you take it apart with the timing marks out of alignment, then it will be more difficult to put back. just a tip.
Q: I don't want to have to rent or purchase a electric pump to pump the water out of my pool so are there other ways to get the water out besides the obvious (a bucket and alot of people). I am really tight on money so purchasing a device to do the work isn't a real option but I really need to drain the pool without damaging it.
You can do a back wash, which will drain it.

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