Axial Split Chemical Pumps The Black One
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 pc/month
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Double suction pump
Pump complies to API610 API682
Pump capacity:65~16000
Pump Head:10~215m
Pump Max. pressure:1.6MPa
Double suction pump
Pump complies to API610 API682
Pump capacity:65~16000
Pump Head:10~215m 
Pump Max. pressure:1.6MPa
Introduction:
This double suction pump product is foot mounted, single-stage and double suction with axial split structure.
Its inlet flange and outlet flange are arranged at the lower part of the body, paralel with the axis. Therefore, the rotor can be easily taken out for overhaul, unnecessary to remove pipes, valves and motor.
Mechanical seal: according to customer's requirements
1. Mechanical seal---171(A) mechanical seal (this kind of seal is the national-patented product, patent No. ZL92 2 20977.4 ) single or dual MS.
2. Dynamic seal.
3. Packing gland seal.
4. Other brands.
Coupling: pin type coupling
Application:
Water supply and water treatment industry
Paper-making industry
Heating devices of power plants, thermal power plants and pipeline networks
Fire protection systems
Seawater salt production
- Q: I drive a 1995 Acura integra ls model I'm mechanically inclined just not enough to do a headgasket (more patience wise) my car loses coolant once in every 3 weeks it starts to over heat. I don't have white smoke coming out of the exhaust or milky oil. Everything else runs smooth on my car. I've head it pressure tested and every thing else checks out so I'm kind of lost. All hoses are fine and not leaking and there is no coolant leaks showing up on the ground. Any ideas?
- head gasket sealant interior the truck so there replace right into a head gasket concern from the get pass? putting that crap in it replace right into a band-aide. and now you're caught with the subject. it incredibly is uncertain at this factor climate gasket sealant additive replace into used to tackle a leaking chamber or in the event that they have been given fooled by a a danger intake gasket concern. do no longer comprehend the unique indicators that triggered that undesirable selection. sorry! i might say that sealant crap ultimately passed on to the great beyond. no person ever would desire to have positioned that stuff in there interior the 1st place. would desire to have dealt with the subject somewhat of using a band-aide in a bottle that motives greater issues that it *tries* to unravel. i pass to get a combustion leak tester later, yet i'm basically questioning. so which you're taking this to a great ASE keep for analysis? i'm going to enable them to interrupt the undesirable information to you.
- Q: I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
- they're 2 distinctive areas, -- ninety 9% of the time you purely repalce the waterpump! The housing is kind of the decrease back of the pump assembly! analyze this to having a flat tire- you could might desire to throw the tire away,-- yet you utilize the wheel lower back! As for the leak, it relies upon in basic terms what's inflicting it, - this is repairable, - or it could no longer, -- possibly there's a discrepiency interior the instullation additionally. this might purely be desperate by using an experienced mechanic that takes the time to look and see what's inflicting the leak! working example a chip or intense scratch in mating surfaces might enable leak! -- often no sealer is needed while installation a waterpump, - the gasket usually compenstates for any minor' discrepiences of this style (so sealer might desire to no tbe mandatory)! yet this same concern must be relatively solved with a sprint silicone RTV sealer, - it could fill the scratch or chip and seal it off so no leak occoured! *** it is likewise a possibility that the housing isn't good sealed the place it mounts on the block (or the hoses), - and the housing itself must be solid! Housing expenses greater suitable than pump! additionally finding on what they might desire to do to get it out and alter it, - the hard artwork ought to fee lots! finding on whether you're able (or keen) to take this aside and and examine all of it out for your self, -and see if concern exists, - or is repairable (or substitute housing out yoruself), - you will possibly desire to remember on what the storage says! by using the way in some fifty 5 years of being a mechanic, - I even have seen greater defective new areas than i like to think of roughly,- so there's a threat that to procure a team of undesirable areas too! this is unlikely which you're able to get 4 in a row-- (till some production unit became out 10k - improper contraptions on assembly line), -- yet it relatively is not impossible!
- Q: my car ran hot a few times, its a 2006 chevy impala LS with about 50k miles.I do alot of driving but never had a problem until now. I took it to get an oil change and they said that I need a new water pump. I really dont know what that means but im afraid to drive my car until i get a new pump. i called around a few auto places and no one has the part. I called the chevy dealer and they said part and labor is $600. any suggestions of other places i can check for the part? can i still drive my car in the mean time? is it safe?are water pumps usually that expensive?
- 2006 Impala Water Pump
- Q: Ok i was wondering which is the from hose off of the motor the bottom or top since i thinl my heater core hose are reversed and i only get nuke warm air and not hot and yes ive got a brand new heater core, new anti freese, new thermostat and gaskets and all hoses are clear and not rust in the system
- IIRC it's just like the v8 chevys. Bottom rad hose is out of rad, into pump. Top rad. hose is out of engine, into rad.
- Q: the outboard runs fine and pumps water out with muffs on but when i put it in the water it doesn't pump any water at all. could it be that the impeller needs replacing? what do you think?thanks
- Replacing okorder /
- Q: someone told me my water pump may be going out and it sounds like their is a loose barron inside of it, so how much is it and and if i was to have someone else to fix it how much will it cost me
- type okorder type in your info and look for a how to tyhey have many there an dother guy layed it out pretty well
- Q: Water pump
- get a chevy better car FORD found on road dead . ha ha ha haha!
- Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
- these prices are correct for dealership quote. you will get a cheaper price with independent shop. your timing belt should be changed anytime after 75k miles. the timing belt and belt tensioner will break and you do not want to have replace the cyl. head, it's alot more money. the dealership lied about your water pump. that year the water pump runs off the drive belts not the timing belt. you can replace the water pump and not even touch your timing belt. your cam adjuster seal probably not leaking. what happens is the valve cover leaks oil on to the cam adjuster and is commonly mis-diagnosed. try just changing the valve cover gasket, clean up your excess oil and reinspect the seals on the back of your cylinder head after 500 miles. good luck.
- Q: took car to meachanic on a friday drove home . mecahnic put in timing belt engine coolant water pump car on sunday leaking alot of green fluid and smoke coming from hood
- Clearly they did not drive it after they worked on it. They messed something up and need to fix it. call them and let them know and don't drive it out of coolant or you will fry your engine.
- Q: I don't want to have to rent or purchase a electric pump to pump the water out of my pool so are there other ways to get the water out besides the obvious (a bucket and alot of people). I am really tight on money so purchasing a device to do the work isn't a real option but I really need to drain the pool without damaging it.
- I have what is called a sump pump that I drain my pool with it works great. Ask a friend or relative if they might have an old one laying around. The sump pumps are generally used for pumping water out of basements when they flood but they work great in pools. I have 2, if you were near I would give you one
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Axial Split Chemical Pumps The Black One
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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