UV Coating Wood Grain Decorative Fiber Cement Board
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1,Structure of （Cement Boards） Description
1. High strength and light weight
2. Fireproof and waterproof
3. 100% free of asbestos
4. Energy saving.
2,Main Features of the （Cement Boards）
The raw materials of fiber cement board are cellulose fiber, silicate cement, quartz sand, water and some additives. It's a kind of high-tech product which formed through accurate dosing by computer program, hatschek craft and compressed by 14000tons hydraulic machine and autoclaved under high temperature and pressure.
It's 100% free of asbestos, formaldehyde, benzene and other harmful substances and with excellent performance like high strength, large size, light weight, fire and water proofing, green and environmental friendly, high efficient and energy-saving. Therefore, this kind of new material is vigorously developed and recommended by the country.
Thickness: 3.5-30mm
Standard size: 1220*2440mm or 1200*2400mm
Note: other specification is available
3,（Cement Boards） Images
4,（Cement Boards） Specification
Index | Moderate compressed | ||
Density(g/cm3) | 1.44 | ||
Water absorption (%) | 28 | ||
Wet expansion (%) | 0.17 | ||
Water penetration | No water drop on the board surface after 24hours | ||
Modulus of Rupture | Air dried condition | 14 | |
Saturated condition | 10 | ||
Frost resistant | No delamination and crack after 25cycles under freezing and thawing | ||
Index | High density | ||
Density(g/cm3) | 1.64 | ||
Water absorption (%) | 17.8 | ||
Wet expansion (%) | 0.15 | ||
Water penetration | Back side without water drop after 24 hours | ||
Modulus of Rupture | Air dried condition | 20.1 | |
Saturated condition | 15.0 | ||
Frost resistant | No layers and no cracks after 25 cycles under freezing and thawing | ||
Index | Middle density | ||
Incombustibility | Incombustible Class A1 | ||
Water penetration | Back side without water drop after 24 hrs | ||
Modulus of rupture | Air dried condition | 15 | |
Saturated condition | 12 | ||
5,FAQ of （Cement Boards）
1. Interior and exterior wall; Furred ceiling
2. Insulation materials, floor; Road barrier
3. Sound-adsorbing wall & suspended ceiling
- Q: I would like to replace my carpet with a real hard wood floor., but my floor under the carpet is cement. Can any one give me advise as to how I go about this. want to do it myself.
- It can be a big job. You can use an engineered wood floor and glue it down (This is not like laminate more like plywood, the top layer is relatively thick and could be refinished years down the road if needed). First you have to make sure you don't have excessive moisture in the slab. Seal it if needed. I have a glue down hardwood floor my bedroom is 25+ years old and a few years ago did the rest of my house. It's fine. If you want to DIY do some reading about it first. Get a how to book on-line or at a home improvement center. It is certainly doable. The comment about access, regardless of your flooring choice ripping up the slab will obviously ruin the floor, so I don't think that is a consideration. Tile doesn't like being ripped up either.
- Q: Glass fiber reinforced cement (GRC) board is what
- Specializing in the production of GRC plate, the production cycle to reach 5,000 square meters, professional exports to foreign countries.
- Q: over the bath tub is durock cement board enough by itself,or it has to be something else under durock...?
- There's no requirement (USA) to put anything behind the durock located over your tub. If you're planning on using it (not already installed) I would consider switching to green board. It is much cheaper and most of all, lighter. Green board is only sheetrock that has been waterproofed - and it works well. If you are installing durock, ensure you securely attach it to the joists above the tub. Also, if installing any lights, fans etc over the tub, the sheetrock is much easier to cut and affix fixtures. Good luck
- Q: I'm having old (30 plus years), damaged slate tiles removed and replacing it with ceramic tiles. I've discovered there is cement underlayment under the slate tiles. I'm having this work done for me and so far the floor looks like grenades have hit it. There are pot holes. How in the world are you suppose to remove these slates tiles that have been adhered to cement?? And, how do you repair the flooring to eventually lay down cement board and ceramic tiles?? I'm sick to my stomach.
- As long as the cement is intact and not cracked, you can set the new tile right over it. Just knock off any high spots that are left after getting up the old tile, then trowel on new thinset mortar using a 3/8x1/4 square-notched trowel. As long as the existing cement is sound you do not need to remove it; this is an ideal base for new mortar. If it is cracked, this means that the plywood underlayment is moving up and down because it was not secured properly to the floor joists. But if the cement is in good shape there is no need to remove it. (Usually jobs that were done by craftsmen years ago who knew what they were doing are better than anything you can get today; you would not want to rip out a perfectly good base and replace it with something substandard.) As a matter of fact, if the existing tile floor has no loose tiles and no cracks, you really don't even have to remove it if you can go with the additional 1/2 or so in height that a new tile floor would entail. Just mortar right over it.
- Q: Older house, kitchen floor. There's 3/4 diagonal wood on floor joists after hardwood floor is removed. Can I put down 1/2 plywood/ osb and expect the ceramic tile and grout to last? 100% better to use cement board or that synthetic strand board?
- Plywood, yes. OSB, no. Backerboard, no... and here's why: deflection standards. The 1 1/8 thickness you achieve by adding a plywood subfloor brings it up to acceptable level. Common misconception in the industry that backerboard adds to the structural integrity, when in reality, its primary purpose is to provide a good substrate for the thinset to bond to. However, plywood is suitable if you use the proper thinset (important). Since the house is older, I would also recommend an anti-fracture membrane atop the subfloor.
- Q: i am having alotta trouble on the cement like i cant get both feet back on the board.any tips?
- try it on a smoother platform....wood? maybe. try using sneakers or some sort of a shoe that has a rubbery feel on the bottom. because, the concrete here is very scratchy and has many bumps. it gets annoying i cant even stand on a skateboard without hurting 1 part of my body here. haha. tried it. lol
- Q: How do the fluorocarbon paint on the external wall of the cement pressure plate?
- Substrate requirements: Cement pressure plate to be clean, dry, non-polluting.
- Q: I have laid ed cement board down but I did not stagnate the boards.Will this affect the ceramic tile.?
- it's not as stable a surface as if you did stagger the joints. the tiles could buckle or lift near the long joint. if you can do it simply, re do the cement board now, it's easier than later.
- Q: The scope of application of foam cement
- Pipeline backfill. Underground abandoned oil tanks, pipelines (built-in crude oil, chemicals), sewage pipes and other holes easily lead to fire or landslides, the use of foam concrete backfill can solve these troubles, the cost is also less. The density of foam concrete depends on the diameter of the pipe and the groundwater level, usually 600-1100kg / m? ;.
- Q: Is there a easy method to apply hydraulic water stop cement to the area where the wall meets the floor without making a mess. Thank you very much
- No easy way that I know of. Work Fast and only mix a small batch at a time. I've used it and it sets very quickly. It heated up the can I mixed it in, to where I could not hold it without a pot holder glove. It works excellent, but you have to mix and spread quickly.
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UV Coating Wood Grain Decorative Fiber Cement Board
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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