Deep Water Well Cast Iron Hand Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 5000 unit/month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)
Model Number:250QJ80-60
Theory:Centrifugal Pump
Structure:Single-stage Pump
Usage:Water
Power:Electric
Standard or Nonstandard:Standard
Fuel:Electric
Pressure:High Pressure
Application:Submersible
Material:Cast Iron / Stainless Steel
Color:Blue
Well Diameter:no less than 250mm
Flow:80m3/h
Head Range:51-69m
Power:22 kW
Design Service:Accept
Drive:Motor
OEM:Accept

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	wooden box packing
Delivery Detail:	5-7days after payment confirmation or as customers' requirements

Specifications

deep water well cast iron hand pump
1.complete in specifications
3.good performance
4.deep well pump

deep water well cast iron hand pump

1. Operation parameters :

(1). Flow range : 10~500 m3/h

(2). Lift range : 10~600m

(3). Applicable well Borehole diameter : φ175~φ400mm

(4).Diameter scope:φ32~φ203mm;

(5).Temperature range: -15~80 centidegree.

2. Product overview :

QJ submersible pumps are widely used in agriculture irrigation, sprinkler irrigation, well water lifting and water supply, drain system of industrial and civil building, as well as the hill, mountain areas' water diversion, drainage of low-lying area, water supply, drainage of industrial and mining enterprises in urban and rural area and all the other water facilities.

3. Technical parameters

Model	Flow range (m3/h)	Head range (m)	Rotation speed (r/min)	Pump efficiency (%)	Rated power of motor (kw)	Maximum outer diameter of unit (mm)	Weight (kg)
175QJ10-40/3	9-11	42- 38	2850	53	2.2		48
175QJ15-65/5	13-17	68- 62	2850	58	5.5	168	73
200QJ15-26/2	13-17	28- 24	2850	62	2.2	184	48
200QJ20-30/2	18-22	31- 29	2850	66	3	184	59

4. QJ using condition

(1). 380V voltage deviation is no more than ±5%, frequency is 50HZ, three -phase power deviation is no more than ±1%.

(2). Motor cavity must be filled with water.

(3). The first stage impeller of the pump should be more than 2mm below the moving water surface, pump unit should be less than 70m below the static water level.

(4). The distance from the motor bottom to well bottom must be more than 3m.

(5). Water temperature should be no more than 20 centidegree.

(6). Sand content of the water ( by mass) should be no more than 0.01%.

(7). PH value of water 6.5~8.5.

(8). Hydrogen sulfide content of the water should be no more than 1.5mg/L.

(9). Chloride ion content of the water should be no more than 400mg/L.

(10). Water yield of water source should ensure the requirements of pump continuous working.

5. Characteristics

(1). Motors and pumps assembled into one.

(2). Simple structure.

(3). Easy installation and removal, small area.

(4). Simple using and maintenance.

(5). Safe and reliable operation, no pollution to water, etc.

Q: I think the water pump is going out in my truck can I still drive it short distance if I put water in it first?: Just make sure ur truck dont run hot. What I would/have done is put water in it then while u drive if the temp starts goin up pull over.

Q: 1978 Ranchero 500. Pumps leaking like crazy. I have a belt to remove, which i assume is the serpentine belt? Its tight as can be on the pulleys. I have no clue how to remove this and any other advice on this do-it-yourself project would be much appreciated. Thanks: Replacing a water pump when you don't even know if you're talking about the serpentine belt or not, is not a DIY job.

Q: I'm doing a DCP project which is at its concept design stage.In order to estimate the chilled water pump size and ratings roughly, could anybody give me some tips on the average/normal chilled water pump heads for a typical 10000 TR DCP. The length of the longest loop could be around 600 m single run.: to boot to the availability and go back line, if there are different factors in the equipment at the same time with administration valves and warmth exchangers, their rigidity drop also desires to be protected.

Q: new switch and new tank: Sounds like a bladder tank issue. The bladder gets potential energy when the pump fills the tank. When you open a faucet for water, the potential energy stored in the bladder will push the water out of the tank without the need of the pump coming on until the tank is almost empty. You should be able to rock the tank when the pump first comes on to see if it is light weight, as it would be when almost empty. If not then there's your problem. When the pump ends its cycle is when the tank will be at its heaviest. Again: The tank should be full when the pump is not running and almost empty just before the pump comes on. The water pressure would behave as you describe if the bladder tank is not functioning properly.

Q: My Camry is overheating and I am assuming it is the water pump. I already changed the thermostat and that was no help. When I turn the heater on to cool off the engine, it blows cold air or the temp of the air outside most of the time and seldomly hot air. I bought a water pump, but I am not sure if this is something I can do?: sure and no. Toyotas have in no way been super automobiles, yet for some reason have carried out the acceptance that they are reliable. right this is a few information you're able to not comprehend approximately that 1997 Camry you listed. it particularly is a wreck-down engine. quite, it has a scheduled wreck-down era of 60,000 miles. it is how long you are able to pass formerly changing the timing belt, or the finished engine breaks while the timing belt does. particular, sellers and such will call it ordinary upkeep, yet while something expenses you $800 or with the objective to repair, is that quite upkeep? 2nd, the final twenty years or so of Toyotas have had terrible sludge problems. quite they're poorly made engines that permit some hydrocarbons (gas debris) into the oiling device, alongside with some exhaust and different airborne dirt and airborne dirt and dirt and debris, which creates sludge, that is a sticky, goopy substance. while it coats the shifting areas, it will strengthen friction, will strengthen positioned on, and decreases the existence of the engine. It additionally reduces capability and reaction. cleansing it out would properly be costly, because it often demands disassembling the engine (or not less than, removing the valve covers and oil pan). Now, with that stated, any motor vehicle, if appropriate maintained, will final an extremely long term. There are Sixties-70s Dodges that have over a million million miles on them with out plenty as a rebuild, or perhaps a pair over 2 million. comparable is going for Volvos. All they have finished are everyday music-ups, valve variations, oil variations.

Q: 1997 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2 engine. In the past 2 days I noticed that my temp gauge was reading a little higher than usual but not in the danger range. I checked and nedded to add coolant. Last night it started making a chattering or maybe klunking sound. As far as I could tell it was coming from the water pump but it stopped before I could get out of the car and look to see. Now the coolant is low again. Are these signs of the water pump being bad or could it be something else?: It is possible your water pump is worn out, yes...but it could be other things too. I would change the thermostat first, being a much lower cost. If the thermostat is sticking shut, or not opening right at all, it can prevent the coolant from circulating right. That lets the whole engine heat up and coolant boil. That may be the sound you hear, normally called a water hammer... If you take it to the shop, which you should do now, ask them to check the thermostat and water pump, to be certain of the problem... I hope it is just the thermostat that is causing this, but check it good...

Q: I have oil all over my water pump. I investigated when I saw a few drops of oil in the garage that showed up every few days. I then saw a drop of clean radiator fluid. Does oil come near or through the water pump? I have a 96 nissan maxima if that helps.: STUPID ANSWERS, these answers sound like ****, something a rip off shop would say. 1- buy engine degreaser, and go to the car wash or in the drive if you want to. 2- let the car warm ou, then turn it off and spray the degreaser every where theres oil and dirt. 3- Let stand about 10mins 4- turn the engine back one and use the pressured water (CAR WASH) to wash off the cleaner. You might have to repeat the soaking a few times depending on how long its been leaking. 5- once clean, you can either just let it idle in the drive way or go drive around alittle to see if you can get the oil leak to start again to see where its coming from. Once you find the leak either fix it or just take it to a respectable shop and get a quote for the repair. Dont start assuming that theres a huge problem. It sounds like its just the valve covers, but theres afew possible things that could leak on it. Do this and it will help you find any possible leaks.

Q: took car to meachanic on a friday drove home . mecahnic put in timing belt engine coolant water pump car on sunday leaking alot of green fluid and smoke coming from hood: WHATcountry are you FROM?? BAD use of english. They used WRONG type coolant and CHEAP parts and CHEAP gaskets! most cars do NOT USE GREEN COOLANTS any more. WHAT KIND OF CAR IS THIS! you MUST use ONLY the water pump and coolant from your DEALERSHIP! all other ones are a RIP OFF and your engine will FAIL earlier! DRIVE over ANY OIL CHANGE pit where they can SEE where your leak is COMING FROM! you MIGHT have to get this WHOLE JOB done again! and you MIGHT even have ENGINE DAMAGE in there by now! SORRY!!!

Q: As a fact; I must remove the timing belt in order to remove both camshaft sprockets,then the metal timing belt cover which cover partially the water pump.My main question: Do I have to lift the engine and remove the two water pump studs- Which normally holding the right engine mounting.And where I can rent ,or buy a camshaft locking tool with low price: Yes, I have done at least 100 of these water pumps. You are correct, remove the timing belt, cam gears and rear cover is the easiest route. I have done them without removing the rear metal shield all the way, and only removing the front cam gear as well. You can remove the front cam gear, and all 6 bolts to the rear shield and shift the cover enough to get the pump out from behind the cover. You shouldn't need to remove the water pump studs, but if you do get a set of stud removers. I bought a set from snap on for around $50 or so years ago. Sears also sells a set. You don't need a cam locking tool. You can make one out of a bar with two bolts through it to stop cam from rotating while you loosen the 17mm nut on the cam gear. I usually just use an impact gun on the bolt, and no tool is needed to hold it. Remember, the 1MZ-FE engine is an interference engine, and the timing belt must be aligned perfectly or the pistons WILL hit valves and engine will self destruct. If you are near ILlinois I can help with repairs if needed.

Q: I would like a website that has pictures but any info would be helpful...: Even if you put the auxiliary water pump on its still going to leak. The water will still circulate through it. All you need to do is buy a gasket and some silicone, spend a total of $50 and fix it.

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