Brake Pad WVA24123 Ceramic or Semi-metallic D1241-8358 brake pad for JAGUAR

Brake Pad WVA24123 Ceramic or Semi-metallic D1241-8358 brake pad for JAGUAR System 1

Brake Pad WVA24123 Ceramic or Semi-metallic D1241-8358 brake pad for JAGUAR

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Brake Pad WVA24123 Ceramic or Semi-metallic D1241-8358 brake pad for JAGUAR

Q: I need to change brake pads on my 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 motorcycle; this is a street bike/cruiser. There are many pads ,and the prices vary widely. What brand/material would you recommend.: Slashcan is complicated altering the fluid with bleeding. Two distinct things. Altering the fluid is listed as a carrier object, and desires to be done to hold fluid first-class, and hence its effectiveness. That is exceptional to the possibility of potentially allowing air to enter - which you could have carried out. You say you opened the screws on the grasp cylinder. Do you imply the screws on the brake callipers, or a screw on the handlebar end. The cylinder on the control bars is the grasp cylinder, as this feeds pressure to the calliper, or slave cylinders. Bleed screws on a motorcycle master cylinder are moderately infrequent. It's possible to introduce air into the hydraulics for those who use this incorrectly. Assuming you opened the bleed screws on the brake callipers, then you might have allowed air to enter in the event you released the brake lever at the same time the screw was open. This is given that the pistons may just transfer back as stress is launched - drawing in air if the screw was nonetheless open. If that is at all viable then you definitely will have to bleed the brakes. If you happen to do not then the brakes may just undergo serious fading if wanted urgently.

Q: they are promax mechanical disc brakes they are new so they cant be worn out if i hit the level fast all the way the back tire lifts up about 2 inches then it goes back down and it takes a while to stop so i think they are making to much heat what can i do?: switch the brake system, promax is too basic and is very bad and weak, go for shimano deore 535 hydraulic brakes and you will not be sorry

Q: On a Motorcycle, if I need to slow to turn in the city and I am only in 3rd gear, what do I do? Do I just pull in the clutch and lightly break then come out still in 3rd? Or do I just hit the breaks lightly without pulling in the clutch? Or down shift down to 1st? I imagine downshifting to 1st just to slow when I‘m only in 3rd is needless, but i really am not sure. What about in traffic situations also? If you might have to stop, but aren‘t sure, you might have to just slow down and then keep going. Sorry to seem dumb, I have never shifted before- obviosly. I just want to be safe. Thanks in advance.: The thing you need to do is downshift into second and let the engine slow you down, you will then be able to accelerate thru the turn in second gear. You should probably get into a motorcycle rider class before you go riding in the city, these are often offered through a larger motorcycle dealership. Remember, you, as the rider, must drive for everyone else on the road, as you have the most to lose in a wreck with another vehicle. Do yourself a favor and stay away from other traffic while learning to ride.

Q: What brand of motorcycle fuel economy to save money: YAMAHA car fuel-efficient? I feel very fueled it

Q: I‘ve been riding a vintage 1960 Vespa (125 cc, manual gear shift) for 3 years and now want to upgrade to a motorcycle.From what I‘ve been reading, they recommend lt; 500cc for the beginner bike. But I‘ve been riding my scooter for 3 years now, and its taught me to ride defensively.especially since the old thing has no turn signals and crappy brakes :):).My heart is toward a 700 cc motorcycle. Should I go for that or should I still stick to a lt; 500cc like the Suzuki GS500?: From a 125cc scooter to a 700cc motorcycle is not a wise jump. I think you need to stay with 500cc, anything smaller will be a waste of money/time, anything larger will be dangerous. Go with either the GS500 or a Kawasaki Ninja 500, and you will be happy and satisfied for years.

Q: what's the cons? can someone tell me the hazards on this? any possible affects on the boiling or overflowing? I have seen it on someones hayabusa and I'd like to do the same. I see no reason why because there is not presssure on the resorvoir as i know unless the fluid boils. any ideas?: There's all different kinds of plastics and each has its own properties. As ? said, the brake fluid may react adversely and you end up spilling fluid all over your tank. For taking it out it may work ok as a one shot deal, but there's no way I'd use one to fill the reservoir. Brake fluid will cause ordinary rubber to swell up a considerable amount and a plastic syringe has a rubber tip on the plunger. I could just see you sucking the syringe full of new fluid, the rubber tip swells and in an attempt to put the fluid in the reservoir, you squeeze, squeeze, squeeze and all of a sudden it sprays fluid all over everything. If you wish to use a syringe, an all glass one like used in laboratories would work.

Q: Did he put the motorcycle as a brake line?: is due to a serious overload, under the action of gravity acceleration, increased vehicle inertia, a direct result of brake failure.

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