Ceramic Pickup Spare Part Brake Pad WVA29246
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
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Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
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Features:
1.100% Asbestos-Free Formulation.
2.Deliver High Stopping Power, Reliability And Safety.
3.Optimize The Performance Of Vehicle's Braking System.
4.Offer Extended Life And Minimum Disc wear,Noise-Free ,Least Dusty.
5.High Quality Carbon Steel And/Or Cast Iron Backing Plates For Excellent Bonding
With The Friction Material.
6.Stylish Packaging For Excellent Emphasis Of The Sales Value
Specifications:
| Material | Non-Asbestos |
| Certification | ISO9001 TS16949 |
| car | Bus&Truck |
| MOQ | 50 sets |
| Delivery | 35-45 days |
| port | Ningbo/Shanghai |
| packings | one set in one packing box with our brand or yours |
- Q: I'm wondering if it's better to brake when slowing or to downshift and then brake? When I bought my first motorcycle I was told that I should always downshift then start braking as it was better for the bike. I didn't think about it then but these days I have been wondering. I am sure that downshifting saves on brake pads but is it harder on the engine?
- It depends. When you're coming to a stop, brakes are better because they're easier to control. But you have to shift down anyway because you're going to want to start out again in first. So if you have room, if you have a ways to go to get to the stop sign, you can let the clutch out in some of the gears as you shift down and that will help slow you down. On a curvy road you often want to downshift a gear, maybe two, to go around a curve. If you downshift and then let out the clutch, that helps slow you down, and then you're in the lower gear to accelerate smoothly out of the curve. If you're going down a long grade, of course you downshift to keep from having to 'drag' your brakes, which heats them up and makes them fade, plus it wears them out. Its not harder on the engine, though it does cause wear on the clutch, especially if you do it clumsily.
- Q: Hey there,I want to get my CBT soon, and I have a bike in mind to buy (Honda NSR 125) but I‘m slightly worried. How different is riding a motorcycle to a push bike and can you guys give me any pointers to be aware when riding a motorcycle? Thanks James
- The basic mechanics of riding a motorcycle are the same as riding a push-bike, but the machine is much heavier and you will have to get used to using the controls which are a little different (shifting is typically one hand/foot while braking is the other) and using the engine for power. The NSR 125 is a good choice to start, plenty juicy (it's a 2-stroke) without being too powerful or heavy for a beginner. Get started in a vacant car park working on starting, stopping, shifting, low speed; you'll be comfortable inside the hour I'm sure.
- Q: I am 39 years old, 5‘ 11 and 200ish pounds and looking to buy my first motorcycle. I want a cruiser and have narrowed it down to the Suzuki c50, Yamaha Bolt, or Kawasaki Vulcan 900. Any recommendations for one over the other or am I dealing with a personal preference? The C50 was my first choice, but I am thinking the Vulcan might be the better choice due to front and rear disc brakes. Recommendations?
- complicated factor. query onto yahoo. that will can help!
- Q: I am trying to bleed my brakes, and I need to add fluid. My fluid is yellow, while the fluid already in the master cylinder/caliper is reddish.Does it matter if it is yellow? (The brake fluid is about 15 months old, and has been open for the same time. It is 'P' yellow)Is it yellow because it is a different brand, or does brake fluid change colors after it has come into contact with oxygen?It is DOT 4.
- New brake fluid is CLEAR. Not yellow, not yellow-ish, and definitely not red. It's a good thing you're changing it. Moisture is the enemy of brake fluid, and you should only use a FRESH, unopened bottle every time. An opened bottle will attract moisture, even with the cap on, and brake fluid turns yellow when it's going south. Get some new fluid. Also keep in mind that DOT 4 and DOT 5 are NOT interchangeable. DOT 5 is pure silicon fluid, and will not work in a brake system designed for DOT 3 or 4.
- Q: I really hate engine braking because I lose a lot of speed, and it just sounds awful and it drags so much it makes me think I'm doing something wrong..so I was wondering can it be avoided? I've heard that if you rev match u can avoid it, true false?also, when shifting down what are the correct speeds for each gear on a regular 600 sportbike? I know they'r all diff, I'm just asking what are YOUR speeds.
- Just coming from a racer and street rider: Yes, matching the engine's rpm with the clutch in so when the clutch is out in the next gear lower will help reduce the drag significantly. It will smooth it out. Most people call this blipping the throttle on downshifts. Also try waiting another second or two, and let the RPM drop more. Downshifting into 5000 rpm is going to be more violent than downshifting to 2500 RPM. As for blipping the throttle on upshifts: No. On a 600 the clutch and shifting motion is so fast anyways this isn't necessary, also, clutch-less upshifting won't allow for this if you're racing or riding aggressively.
- Q: I‘m currently on a deployment, and I‘m trying to learn about how Motorcycles work while I have down time.I don‘t know anything about them, but I‘ve always loved riding on them growing up, and I‘ve had a little practice driving my Dads. Anyways, he found a deal for me through a friend and I figured if he thought it was a good deal (and doing a little research it seemed to be), so I bought it. I‘d like to read up before I get home so I know how to take care of it.I personally don‘t know much about cars other then the basics, changing tires, oil and filters ect. When I crashed it I got a lot of hands on expiernce fixing it myself, with guidence from online research and phonecalls to my Dad. But I don‘t even know how to change the oil of a bike haha, or when it would be due. So any info, tips, advice would be helpful.What I have is a 2006 Yamaha 650 V Star, if that has any significants.
- The first thing for you to do is take a motorcycle safety course.With this course you will have basic understanding of what a m/c is all about BALANCE plus eye hand coordination and training from someone who knows how to teach this plus and this the best part you will be learning on a small bike that does not belong to you and it's ok to drop,scratch and beat up while you learn the skill needed to operate safely. Also if you have done oil and filter change on cars you can do the same on m/c.You can find an owners manual online or from Yamaha this will show you what you will need to know but if you cannot find one all you really need to do is change the oil and filter the oil plug is at the bottom of the engine which is a bolt head metric size remove and clean the tip remove the filter and just replace,check tire pressure 36 psi front and rear and wear check between the tread and if you see cracks replace it as this very important.Make sure all the lights are working,head light and rear brake light.Of course when the bike is inspected the shop will check all of this for a small fee.I hope this helps.Thank You for you service while you are on deployment.
- Q: I hava a 2006 Susuki C50 Boulevard and it keeps shutting off while I am braking or down shifting. It also will not stay cranked just idleing. Anyone know why and how I can fix it?
- It doesn't have anything to do with braking or shifting. It just shuts down whenever you let off the gas. It could be idle adjustment, clogged idle jets, out of sync carbs, a vacuum leak or a worn engine.
- Q: i haven‘t been able to get the front brake working right. The caliper won‘t release all the way which causes the brake to drag. So far I have put a new caliper on and changed the brake fluid and bleed it but that still didn‘t solve the problem. If you could give me any input at all I would really appreciate it.
- If a brand new caliper didn’t solve it then the problem is more than likely with the disc or the mounting on the fork legs. Seems an expensive way of going about it though, a full strip and service of the old caliper, replacing the o-rings, bleed nipple and a thorough flush with new clean brake fluid would probably give the same result as a new one.
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Ceramic Pickup Spare Part Brake Pad WVA29246
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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