V Series Submersible Sewage Pump with Cutting Device

V Series Submersible Sewage Pump with Cutting Device System 1

V Series Submersible Sewage Pump with Cutting Device

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Basic Info. of V Series Submersible Sewage Pump with Cutting Device

Performance:Drainage Pump

Start Up:Electric Pump

Media:Water Pump

Application:Submersible Pump, Sewage Pump

Type:Blade Pump

Material:Stainless Steel

Power:Electric

Structure:Single-stage Pump

Theory:Centrifugal Pump

Assembly:Liquid Pumps

Industry:Garden Pump

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info. of V Series Submersible Sewage Pump with Cutting Device

Packing:Export Carton

Standard:CE, SGS

Production Capacity:10000PCS/Year

Product Description

Application of V Series Submersible Sewage Pump with Cutting Device

Applied to pumping such liquid which is not clean, with solid matter or frictional matter, low viscous, lcorrosive, crystallizable, chemically neutral and close to water. Such as:

1. domestic wastewater treatment system

2. School,hospital,community wastewater treatment system

3. Irrigation and gardening

Features of V Series Submersible Sewage Pump with Cutting Device

1. 100% copper wire

2. Cold-rolled silicon steel sheet, with high-speed punching, improve the efficiency and precision

3. Double sides mechanical seal graphite&ceramic

4. Demagnetization of stainless steel nuts

5. Anti-rust treatment castings and electrophoresis

6. With a cutting device at the bottom of pump

FAQ

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

V Series Submersible Sewage Pump with Cutting Device

Q: removed my water pump to replace it. i have the fan and clutch assembly still attached...i have no idea how to remove these...the fan clutch has bolts that hold the fan to it...and i did remove those but im just not sure how to separate this assembly...my water pump pulley has 4 holes...and no bolts so i presume it's pressed on...and there looks to be a very large nut between the pulley and the fan/clutch assembly...any help would be appreciated on this...i'd much rather go to the parts store w/ the old pump instead of guessing.....thnx in advance...: I,m with JOHN R in this one, confirm your radiator fan seize is working and not purely unfastened wheeling all of the time and additionally confirm that there is no air trapped interior the cooling gadget.With engine off crack a heater hose unfastened close to the heater center and pour anti freeze in until it starts to return out the disconnected hose. And the cooling fan could become noticeably louder whilst the engine is heat and in case you shut the engine off it is going to experience stiffer to coach than it does cool. sturdy success.

Q: Hi all, I went on vacation and forgot to turn my water heaters to vacation! When I returned the water was cold coming through the faucet. After some investigation I realised the water heater pump had tripped the trip switch on the main electric panel. I reset it and thought all would be fine. Now it is OK for a day or two and then it trips the electric panel again. Any Ideas on what is the matter and how I might fix it? The water heaters themselves are fine and are burning all OK. Many Thanks!: Your problem could be in the breaker itself. It is possible the breaker is bad and needs replaced. Usually if a heating element burns out it will not tripp the breaker. If an element has burned out you can still use the water heater but your water will not be as hot and will not last as long when running the hot water because it is only heating at 110 instead of 220. If you have knowledge about electricity and have a tester, you can test the elements to see if they are working or not. Make sure you have the breaker to the heater shut off before you try testing the elements. Take the two wires off the element and with the tester check and see if shows any resistance on the test meter. If it shows resistance the element is most likely ok. Check the second element the same way. If you find one with no resistance on the tester then that element could be the problem. Not always, but most of the time the lower element will be the one burned out. Your description doesn't sound like a thermostat problem. New elements are not expensive and you can get them at your local hardware stores, Lowe's or Home Depot stores. If you want to change them out yourself, you will need to drain the water heater to remove the elements. You will also need a wrench (socket) to take the elements out because they screw into the water heater. Take the old elements with you when you go to get new ones so you make sure to get the right elements. To put the new elements in just reverse the procedure. Always make sure before you do anything to shut the breaker off to the water heater. If the new elements does not correct the problem the breaker would be the next thing to look at.

Q: I'm doing a DCP project which is at its concept design stage.In order to estimate the chilled water pump size and ratings roughly, could anybody give me some tips on the average/normal chilled water pump heads for a typical 10000 TR DCP. The length of the longest loop could be around 600 m single run.: to boot to the availability and go back line, if there are different factors in the equipment at the same time with administration valves and warmth exchangers, their rigidity drop also desires to be protected.

Q: How do I know the pump pressure?: The "H=100M" in the parameter is the pressure index of the pump. "H" is the height of the head and the height of 100m. Since the 10M lift is approximately equal to 1Kg/cm2 pressure. Your pump is 10Kg/cm2 pressure.Q=18 M3/H, that is, 18 cubic meters of traffic per hour;H=100M, that is, rated head 100M, high head;P=4.0 KW, that is, the motor power is 4 kw.

Q: First the shop put in a heater core, but it was still leaking and overheating. Next they put in a water pump. Went to get it and now it wines really loud and the engine use to purr like a kitten, couldn't even tell it was running, now the engine shakes the whole car and it died one the way home but started again. The shop said the cam positioning needs reset again and on the way back to the shop it died again. So from leaking anti-freeze to now it vibrates, dies and wines really loud ! Any ideas what they did wrong ?: Yea, this engine has the water pump that is driven off of the timing Chain, before removing the pump you have to install a holding tool to keep the timing gears synchronized, If the pump is removed first without installing the tool, the camshaft timing will be out of sync. and that's what probably happened. NOTE: This sounds like an unqualified shop to work on vehicles, if they can't trace a coolant leak! The first thing that should have been done is a CO2 test on the cooling system to see if the vehicle has any hidden head gasket issues. (Good luck)

Q: Just touch this area, a lot of places do not understandFor example, I have a water pump, for 11kw, choose circuit breaker, then what model should be chosen more appropriate, it is best to recommend a Schneider, universal DW recommend oneCan explain in detail, better, I checked online selection manual, there are many places that feel fuzzyIn addition, 37KW, 22KW, 1.5KW each choose what type?Hope predecessors give advice: If it is a single-phase motor, rated current is 75A; three is about 30A; the contactor should be 1.1-1.5 times the rated current of the motor protection type selection of circuit breaker, circuit breaker: RMM1-100/33002 or 50A motor comprehensive protector, the price is not expensive.The circuit breaker (English Name: circuit-breaker circuit, breaker) refers to the closing, carrying and breaking current conditions and normal circuit switch device, load and breaking current loop abnormal conditions within the stipulated time. The circuit breaker is divided into high voltage circuit breaker and low voltage circuit breaker according to its range of use. The demarcation line of high and low voltage is fuzzy. Generally, more than 3kV is called high-voltage equipment.The circuit breaker can be used to distribute electricity, not frequently start asynchronous motors, the protection of the power line and a motor, can automatically cut off the circuit when they occur serious overload or short circuit and under voltage fault combination, its function is equivalent to the fuse switch and less thermal relay etc.. Moreover, after breaking the fault current, there is no need to change the components. At present, it has been widely used.Distribution is an extremely important link in the generation, transportation and use of electricity. Distribution systems include transformers and various high and low voltage electrical equipment. Low-voltage circuit breakers are a wide range of electrical equipment.

Q: I'm going to buy a pump to take water from a lake and use it to water the grass at my cottage. I would like to run at least 2 hoses at the same time. I'm looking at one that's 3/4 horse. Is this too small? The yard is a little more than an acre.: not only do you have to move a lot of water, but you have to LIFT it over a long distance.... you may need a pump in the middle of your distance, as well....

Q: I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.): I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM

Q: Ok, I took my '93 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L in to get the serpentine belt replaced, as the old one had snapped. They told me that the water pump had locked up and that's what made the belt break. The thing is, I had to get the radiator and water pump replaced this past summer and I am wondering what might've made my water pump lock up since it is new. The Jeep has a lot of miles and I'm slowly having to fix a lot of things, so I'm trying to be sure that I don't fix the pump just to find another problem. Also, the repair place told me the water pump looks brand new, so I know that it was definitely replaced, but should I contact the place the fixed the pump and radiator and see if there's some sort of warranty on the pump?: I have a '93 Cherokee too. So I can answer any question you have about it. Water pump failure is caused be bad seal or bearings. Since it locked up, your bearings were the problem. Maybe the belt was too tight? At any rate, before you give all of your money away on any more probs, give me a ring, K. BTW, I changed my water pump out last month. It was an Autozone special w/lifetime warranty. Since it was a replacement, I didn't pay a dime. Contact me via email with any more Jeep probs and I'll walk you through it. Water pumps on '93 Cherokees are tightened throught the Power Steering pump mounting bracket, no tensioner. Replacements is considerably more than a simple belt swap. You must remove the clutch and elec fan to access the water pump bolts. I had to unbolt the A/C compressor and move it out of way. It took me about 4 hours to do the waterpump and thermostat. Not for the faint of heart. But if you are willing to save a few bucks and have access to a few tools, it's all pretty easy.

Q: Installed new water pump on 90 Jeep. Noticed antifreeze around the edges of the pump. Took it off, replaced with new gasket and sealer, but it seams to be leaking again.: Could be a defective pump. I've had that happen to me already. Might be that one of the surfaces still has some of the old gasket remaining or perhaps some uneven spots. In that case I would recommend high-tack gasket sealer by permatex. Check to see that the antifreeze is not coming from elsewhere like from a by-pass hose or from the intake. It could be possible that the pump was not the only thing at fault. Hope that helps.

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