• Fiber Cement Board with Good Quality System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board with Good Quality System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board with Good Quality System 3
Fiber Cement Board with Good Quality

Fiber Cement Board with Good Quality

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or L/C
Min Order Qty:
1Container pc
Supply Capability:
6000Pcs/Day pc/month

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1.Product Features of Fiber Cement Board:

It is a light-weight and high-intensity building material which is characterized by convenience in construction, great performance for

processes like sawing, nailing without being warped or cracks. In addition, the surface of the boards can be painted or covered with tile or wallpaper, not afraid of insects and not self-heating.

 

The product has great thermal insulation, sound insulation, and endurance for temperature change, so it meets the working requirements of building construction, especially with it's good fire proof, explosion proof, and no emission of noxious fumes.

 

2.Technical Data of Fiber Cement Board:

Place of Origin:

AN HUI AND GUANGDONG China (Mainland)

Brand Name:

N

Model Number:

TCB-F8811

Type:

Non-Asbestos Fiber Cement Boards

Content of chloride ion:

0%

Water content:

<10%

Percentage of water swelling:

≤0.25%

Thermal conductivity:

≤0.20 W/mk

Fire Resistance:

Incombustibility A1 Class(GB8624-2006)

Asbestos:

Asbestos free

Formaldehyde release:

No Formaldehyde

Basic color:

Brown

Material of TCB fiber cement board:

100% eco-friendly

 

 

3.Specifications of Fiber Cement Board:

 1) Thickness: 4 - 20mm

 2) Normal Size: 1220*2440/1200*2400, with the maxium length 3.66m. 

 

4.Usage of Fiber Cement Board:

The magnesium board is widely adoptable to partition and suspending ceiling in decoration of buildings. It is also absolutely suitable to the structure for heat preservation, sound insulation wall places with dampness, mobile partition, special class fire prevevention, sandwiched plate in fireproof- gate and packaging of equipment cases.  

 

5.Packaging & Delivery of Fiber Cement Board:

1)Pieces with palletes or pieces loosely in the container.

2) Packed with 6-8 wood pallet in the container

 

 

 

Q: I have asbestos shingles and i need to vent a portable a/c so i'm going to replace a few shingles with fiber cement board so i can cut them. i heard these things are a nightmare to cut.
A jig saw with a metal cutting blade will work. First, trace the hole you wish to cut on the surface, then drill one hole big enough for the jig saw blade to fit through. Then simply cut out your pattern. CAUTION! Don't breath in the dust since asbestos is a carcinogen. Get a filter mask at any hardware store.
Q: Wooden cement board and cement pressure plate is the same thing?
The outstanding quality of the wood-cement board makes it possible to use, but not be limited to, decorative floor, roof, wall surface, floor, staircase wear surface, inner and outer wall surface, rain shield, ceiling, building cover, , Furniture bench, table and decorative materials, etc., but also to meet the common use of sheet metal. While meeting the requirements of the structure and design, to create a unique Zen space.
Q: over the bath tub is durock cement board enough by itself,or it has to be something else under durock...?
If the tub wall is on an outside wall it should be insulated &amp; then sealed with plastic, then durock, then the tile. For sound purposes you can insulate the other walls also.
Q: Installation technology and process of external wall cement board
Stir: the amount of warm water added to the mixer, wet stirring for 2 minutes; the amount of the blowing agent added to the mixer stirring 8-15 seconds;
Q: I currently have aluminum siding on my house, I want to replace it with stucco. I need to do a full tear off because behind the siding is compressed fiberboard. I will need to apply a backboard to stucco over, so the question is, should I apply cement backer board, hardiboard or plywood? Plywood would be the easiest to apply, and possibly the cheapest, but that doesn't mean it would be best. Any stucco pros with some insight?
yea after the rip off you need to staple some felt paper (some people call it tar paper) then you neeed to use gavlanised roofing nails to nail up the wire mesh..then apply stucco...I would just nail up some 1/2 plywood..then felt paper then wire then stucco
Q: Can the cement do not dry?
After the high-pressure production of cement fiber board, also known as fiber cement pressure plate, its performance is better than the non-pressurized cement fiber board.
Q: I am seeking to set porcelain tile on top of the hardibacker board once it is secured. If I have to remove the Barmaill plywood, does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this with ease? I assume its glued as well as screwed down.
Make sure the plywood is waterproofed by applying a couple of coats of matte polyurethane to it....let it dry completely. Thin set contains water, and you do not want the plywood delaminating. Once the surface is preped, and the plywood is very solid...no flex allowed!, apply thin set and set backer board into it. I usually use drywall screws and screw it down all over the place to make sure the board is in perfect contact with the thinset and backer board. USE Latex fortified thin set or Epoxy thin set...will adhere very well to the sealed ply. NOw, you are ready to set tile...Have a ball. Good luck.
Q: i am wondering the durablability difference. Is one more sturdier than the other?
In a way, fiber cement board is better than stone veneer. Houses are rotting down everywhere stone veneer is installed incorrectly. There's a lot of hacks out there gluing the stuff straight onto wood, making it the next home repair nightmare. If done correctly, it might be more durable but it's not sturdier.
Q: How does the cement pressure plate hang on the old wall with paint?
I do not know what your old wall is now, if you can meet the three points, you can directly use the glue on the line: First, flat, two, clean, three: solid (this is very important), our company specializing in cement board Sales, this is also more proficient in this,
Q: I have a friend who owns a house who believes it was built in 1968. The basement is in immaculate condition-- completely dry. The walls are poured cement and you can see where the forms were taken off the wall after it was poured. My question -- did they pour walls back in 1968 or was cinder block the building material used? I think the house was renovated within the last 15 years. My friend and I are baffled. Thanks!
Glue is not going to work for you... You should put a vapour barrier down first (under the bottom plate). This can be 'Sill gasket' (which is foam on a roll about 6 wide...) or tar paper or even just 6 mil plastic. This will prevent the bottom plate from 'drawing moisture' through the concrete. Usually a basement floor is only a few inches (at best) deep of concrete and then there's stone and dirt below that. Moisture will pass through concrete over time and if the conditions are right, mould will grow in a few years... in your bottom plate and lower studs. I always use tar paper, set the position of the bottom plate, drill with a concrete bit and then use a hammer-in type anchor... These anchors work like a pin driven down through a hollow shaft that expands. You drill right through the bottom plate and the floor, set one of these in the top of the board and whack it with a hammer to pound the pin into the hollow shaft that you stuck in the hole in the wood... works awesome, easier and cheaper than tapcons and really strong at one every 16 or so (between the vertical studs). Home Depot has them by the box in different sizes... Good Luck!

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