Vertical Split Case Centrifugal Pumps Double Suction
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
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Specification
Item:
Vertical Split Case Centrifugal Pumps Double Suction
Material:
Cast Iron
Power:
Electric
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Application:
Customer Required
Vertical Split Case Centrifugal Pumps Double Suction
Application
Single Stage Double Suction Split Case Pump is used for conveying water or the physical and chemical properties similar to water and other liquids suitable for factories, mines, urban water supply, power stations, agricultural irrigation and water conservancy.
Characteristic
Compact structure,beautiful outline,stable operation,low noise;
Both inlet and outlet of this pump are placed under the axial line,so it is unnecessary to remove the inlet and outlet pipeline and motor;
The shaft seal of water pump has fine mechanical seal and soft stuffing seal,which can be selected according to different condition by user;
The impeller is static-balance calibrated,fixed on the shaft with round nut,and its axial position can be adjustedvia the round nut;
The pump is direct drived by motor via resilient coupling,it can be drived by internal combustion engine if it is necessary.
Technical Data
| Capacity | 50-20000m3/h |
| Head | 10-230m |
| Speed | 2900/1450/980/740/580/3500/1750/1180/890/710rpm |
Material
Casing: Cast iron/ ductile cast iron/cast steel/stainless steel/duplex stainless steel
Impeller: Cast iron/ ductile cast iron/brone/stainless steel/duplex stainless steel
Shaft:C-steel/stainless steel
The rotation direction
Viewed from motor, the direction of the pump is anti-clockwise,that is the suction in the left, the discharge in the right.
The rotating direction of the type pump is clockwise, that is the suction in the right, the discharge in the left.
Also can move the driver to another edge according to the user’s requires. Then, the rotating direction, the suction and discharge direction is in the opposite as the described above.
Photo
- Q: I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.
- you could call your interior reach Dealership and that they supply you the hard artwork for this fix. maximum all shops use the Chilton hard artwork classes for hard artwork time on maintenance. make certain you shop around for sturdy section fees. i advise my consumers to discover this suggestion hard artwork/areas cost. then they are able to call around and shop for the suited cost, if the hard artwork cost is physically powerful however the section is outrageous, then grant the section (do no longer tell the shop which you would be offering the section or they could attempt to advance the hard artwork cost). sturdy success
- Q: can anyone show me the steps on how to remove the water pump on a 1995 dodge intrepid 3.5l engine?
- On a '95 Intrepid equipped with the 3.5L 24-valve V6, the timing belt needs to be removed to access the water pump. The water pump itself only has three bolts securing it to the block. To access the timing belt, only requires removing the A/C compressor belt, and then the alternator/power steering pump belt, if I recall correctly. The trickiest part of the job will be re-installation. The timing belt tensioner is located on the bottom right/front corner of the engine, which requires being compressed and held with a paper clip. I wouldn't recommend this as a do-it-yourself type job if you do not know how to re-time the engine.
- Q: Water pump part is stainless steel, which part is it?
- An overcurrent unit is a part of a liquid that passes through a pump when it is in contact with the liquid. Such as pump body, pump cover, impeller, shaft, shaft sleeve, impeller mother, key and expansion tube, etc..
- Q: Does it take more power to pump water with a 1 /12 hp bg motor/pump than one that is a spare pump/motor running dry,not connected to the system? I am trying to figure out how long it will run with an power inverter during a power failure.
- Your Bell and Gosset pump runs on 110 volts and circulates the water through the heating system. It will not run dry because the motor is seperate and spinning an impeller.I don't understand what you are trying to accomplish.
- Q: We have a 2001 mazda tribute that has been leaking coolant and overheating. we thought it was just the radiator, so we replaced it, but it is still doing it. It leaks pretty rapidly, and overheats pretty fast too (in 1 to 2 miles of city traffic) Does this sound more like a hose or the water pump? how difficult will it be to replace the water pump?
- With the engine running at idle take a look at your coolant resevoir and follow the lines. If it is a hose leak you should be able to see it no problem. When is the last time the radiator was flushed? You could have a blockage in there somewhere too. Depending on how handy you are will determine how difficult the water pump is to replace if that is the problem. Some help can be found online by looking for a Mazda forum. Good luck
- Q: i a wayne above ground pump i need to know how to run all my water lines
- A lot depends on your location from the well. Best bet for water lines is 3 feet below ground level This the frost line, where water will not freeze in the pipe. If above ground you need to make sure the pipes are below the level of the pump and the tank. The reason is: you will have to drain the water every winter to stop freezing pipes. Underground is best if you run water to your home, so you will have a constant supply of water without frozen pipes. Also throughout the winter cold snap, keep a 60 watt lamp in your well house on to stop frost from forming. This give off a little heat and saves on frost related repairs. Lag all pipes visible pipes to at least 4 of lagging material. Best of luck.
- Q: A water pump that consume 2kW of electric power when operating is claimedto take in water from a lake and pump it to a pool whose free surface is 30 m above the free surface of the lake at a rate of 50 L/s. Determine if this claim is reasonable.You have to show the minimum power required is 14.7 kWand i can't get it.
- A liter of water mas a mass of 1Kg. How much work must be done to raise 50 Kg of water through a height of 30 m? You can say: Work done (W) = potential energy gained (mgh), Or you can say that Work done is the weight force (mg) * the distance moved against the force (h) Either way, W = m * g * h where m is the mass; g is the acceleration due to gravity {9.8 m/s?}; h is the height W = 50 * 9.8 * 30 = 14700 J If you need to do that amount of work in one second, that's a rate of working of 14700 J/s A joule/second is a watt. Minimum power required = 14700 W = 14.7 kW
- Q: I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.
- Do you have the 3.4 or the 3.8? Oh well. No one bothers to give that sort of vital information on here... Don't forget to buy RTV when you go buy the pump. Anyway, the 3.4: To Remove: Drain the cooling system. Remove the drive belt guard if equipped. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Remove or disconnect the following: Drive belt. Water pump pulley bolts and pulley. Water pump bolts, pump and gasket. Clean the water pump mating surfaces. To Install: Install or connect the following: Water pump gasket and pump. Water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) Water pump pulley and bolt until snug. Drive belt. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. Lbs.). If removed, install the drive belt guard. Fill the cooling system. Inspect for leaks. For the 3.8: To Remove: Drain the cooling system. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Remove or disconnect the following: Drive belt. Water pump pulley bolts. Water pump pulley. Power steering pump and reposition. Water pump bolts. Water pump. Water pump gasket. Clean and inspect the water pump mating surfaces. To Install: Install or connect the following: Water pump gasket. Water pump. Tighten the long water pump bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft. Lbs.) Tighten the short water pump bolts to 22 Nm (16 ft. Lbs.) Water pump pulley. Water pump pulley bolts. Tighten the bolts to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.) Power steering pump. Drive belt. Fill the cooling system. You're lookin' at eight bolts on the pump in most vehicles your make/model.
- Q: I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat and the water pump seems to be leaking. The lower radiator hose has been replaced but it still leaks a fairly substantial amount. From what I can tell the pump is still doing its job but I'm losing coolant. Is there a way I can determine if i just need a new gasket or a new pump altogether without ripping the front end off? Any feedback is appreciated.
- Replace the pump. While your at it, since the front end (actually the bumper cover) is off, get the timing belt done, with rollers, tensioner, thermostat, and G12 coolant.
- Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
- Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.
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Vertical Split Case Centrifugal Pumps Double Suction
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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