• CS/CST Wet/dry Running Vertical Pump System 1
CS/CST Wet/dry Running Vertical Pump

CS/CST Wet/dry Running Vertical Pump

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Application: 1. Chemical or water recirculation
2. Fume scrubbers/waste treatment
3. Plating solutions
4. Wet processing
5. Cleaning solutions
6. Acids

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Feature: 1. CPVC, PVDF or polypropylene construction.
2. Max. fluid temperature:
FRPP/CPVC 167o F(75oC) PVDF 194o F(90oC).
3. High efficiency-low operating cost, leak free operation and easy maintenance.
4. Excellent chemical resistance.
5. Continuous chemical duty TEFC motors with oversized bearings in motor casing.
6. Vertical pumps can run dry without damage to vapor seal.
7. Thick reinforced ribbing in all molded parts.
8. Simplinity of design makes these pumps easy to service and operate.
9. Keyed impeller prevent damage if pumps run in reverse on all three phase motors.
10. CS--Non-metallic solution contact.

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CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS
1. In-tank use only.
2. NO seals or bearings in pump head to wear out.
3. CS--Motor vapor seal.
CS--120Vcord with ground.
CS--Vented pump base on 1/4 to 1/3 HP.
CST--Vented pump base.
4. The single vapor seal is opened by centrifugal force when pump is operating, this eliminates friction and seal wear. The seal closes back up when the pump shuts down to prevent vapor or liquid from reaching the motor face or bearings.
5. All 3 phase pumps from Super have a keyed impeller shaft that eliminates the possibility of damage to the impeller, housing or vapor seal if the power is reversed. The impeller will not fall off.
6. Vented vapor seal cover with the seal above safely disperse acid and alkaline vapor away from the shaft and motor bearings.
7. For in-tank applications, the vent hole must be open for back-flow to run through when pump shut down.
8. This elbow-union can be connected to the outlet for easy plumbing. CPVC, FRPP, PVDF materials are available.
9. Two O-rings secure the front cover tightly and never fall off.
10. C-clip easy to mount and unmount, secure the front cover.
 
 

Q:Pump performance parameters have three sets of data, how to understand the flow, lift, flow speed
Mainly expressed the ability of the pump, mainly as a basis for selecting the pump users.Lift represents the performance of the pump to boost water pressure. Such as the pump head H=38 meters, that the pump outlet pressure normal to 0.38MPa.The flow rate represents the water supply capacity of the pump. Such as 100 m3/h. The general flow pump design, and the corresponding flow, little significance.
Q:1978 Ranchero 500. Pumps leaking like crazy. I have a belt to remove, which i assume is the serpentine belt? Its tight as can be on the pulleys. I have no clue how to remove this and any other advice on this do-it-yourself project would be much appreciated. Thanks
Replacing a water pump when you don't even know if you're talking about the serpentine belt or not, is not a DIY job.
Q:93 Cutless Sierra FWD
For a 2.2 4 cylinder read below: Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system. Remove serpentine drive belt, then the alternator and bracket. Remove water pump pulley attaching bolts, then remove the pulley, Fig. 20. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then the water pump. Reverse procedure to install. For a 3.3 6 cylinder read below: Disconnect battery ground cable. Drain cooling system, then remove serpentine drive belt. Remove lower radiator hose and heater hose at pump. Remove water pump pulley attaching bolts. Long bolt is removed through access hole located in the body side rail. Remove water pump pulley. Remove water pump attaching bolts, then the water pump, Fig. 15. Reverse procedure to install, torquing bolts to specifications Hope this was helpful!
Q:My 93 Ford t-bird over heats and i really don't know what could be the problem, the radiator is working fine, and also the fan and the thermostat, i don't think is a head gasket because the oil looks alright with no contamination and there is no steam coming from the exhaust im beginning to suspect the water pump but the weep hole is not leaking. So does a water pump MUST leak from the weep hole if it is bad, or it could be bad and not leak? thanks in advance...
the water pump might be bad, it won't let the coolant to circulate. or you might have an air pocket in the coolant, that is the great possibility, you need to bled out that air. check the auto manual first before you start that service, all cars are different setup. and to check the water pump if it works, let it run and hold the upper coolant hose for few minutes and let someone to help you to watch the gage if its going to the hot zone, the hose you just holding should get hot even if there is air pocket. then you will know the pump is working. check the botom hose also,to check if the coolant circulate . If it wont get hot the botm hose , you might have a restriction in the engine block. checked also the fan clutch if you have one. Jesus is good . only God is good.
Q:noise when i acclerate you cant hear it as much because of engine noise but when its at idle the squealing noise is somewhat loud does anyone know what it could be ? its not the water pump because i bought it new and im not overheating and the belts arent too tight either i have already checked them
Take the fan belt off and spin the water pump by hand. If it's dead silent make sure the new water-pump outer flange is holding the pulley directly over the pulley's on the crankshaft. If they aren't in perfect alignment or you hear noise tear the pump off and take it back. The outer pulley flange or noisy impeller makes it a candidate for a new pump. Why not get your money back from the whining pump and order a Stewart or Moroso aluminum racing pump for a few bucks more.
Q:coolant coming out around a tube that supplies the heater core (told its the water pump just don't see how)
The supply and return heater hoses have an O ring below the clamp that holds them in place directly off the casting above and to the left of the water-pump. Now please listen to this: The actual aluminum water-pump is secured buy small metric hex nuts behind the water-pump pulley. Your water-pump may have a leaking gasket where it bolts to an aluminum distribution housing. Wish I could actually see the leak! Any more specific questions don't be afraid to E-mail.
Q:I drive a 99vw jetta and the coolant was leaking from it i took it to a repair shop they said the water pump was bad and that the seals on the water pump where bad that was defiantly where the coolant was leaking from. I replaced the water pump and drove my car this weekend no troubles, then this afternoon my coolant light came on and i put coolant in my car and it just started trickling out i called the repair shop they said it may just be a loose hose or clamp, is this true or am i looking at something worse than the water pump that has to be replaced?? or would that issue have already came up when they where looking for where the leak was coming from before it was repaired? please help
The pump may have indeed been bad. Did the shop put on the new pump or did you do it yourself? If it was done by the shop, take it back and make them fix it correctly. You have already paid them for the work. If you did it yourself, it should be fairly easy to spot where the leak is coming from. It is also rare but possible that the pump you put on was bad out of the box from the parts store. Not likely...but slim possibility. Hopefully it is just a loose clamp or hose.
Q:water pump and thermostat were replaced 18 months ago motors done about 20 hrs since replacement have checked and there are no blockagers in water tube what could be the problem thanks
Sounds to me like your impeller is shot. Just because the water pump was replaced, chances are the impeller wasn't.
Q:Hey I need to pump water from a river and use be able to use it through a hose and also make the hose have pressure. I was thinking pump the water into a barrel and into a hose or something from there? Anyone know anything about if this would work? What would I need? thanks
buy a submersible water pump. they are the best and longest runing with high pressure. also they are portable and u can take out any time. they are applicable in sea , rivers, very deep pumping etc. but remember to wrap it with a light and silky cloth to prevent the sand going in to it before use in sea and rivers. u dont need a barrel or tank. As they re not heating,they can work continuously even for a years.u can operate from a distance, much pressure than any centrigugal pump. hope it heps. good luck.........
Q:I have a 2000 Dodge Stratus and recently had the coolant drained (not quot;flushedquot;, as the mechanic wanted to charge $125 extra for that). Prior to that time I never had a single coolant leak, but since then, I've had the coolant leak out slowly over about a 2 week period of normal stop go traffic. Now the mechanic is saying the water pump is leaking, and that's going to be another $600+ more to fix (over 5 hrs of labor), which I really don't have the money for right now.So two questions.. 1) what could've happened to cause the water pump to suddenly start leaking only after the coolant was drained, when it was fine before that? and 2) should I try using a quot;Radiator Stop Leakproduct? I know people say they can plug up the whole radiator, but if that were the case 100% of the time, you'd think these products would've been made illegal a long time ago.SO realistically what are the chances of it doing more harm than good? I still plan on getting the water pump replaced, it'll just have to be awhile.
No that crap plugs other little water ways that are needed to cool your engine. Things get old and it don't take much for them to start leaking. Changing this is not that difficult I would check out a couple more shops before thinking that would be the cost. Stay away from the dealers they charge the most.

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