Vertical Turbine Pump for Water Treatment

Vertical Turbine Pump for Water Treatment System 1

Vertical Turbine Pump for Water Treatment

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 500 unit/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Fire Fighting Pump High Quality

Multistage Double Suction Pump High Quality

Submersible Solar Water Pump

Double Suction Split Casing Pump

Centrifugal water pump CWP2

Sewage water pump, diesel engine, agricutrual water pump

WQ(D)-S Stainless Steel Casting Sewage Submersible Electric Pump

LQF High Pressure Chemical Pump, Peristaltic Dosing Pump

Introduction of Vertical Turbine Pump for Water Treatment

FY is the sump pump solution for thin or slidly contaminated liquids. The pump is part of SUHUA PUMP sump-system, a modular programme of single stage centrifugal pumps with a high degree of interchangeability of parts between the different pump constructions.

The FY is a range of centrifugal sump pumps, with the pump casing submerged into the liquid and a dry motor construction. The hydraulic parts of these submersible pumps make use of the pump casing and impellers of the Z ranges, their respective hydraulic fields meeting API 610, (ISO13709), N or ES ranges are of non API ranges.

The pump is driven by a customer specified or standard IEC flange electric motor" V1(IM3011)" placed on a support mounted on the bearing bracket. The power is transmitted through a flexible coupling and a long shaft. The base plate can be executed in a rectangular shape or a standardized ANSI B16.5 or an ASME B16.47 series A or B blind flange.

Technical data of Vertical Turbine Pump for Water Treatment

Max. Capacity 300m3/h, in case of non API conditions 1500m3/h
Max. Head 250m
Max. Temperature 250° C
Max. Speed 3600rpm
Design pressure up to 16 bar

General industry of Vertical Turbine Pump for Water Treatment

FY pumps can be used for all kinds of sump duties. Another known application is pumping cooling water when river or lake water is used for chilled cooling water processes.

Off shore:
In off shore industries FY pumps are used for several duties where it is desirable to have the electric motor at distance of the pumped liquid.

Petrochemical industry
FY pumps are often used for draining waste water collecting basins. Typical process duties are e. G. Drain pump or hydrocarbon condensate.

Electric motor of Vertical Turbine Pump for Water Treatment

Mounted on a steel made or casted motor support
Close tolerance fit
Customer specified or standard IEC flange motor "V1(IM 3011)"

Q: 2 different pulleys are in the way of the 2 remaining long bolts. at each end of the pump. tensioner did not need to be moved as belt is already off. Motor mount is 1/2 way removed and motor has dropped slightly gt; Am reading a jack must be placed under motor with wood via oil pan ( am hoping no other damage was done) Am told there is a certain device available to remove the pulleys? ... -Would appreciate anyone's info and advice on the remaining steps to this procedure on this make and model engine. as I have come into it obviously with it having begun the wrong way!! Thanks!!: to get the water pump out you need to remove the water pump pulley first it has four 10 mm bolts (I have seem them with 8 mm bolt with a large shoulder on them too ) you can break the bolts loose one of 2 ways 1) put a long screwdriver between the two of the bolt to hold the pulley in place while u break one loose then spin the pulley around rinse and repeat once there all loose u can turn them out by hand and pull off the pulley some time u have to give the pully a little tap to come off you shouldn't need to take off the motor mount unless u plan on chaging the serpintine belt ? be sure once you get the pump off you clean the block side of the surface really good with a scraper make sure u get all the old gasket off the block side so it will seal right when u install the new pump I also recommend a tube of ultra black rtv sealant and only black I have used blue silicone before on many occasion and it has failed me I only use black rtv plus it makes it a lot easier if you have to replace the pump in the future as it come off a little easyier hope this helps a little good luck may the car gods be with you also I would recommend doing a back flush with warm or hot water and using the old school green antifreeze either full or 50/50 mix Dexcool orange has a very well know issue of eating gaskets and putting engine into a vapor lock very costly to fix

Q: My water stopped working and my tank emptied. I replaced the pressure switch and the gauge. It still didn't work. The well is about 110'. I pulled the pump and replaced it (1/2 HP, 10 gpm, 2-wire). It still doesn't work. The old pump was 15 years old. The one before only lasted 7 years. The water has a lot of sediment. I have never done this before, but it seemed straightforward enough. The wires on the pump were not differentiated in any way (same color). Could I have put the wires together incorrectly? Could I have put the switch in wrong? It doesn't click on when the breaker is turned on. What else could be wrong? Could the breaker be bad? It wasn't kicked out.: A two wire pump usually has a 120 volt motor. The neutral wire from the motor goes to the neutral wire at the disconnect switch. The other wire from the motor goes to one terminal screw of the pressure switch. The disconnect switch hot wire goes to the terminal screw right next to the first one. ( either the two terminals on the left or the two on the right. ) Sometimes people will switch the neutral wire as well. If the voltage is good, pressure switch contacts are clean - like no bugs having been smashed or caught up in between, then you might expect a break in the wire or the wire splice at the motor wire connection. If your old pump burned out you may have needed new wire also. Sometimes the wire will burn apart inside the insulation and make a bubble. If your old wire was in good shape, or you replaced it, you should have used a submersible splice to connect to the motor wires. Crimp on wire connectors should be crimped tight. Every now and then I find one that didn't get crimped on one side. Rubber tape followed by plastic tape over that splice is good. Some people like the plastic tubes with compression ends for a splice covering.

Q: Just touch this area, a lot of places do not understandFor example, I have a water pump, for 11kw, choose circuit breaker, then what model should be chosen more appropriate, it is best to recommend a Schneider, universal DW recommend oneCan explain in detail, better, I checked online selection manual, there are many places that feel fuzzyIn addition, 37KW, 22KW, 1.5KW each choose what type?Hope predecessors give advice: Schneider circuit breaker is not selected, I do not know how much current to drive the 11kw pump, and there is no other load?

Q: how do you change the water pump: When you change the timing belt you as well change the water pump as well. If you take it to anyone for timing belt change they will ask you if you want to change water pump because its convenient to change it out at that time. But if you dont have any knowledge how to work with the timing dont mess with it take it to someone who is knows what there doing because paying couple hundred dollars is better then paying thousands for engine rebuild or new engine.

Q: Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?: Note that the main purpose of a water pump in your car is to keep the engine cool. The heat that you get through the heater comes off the smaller hoses on the water pump. If your car isn't overheating chances are the pump is ok. Check your engine temp after the car has ran for awhile. The temp guage should go up when the car is warming up, then the guage will drop when the thermostat opens. It won't drop alot but you should be able to see it. Another thing you can try is to follow the heater hoses to where they go into the firewall and touch them after the car has ran for awhile. If your heater is on full they should both feel about the same temp. There is a control valve on the heater hoses that regulate the flow of water to the heater core and this valve may not be working properly.

Q: I am replacing the water pump and want to know exactly where the two o-rings go: There are several rubber seals on a water pump. The biggest irregular shaped seal is obviously for the main portion of the pump (this can not be misinterpreted for something else). The next in size is the o-ring for the thermostat. And 2 additional O-rings (one smaller than the other) are for the return pipes. While removing/pulling out the pump, take care that the pipes do not get pulled outward by the pump. And when putting in the pump just gingerly align the pipes to the holes in the pump and you are good to go.

Q: I'm having problems with my washer not filling, instead water is going directly out the drain. i want to see if something could be stuck in the pump. I have never looked at one before so I am not exactly sure what to look for. If you'd like you can see my previous post regarding this issue iv'e been dealing with all day. I dont have the money to hire a professional so I am trying like heck to figure it out myself.Thanks: Sounds like the pump is operating during the fill cycle. if there is something clogging the pump, you wouldn't be losing water, it would never drain.

Q: I want to know the disadvantages of a wind powered water pump and if you have any questions you would ask to someone presenting to you about a wind powered water pump(They should be really hard and smart questions) please include them in your answer.Thanks in advance.: The disadvantage is that it will not work with no wind. I would ask: 1. expected life 2. maintenance cost 3. capacity (liters/hour) at the mean wind speed on installation site 4. height it can pump the water (so that I can check the possibility of having a reservoir for the no wind period)

Q: If you use a water pump to move water through a circular trench, essentially making a little river, and then place some kind of turbine or water wheel or something to generate electricity from the moving water, couldn't you use the electricity generated by the turbine to power the pump, thus requiring no outside power?: Perpetual Water Pump

Q: Pump performance parameters have three sets of data, how to understand the flow, lift, flow speed: Mainly expressed the ability of the pump, mainly as a basis for selecting the pump users.Lift represents the performance of the pump to boost water pressure. Such as the pump head H=38 meters, that the pump outlet pressure normal to 0.38MPa.The flow rate represents the water supply capacity of the pump. Such as 100 m3/h. The general flow pump design, and the corresponding flow, little significance.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit