• fiber cement board System 1
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fiber cement board

fiber cement board

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
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Supply Capability:
120000pcs pc/month

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1LUTAI Fiber cement board is a stable performance and light weight building &decoration board used cement as major and natural reinforced, with the process of pulping,emulsion,forming,pressurization,autoclaving,

drying and surface treatment.

Thickness : 4.5mm-30mm

Size :1200*2400mm, 1220*2440mm,  any size that u need .

Surface : 40#-120# sanding surface , polished surface , tapered edge .

2Product characteristics :

Density : 1.2-1.5G/CM3

Fire-proof  Rate : A-Class incombustible (GB8624-1997)

Incombustibility(min): 240 minutes (GB/T9978-1999)

Water content : 30%         Swelling ratio: 0.4%

Anti-bending Strength: 16MPA Frost resistance : Don’t appear cracking and delamination after 25 cycles of freezing and thawing . (GB/T7019-1997)

Radioactivity: standard of GB6566-2001 (A-class Decoration Materials)3,Recommed application:

Partition board , exterior wall cladding , panel, suspended ceilings ,lightweight grouting panel, interior dry wall decoration board ,interior wall after painting and coating .

Q: Do I have to put cement backer board down before laying ceramic tile or can I go over existing vinyl floor?
you can go over your old vinyl floor, just make sure its clean and flat and has no chance of infiltration. If you can't assure its steadfastness take it up
Q: When I was replacing vanity in small bathroom, I discovered that old vanity was sitting on top of the wooden sub-floor while the rest of the floor (with ceramic tile) is about whole inch above the sub-floor. I'm planning to install tile (never did it before) and I've read that you attach cement backer board to sub-floor and use adhesive to attach tiles. However cement boards are sold in 1/2 thickness. What should I do to make whole sandwich (board, adhesive, tile) to be on the same level as rest of the tile floor? I'd much appreciate any suggestions! :)
Screw down a piece of 1/2 plywood to the subfloor and then screw down the cement board on top of that. If you are still a tad low you can always spread on a layer of thinset mortar to bring it up to the same height as the rest of the floor. Whenever I do a bathroom I always remove the vanity and tile under it just like the rest of the room. That way, everything is level and if you ever want to replace the vanity with a smaller one or a pedestal sink the floor is good to go. What I have found, and you have found too, is that most people are just too damned lazy to bother doing that.
Q: This would be around the bathtub area. Not sure whether to use the same cement board tape and mortar at the ceiling line or to switch to regular wallboard joint compound. Which is correct? Thanks!
If your tiling the ceiling you can use thin set to tape that corner joint. If you were not tiling the ceiling it d be different. Any questions you can email me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: Span 3 meters of the prefabricated plate can withstand much pressure
The prefabricated board is the floor used in the early building. Prefabricated board, is the project to use the module or plate. Because it is processed in the factory after forming directly to the construction site for installation, so called prefabricated panels. Production of prefabricated panels, the first with a wooden nail made of hollow model, hollow part of the model in the cloth after the steel filled with hollow parts, and so dry after knocking to the board, the rest is the prefabricated plate. Prefabricated panels are useful in construction, such as cement boards covered by ditches on the road; cement boards on the roof are made of prefabricated panels.
Q: This is behind my vinyl siding and above my drop tile ceiling.
It would most likely be asbestos because nobody in there right mind would cover Hardi with vinyl.
Q: the durock cement board is 1/2 inch and the drywall is 5/8 of an inch...So the shower wall is about an 1/8 of an inch recessed intothe wall. What can I do to fix the situation without redoing anymore walls. If I butt up the bullnose tile against the drywall about half of the tile's thickness sticks out...actually looks ok. I don't know if i should try to make a gradient from the drywall to the tile. There are also some gap between the two types of boards.....fill it with mortar?
Yes you float it and float it back a bit on the durock. Use the same thinset mortar that you use for the tile. Never use a mastic as some hackers may suggest.Mastic is a water soluble product and will fail in a wet area such as a shower. What I do if the area permits is to put a pc of painters tape on the edge of the dry wall. Leave room for cement board tape. Then float the ares and pull off the painters tape and run the SBN over the durock tape edge and onto the dry wall just a bit to cover all and make a clean transition. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: I need to raise a bathroom floor about 3/4 inch. I have already poured a thin layer of self leveling concrete over what appeared to be some sort of concrete floor that had some uneven areas (60 year old house). I have read about how you are not supposed to put backer board on concrete because you can't secure it. My question is this: could you lay the backer board on top of the SLC, leave some small gaps between the boards, and then pour another layer of SLC on top of the backer board, thereby cementing it into place??
I d rather see you pore a SLC to the depth you need it.. Some compounds you can pore to the depth of 1 in 1 pore and some you need to do in 2 pores. Now if you need to do a full 3/4 depth you can do a tile mud bed , but this is a little challenging for a 1 st time. If you have some good DIY skills then you can probably do it. Just going over slab requires a few different steps when doing a mud bed over slab. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: This is a 1950s sink.
I assume that you mean the tiles are attached to the counter-top. The process is called demolition, and it can get dusty. Safety glasses are a must, a dust mask is recommended. First, starting at the back-splash, slice any caulk at the seams where the tile joins the wall with a sharp knife. Then, crack the tiles, enough to get a pry-bar under them. Peel, pry or knock the tiles off, exposing the plywood or cement board underneath. If you can find screws or nails attaching the back-splash to the wall, remove them. Then, look underneath the counter for screw or nails which attach the cabinet to the wall, remove them. At this point, you can try prying the whole structure away from the wall(s). Be careful about pry-bar placement. You should only pry where there is a stud on the inside of the wall, typically every 16. If it doesn't budge, look for any fasteners you missed. NB- Before you start, turn off the water, disconnect all the plumbing, cover the drain pipe (to keep debris out of it and sewer gas inside it. A drop-cloth would help in the cleanup. expect to spend some time patching the wall when you're done. Good Luck
Q: What are the densities of tiles and cement
In the production and processing process, wood in the wood board of wood components through non-toxic chemical mineralization after the fire produced. These treated mineralized wood components combine with the Portland cement base to increase its strength and toughness, resulting in significant structural features and excellent quality of Portland cement: fire, moisture, Corrosion, pest control, and durability. The overall structure of the wood fiber board makes it resistant to impact and easy to process. Due to the close structure, high density, wood fiber reinforced concrete board sound insulation is excellent, and affordable,

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