• WQ Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps With Good Quality System 1
  • WQ Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps With Good Quality System 2
  • WQ Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps With Good Quality System 3
WQ Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps With Good Quality

WQ Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps With Good Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Product Description:

All details for WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump:

 

1. Product Introduction of WQ series Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.

 

2. Technical Performance of WQ series Sewage Submersible Pump

Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm

Capacity: 10~8000m³/h

Head: 5~60m

Power: 1.5~315kw

Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm

 

3. Operation Condition of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump 

1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.

2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.

3). PH value: 4~10.

4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.

5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.

 

4. Structure Characteristic of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.

1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.

2).  Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.

3).  The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.

4).  A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.

5).  The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.

6).  Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.

7).  The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.

8).  Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.

9).  The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions.

 

5. Impeller Design Characteristics of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

For the feculence pass freely, it must be widen the flowing passage of impeller, for the big pump, can used for double-vane, or three-vane, for the small pump, it used for single(double) flowing passage, like a bent pipe has same section, it has a good passing characteristic, avoid stop, convolve caused by slowing current possibly. The especially flowing passage of impeller, cooperate with logical volute, made the paper, soft goods, garbage bag and other material in sewage can passing freely and the pump have no vibration in the course of running-in and load through the impeller balance between dynamic and static state.

 

6. FAQ

1) Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

2) If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

3) Do you have pumps with grinders?

Yes, the WQ models.

WQ Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps With Good Quality

WQ Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps With Good Quality


Q: on my 92' toyota celica, i got the heater core by pass fixed and also a new radiator because both were leaking, and now my mechanic tells me i also need a new water pump , which can be really expensive! apparently it is leaking water too, so i was thinkng just filling up my car with water before driving until i can afford to get it fixed.. can this shortcut be done to prevent my water pump causing me further problems?
You can do that, but you can't fill it with pure water because in time you'll have only water in the system which can cause problems. Antifreeze also increases boiling point of the water/antifreeze mixture thus protecting the engine... You should always add 50/50 mixture. Anyway, bad pump is generally bad for cooling. It is better to have leaking radiators than bad pump.
Q: I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
/i thini it might... I would just get a bolt from a local carquest, autozone, aidauto where ever cant be anymore than 5 bucks... best best better than overheating your engine and getting stuck for a couple of bucks
Q: What's the difference between a double suction pump and a single suction pump?
The difference between a single suction pump and a double suction pump is that the double suction pump has two intake ports, while the single suction has only one intake.
Q: Why my Water Pump is leaking again? It was replace 2 month ago brand new water pump?
was gasket replaced? if we are sure pump seal is failing..( check underneath at leak hole for drips e.g. tissue and mirror) then it can be swapped for a replacement and send back unit as unsuitable for purpose. are we running a hot engine? do we have an air lock? where air locks occur out temp gauge can show cooler than normal but engine in fact over heating. decent garage can sort.
Q: Hi there: my water pump is leaking, and my coolant lelel keeps droping, same problem. Im not sure if coolant flows through the water pump?
Coolant flows thru, and sometimes is all coolant, very little water content.
Q: I've bleed the lines, and gotten rid of all the air bubbles. I've replaced the thermostat correctly, (triple checked) and I don't think it's the water pump because it isn't leaking what so ever. My temperature gauge is not moving what so ever, and the coolant reservoir over flows heavily, and I can hear a thumping sound in the radiator.
Flush out the radiator.. check to confirm a bhg with a compression test.
Q: What does water flow mean?
The amount of water delivered by the pump during the unit time, that is, the flow of the pump. Generally, there are three kinds of time units, namely, seconds, minutes and hours. In our country, the unit of flow adopts the international metric units, liters, milliliters, cubic, thousand cubic meters, etc., and different units are used according to different usage environments.
Q: Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.
Neither one if you are trying for more than about 32 feet (10 meters) because movement of water is determined by air pressure and the vacuum/suck and the former limiting. Pumps that move water vertically more that 30 feet or so PUSH the water. Which is why well pumps of any depth are hung on the end of the riser pipe with a power cable running down to them.
Q: Iv got a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.7 in it and recently it started leaking coolant, its been determined that i need a new water pump. Iv gotten quotes from various places and various prices but there all telling me i need to replace different things. One guy said i need a timing kit, the other guy said i dont need a timing kit but need valave covers and a couple other things, another said i dont need anything but the pump itself. Im lost and the leaks getting worse and i need to make a decision but dont know what to do. Some insight from you helpful people would be great!
typically labor is 300-400 for that task. that scenario would dictate when one is done, both should be done. needed or not. getting them on the same maintenance schedule so to speak. thing is, is that the 2.7 uses timing a chain. not a belt. belts require changes. chains may or may not. in this case, there is no maintenance interval for the timing chain.
Q: As a fact; I must remove the timing belt in order to remove both camshaft sprockets,then the metal timing belt cover which cover partially the water pump.My main question: Do I have to lift the engine and remove the two water pump studs- Which normally holding the right engine mounting.And where I can rent ,or buy a camshaft locking tool with low price
Yes, I have done at least 100 of these water pumps. You are correct, remove the timing belt, cam gears and rear cover is the easiest route. I have done them without removing the rear metal shield all the way, and only removing the front cam gear as well. You can remove the front cam gear, and all 6 bolts to the rear shield and shift the cover enough to get the pump out from behind the cover. You shouldn't need to remove the water pump studs, but if you do get a set of stud removers. I bought a set from snap on for around $50 or so years ago. Sears also sells a set. You don't need a cam locking tool. You can make one out of a bar with two bolts through it to stop cam from rotating while you loosen the 17mm nut on the cam gear. I usually just use an impact gun on the bolt, and no tool is needed to hold it. Remember, the 1MZ-FE engine is an interference engine, and the timing belt must be aligned perfectly or the pistons WILL hit valves and engine will self destruct. If you are near ILlinois I can help with repairs if needed.

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