Brake pad WVA29108 Heavy truck

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Brake pad WVA29108 Heavy truck

Q: I have a 2005 GSXR 600 and the brake lever is really loose, meaning that it‘s really easy to pull in and there isn‘t much resistance; only recently has this happened. How would you go about fixing this problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!: There's a dial on the lever. Usually 1 - 4 Push the lever forward and turn the dial.

Q: it‘s for a physics presentation about the impulse eqaution related to professional motorcycle racing:[ F(?t) m(Vf – Vi)] weight of motorcycle: 148kgweight of rider: 63kgVi:320km/hVf:105km/hspace of braking:338metersTime of braking:6.4secwith the impulse equation will i calculate the forces on the rider or the bike?do i have to solve for F to get the forces i need to show?do these forces come out to be in Newton or some other label?i‘m sorry for my english it‘s not my first language and i find physics very hard!!!: all forces are newton forces,they are further classified thoforce basically was created by newton to explain mechanics,its just like maths,before someone wrote 2+24 it wasn't called addition.so it is just a convention.to call it force or newton's force You have to calculate the net force on the cycle of which part of it goes into stopping the rider. F(6.4)63(320-105).5/18 we are assuming a lot of stuff thoso its useless if u use the same equation in reality.

Q: i needs to know who invented the first hydraulic brake for a motorcycle and in what year ? please help me i have searched all over the net!!!! thanks diana: Harley-Davidson ENGINE HistorY Sometime in 1903 William Harley and three brothers Arthur, William and Walter Davidson, built the first Harley-Davidson motorcycle in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. This new machine was really just a bicycle with an engine mounted on it and riders had to contribute some 'horsepower' by pedaling their motorcycles up the hills and grades. Nevertheless, the bike became a huge success. By the time 1909 rolled around the company had upgraded its design to feature a new engine design that consisting of two cylinders arranged in a V configuration. The new V-Twin Harley-Davidson? engine produced a the well-known deep, rumbling sound that would soon become the trademark of the Harley-Davidson? motorcycle company. The more powerful engine gave the motorcycle the power allowing it to exceed 60 mph, pedaling up the hills soon became a thing of the past.

Q: Hi, I am looking to buy a motorcycle (my first). Specifically a Kawasaki 250r. I want it new and retail is $4k. I am 18 but do have parents who could buy it since they have credit if you catch my drift. Im really confused and need some help on a couple things though-Should I get a motorcycle loan or a personal loan?-Can you even use a personal loan for a motorcycle?-What are the average interest rates for the better option?-Will this increase my auto insurance for any reason?-How long does a bike like this usually last if well maintained?-Any information on maintenance would be great, (how often to get oil changed, how long brakes and tires last, etc)?-If I were to get a used one, roughly how much would it cost me to have a mechanic verify its in good shape?-Is it worth buying a new one for $1000 more if it doesn‘t have 5000 miles on it? (idk how much is too much)Sorry for all the questions, I just want as much information as possible, thank you. ]: The 250 Ninja is not as good a first bike as many make it out to be. It is very user friendly, but is fairly peaky in power delivery. It is also covered in expensive plastics, driving up insurance/repair cost. It is good for inner city use, but not a good choice if you must go on the hiway I got a personal loan, when I financed one while in the military. This provided me a variety of legal advantages- couldnt be repoed for not having full coverage insurance, or even if I defaulted, I had more control in the event that it got impounded, etc so yes you can. But I advise you donot fiance consumer goods. Pay cash. I had no credit, and a 18% interest rate. Your insurance will become unreasonably outlandishly high. It will last forrver if you take care of it. Sportbikes dont die of old age/high miles like cars do. They die when a squid buys more bike than he can handle. Brake tire and clutch wear varies greatly based on your level of aggression. Oil changes are to be done 5kmi, valve clearence needs to be checked, and chains/sprockets are somewhat high maitence. Buy a used bike. Dont pay over $1000 for your first. I recommend a dual-sport if you have never ridden at all.

Q: i need a sensor/transducer to detect speed when a motorcycle braking system is being applied. can a rotary encoder suit this application? how?: You buy it from the store and use it in the desert. You could recharge it in the basement.

Q: Motorcycle oil brake does not hit the oil Editor's note: There may be brake oil or brake system in the air, there may be insufficient brake oil, brake pump blockage or damage can not be caused by the formation of pressure.

Q: i bought my motorcycle to fix it up, and there is no brake fluid in the bike. I watched videos about bleeding the fluid, but i dont know what to do if there is none what so ever. Do i just poor it in and pump the brakes or what?: If there is no fluid in the system I'd venture to say there is a leak in the system. But you could try to put some fluid into the reservoir, slowly pump the lever and see what happens.

Q: I have a 1983 Honda Nighthawk 550 that I‘ve been working on and I am new to the motorcycle scene. What kind of brake fluid would be okay to use?: DOT 3 or 4. No, No and NO to DOT 5 in that bike. It didn't exist when that bike was made - at least for mere mortals. DOT 5 is silicone based and DOT 3 and 4 are glycol based. They are totally INCOMPATIBLE with each other. While you can use DOT 5 in your Honda, You MUST have ALL of the glycol based fluid out of the entire system. NOT an easy task. DOT 5 has a higher boiling point and isn't hygroscopic (absorb water) which makes it suitable for racing systems. You Nighthawk has NO need for this. Use DOT 3 or 4. Be careful. DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid will eat paint. Don't dribble and if you do, clean up immediately.

Q: Today I fell on my motorcycle and had to carry it down a street back home (sucked) because it wouldn‘t turn on afterwards. I fell because as I was turning, I realized my turn was too wide and I was going to hit a car coming at me, so I braked and ended up falling the direction I was turning. Anyone have tips on how to turn better? I was going more than 20 mph so I was pushing down on my right handlebar.: Look through the turn to the exit, you will find the bike follows the direction you are looking – it does work. Look at the point where you see the two sides of the road appear to meet, if that point is moving towards you the corner will get tighter, if it is moving away the corner is opening up and you can think about going faster. You can brake in a corner but you have to be aware that two things can happen, first is you lose the front, or the bike will straighten up, putting you more toward the other side of the road. Neither is desirable.

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