• Brake Pads for Toyota Modell (04465-28020 D263-7167) System 1
  • Brake Pads for Toyota Modell (04465-28020 D263-7167) System 2
Brake Pads for Toyota Modell (04465-28020 D263-7167)

Brake Pads for Toyota Modell (04465-28020 D263-7167)

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: My front brakes were making a squeaking noise on and off on my motorcycle so I changed the front brake pads (in which they needed to be changed bc the pads were shiny)... and now they squeak and squeal even worse! High pitch noise. And I don't even have to be pressing on the brakes for them to squeal, I can hear it going 45 mph! What's going on here? Btw the rotor is smooth/no ridges. Best answer, 10 pts! Thanks
You should always lube the bearing surfaces of the caliper when you change the brake pads on any vehicle - motorcycles, cars, trucks, etc. The bearing surface on most motorcycle brakes is the two pins that run through the caliper and pads. You can use specially formulated stuff if you like, but they get moly grease from the factory and that's what is generally recommended. Just a thin coating and rub it around with your finger. You can get a normal person's lifetime supply can from OReilly for $5. Make sure it's moly grease, and not white lithium or some other type. It will be black and have an odd odor. Other than that, some pads come with a coating on them that has to be worn off and will squeak for the first few uses. Especially budget ones made out of cheaper compounds. I always spend the extra money for EBC on my bikes and Wagner on my trucks.
Q: Today morning I locked my Motorcycles back brakes in traffic. The vehicle slide a little(Around 3 - 4mtrs) and the engine stopped. (I had no enough time to pull in the clutch)Is this OK for the Motorcycle?
Simple, dont use your rear brake so hard it locks up.
Q: I am 39 years old, 5‘ 11 and 200ish pounds and looking to buy my first motorcycle. I want a cruiser and have narrowed it down to the Suzuki c50, Yamaha Bolt, or Kawasaki Vulcan 900. Any recommendations for one over the other or am I dealing with a personal preference? The C50 was my first choice, but I am thinking the Vulcan might be the better choice due to front and rear disc brakes. Recommendations?
Have you actually sat on one? The Yamaha Bolt is a Harley Davidson Iron 883 clone. Both are Standard, not quite a Cruiser -- have your feet more to under you instead of the foot forward position like the C50 or a V-Star. They are also about 50 pounds lighter than the cruisers. I sat on a 883 Superlow and found it physically too small -- and I am 5'9. If I were to get the Bolt I would just get the Harley Davidson The Suzuki/Yamaha/Kawasaki 800-950 are close enough to not matter. The C50 is the only one with rear drum brakes, not that it matters, still better than you will ever need. It is also the only with liquid cooling, which is better for emissions, if you care, I don't. I prefer cast wheels with tubeless tires, less troubles. You might want to check out the Triumph America, similar size and price.
Q: I am buying my first motorcycle, i have never ridden, i have 2 options, first is a 2003 Honda Shadow 1100, 2nd option is a 2004 Suzuki Intruder 800, they are both roughly the same price, which is the better of the 2 bikes, i like the way the shadow looks better, but they are both sharp. i am 6 ft tall and 190 pounds
The Shadow outsold the Suzuki about 10:1 and for a reason. The Honda has plenty of power and it will fit you I guarantee.
Q: In nj is a moped considered a small motorcycle?
A moped is a cycle with pedals and a small petrol engine attached. It is started by pedalling. A motorcycle does not have pedals and is started by a kick starter or electric ignition.
Q: If I put the break on in my car while I‘m in gear but fail to use my clutch my car will eventually stall. But in every You Tube video I‘ve watch no one mentions this for a motorcycle?
If you're just braking a little (but the engine speed remains above idle speed), there is no need to engage the clutch. But if the engine goes below idle speed (begins to bog), you should either downshift (preferable) or at least pull in the clutch to keep the engine from stalling. The latter is not the best technique though because holding in the clutch for longer periods of time can be hard on the clutch.
Q: Hi guysI have a 1983 honda xl 185 and i am DESPERATELY trying to get it street legal, here is the list of issues/info-new battery and new signal relay-horn only beeps loudly when engine is revving ??-taillight dims when the turn signals are on (opposite to when the signals flash)-when applying either brake the turn signal (that is on) goes solid and the relay stops ticking-after messing around with it turning the flashers on etc for about 30 minutes (without motor running) the turn signals barely light up but the taillight stays on fairly strong - bad battery?-when revving all the lights are much brighterAny idea as to what is happening, i am going to check all grounds but am having trouble locating the frame grounds, any help is appreciated!
It depends what is making that loud noise. If its just the muffler, then most likely it does not affect the engine. But if its the header, or catalytic, O2 sensors, then it could affect the engine.
Q: This is my first bike and I am learning a lot with it. I was wondering how to bleed the brakes, what is a good bleeder, and if someone could point me to a website or some reading material on how to put on new brake pads that would be awesome. I am learning how to do all of my own mechanical work and have taken one class here at college that taught me all the systems in a car. That is the extenct of my knowledge.
make sure you have a bottle of the proper brake fluid for the bike. some one to help you out, by pumping the brakes when ready. ONE, put an old pan under the bike to catch the excess fluid. TWO gently loosen the front brake bleeder about a half turn,. Have some one pump the brakes till you get a steady stream of fluid. THREE close the bleeder snugly, but not forcibly. FOUR same as the front, but befor you start the back brakes, take the bottle of fluid, and top off the fluid reservoir.

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