• Automatic Exhaust Circulator Pump System 1
Automatic Exhaust Circulator Pump

Automatic Exhaust Circulator Pump

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Q: I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff
if it is powerful enough to power the pump then yes.
Q: I've got a 1997 Ford Probe, taken it to a couple different places; whenever I drive my vehicle, it tends to want to overheat. I don't drive it to the point where it does though, I know that could cause more damage! I've noticed that when I go out to my car in the morning, there's some coolant on the ground by the front passenger's tire. Before I drive it I fill it with coolant, as to try to keep it from overheating while driving.I've been told that it's the water pump leaking from 2 people but then the last person said there's no leakage. I'm wondering if it might be something else? Maybe a thermostat, a hose, maybe? How would I figure this out???
If it is your water pump, just keep driving the car and you will soon know. The pump will lock up, you get towed in, then get to have the pump repaired. By what you said, my guess is the water pump needs replaced.
Q: how do i take water pump off took all hoses and bolts i think off dont know whats holdin it on how many bolt hold it on i know the seal can hold it on ther but it wont budge even when i use block of wood and tap with hammer
This Site Might Help You. RE: how do i take off water pump on 97 lt1 camaro? how do i take water pump off took all hoses and bolts i think off dont know whats holdin it on how many bolt hold it on i know the seal can hold it on ther but it wont budge even when i use block of wood and tap with hammer
Q: Assuming that my water pump standard flow is 20m3/h, tolerance value requirements is + 8%, then is not traffic 22m3/h is not qualified?
Tolerance coefficient is due in the manufacturing process, will, so each pump products are possible shapes and sizes do not conform to the pattern of the situation, and ensure the test results in the value (operating point) when compared, should be allowed to have a certain tolerance. It should be noted that these tolerances are only relevant to the actual pump and do not involve test conditions and measurement uncertainties. If the pump at a certain working point (the same lift) standard (Design) flow of 20m3/h, the actual flow of 22m3/h, indicating that the pump in the design process has unreasonable place, resulting in waste of power. Deviations from the manufacturing process usually have no positive deviation.A pump is a machine that transports liquids or pumps liquids. It will be the prime mover of the mechanical energy or other external energy transfer to the liquid, the liquid energy increase, mainly used to transport liquids including water, oil, alkali liquid, emulsion, suspension emulsion and liquid metal, but also transport liquid, gas mixtures and liquids containing suspended solids. Pump performance of technical parameters are flow, suction, lift, shaft power, water power, efficiency, etc.; according to the different principles of work can be divided into volume pumps, vane pumps and other types. Displacement pump is to use its studio volume changes to transfer energy; vane pump is to use the rotating blade and water interaction to transfer energy, there are centrifugal pumps, axial flow pumps and mixed flow pumps and other types.
Q: I recently bought a 01 firebird trans am. was doing some maintenance on it. basic stuff, tune up, serpentine belt, break flush, and a coolant flush. I didn't notice any leakage in the car, and neither did any mechanics before. Last week when i did all these basic maintenance i went back to check up on one more thing. The mechanic raised my car up and asked when I'm replacing my water pump.Seeing that it was leaking...but the liquid wasn't green, more or less brown and it didn't have any particular smell, but its not coming from the oil pan. What I'm thinking is that maybe the hoses were completely tightened? All help would be appreciated! thank you!
Check your coolant levels. Take a drive and let the engine get warm enough for the thermostat to open. This is easily checked by grabbing the upper radiator hose that comes from the thermostat housing. Be careful because it will be really warm. (Most thermostats open at 165 to 185 degrees.) If that is warm, great. With the car running, while parked on a clean surface where you can see if there's a drip, look under the car. Any dripping? Water pumps will more often show that they are gone without making any real noise. They have a weep hole, a place where when the seals goes, it lets water drip out and this is obvious. Water coming from there will be obvious. If there's not a slow or steady stream of water coming out, then it's likely NOT to be the water pump. Turn the engine off and look for wet spots. Is there water around the radiator cap? Is there water around any of the hose connections. Are there any bulges in the hoses? If nothing is really obvious, go to the auto parts store and buy Bars Leak radiator sealant. When you get home, drain half a gallon or so of water from the radiator. Shake the Bar leaks really well and pour it into the radiator. Go for a drive. Drive for 5 minutes, get the engine heat up and drive home. Any minor leak, even at the hose bib, in the radiator, or in the water jacket will be fixed. This stuff has a guarantee so if it doesn't work, go get your money back. You're looking at spending under 10 bucks, by the way.
Q: What does the pump lift mean?
The pump head is the height or length of the distance from the pump to the outlet
Q: I live in a residential/country area, and I have a well pump down cellar. I notice that, even if I am not using any water, nothing is running (toilet, etc) it tends to cycle on and off every hour or so. The pressure is always good, so that's not an issue. I am just wondering....is it normal for it to do this?
No problems. It just means that the check valve in the pump is leaking off slightly and the pressure is dropping down to kick the relay in. As long as it doesn't do it every few minutes when water isn't being used, you have nothing to worry about. If you have a facet with a drip, it will do the same thing.
Q: I was recently driving and noticed my heat gauge in the red. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 door LX. When I opened the hood what appears to be water was all over the place. Is this the water pump or something else? I want to fix it this weekend so I was hoping for a better understanding of what it might be. I am aware of the labor involved with the water pump and removing the timing belts to get to it. Thanks a bunch in advance!
since you have aluminum heads im betting your head gaskets are blown if it got into the red. Those 4 bangers dont stand up to the heat well.
Q: I've never had overheating problems before, (although the heating itself never worked great) but today the gauge suddenly spiked while driving at about 50mph. I pulled over and steam was coming off the engine and the cooland tank was bubbling. The coolant was low, but not empty. I put some water in the coolant tank, let the engine cool and drove to a gas station where I got some coolant which I mixed with the water in the coolant tank. That didn't seem to help any. Even after letting the engine cool completely, it spikes after less than five minutes of driving. The radiator and both top and bottom hoses are equally hot. When I tried to start the engine with the radiator cap off, cooland shoots up out the top. The fans are working propely and there is no debris on the front of the radiator. So I'm sort of at a loss. Also, I've had some trouble starting since the problem.
Hi so your issue is most likely the radiator cap as well over time the spring in the lid of the cap which retains pressure becomes weak over time.
Q: Pump performance parameters have three sets of data, how to understand the flow, lift, flow speed
The middle parameter is the rated value. The lower limit is the maximum. General use of valve control.

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