Brake Pads for Toyota RAV4 04465-42080 D862-7738

Brake Pads for Toyota RAV4 04465-42080 D862-7738

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers!

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series.

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands.

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world.

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products.

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi.

5> We can produce as your samples.

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads.

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

Brake Pads for Toyota RAV4 04465-42080 D862-7738

Q:What is the best brake pads on the market for a zx12 motorcycle it does not stop fast enough?: Yes keep your headlights on. And in most states you are required to have them on in inclement weather.

Q:Pedal motorcycle stepless speed principle, the main reason for the large fuel consumption is the drive system to reduce the efficiency, or what other reasons, thank you Xiangjie!: Scooters with its beautiful appearance, luxury, style and easy to operate and much urban people love. But the scooters generally exist fuel consumption, high engine temperature, mechanical wear and tear of the shortcomings, whether it is the Taiwan version of KWANG YANG (standard GY6 machine), or to GY6 blueprint for the design and manufacture of 1P52QM gasoline engine assembly of many domestic brands 125 / 150 (1P57QM) Ml scooter fuel consumption are generally in the 3.0-5.0L / 100Km or so. How can the fuel price rise and the country may implement fuel tax today, reduce motorcycle fuel consumption and user use costs, this issue has placed in front of us. The author in the more than a year, relying on the bridge West Street (China Qingqi Group, China Geely Group) Leshan Sunshine Motorcycle Technical Service Station, part of the GY6 series of scooters for fuel economy and technological transformation practice, Significant fuel efficiency, so that fuel consumption and emissions are reduced. Here we introduce some of the experience and understanding to colleagues, hoping to play a role, lead to more and better fuel-efficient program.

Q:I have a 1982 Honda CM 125, and recently what seems to be the rear brake light is sticking. Using the front brake will not make it stick, but as soon as I use the rear brake it does. At first I thought this could be the switch on the brake pedal - but if you give the bike a good shake the brake light will disengage. So could this be a faulty connection? Any help with repair would be spectacular! :): The plastic housing on those rear brake switches tend to wear a bit and start sticking. Clean, adjust and give it a shot of lube such as WD-40.

Q:Rainy day brake useless, the faster the brake, is not the wrong brake pads?: Replace the brake disc, brake drum, brake shoe, check the cylinder

Q:Recently my front brakes locked up on a motorcycle. I was told that the front brakes caliper needed to be replaced. The brakes stay closed and will not release. The fluid is correct. Is it better to replace the caliper or rebuild it? It is the kind of brakes with pads.: I would rebuild it. It isn't hard, and replacing it would be like throwing away money. Get a repair manual for your bike and see all the parts that need to be replaced. Don't try to reuse the bleeder valve again either. Just replace it. Once you clean it all up, you will have to decide whether to hone the caliper or not. If it's old, corroded and dirty, then you have to, or you will wreck your new seals when you put it back together. The manual should explain all that. Good luck

Q:Well I‘m 14 but wanted to start thinking what type of vehicle I wanted when I turn 16 and I‘m not a car guy--I don‘t dream about them, I don‘t think about them, I just don‘t much care. But I was thinking of trying to get a motorcycle to save gas (seriously, close to 100 mpg ?!?! that is insane!). But I‘ve always been fearful of motorcycles cause they just look more dangerous (I‘m sure flying off motorcycles in GTA doesn‘t help at all lol): Riding a motorcycle isn't dangerous . crashing one is. So its largely on you the rider to prepare yourself skill wise to avoid accidents, and gear wise to protect your body if you do meet pavement. First thing you should do is look into taking the MSF beginners course in your area to build a really strong, educated foundation for how to operate a motorcycle. There are a lot of little things you don't want to try and figure out as you ride. They will teach you as well how to brake effectively and manuver at slow speeds. This is important because if you can handle a bike a slow speeds when the gyroscopic force holding up the bike is weakest, then you an handle it at higher speeds for sure. Also when you gear up, always wear full gear and the best you can afford. Trust me it, its much cheaper than a stay at the hospital. You can't avoid drivers that do stupid things but you can prepare yourself to deal with them.

Q:I need to perform brake and light inspection for a salvage motorcycle in Los Angeles/Southbay area.the only info DMV provide regarding this service is a referral to yellow pages which doesn‘t help very much. called a few motorcycle shops with no luck.does anyone know a shop that is licensed to issue the certificate?need it asap.Thanks: is that car really worht spending 1500 bucks on- its a 94- just junk it and get something newr

Q:I‘ve heard of brake bleeding vacuum pumps that you can hook up to compressors, such as Mityvac, but I‘m not sure what model to get for my motorcycle. So I need a model number.: Hold on there Jethro. You do not hook a vacuum pump to a compressor. You need to do a little reading first. Your answer is in the material linked below.

Q:I bought a 2008 Kawasaki ninja 250r. I just notived there is some black dust (carbon/coalish color) under the exhaust pipe, what could that be?Also, the owner told me to run the motorcycle for 20 minutes every day, if I wont be riding it that day, any reason why? and do I have to do this?when I brake, do I need to pull in the clutch and then brake? or it doesnt matter?lastly, is there any way I could know when the last oil change/tune up was done? I wasn‘t given any maintenance records, but the oil level seems fine.Thx.: The carbon color is a byproduct of lean combustion. Not uncommon on today's engines. If you have a fuel injected bike, it's most likely OK. If it's a bike with a carb and an aftermarket pipe, you probably need to have the carb rejetted correctly. No, do not run the motorcycle every day if you are not going to ride. That is the most stupid advice I have every heard. Your bike will be just fine sitting there without running it for hours, days, even weeks. You can actually damage the bike over time by idling it without going out for a ride to completely warm up the whole drive train. Do not listen to the person who told you that about anything motorcycle. You need to pull in the clutch to change gears. Yes you can do clutchless shifts, but you risk damaging the transmission if you do one wrong. You can slow with the brake without pulling in the clutch to the point that the engine begins to lug, then you need to shift. If you are slowing to a stop, you can pull in the clutch and use the brake to come to a complete stop - shift down as you slow - you don't have to release the clutch every gear if you are going to use the brake to come to a stop. You need to be in first gear just before coming to a complete stop. No. The previous owner was an idiot. You need to just start fresh. Change the oil and start your own mileage countdown for the next change - 3000 miles or jus before winter storage if you don't ride that much.

Q:I bought a used motorcycle a few months back and it now needs some fluid. The fluid is yellow-ish brown so it needs to be bled. Problem: Manual says it uses DOT 4, previous owner thinks he put in DOT 5. I've heard mixing the two can cause some serious sludge problems. How can I bleed the system if I don't know what type is currently in the bike?: Brakes are far to important to mess with. Bleed them out and replace the fluid with DOT 4 like the manual says. It is better to spend a couple extra bucks for fluid than the thousands you will spend if you fail to stop. If it was DOT 5 it is silicon based and will not react well with DOT 4. If it was DOT 5.1 it will interact fine with DOT 4. To bleed it out open the bleeder valve and pump the brakes while catching the old fluid and adding new DOT 4. If you want to go a little faster take a syringe and suck out the reservoir fluid first then add the new and start pumping until the new fluid come out the bleeder.

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