• Auto spare parts!ABS brake disc 3501375-KD500 System 1
Auto spare parts!ABS brake disc 3501375-KD500

Auto spare parts!ABS brake disc 3501375-KD500

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Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer

1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.

2.equipped with Disa sand process line.

3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates

4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.

5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )

6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)

Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc

uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc

OEM parts Good quality Competitive price 
Excellent part supply system 
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949

We will check out the raw materials as well as the finished products strictly under the international standard and the requirements of our clients depending on our various equipment and our powerful analysis capabilities.

We put both process capacities and output capacities under control, so as to guarantee the process capacities are controllable and the process index is reasonable.


Q: have to be notice a while that how do pilots brake the aircraft at tarmac‘s, taxi ways , gates etc some told me that the rudder pedals work upon at ground as the purpose of braking ,how far is this true ?
I've used the best and worst. As long as you use a good fertilizer and have the right lighting, you'll be good to go.
Q: I was installing new spark plugs on my car. When I finished installing the plugs the power brakes weren‘t working. Is there something I accidentally disconnected near the plugs?
you could have knocked the line for the brake booster booster off on it that would make it do that,id go back over it and see if anything looked out of place,and you may hear a vacuum noise from it when its running if there is a hose knocked loose also,good luck with it.
Q: ok, so heres the problem. i have a ‘98 taurus lx edition. great car, great condition. however, recently the brakes have gotten weird in a hurry, and im worried theyre going to cause me to wreck. i just got brand new drum brakes a couple months ago in the rear, and the front pads, although i havent checked them lately, are under a year in age. suddenly, when i try to brake, i have to put my brake pedal almost to the floor to get any stopping power, and it feels like its grinding terribly. my rotors are slightly pitted, but they have been for a long time, so im not sure its that. as for having to put so much pressure down, my only theory is i need to add brake fluid. if thats the case, how to i put the brake fluid in, what kind does my car need? thank you all )
NEVER ADD BRAKE FLUID!! The brake master cylinder is designed to hold just the right amount of brake fluid for your brake system. There are two things to note. 1) As the brake pads wear out, the calipers piston has to move farther out to press on the brake pads. As the piston moves farther out, the area behind the piston becomes filled with more fluid from the master cylinder, and the level of fluid in the master cylinder goes down. When the fluid level in the master cylinder gets too low, a light should come on indicating that your brake fluid is low. That does NOT mean you need to add brake fluid. It means your brake pads are VERY close to being worn out. 2) If you add brake fluid today, and have your brakes done tomorrow, when the mechanic compresses the caliper piston ALL the excess brake fluid is going to spill out of the master cylinder all over the engine compartment and make a huge mess. Not to mention ruining your car. Just a note: Brake fluid does not evaporate. So, unless you have a leak, NEVER add brake fluid. Have your brakes serviced.
Q: About a month ago I put transmission fluid where the brake fluid goes and now my brakes are bad I am not sure if it is just the brakes or is it because of the transmission fluid. When I got home I noticed what had happened and used a medicine dropper and got what was on top off, will the transmission fluid float? Is it bad and what should I do about it?
Transmission Fluid In Brake System
Q: On a 99 Ford F150, the ABS: light stays on. Is that anti-locking brake system or air bag system?
It would be best to source one from a recycler. Much less expensive and they typically come with a warranty. It is works fine for one day it will work fine for 1000 days. Considering the market value of the vehicle I think used is the way to go on this one. You can call a transmission shop and get a quote for the labor charges to change it over.
Q: This is actually a physics question, so it probably has something to do with force and momentum of the car/person, I just have no clue.Thank you in advance guys, it‘s be great help. (:
i quite theory all automobiles got here commonly used with a minimum of rear abs. besides, for someone who has to ask that query, the reply is unquestionably. ABS brakes are a outstanding protection characteristic for most folk. Myself and different fanatics ought to like the former form, yet for a lot of at present's drivers, ABS and stability administration are helpful recommendations.
Q: I have absolutely no brakes on my explorer when you push the brake pedal down it goes all the way to the floor. I have had 3 people look at it and everyone tells me something different. We thought air was in the brake lines so we tried to bleed the brakes that did no good. Thought the Calipers were bad changed them still no good. Two people looked at master cylinder and said it was OK another said it wasn‘t I‘m at a loss. I have done spent around $250 trying to fix it in the past 2 weeks and am about to pull my hair out. I am a single mom with 2 kids and I need it so I can get back and forth to work daily. Does anyone have any suggestions? I cant afford to take it to a mechanic so any help on here would be greatly appreciated
if youre brake booster was bad you would still have brakes it would just be extremely hard to push down the pedal , if youre calipers were bad it would pull very hard to one side or the other when you hit the brakes,hers how to tes a master cylinder, you start the engine and wiht youre truck idling you press firmly on the brake pedal and if it slowly sinks to the floor the youre seals are bad inside, based on what you provided it sounds to me like you have some sort of blockage somewhere, if you hit the pedal and it drops straight to hte floor with little or no resistance then youve got a leak somewhere, but if you havent noticed brake fluid pouring out than that is not a likely problem either, the only other idea i have based on the info you provided is that the linkage for the brake pedal has broken or come loose under the dash board or that youre fluid level is extremely low.you can visually check the fluid level by looking at the resevoir under the hood, to check your linkage look at the very top pf your brake pedal and check if everything is still attached to it and that nothing is broken. i hope this helps but if youre still having issues i would be more than willing to go thru this step by step w you, if you live in illinois i would be happy to come take a look for you and repair it , at no cost to you, good luck and god bless, let me know how you come out thanx ps the vaccuum leak suggestion isnt bad but you would notice a definite increase in engine speed at idle if you had a leakk big enough to effect your brakes
Q: the brakes work good, however i have to continually add brake fluid. i could not find a leak anywhere, and pressure is good. i have been told it could be one of the following: brake proportioning valve antilock valve brake boosterhow do i test each of these and where is the antilock valve located? is there anything else it could be and how would i check it? i know i should have a pro do it but i am in college and can not afford that luxury.
to tell you the truth, unless you have just done the brakes or the brake light remains on when the parking brake is released, you should not add to the master cylinder. there is a sensor that is calibrated to turn on when the fluid level gets too low, and the fluid level will drop for one of two reasons. 1) normal wear on the pads and shoes requiring more fluid to push them to ward the drum or disk, or there is a leak. this leak you speak of that you can not find, a fun place to look requiring a little know how and work is at the back of the master cylinder. if you are both lucky and unlucky at the same time, you may see a trail down the vacuum brake booster behind the master cylinder. you may have to pull the master cylinder away from the booster to locate this leak though. my wife's car has this very problem right now. but i keep an eye on the fluid level and proceed with caution. as for an anti lock valve, does not exist, it is an entire assembly, but i am not familiar with where to find it on your vehicle of the top of my head.
Q: A brake master cylinder piston has an area of 1cm2. The piston in the brakes has an area of 5cm2. The master cylinder is pushed with a force of 600N. Calculate the pressure on the master cylinder piston. What is the pressure on the brake piston? Calculate the force applied to the brakes. Explain why water is not used in car braking systems.
it is no longer plenty that drinks can pass stress, fairly that they are able to no longer be compressed. The grasp cylinder is crammed with fluid held in a reservoir, that reservoir is hooked as much as a cylinder with a piston it somewhat is hooked as much as the brake pedal. The grasp cylinder is hooked as much as brake cylinders on the guy wheels by utilising brake lines or tubes. the completed device is void of air and brake fluid fills all of the cylinders and lines. each guy or woman wheel cylinder has pistons besides. once you push on the brake pedal the stress from the pedal pushes the piston interior the grasp cylinder forward. The piston tries to compress the fluid, on the grounds that this won't ensue the fluid is compelled into the brake lines. Then fluid is compelled into the wheel cylinders. the upward thrust of the fluid interior the wheel cylinders forces the pistons outward. those pistons are related to the brake shoes (drum brakes) or calipers (disk brakes). The brake shoes are pressed against the drum and or disk, which creates friction and motives the motor vehicle to slow to a supply up.
Q: I need a new brake cable for my mountain bike, but every cable that I find at regular sporting goods stores are too low of a gauge for downhill brake stress that I put on the cable. The cable setup on my bike is very tight and there is little play between brake 0% and 100%. Its the cable for the rear tire. That‘s the only way that works for me.So, can anyone help me find a heavy duty bike brake cable?PS I always stretch or rip the cables that I get from stores, and have asked about a heavy duty cable but they say I dont need one.
I noticed you said the rear cable. It's *not* the cable. Any high grade stainless cable will work. I would first have your local bike shop look at the brake set up. A fresh set of eyes can help. Notice I didn't say sporting goods but a bike shop. Bike shops specialize in these things. Cables are somewhat elastic by definition. They have to be to prevent failure. You are going downhill and going beyond the limits of the brake's design or the bike frame itself is flexing. If you are going serious down-hilling, you need a quality hydraulic disc brake. This removes any cable elasticity and/or frame flexing. It's just a superior design. That's why cars use hydraulic disc brakes. Whatever you do, play it safe till this is fixed and happy trails!

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