• Non-asbestos/Ceramic Bus&Truck Brake Pads Auto parts System 1
  • Non-asbestos/Ceramic Bus&Truck Brake Pads Auto parts System 2
Non-asbestos/Ceramic Bus&Truck Brake Pads Auto parts

Non-asbestos/Ceramic Bus&Truck Brake Pads Auto parts

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Features:

1.100% Asbestos-Free Formulation.
2.Deliver High Stopping Power, Reliability And Safety.
3.Optimize The Performance Of Vehicle's Braking System.
4.Offer Extended Life And Minimum Disc wear,Noise-Free ,Least Dusty.
5.High Quality Carbon Steel And/Or Cast Iron Backing Plates For Excellent  Bonding

With The Friction Material.
6.Stylish Packaging For Excellent Emphasis Of The Sales Value  

 

Specifications:

 

MaterialNon-Asbestos
CertificationISO9001 TS16949
carBus&Truck
MOQ50 sets
Delivery35-45 days
portNingbo/Shanghai
packingsone set in one packing box with our brand or yours

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: I‘m working on plans for an electric motorcycle conversion. I‘d like to do a Continuously Variable Transmission in order to maximize battery power and speed. The bike is shaft-driven, which makes it particularly difficult to change gear ratios in any direct drive manner, but also makes it good for a CVT. However, I‘m wondering what the effect of a CVT is on regenerative braking? More effective? Less effective? No effect? Also, any ideas for locating/salvaging and appropriate CVT? The ones I‘m familiar with are from 90‘s Honda Civics, and I‘m not sure it‘s feasible to try to adapt. Thanks!
This was how the Urba-Electric operated back in the 70's. This was a car designed and built for the February 1977 issue of Mechanix Illustrated. At the time, it was an electric car capable of 60 mph with a 60 mile range that could be built for less than $1,500. They had three voltage levels that were selected by push buttons. Stepping on the accelerator switched on the electric motor to the voltage level selected and operated a stepper motor that adjusted the gear ratio of the CVT. The effect was that the electic motor operated at one speed determined by the three push buttons and the car speed was controlled by the accelerator pedal. Should the driver ease up on the accelerator, the momentum of the car would run the DC motor at a speed higher than that determined by the voltage level selection hence charging the batteries (regenerative braking which was a novel concept back then). The Electromatic belt driven CVT used by the Urba-Electric was one used with small industrial machines and is no longer availble but similar belt driven CVT's still exist today. ATV's often have CVT's. There was a follow on project in 1977 called the Urba-Trike.
Q: a high performance road bike with disc brakes appeals to me, a bike I would not race and would put in a couple hundred miles a week witham I insane?
This isn't Pimp my ride.
Q: I'm 16 almost 17 years old. Looking to buy a bike so i can drive it to school and work. This would be my 1st bike. Many people told me get a ninja 250 and there nice bikes but can they handle the highway? I would be going 60-70 mph. Would i be shaking around if wind its me? Someone said a suzuki katana.? Looking to spend $3500 but mainly wanna spend under $2500 on a used motorcycle. I weight 150lbs and Im 5-9. Please tell me reason for what your saying
There are several factors to consider when you are a new rider looking to purchase your first motorcycle: 1) Engine size Motorcycles are like ladders - you want to take things one step at a time. A new rider regardless of their previous experience with motor vehicles (dirt bike, snow mobile, atv, etc) should keep their first bike's engine size under 650 cc's and ideally 500 or less. A motorcycle's throttle and brakes are very sensitive. You need to master operating the controls as well as your balance, decision making skills, etc first before upgrading your bike's power. Sure you may find a 250 boring after a few months - but have you truly mastered it? 2) Cost Motorcycle riding cost a fair bit of coin. Not only do you have to consider the cost of the bike itself but also your gear and insurance. You mentioned you are nearly 17. I will save you the shock when you are on the phone with your insurance agent - until you are 25 you are going to be paying through the nose for insurance (your yearly fees will most likely be more than the cost of your bike). If you have the money - great. Make sure to factor that into your budget. Consider it part of the bike's cost. Same goes for your riding gear (helmet, jacket, gloves, pants, boots). 3) Bike style This is a personal preference. Although you will find a lot of people (myself included) recommending the ninja 250 as the prefect beginner bike - you may not want a sports bike, you may like cruisers instead. If you live in a rural area - a dirt bike may be more suitable to your riding style. Try several types of bikes (if you can muster a test drive out of the owner). Sit on them in the show room - see what's comfortable for you. 1) engine size under 500cc 2) look at the total cost of the bike (bike, insurance, gear, maintenance) 3) find a style that suits you 3) Good luck and safe riding
Q: I am trying to get my mom convinced that I will be a much safer driver on a motorcycle than a car. I have been doing research and teens get into more accidents in cars than on bikes by percentages. The reason for it is because the teens on motorcycles get there senses heightened and teens in cars get careless. The teens in cars also can get distracted by the radio and stop paying attention to the road and cyclists have nothing else to do but look around them at the cars they are passing/being passed by. What is your opinion, 18- get in more accidents on bikes than cars. also want opinion: would you agree with me that I should get a motorcycle as well as a truck so the bike isnt my main means of transportation?
Cars are the way to go for safety. From the source, ?Motorcycles are the most dangerous type of motor vehicle to drive. These vehicles are involved in fatal crashes at a rate of 35.0 per 100 million miles of travel, compared with a rate of 1.7 per 100 million miles of travel for passenger cars. ?Motorcyclists were 35 times more likely than passenger car occupants to die in a crash in 2006, per vehicle mile traveled, and 8 times more likely to be injured. ?Although motorcycles account for only 2% of vehicles on the road, they make up more than 10% of all crashes. Percentage-wise, you are 3500% more likely to die on a motorcycle. I lost a friend two years ago in a motorcycle accident - a passing car came back over too soon and knocked his front wheel out from under him, sending Ben head-first into rocks. In a car he would only have been bruised a bit.
Q: Regular parts suppliers have things like replacement headlight bulbs. I need a source for the complete motorcycle headlamp assembly that I can utilize in my design. I also need to be able to buy in bulk to sell multiple units.Items needed: headlight assembly, turn signals, turn signal switch, brake light assembly, electric brake light switch (turning brake light on as brake handle is depressed, not hydraulic).I‘m looking for modern styled parts that I can incorporate into custom molded composite fairings.Thank you for your answers!
Jeff, For your prototype vehicle, just use parts from a motorcycle wrecking yard. You'll save money and not be out as much in the long run. Some of the current touring fairings are about as aerodynamic as you can get If you plan to run two front wheels, a hydraulic braking system will be lighter and easier to build, not to mention you can incorporate all brakes into a single hydraulic foot operated unit. Be sure to use double flares on steel lines for safety.
Q: is a scooter as dangerous as a motorcycle?and i dont want any answers saying that a motorcycle/scooter isnt dangerousits the person on it thats makes it dangerouswhat i want is statistics on how many people get hurt or die on a scooter Vs. people on a motorcycle
Scooter Vs Motorcycle Safety
Q: Question is straight forward, but if you want a reference on which to base your answer, I‘ll explain. If not, answer away :)As in: To handle. To get up to speed. Clutch control. And other ways,
I don't think it qualify's as making it easier to ride but another benefit of a big bike is that the extra weight does seem to plant the bike more solidly to the road. Making it maintain traction a lil better on slightly slick pavement areas like the painted lines from a crosswalk or moist areas, however don't expect it to help much at all in slicker areas like oil spills or ice patches
Q: I really don‘t want to drop my motorcycle at a stop sign, or a red light. what is the most correct way to brake and stop. (things like body position, hand, feet) , whenever i come to a stop i usally have my right foot on the peg and left foot is just dragging along. i come to a wobbling stop, but i don‘t know any other way to do it.
Never heard of twin disk brakes on the rear! One side holds the drive, the other the brake. Might work on a shaft or belt drive but is probably pointless as over braking the rear would only lock the wheel as the weight is transferred to the front.
Q: Any females advice for learning to ride a motorcycle?
do not purchase a bike before taken the MSF Basic Rider Course. Take the class first and make sure its something you really want to do. DO NOT do it for anyone but yourself. I would rather spend $250 for the course before $15,000 for a new bike, that you might find you don't want. I know someone who's husband bought her a new Harley and neither knew how to ride. Since she has the bike she is doing what ever she can to learn. She has paid for the Basic Rider Course twice (still hasn't passed), plus spending $75 p/hr for private lessons. So far she has spend $950 just to try and ride this bike that she doesnt know if she wants or not.

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