• 6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine  Water Pump System 1
  • 6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine  Water Pump System 2
  • 6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine  Water Pump System 3
6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine  Water Pump

6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine Water Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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                     6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine  Water Pump

1.Structure of 6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine Water Pump Description

The pumps are designed for economical&trouble-free operation in handling solids-laden liquids and slurries, it handle up to 76.2mm spherical solids. Pumps feature a large volute design which allows them to re-prime automatically in a completely open system without the need of suction or discharge check valves. And this is workable with the pump only partially filled with liquid and completely dry suction line.Standard Self-Priming pump units are available for Solids Handling or Clear Liquid service. Typical mounting configurations are Engine Driven for Skid or Trailer Mounted packages and Frame Mounted Electric Driven.  Pumps also are available in a variety of different metallurgies.

 

2.Main Features of 6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine  Water Pump

Big pump body pass 76.2mmsolid ,high suction head 7.6 m

Replaceable Wear Plate

Heavy Duty Suction Flapper

Removable Inspection Cover allows Clean-out, Impeller, Seal and Flapper without disturbing Piping

Semi-Opened Trash Handling Impeller

Cartridge Type Mechanical Seal for Ease of Maintenance

3.6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine  Water Pump Images

Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump

4.6inch Self Priming Centrifugal Diesel Engine  Water PumpSpecification

Material

 

Cast Iron, ADI, CD4MCU, 316 SS, Alloy 20, C276.

Diesel Driving

 

Water cooled or air cooled

Method of Connection

Self-priming pumps are available as basic units or may be flex-coupled, V-belt driven or engine mounted.

Inlet/Outlet

 

2''(50mm), 3''(75mm), 4''(100mm), 6''(150mm), 8''(200mm), 10''(250mm), 12''(300mm)

Impeller Diameter

 

158.74mm-457.2mm

Rotary Speed

 

550RPM-2150 RPM

Flow Rates

 

8m3/h-1275m3/h

Head

 

6m-63m

Horsepower

 

1HP-125HP

Solid Passing

 

20.63mm-76.2mm

5.FAQ

①What is the lead time for samples?

7-10days

How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. It related to the state and detailed requirement of customers.

 

Q: coolant leaking from weep hole on water pump need to know what i need to remove to replace or should i call mechanic
its better to have someone show you instead of tell you
Q: looking for the comparison and then finaly the conclusion about the water pumps instaaled in the IC engines. Where we should stick to the tradional mechanical driven water pumps or electrical water pumps? which one is better!! any information/ response is appreciated
Mechanically driven water pumps run off of a belt on the front of the engine to drive them where-as an electrical water pump is run by you guessed it electricity. Belt driven water pumps are much more common with electrically driven pumps usually used for high performance car so as not to rob horsepower from the engine by the force it requires to drive the pump.
Q: What are the conditions for the series and parallel connection of the pumps?
1, pump series, the two pumps must start and stop at the same time in order to normal operation.2 when the pump is connected in parallel, the two pumps must be equipped with check valve at the same time to operate normally.3, of course, in the election of the pump, should meet the requirements of upstairs said.
Q: Looking for a pro's advice here. My Corolla has developed a strange noise over the past few cold weeks (Highs of 10 degrees max, well below zero at night). The sound would best be described as a cricket-type rythmic chirp noticable during acceleration. I don't believe it's a belt because it comes and goes though it has steadily gotten louder. I vaguely remember this sound being related to a bad water pump I had a few years ago. Do you think this could be the same thing? Three years for a water pump? And do water pumps tend to go out more frequently in the cold weather? Thanks!!!
timing belt
Q: Having a hard time taking out the water pump on my 2004 Grand Am. it's been leaking anti-freeze for some time and finally had the time to fix it. Didn't know it will be so difficult to take out. So hopefully it won't be so difficult to put back up.
You did not say if you have a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder. The 6 is really easy so I will assume you have a 4.If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Removal in Engine Mechanical - 2.2L (L61). Drain the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling . Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the right front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Remove the front fender liner. Refer to Front Fender Liner Replacement in Body Front End. Remove the access plate on the water pump sprocket from the timing cover. Install J 43651 to the water pump sprocket. Use the access plate bolts to secure J 43651 to the engine front cover. Remove the bolts that secure the sprocket to the water pump. Remove the bolt (1) that secures the engine block to the water pump. Remove the bolt (2) that secures the engine front cover to the water pump. Remove the feed pipe that joins the thermostat housing to the water pump. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the water pump to the engine block. Remove the water pump.
Q: Im changing the water pump on my explorer. As i was unscrewing the bolts one of the heads to the bolt wore out and now its really hard to take out and its giving me a headache. any ideas of what i should do to take it out?
use minny vice grips it slow or grind head off take rest of bolts out pull water pump an alot more bolt to grab with vice grips an turn out a little lube blaster an screw back in an walk it out like that till all the way out an get a new bolt
Q: I just had my water pump/timing belt replaced and oil change. When the pump failed, white smoke was coming out, which I figured out to be coolant from the smell. Now there is smoke coming out from under the engine, which I believe to smell like oil. Also, the temperature gauge goes up to the halfway point when I am at a stoplight or idling. The highest I have ever seen it is at 1/3.I had my car serviced by the dealership and I asked them. The man said its burning oil residue from the oil change and that it will burn away in a few days. Is this true? I have had my car worked on and oil changed for the past year at this dealership and have never had any smoke or other problems. What else could be going on? Worse case scenarios. Thanks everyone.
the oil residue should burn off very quickly since the mechanic was too lazy to de grease it himself. What does your oil pressure gauge read? It should be at least 30 to 40 psi at idle Unless you have a leak which would make it run hotter than normal and cause the smoke from under the engine you spoke of. I would have another mechanic look at the engine for possible coolant or oil leaks which would cause exterior smoke from engine and a warmer running temperature.
Q: Which is the better option for a home water pump? a submersible pump or floor based pump?
In case of pump failure, it's much easier to repair/replace a floor based pump plumbed with isolation valves and unions. I've replaced a few due to motor failures and flood damage. Arguably, the submersible pump wouldn't have suffered damage due to flooding. Another consideration is vertical pump height. A floor based pump has to draw a vacuum to induce water to flow up to the impeller. This limits the practical draw to between 25 and 30 ft. Much more than that height and the vacuum will exceed the vapor pressure of the the water, boiling it rather than pumping it. A special device can be used to boost the lift: an ejector is placed down the well. Water is pumped down to the ejector, which pulls additional water back up using the venturi effect. This method suffers from additional friction losses but has clear advantages. If you need to pump water up a well more than 20 feet vertical, you should consider a submersible pump, particularly if you are concerned about the possibility of the water table lowering.
Q: i'm changing the tyming belt the vehicle has done 120,000 km should i replace water pump as well
Hi strange you say this it seems like when ever a timing belt is changed on a toyota the water pump is always an issue, i was warned that the same is true on my land criuser that the water pump may need to be replaced when the timing belt is changed.
Q: I have just replaced the timing belts on my 94 Civic Si and my 00 Elantra GLS. Both were done at different shops, but i got the same hounding to replace the water pump when doing the belt. My Elantra has 66k and my Civic 85k and i know how important the timing belt is-especially with a negative clearance engine like the VTEC. previously, i've never been told to replace the waterpump with the timing belt til now. is this just a ruse to extort more money out of me, or is there some validity in what the guy behind the counter is saying??
Rubbish, I've been a motor mechanic for about 10-11 years now, and have never nor heard of anyone advising this. The problem is if your water pump seizes up it will strip the teeth on the belt, if the garage is worth it's salt it will check the pump before the new belt is fitted simply by spinning it, to make sure the bearings are OK.

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