• High Quality Fiber Cement Board System 1
  • High Quality Fiber Cement Board System 2
  • High Quality Fiber Cement Board System 3
High Quality Fiber Cement Board

High Quality Fiber Cement Board

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Products Introduction:

Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.

Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..

Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium density

High density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<D1.5

1.5<D2.0

Water absorption

%

30

25

Non-combustibility

GB 8624-2006, grade A

wet expansion

%

0.25

Beding strength

dry

MPA

Strength grade class III

20

Strength grade class IV

24

Saturation with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards



Q:I currently have aluminum siding on my house, I want to replace it with stucco. I need to do a full tear off because behind the siding is compressed fiberboard. I will need to apply a backboard to stucco over, so the question is, should I apply cement backer board, hardiboard or plywood? Plywood would be the easiest to apply, and possibly the cheapest, but that doesn't mean it would be best. Any stucco pros with some insight?
first answer has it right.good luck.
Q:What are the densities of tiles and cement
The combination of lignocellulosic and Portland cement produces a non-toxic building material plate that does not contain any volatile toxic substances such as asbestos and formaldehyde. Wood fiber cement board will not produce any harmful substances, excellent environmental performance. Wooden cement board contains 71% Portland cement, 19% mineralized wood fiber, 9% moisture and 1% binder. Wood fiber cement board conforms to ASTM E 136 non-flammable building materials standard, excellent structural performance. Soaked in water is not layered, stable uniformity. Wooden cement board can be cut, planing, grinding, drilling, threading, and can be fixed with nails or screws.
Q:Do you have to tape and fill seams on cement board when applying ceramic tile over it like when doing drywall?
With no offense meant to answer 1, Tape NEED NOT be applied to concrete backer board; for the purpose of tiling over. Thin set can be skimmed into the seams and screw holes. Certainly the board should be flush at it's face with any adjacent. If the house is wood frame; I suppose one might think that at some point it might shift; but we hope, not in our lifetime. Steven Wolf
Q:The difference between cement fiberboard and cement pressure plate
Cement fiberboard and cement pressure plate is a product of two names, there is no difference. Plate of cementitious materials are cement, reinforcing materials are fiber (asbestos fiber and / or cellulose fiber).
Q:60 thick foam cement board Ⅱ how much noise
Foam cement board is A-class non-combustible inorganic insulation materials, have good fire performance, 1200 degrees high temperature baking 3 hours, still maintain integrity, used in buildings, can improve the fire performance of buildings. Because of its closed cell rate of> 95%, which has a good thermal insulation properties.
Q:i'm tiling my shower and i know i have to put up cement backboard, but do i need a vapor barrier behind it?do i cut the backerboard so the bottom of it touches the top of the tub or leave a little space between them? do i need to tape in between the boards? any help would be appreciated.
The International Residential Code, as well as almost any of the other Model Codes, requires a vapor barrier to be installed on the warm in winter side of the insulation on any exterior wall. Any approved vapor retarder material will work. On drywall, two coats of most latex paints meet the requirement, also. The backerboard manufacturer will tell you what method of taping is required for their product; generally, it will be with a mesh-type tape embedded in whatever you are using to install the board. (This doesn't have to be thin-set cement, you can also use regular latex based tile adhesive. Just be sure to apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions.) Most tubs and shower pans have a lip on the front, back, and side. The board can sit right on this lip. Pack some of the thin-set or adhesive into this joint, if you need to build it up level with the surface of the backer. This is most important if you are not starting with a full tile on the bottom; the tiles should have at least 80% contact with most adhesives or cements.
Q:What do you use under the tiles, and do you still use grout as well?
Use sand and cement mix with water proof-er in it and use the same to grout.If you want to grout the tiles a different color mix a cement dye in the cement you are using as a grout.
Q:my fiberglass shower pan was cracked and my tiles were coming off. so I took out the tiles and greenboard, and replaced the shower pan. unfortunately, they do not carry the same size of shower pan - I am short about 1/4 inch on all sides. what do I do in order to line up the cement board with the existing drywall? i only plan to replace the area where the old tiles were. i am afraid I have to tear down all the drywall but I really don't want to. thanks.
are you saying the new bord is to short all the way or are you saying the new one is larger? if it is larger then the top is larger or smaller at one end due to settling of the structure . that is an easy fix . you need a protractor . set the new board up and adjust the protractor to the gap and scribe down to the end touching the adjacent wall . then cut away . then doo the other side . but if not then just get some compound and fill in the gap . make sure it is fiber fill compound you mix yourself . then treat it to a coat of sealent befor covering .
Q:i glued a piece of regular printer paper to a piece of matboard as part of an art project. since i applied rubber cement to both the paper and the board, it bonded quite strongly. the problem is that now i have to remove the paper with the least amount of damage to the matboard. the paper is white and the board is black. its been over a week since i glued the two together. HELP!! i need this for school and it has to look good...any suggestions??im going to throw the paper away, so that can be damaged in the process. no problem.
hair dryer to warm it and peel real slow...?
Q:I am making a custom kitchen island and I planned to tile the top of it. The top of the island is going to be made of thick plywood for strength and I was told by the man at the hardwood store where I bought all the supplies that I needed to place cement board down on the plywood before I placed the tile down. I had bought a trim to go around the table top, hoping that it would be flush with the tile once the time went into place, however using the cement board makes the trim flush with the cement board and after the tile is installed, it would be about 5 mm taller than the trim. Do I really need to use the cement board? Would it be a bad idea to place the tile and mortar directly on the plywood?
After multiple thousands of sq. ft. of tile, a simple, direct answer is... Plywood is OK/ Tile mortar will not seriously degrade plywood in the dry time. I suggest a poly based mortar and grout however since spills are possible. Steven Wolf

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