High Quality Fiber Cement Board
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Products Introduction:
Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.
Features
Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material
Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.
Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof
Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.
Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.
Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.
Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.
Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..
Product parameters
Item | Unit | Requirement | ||||
Medium density | High density | |||||
Density | g/cm3 | 1.2<D≤1.5 | 1.5<D≤2.0 | |||
Water absorption | % | ≤30 | ≤25 | |||
Non-combustibility | GB 8624-2006, grade A | |||||
wet expansion | % | ≤0.25 | ||||
Beding strength | dry | MPA | Strength grade class III | 20 | Strength grade class IV | 24 |
Saturation with water | 12 | 14 | ||||
Applications
Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards
- Q: Why different buildings sound a lot worse?
- Block varieties are more, according to the functional division of load-bearing and non-load-bearing block. Commonly used blocks are mainly ceramic, fly ash, slag, sand and other concrete hollow and solid blocks; gypsum, calcium silicate and other blocks. The volume of the block wall varies with the weight of the wall. Surface density and clay brick wall similar to the load-bearing block wall, the sound insulation performance and clay brick wall is also close. Cement mortar Plastering Lightweight blocks filled with wall insulation performance, largely depends on the thickness of the wall surface plaster layer. Both sides of the wiping 15 ~ 20mm thick cement mortar after the volume is about 43 ~ 48dB, the surface density of less than 80kg / m2 light block wall insulation is usually below 40dB.
- Q: Glass fiber reinforced cement (GRC) board is what
- GRC is glass fiber reinforced cement products. He is composed of anti-alkali glass fiber and low alkalinity cement composed of a new type of hydraulic composite material, its main features are high strength, crack resistance, fire resistance, good toughness, not afraid of cold, easy to shape, can be made into thin, , The shape of a variety of complex building components and products, in the civil construction of agriculture, animal husbandry and fishery and environmental art and other fields have a wide range of uses. GRC Finished material is made of this composite material such as: GRC European-style components, high-strength GRC curtain wall panels, etc.
- Q: I'm laying slate tile over linoleum that was installed about 6 months ago....the linoleum is in very good condition, very smooth with no rips or lifting. I've done some research and figured I could put down cement board and then lay the tile on that. The floor under the linoleum is cement. Is there a special drill/special screw necessary to attach the cement board to the cement foundation?
- Here's how a tile contractor would do it. First off you need to look how the tile floor will finish to the other floorings it will tie into. Ideally you want the same level when finished. It is common though to have a slight offset (up to 1/4 is acceptible). So remove whatever you need to be 1 lower then the other floor, before you install 1/2 hardibacker and the tile. What you listed above is a waste of time and money. You don't need plywood and hardibacker. You use one or the other. The industry has gotten away from tile directly on plywood, so don't consider that. Use the hardibacker. My guess is when you remove the vinyl and hardwood, you will be about 1 down. Screw the subfloor down then attach the hardibacker with 1 5/8 screws and lay the tile. If it is within the tolerance I noted above (1/4), you can buy a transition strip to apply at the change from tile to existing flooring. If your floor is up and down, do this, use a level as a straight edge on the floor, marking the high and low spots. The high spots need to be feathered out and the low spots need to be filled in. You should do this before you install the hardibacker. You can listen to a kid that worked with his dad or a listen to guesses from people that tiled a floor or two. You can even listen to a woman on here that claims to have been a remodel contractor, master electrician, building inspector and everything else she claims to have been, or you just take free advice from a guy that does tile floors. Your call.
- Q: some say lay 15 pound paper what gives?
- It's a cushion -bed for the cement board. Less chance of it cracking if cushioned.
- Q: 60 thick foam cement board Ⅱ how much noise
- Cement foam insulation Due to the formation of numerous porous bubbles, so the sound-absorbing effect than the average concrete about 5 times higher than the sound insulation coefficient is greater than 45dB.
- Q: I have 9 asbestos tile on concrete floor. Can I put cement board over tile this then install ceramic tile?
- Yes,be sure asbestos tile is as flat as possible and be sure to screw down boards correctly.For best results,pull up tile.
- Q: I'm ready to tile my kitchen soon. My husband and I have torn up the carpet and 2 layers of linoleum, leaving only some leftover glue from the linoleum and the wood sub floor. Do we really need to lay cement board over the wood sub floor or can we just go ahead and tile right on the wood? (FYI: it will be either ceramic or porcelain tile)
- Yes, unfortunately you will. If you tile directly onto the sub floor, the tile is likely to develop cracks. The sub-floor is probably 3/4 material, so an additional 1/2 thick cement board should work.
- Q: i am wondering the durablability difference. Is one more sturdier than the other?
- In a way, fiber cement board is better than stone veneer. Houses are rotting down everywhere stone veneer is installed incorrectly. There's a lot of hacks out there gluing the stuff straight onto wood, making it the next home repair nightmare. If done correctly, it might be more durable but it's not sturdier.
- Q: I want to cut off a lip of about 1/8 by 1/2 to accomodate the upper lip of a tub. I plan to do this with several passes of an abrasive wheel in a circular saw set to 1/8. My question is will I be able to machine the board like this or will I get a crumbling mess? the Hardiback is 1/2.
- Hardibaker peels like an onion in layers. We use it half thick often and we just cut it to size and then using a razor knife pushed in between the layers and pull them apart like opening a peanut butter sandwich. This may help you. If you run that saw on the line where you need the lip to start on the board then use your knife to split the layers and peel them down to the cut you made. This may be an easier solution then eating away the excess material a little at a time. Good Luck.
- Q: We have a home built in 1999 in the Gulf Coast area. On either side of the front entrance are flat cement board posts and above is a lintel. Last year I noticed the lintel was starting to have a gap between the brick and lintel itself as well as pulling away the top of one of the posts. I used heavy-duty exterior adhesive to try to reattach (used the ladder against it as pressure). I caulked and painted afterwards. Now, the separation is back, but much worse. I'm not even sure who to call to look at this. If I know why this happened, I could better figure out the next steps. Any ideas (I can find nothing through my research).
- it probably is a matter of trapped moisture and oxidation of the lentil.most residential construction in that area is done on which is known as a floating footer pad pour because of the hydrostatic tables and sand to alleviate subsidence,and if it is settling you would see other indicators such cracks,doors and windows not opening or sticking. your best bet is to remove it clean the lentil and prime it dry out completely and reinstall cement board after removing a 1/8 of a inch from each side.then use PL400 of a Liquid nail product and brace evenly then caulk with a 30 year pure silicone product for exterior application
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High Quality Fiber Cement Board
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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