• CDL Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pumps With High Quality System 1
  • CDL Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pumps With High Quality System 2
  • CDL Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pumps With High Quality System 3
CDL Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pumps With High Quality

CDL Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pumps With High Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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1. Performance

Flow Range:1-200m3/h

Head Range:11-200m

Power Range:0.37-110KW

Temperature:-20ºC-120ºC

Material:Stainless Steel 304,316

Work Pressure:<1.6mpa< span="">

2. Introduction
Non self-priming type vertical multistage centrifugal pump, the motor is directly connected with the pump through shaft couplings, impeller guide vane is made of stamping stainless steel plate or precision casting stainless steel, smooth surface , hydraulic flow loss is small, and easily for cleaning, is very favorable for conveying pure medium. Pump inlet and outlet in a straight line(can be equipped with IEC or NEMA motor). 

3. Operating Conditions
Thin, clean, non inflammable and explosive liquid not containing solids or fiber. 
The liquid temperature: normal temperature type - 15 ºC to 70 ºC hot water type to + 120 ºC 
Environmental temperature: highest + 40 ºC 
Height: highest 1000m 

4. Motor Introduction
Motor is fully enclosed, air-cooled type 2 pole standard motors. 
Protection grade: IP55 
Insulation grade: F 
Standard voltage: 1Ph 220-230/240V 
3Ph 200-220/346-380V 
3Ph 220-240/380-415V 
3Ph 380-415V 

5. Typical Applications
Water supply: water filtration and conveying, waterworks water supply, pipe pressurization, high-rise building pressurization. 
Industrial pressurization: process water system, cleaning system, high pressure flushing system, fire control system. 
Industrial liquid transportation: cooling and air conditioning system, the boiler feed water and condensation system, machine tool accessory, acid and alkali. 
Water treatment: ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system, distillation system, separator. 
Irrigation: farm irrigation, sprinkler, drip.

 

6. FAQ

1>  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2> Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3>  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

4> Do you have any variable motor for these pumps?

     Yes, we have. For the variable motor, the frequence can be changed as the customers' request. If the range is between 30~50Hz, the fan can be just connected with the shaft. And if the frequency is below 30Hz, then the fan has to have another separated power. The variable speed motor would be used for solar energy or some other similar situation with the unstable power. 

5> How about the Delivery time?

     Actually, this would be depending on the quantity. If it is just small order, 1 week would be fine. For bigger quantity, the delivery would be also less then 20 days. But for the varible speed ones, it will be taking some more time, normally it will be more than a month.  



 

CDL Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pumps With High Quality

CDL Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pumps With High Quality


Q: How much would it cost if I took it somewhere like midas?
what variety of noise? additionally, what do you mean by skill of is it solid? They valuable looking autos IMO and that they are able to be solid if dealt with. do no longer assume to make diverse ability from the 420A engine although.
Q: changed the thermostat. it overheats but cools down a heat bar or two idling at stoplights. i filled up the coolant reservoir when i changed the thermostat, drove it about 2 miles(engine was already up to temp when i started) and it overheated. drove it two miles back going about 35-40 and it never went above normal but was still overheating. checked the reservoir and it was empty. stuffed a hose in it and plugged it up with a towel to force water in to see if it was leaking anywhere, no leaks. while running with the rpms up the top hose is easy to squeeze. makes me think water pump. but if i go over 45 it over heats makes me think clutch fan.
So if i understand, you are losing water from your system but no evidence of where it is going. I can think of two options. Heater core, but you may get a coolant smell inside the car, steam on the interior of windshield. You can check this by connecting the heater hoses directly, bypassing the heater core. If it still loses water, look for foamy oil on the dipstick or on the oil filler cap. If present then the other guy is right - headgasket. I would also look into flushing the system, or replacing the radiator - it may be clogged.
Q: coolant coming out around a tube that supplies the heater core (told its the water pump just don't see how)
it could be a bad water pump or a hose split at the connection or a loose clamp on the hose
Q: yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry
You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.
Q: It DID start after the Water Pump was put on. And i have not yet been able to detect a vacuum leak. The quot;whistling noiseseems consistent with RPMs, and the quot;dieseling(run-on) stopped in all but a rapid succession of 5 quick ~1-minute start/stops when the engine was fully warmed.. then it minorly ran-on.Could i be driving myself nuts over a Water Pump sound, and if it IS a Water Pump bearing, do i need a new Water Pump?1984 Chevy Camaro. 2.8 V6 carb'd 165,000 miles Auto.
one tell tale sign of a bad water pump bearing can be a sound like a jet engine, but there are other possibilities too, I take a 4 foot length of garden hose put one end on top of what ever bearing you want to check and stick the other end too your ear.a slight hum is a good bearing, noisy bearings are easy to diagnose this way. Just be careful, no loose clothing or long hair near spinning fan and belts, engine has to be running to hear bearing noises. As to the dieseling noises, this is your engine running backwards. this is extremely hard on an engine. Leave the car in gear then turn it off. if its a stick, put it in a high gear let the clutch out until motor stalls. However dieseling is usually related to timing and poor quality fuel. Change to chevron super unleaded, it has techron which will help clean out a dirty fuel system, your vehicle may have a out of time problem, and or tune up issues can cause this. get this fixed, the fuel milege will be a bit better, and your engine will not self destruct. If the noise is in the water pump then replace it. Sometimes a jet engine sound can also be present in the torque converter in a transmission (automatic only)
Q: Okay my well water pump keeps turning on and off, i can hear it click on and off. Then the water stops running completely! What is wrong with it?? It has been doing this since last night.
Because water does not compress and air does when working properly your storage tank is largely filled with air until water coming in compresses it to around 60 psi then switch cuts out pump and then as it is used water drops pressure to around 30 psi then pump switch cuts in.. so it sounds like you have all water and no air in your tank making pressure shoot up immediately to 60 then shut off then drop to 30 then turn on all with in seconds or minutes whatever you have. Could be couple reasons as stated above tank should have air pressure even if it has no water in it
Q: Does the pump accessories have a shelf life?
Yes, 3-6 months for wearing parts, 12 months for general accessories, 10 years for shell type. Specific depends on whether the materials and user use conditions are bad to decide.
Q: 1998 Toyota Camry 4-cyl.Engine starts and runs, but makes a horrible, random clunking sound that seems to come from the water pump area. Coolant was seeping from front cover, appeared to be from water pump area again. engine idles, but wont rev up at all.My guess is that a bearing let loose or a vane broke off the water pump and is bouncing around inside, triggering the knock sensor which pulls out all of the timing, not letting it rev. Sound right?If that is the problem, what all is involved in replacing the water pump? Its my roommate's car, but I told him I would fix it if possible to save some money. I'm a fairly competent mechanic, but I don't have the best setup here while I'm away at school, so any info on how involved this will be, how many hours of labor is listed for that, or anything to watch for from someone who has had a similar problem before would be greatly appreciated.
water pump is driven by timing belt. need to replace together. water pump may have threw belt off, explaining no acceleration. weekend job, use new pump, vs. reman. get set with belt and new tensioner.
Q: I've never had overheating problems before, (although the heating itself never worked great) but today the gauge suddenly spiked while driving at about 50mph. I pulled over and steam was coming off the engine and the cooland tank was bubbling. The coolant was low, but not empty. I put some water in the coolant tank, let the engine cool and drove to a gas station where I got some coolant which I mixed with the water in the coolant tank. That didn't seem to help any. Even after letting the engine cool completely, it spikes after less than five minutes of driving. The radiator and both top and bottom hoses are equally hot. When I tried to start the engine with the radiator cap off, cooland shoots up out the top. The fans are working propely and there is no debris on the front of the radiator. So I'm sort of at a loss. Also, I've had some trouble starting since the problem.
that its having trouble starting isnt a good sign suggests the gasket or head are done for as for the original issue could be the thermostat, water pump, blockage of some other sort anyway - if its a cheap car time to search out a replacement if its worth some bucks best visit a mechanic

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