CG Self-priming Chemical Pump

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Application: Chemical or water recirculation
Plating solutions including electroplating
Wastewater treatment

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Feature: 1. CPVC, PVDF, or FRPP construction.
2. Max. fluid temperature:
CPVC 75oC (167oF)/FRPP80oC (176oF)/PVDF 90oC (194oF).
3. High efficiency - low operation cost, leak-free operation and easy maintenance.
4. Excellent chemical resistance.
5. Independent thrust bearings for maximum reliability.
6. Fluid specific gravity up to 1.8.
7. Cycling liquid cools the seal and prevents it from overheating while dry-running.

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CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS
1. The motor shaft extension is coupled to a standard motor and is made of 316SS, a Teflon sleeve is installed over the shaft, there is no solution contact between the shaft assembly and the chemicals or solution being pumped.
2. The seal is cooled by the solution in the pump which running and by the design of the pump housing the mechanical seal is always submerged in solution so crystals cannot be formed around the seal when the pump is turned off.
3. CG/CK series, with the unique seal assembly, is easy to disassemble and replace. The fixed seal socket can be made of high temperature-resistant plastic PPS and is capable of operating up to 130oC while dry running. The remained liquid inside the pump head runs through the Teflon hose and cools the seal while dry running.
4. The unique Teflon bellows design with various seals such as Ceramic, Carbon, SIC and Hastelloy-C Spring ensure excellent durability in corrosion resistance. Fixed-seal & rotational-seal are made of various materials, SIC, Carbon, Ceramic and can withstand various chemicals.
5. Self-priming series, designed with self-priming cover excellent self-priming performance up to 20 ft. (3" in/outlet models cannot do self-priming well.)
6. Symmetrical body structure eliminates leakage due to deforming caused by injection molding.
7. The pump connections are standard 11/2", 2" or 3" flange connections depending on model and size.

Q: i need help on how to replace a water pump oil seal in a 2001 rm80...i looked everywhere...if you can get a video or detailed info that be great, thanks: Drain coolant - #13 drain bolt Remove hose from water pump cover Remove water pump cover - #12 Drain oil Remove R side cover - #1 Remove circlip - #23 Remove water pump shaft - #19 Pull out water pump seal - #20 Note the direction the seal is installed Tap in new seal This entire procedure is explained in detail in your service manual.

Q: Hi, I own a 2004 chev. venture and the water pump is getting noisy (most likely the bearings) I priced a refurbished one online at $18 and am wandering if this is a task I could handle myself, or if I'd most likely screw it up: Te ASE will HUNT YOU DOWN, they are not an organization to trifle with! Seriously, it all depends on your degree of mechanical ability, and the info source you will use to do the job. If you go out and purchase a repair manual for your vehicle, then I would say yes, you can do that job yourself.

Q: I have a 2004 Toyota Sienna and it has 80k+ miles on it. I guess it is the drive belt that is making the noise and I decide to have it changed. I can have the timing belt changed too because it is due at 90k miles. The dealer guy told me that I should also have the water pump changed too because of 2 reasons:1. the new timing belt will cause pressure to the old water pump. If not changed, it will leak in weeks.2. it is cheaper to do it altogether.Without changing the water pump, it would cost about $300.All would cost $1000+.My friend who also has a Sienna that has more miles on it, told me that he did not have to change the water pump.Your advice about the water pump is?: Change the the timing belt if it breaks you can bend a valve the smaller import engine have what they call a zero (0) tolerance.For the water pump it runs off of the timing belt so since your timing belt is already off you should change the water pump.Another words you will need to tear the timing belt back out in order to change the water pump not if but when it goes out.The dealer price is not bad for a dealer you might be able to save a little more if you shop around GOOD LUCK

Q: i have a 97 mercury mountaineer and i recently got the thermostat changed in it. after doing so we noticed that the car was leaking antifreeze. we checked to make sure everything was tight and there was no cracks and my uncle said he thinks its the water pump how can i tell: look at the water pump. do you see coolant? if everything is covered in coolant, clean it off with brake clean, then run it and look around the water pump again. It probably is the thermostat housing though. seeing as how they took that off recently. so look there too.

Q: I have a Miniworks EX Water filter with a ceramic filtering element. It has been used a few times without problem, but I am wondering at what point should I replace my ceramic filter? The replacements are $40 and I can't find any information regarding replacement times--only cleaning information. Does this filter need to be replaced often?I've always pumped from a clear river way up in the mountains and the flow is decent.: Could be months yet if you use good water. A filter is good for at least a thousand liters if you're careful with it. So long as the flow is good keep going. Mine is two years old, no problems. I put sterilizer through it every so often. Simple stuff, just buy Camden tablets or powder from a home wine making store or a pharmacist. Make up the solution, pump it through the filter and leave it for an hour then put tap water through it if you want. The Camden tablets are used to stop fermentation in wines and beers and to sterilize the bottles before filling. It isn't rinsed out. Just fill the bottles with the solution, empty them and fill them them with wine or beer. You drink it...it breaks down to harmless sodium sulfate and releases sulfa dioxide which does the sterilizing. Otherwise you can use ordinary household bleach if it's pure bleach with no perfumes or other bits added. A few drops in a pint of water and put it through the unit just as though you are using it normally. Leave it for an hour then run tap water through it. You can use that pure bleach for sterilizing drinking water too but it's best for hot drinks, juice concentrates, and for cooking to mask the chlorine taste. Two drops per liter of water is enough, and leave it for an hour before using. I've used both methods for over forty years of wild camping on five continents, a long malaria field survey in Malaysia, in deserts and forests and on mountains. Never a problem. We used both methods in the Army too for 500 gallon water trucks with barium sulfate filters. Good for 10 000 gallons before changing the barium sulfate. I was the medic doing lab tests on it. Have a good hike.

Q: How long should it take a mechanic to replace a water pump on a 96 dodge intrepid ES with a 3.5L engine? I was given a estimate of 6 hours does it really take that long? at 100.00 a hour I'm not sure my car is worth fixing: Well I have a 97 and the water pump was 80.00 installed by me. It has the 3.3 V6, very simple to do oil changes spark plugs air filter It is a very well built car. Replacing the timing belt would be a very stupid idea - that guy knows nothing about cars at all. As long as you stay away from the 2.7 litre engine you will be fine. Mine is now at 165000 miles original engine/trans I just replaced the front wheel bearings and struts. Totalling 275.00 - I installed. Then 40.00 for the alignment.

Q: how to change a water pump on a 99 ford tauras?: well u first losen the bolt, remove that stuff, and put another water pump on =?

Q: We have a 92 cadillac deville, my husband can replace the water pump he justs need to know if you have to jack the motor a little. Please help before our car blows up!!: I have done them on the 4.9's. I dont remember having to jack up the motor for any reason. I do remember there are like 20 bolts that hold it on and there is not a heck of a lot of room to get at them. I think the reason someone mentioned jacking up the motor is some of the GM engines like the 3.1 or 3.3? to change the belt you need to take apart one of the motor mounts. Since the mounts hold the engine in you need to support the engine when you remove them. I remember the 4.9 being more like the 3800 in that its mounts go to the front by the radiator so they wont be in the way of the belt.

Q: i want to change the water pump on my on a 70 hp (70C) nissan outboard motor and i never pulled a lower unit, not sure what to expect thanks for any help: hi you need to get the workshop manual for your motor. You can go to the library I am sure they will have one. The basics though... make sure you have a lower unit gaskey set, a full water pump rebuild kit and the correct impellor. You need the manual so that you can locate the correct bolts to loosen and the procedure for disconecting the gear shifting mechanism. With the manual its an easy job. without.. its kind of pot luck if you have never done it before. I have changed impellors and water pumps on many different boat motors and i have aways used the manuals. Even now I would still use the manual as a reference to change the impellor and water pump housing in my Johnson even though i have done it before. The manual will probily cost about $25 but it will save you hundreds in the long run as you will be able to trouble shoot other problems.

Q: We still have water, but it keeps constantly running, and won't stop. The pump itself got warm/hot, and we're afraid that it's going to get ruined or blow up or something. We turned it off for about 30 minutes, then back on to bottle up some water. It's the middle of a snowstorm, and a horrible time for a water pump to stop working, help please!! Any suggestions and fixes, please let me know. Thanks!!! :): You did not say if you had a submersible well pump or water jet. I am assuming that if you can feel the pump building heat it is of the jet variety. If the pump keeps running it is because the pressure switch is bad or because there is not enough water coming from the well to allow the pump to build shut off pressure. Try manually shutting off the pump for several hours and then switch it back on. If it shuts off on its own then you have a low water supply problem and may need a deeper well. If it does not shut off and you have good water pressure, then shut off the pump and turn off the electrical breaker and remove the pressure switch by disconnecting the wires and screwing the pressure switch off. Inspect the small water line to the switch for blockage from sediment or corrosion. If it is blocked you may get lucky and only have to clear out the line and screw things back together. If you are not lucky, replace the water shut off switch with a new one and you should be good to go. If you still do not have water, the intake screen to the pump could be plugged up and will have to be cleaned.which involves pulling the pipe from the well.

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