Cast Iron Fire Fighting Pump Used High Quality
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Specification
Cast Iron Fire Fighting Pump Used High Quality
Company Introduce
My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.
The company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.
The company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.
Product Parameters of Cast Iron Fire Fighting Pump Used High Quality
Capacity: | 20-200L/s |
Head: | 0.3-1.28MPa |
Speed: | 2900r/min、1450r/min |
Power of fitted motor: | 0.75-250kW |
Inler diameter: | 25-300mm(1"-12") |
Application Range of Cast Iron Fire Fighting Pump Used High Quality
It is mainly used for the water supply for the fixed firefighting system of both industrial and civil building
fire hydrant fire-extinguishing system,
automatic spraying,
fire-extinguishing system.
Cast Iron Fire Fighting Pump Used High Quality Superiority
High efficiency
Reasonable design
Reliable operation
Long in service time
Easy maintenance
Low running cost
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Why choose us
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material
FAQ
1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on
2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)?
3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
4) Contact us by under business card information
2.OEM: Ok
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts
Trading market
After-sales service
Transportation
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- Q: Im changing my water pump and it has a pully that the belt gos on in front of it and the pully has 1 big bolt in the middle of it and like 4 small ones around it and when i try to undo the bolts the pully turns and im not quite the mechanic but i do know that the pully has to come off 1st so how do i take out the bolts without the pully turning???? and yes the belt is off and battery id disconnected and the car is not hot it hasnt ran in days. and it has a 3.4 v6
- actually it works better if you leave the belt tight on the pulley, the tension holds the pulley so you can loosen the bolts, and even that big one, I think, you will need a decent pulley puller to get that pulley off, I suggest you buy a new water pump if you can afford it, otherwise you will but putting water pumps on every year or so, as rebuilt are not long lasting, best of luck, be careful around that radiator with the fan.
- Q: If the water pump does not get water to pump, will it be burnt out? If so, then can it be fixed? And if it doesnt get water to pump, what exactly happens to it?
- Jennifer said it so rated her, it's called air spin and she told you the rest
- Q: Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
- having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
- Q: If a person took a water pump and attached to a hose and ended up with (random numbers) 15 gpm and 30 psi at the end of the hose, what would happen if you put an exact same pump right next to it and hooked the two pumps together with a quot;Yfitting to a single hose? Would both the gpm and psi be doubled, or neither, or just one? What would happen?
- GPM would double assuming you don't try to push more water through the hose than it can handle. Pressure you can control by squeezing down on the hose. They are related V1 * P1 = V2 * P2 V = volume P = Pressure
- Q: Fully automatic self-priming pump
- Yes, design according to your different working conditions. For example, water pressure pump is pressure control, water pressure is low will automatically start, the pressure automatically shut down.
- Q: What things in my car could the seizing of my water pump cause? As I stated in another question, the power steering went, the red battery light came on and it over heated. The mechanic said it seized and i'm lucky the engine didn't seize. He has to look into it more. I'm just really curious as to what kind of damage i've done and the possibilities! thanks in advance.
- well... depending on how severe the problem is, it could be many things. You could simply have to change the water pump, and be on your way. That's the best case scenario. Though, in really bad cases, I've heard of the whole engine having to be replaced. When the water pump stops working, the engine doesn't get cooled properly. So it heats up a ton, and things start to expand. The pistons can start to gouge the cylinder walls, and ultimately they will get so tight that things can't move. That's what the mechanic was talking about. Also, the water expanding could cause some internal gaskets to blow out. So there are a lot of variables at play here. Best case, it's nothing serious. Maybe as little as $100 for a new water pump (depending on the type of car). Or worst case, you fried the engine and need a new one. That can get quite expensive obviously. Hopefully, it's nothing serious.
- Q: My car broke down yesterday and is waiting to be towed to the mechanic (2000 Dodge Neon). I'm pretty sure the Timing Belt broke, but my water pump was broken in the process and leaked out lots of water. Would the timing belt break the water pump when it snapped? Or does the broken water pump lead us to a different conclusion? Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.Also I was reading online today about interference engines, but couldn't find a list to verify if I have one of those or not. Anyone know? Thanks!
- First okorder 's Vehicle Repair Guides, which may have all the specs on your car's engine.
- Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
- these prices are correct for dealership quote. you will get a cheaper price with independent shop. your timing belt should be changed anytime after 75k miles. the timing belt and belt tensioner will break and you do not want to have replace the cyl. head, it's alot more money. the dealership lied about your water pump. that year the water pump runs off the drive belts not the timing belt. you can replace the water pump and not even touch your timing belt. your cam adjuster seal probably not leaking. what happens is the valve cover leaks oil on to the cam adjuster and is commonly mis-diagnosed. try just changing the valve cover gasket, clean up your excess oil and reinspect the seals on the back of your cylinder head after 500 miles. good luck.
- Q: I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
- All you need is a new switch. It' the pressure switch that you are refering to and if you have to hit it then it is shot. About $20 - 30 at the hardware store and easy to replace. Be certain to turn off power 1st.
- Q: I REPLACED MY WATER PUMP ON MY 1988 CHEROKEE,THE NEW PUMP STARTED MAKING THE SAME BEARING NOISE.
- this probably a dumb question but have you changed the bearing in the idler pulley? i have a 89 jeep that squeaks or squeals, bearing noise, just one bolt takes it off. i pulled mine off and greased the bearing, and put it back in, that took care of the noise. that was 6 months ago and it is starting again so i priced a new bearing, $6, you might need the number off the bearing to order it. make sure u just get the bearing, the whole idler pulley is like $40. I'm only suggesting this cause in my experience water pumps don't squeal, they kinda make a scraping noise then shortly later stop all together. if the pump wasn't leaking it might not have been broke. some times it is the simplest things
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Cast Iron Fire Fighting Pump Used High Quality
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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