• Auto spare parts!ABS brake disc 3501375-KD500 System 1
Auto spare parts!ABS brake disc 3501375-KD500

Auto spare parts!ABS brake disc 3501375-KD500

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Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer

1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.

2.equipped with Disa sand process line.

3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates

4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.

5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )

6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)

Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc

uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc

OEM parts Good quality Competitive price 
Excellent part supply system 
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949

We will check out the raw materials as well as the finished products strictly under the international standard and the requirements of our clients depending on our various equipment and our powerful analysis capabilities.

We put both process capacities and output capacities under control, so as to guarantee the process capacities are controllable and the process index is reasonable.


Q:I just bought an ‘07 camry and for some reason, the brakes feel a little weird to me. Spongy would be a good way to describe it. No lights come on, the car stops fine, but it seems like the brake pedal is soft. I read some q‘s about bleeding the brakes, and my issue isn‘t like that.What is normal? How far should the brake pedal be pressed before the car stops and/or the pedal stops? I can press my brake maybe 8-10 inches before the car comes to a complete stop.
The feel and travel of any break system is dependent upon its design. Depending upon what kind of break booster and cylinder they use compared to the size of the caliper assembly will determine how much travel is necessary to get breaking. The auto companies spend an enormous amount of time trying to match feel to the target audience. But that said, 8-10 inches is really excessive. Get them looked at soon.
Q:Just received a new Daiwa Saltist 30H. I want to know how the braking system works and how to adjust it before i go practice as this is my first conventional reel. I‘d appreciate your inputs. Thanks.
It can seem like a bit of a daunting task to get used to these reels and adjustments but they're really not all that bad. After you get used to it you will be very happy. You get longer casts, more precise casts, and better durability all around with these reels. Alright, I'll do my best to explain how to adjust these things properly. First, you should have a braking system along with a tension knob. The tension knob is the bigger knob normally on the right side of the reel and the brake is the smaller dial on the opposite side. -Set your brake (small dial) at about mid strength or just above it (normally there are numbers so set it around a 5 or so). -Tighten the tension knob pretty tight then tie your desired bait on. -After your bait is tied on loosen up the knob until your bait slowly falls. You don't want the bait dropping like a rock or dropping very slow, just somewhere in the middle. Normally a good couple of seconds is a good fall rate for the bait when you have the rod stuck straight out in front of you. Repeat that same technique for every different bait you tie on. It seems like a lot but it's not once you get used to it. You'll be able to make that adjustment in seconds in the future. Now, the small dial which controls your braking system will help out mostly when you're throwing lighter baits. It simply slows the spool down while you're casting. If you have a lighter bait tied on you don't want the spool spinning faster than the bait is traveling through the air, the brake will prevent this. So, for a lighter bait, tighten up a bit and for a heavier bait loosen it up. Edit: Oh ok, simply exclude the info about the dial then. Use the same process with the brake where the bait slowly falls while holding the rod straight out.
Q:I was looking over the BMW of North America website and Building a 2011 3 series 335i (Which I will be getting when i enter college next year :D), and something attracted my attentionThe 328i version (the crappy version) can come with the BMW Performance Front Axle Brake System, which look very sexy on a carWhen I looked over at the 335i, i couldn‘t find that option in the Performance Category. Im confusedThe 200+ horsepower version has more Performance options than the 300+ Horsepower version.Is it just a website thing or what, somebody explain pleaseThanks,Customer
335i has it, or it is another kind of system that is better. every part of the 335i is better than the 328 except the cupholders :-) my friend has a '08-'09 335i. They are very fast. Enjoy!!!
Q:I have a 99 lexus rx300, I starte feeling a difference when I went to brake. I felt a noise almost as if it was at the pedal level. It is not the brake pads I had those done recently. It doesn‘t do it all the time, I do notice it more when I hit the brakes, if I slowly hit them it doesn‘t.? what could this be
FEELING A DIFFERENCE is not specific enough. There is a good chance that you have installed cheaper than factory pads or have brake fluid issues. Realize that brake fluid wears out and must be replaced with GENUINE TOYOTA BRAKE FLUID ONLY every 2-3 years. Never mix different brake fluids, there are NO universals here. Your brake pins require lubrication with special grease when the pads are installed. You are best off with the genuine LEXUS parts from teh factory rather than aftermarket stuff, believe me.
Q:When I hit the brakes, do I need to shift to a lower gear and when should I shift?
Thank you all for your replies and opinions.
Q:what will happend when the brake fuild flows back into the master cylinder on an ABS system
FLOWS BACK?? Hope you don't mean from replacing pads type service where you push pistons back in to fit new pads! Coz DON'T, without releasing bleed nipple to depressurize the system, back pressure can permanently damage system . If thats not what your talking about how can fluid flow back?
Q:I have a craftsman riding lawnmower that has the single pedal clutch/brake system. The clutch engages and disengages perfectly but when the pedal is completly depressed there is supposed to be brakes and there are none. Surely I can adjust it.
There should be a threaded rod in the linkage between the foot pedal and the brake mechanism, you need to adjust that further apart
Q:ok so i drive a 2006 Scion XA and Ive been looking everywhere for a Big Brake Kit so i did my research and i found a few So they are Greddy, JBT, Rotora, and Wilwood. Which Brand is better for my car? and if there is another better one can you tell me?.Ive tried Brembo they dont have anything. SO WHICH BRAND IS BETTER!?
Dawn dish soapbut if its soaked into the tire that long, they are probably wasted, and not repairable. If the tires are cracking, they need to be replaced anyway
Q:I have been having trouble shifting out of park.I press on the brakes, lights come on and everything, but I can‘t seem to get it out of park and the brake pedal would get real stiff when I press on it. It used to happen once or twice a week, but now its happening every day. When I press on the brakes I hear a hissing sound which I know is a dead ringer for air in the brakes. Now, my question is this: Since I have air in my brakes, is that the reason why I‘m having trouble putting my car into gear OR could that possibly be a separate unrelated problem? Thanks so much.
A hissing sound when you step on your brakes is a defective brake booster, this should not have any effect of being not able to move the shift selector for the trans from one gear to another. You have a seperate problem.gl
Q:I drive 2006 Chevy Monte Carlo and the ABS light keeps coming on and a warning appears that reads Service Brake Assist.I just changed the pads and my brakes are fine.Also the mileage just passed 75,000 miles.Could this be a preset warning that appears at a certain mileage?
No. It means your brake booster is not working properly, and that your anti-lock system is not working properly. I'd suggest a trip to your mechanic for evaluation.

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