Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads

Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads System 1

Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads

Q:im buying an old motorcycle from a friend and it needs a little work. it needs new mirrors, turning signals, and brake lamps.how much is it gonna cost to get this bike street legal again???: go to a junk yard and pick up the parts for cheap.

Q:Guys i recently gave my motorcycle to fit the hella single horn. Horn is working fine. But after i came back from the autoelectrician I found the front brake one of the two front brake cables was cutoff It is missing. Old horn was not giving sound and it was an old one. So i asked them to fit a relay. They have done that. The cable in the front brake lever was some kind of tube which was going to the cowling. How can i replace this cable. I wonder if they have changed the connection for fiting the relay for the horn. or did they deactivate the front brake switch alone. for the horn relay. I dont know what to do Please help me I want the front brake to show the stop light when applied?: Take it BACK to the mechanic. Tell him to fix it FREE.He should not disrupt required safety equipment. He messed up badly

Q:I am 19 years old and want to get my motorcycle license this month but my mom and dad are really against it. I think the reason is that there is more of a chance of getting hurt then a car and thats reasonable, but i think if i show them a good bike for a beginner they might reconsider. any suggestions? used new? whats better? pleaseee help: Honda Nighthawk Suzuki Bandit Harley 883 Pretty much 75% of all cruisers. No V Max ! No sport bikes. New is better but what can your budget handle ? Remember there is going to be insurance AND gear to buy. Helmet,(full face, trust me its what you need), gloves, jacket it adds up. Buy Motorcyclist magazine or go to the library (does anybody still do that ?) for the back issues. In every issue near the end is a recommendations for 3 used bikes. They give a quick review, show a picture, give an average range of prices and tell you what (if any) problems they were famous for. Good hunting, ride safe and you are in for a hell of a good time doing something not everybody does.

Q:So I went to bleed my motorcycle‘s brake fluid, but the screw is stripped. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? Either 1) How to get it out without an abundant amount of tools. 2) The perfect tool to get to get it out or even 3) a place that would take it out for me (for a cost of course).Thanks in Advance!Oh and if it helps, it‘s a 1980 yamaha maxim xj650.: How much of the head is left? I would get a cheap impact driver from Harbor Freight. Even if you can just get enough to get a little grip, that will usually get the job done. If you have a dremel tool, you can cut a new head into the screw that will fit a large standard blade and then the impact driver will work even better. On an old bike like that, I use my impact driver automatically. I don't even take out a screwdriver until it's broken free. I would also replace both screws with cap heads if possible and a nice smear of anti-seize on the threads.

Q:I‘m only 5 with short legs. I also have a fused left wrist so it doesn‘t bend. I‘ve always wanted to learn to ride a motorcycle. My family either has dirt bikes or Harley‘s but I have an old bicycle with the brakes on the pedals. Should I just not even think about it at this point with all my injuriesgt;: My husband just recovered from a motorcycle accident that damaged his knee's. He installed forward controls, so his legs would be stretched out on his new Harley 1200 custom low, and he adjusted the handle bars cause he's only 5'6. I'm not sure how to handle the wrist thing, as I'm a beginner myself. But I'm sure there's some way to have it modified.

Q:Hey there,I want to get my CBT soon, and I have a bike in mind to buy (Honda NSR 125) but I‘m slightly worried. How different is riding a motorcycle to a push bike and can you guys give me any pointers to be aware when riding a motorcycle? Thanks James: The basic mechanics of riding a motorcycle are the same as riding a push-bike, but the machine is much heavier and you will have to get used to using the controls which are a little different (shifting is typically one hand/foot while braking is the other) and using the engine for power. The NSR 125 is a good choice to start, plenty juicy (it's a 2-stroke) without being too powerful or heavy for a beginner. Get started in a vacant car park working on starting, stopping, shifting, low speed; you'll be comfortable inside the hour I'm sure.

Q:an instructions on the internet that i can find and print: easy screwdriver pry old pad back remove two screws pads fall out slide in new pads replace screws pump brake check fluid maybe hour or less just type into search box pretty easy to find most repairs by typing how to infront of what your looking for works pretty much with anything from house repair to weed eater repair add video to end of your question many times you find a video of it brakes easy how to replace brake pads motorcycle how to replace brake pads motorcycle video

Q:As far as i feel it is rear brakes which control stability If i am right please guide me further on this. If wrong please correct meThanks in Advance: In the Motorcycle Safety Course I took, we were taught to use 70% front and 30% rear. A lot of people over-brake the rear, skid the bike, then flip to the high side. Your hand is MUCH more nimble to modulate braking than your leg and foot, if you think about it. Unless you bike has anti-locks, your front brake should be your primary braking source.

Q:Do you have to down shift and then stop? Or do you just brake then go to gear one? Because what do I have to do to stop fast for a yellow light when I‘m not in the intersection yet?: Stopping for the yellow at the edge of the intersection is certainly one of life's most recurring existential dilemmas. Should you firmly apply both brakes and fast stop or sail on through? It depends on the proximity of the cement truck, tandem sand and gravel truck, bus of unbelted children or Granny's Buick to your rear fender. Stop and be a grease spot or sail on through and be an irresponsible cycle fiend bent on destruction of the social order. Darn, where are Sartre, Camus and Brecht when you need them? If you have to jamb on brakes to stop, look in that mirror first. Probably best to sail through. If you are actually 200 feet from the light and see the yellow and are just kidding about the need for a skilled fast stop then apply brakes firmly in a 60% front wheel effort and 40 % rear wheel effort and come up with one foot down swaddled with cool and finesses. This is a common scenario and any rider should have a comfort zone before the light, edge of intersection and prevailing traffic all ready thought out. Peace. Intersections are a great place to be wearing a helmet.

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