• fiber cement board panels sheet for exterior cladding wall construction building material System 1
  • fiber cement board panels sheet for exterior cladding wall construction building material System 2
  • fiber cement board panels sheet for exterior cladding wall construction building material System 3
fiber cement board panels sheet for exterior cladding wall construction building material

fiber cement board panels sheet for exterior cladding wall construction building material

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Specifications

fiber cement board
-Factory price
-SGS,CE
-Non-asbestos, light weight, high density
-Waterproof, fireresistant, anti-bending

fiber cement board panels sheet for exterior cladding wall construction building material

Product Description

Fire-proof Rate: Class-A incombustible GB8624-1997

Incombustibility (min):240 minutes(GB/T9978-1999)

Density:1100~1500g/cm3

Water content ratio: ≤30%

Swelling ratio:≤0.4%

Anti-bending strength:≥16MPa

Frost Resistance: no cracking after 25 cycles of freezing and thawing(GB/T7019-1997)

Radioactivity: standard of BG6566-2001 Class-A Decoration materials.

Size & Loading Quantity of fiber cement board:

Thickness (mm)Length x width (mm)PCS/ 20GPSurface
5mm
1200mm x 2400mm
1220mm x 2440mm
1050 PCS
Single, double surface
Sanding or tapered
6mm
1200mm x 2400mm
1220mm x 2440mm
880 PCS
Single, double surface
Sanding or tapered
8mm
1200mm x 2400mm
1220mm x 2440mm
656 PCS
Single, double surface
Sanding or tapered
9mm
1200mm x 2400mm
1220mm x 2440mm
588 PCS
Single, double surface
Sanding or tapered
10mm
1200mm x 2400mm
1220mm x 2440mm
520 PCS
Single, double surface
Sanding or tapered
12mm
1200mm x 2400mm
1220mm x 2440mm
442 PCS
Single, double surface
Sanding or tapered
15mm
1200mm x 2400mm
1220mm x 2440mm
346 PCS
Single, double surface
Sanding or tapered
18mm
1200mm x 2400mm
1220mm x 2440mm
294 PCS
Single, double surface
Sanding or tapered
20mm
1200mm x 2400mm
1220mm x 2440mm
260 PCS
Single, double surface
Sanding or tapered
Customized sizes and thickness are also produced.
Reccommend application of fiber cement board

Partition board , suspended ceilings,exterior wall cladding, paneling ,light weight grouting panel, interior dry wall decoration board, interior wall after painting and coating.

3.5-6mm : for interior ceiling

7-20mm : for drywall partition



Q:Why does the fire burn on the cement board for a long time?
The burning of the cement board for a long time will explode, which is a physical explosion of cement board.
Q:I've installed a fair amount of this stuff behind tub-surrounds & showers. I generally use a jig saw with a carbide blade, which promptly goes dull. Any experienced tile workers out there find a better way?
If you can handle a little dust, they make a cement board blade for a 7 circular saw. It has about 24 big teeth on it and it slices right though. It will give you a nice clean edge. But there is the dust factor so I always set up outside and use a dust mask. I've used the blade for about 3 years and it is still sharp.
Q:I have laid ed cement board down but I did not stagnate the boards.Will this affect the ceramic tile.?
Hi! I just finished up my bathroom and luckily staggered my cement boards so that I would not have four boards meeting at a single spot. Here's a question for you. Did you use latex modified thinset and cement board tape to seal the joints (similar to what you would do for drywall seams)? The reason I ask is that most cement board manufacturers recommend it. If you did this, that should help prevent some of the problems that could crack your tiles. Also, did you apply dryset mortar or latex-modified thinset between your plywood subfloor and cement board before screwing the cement board down? I understand that this layer is mostly meant to make sure that there is a level surface between these two surfaces, which should help prevent cracking. If you followed these measures, I think you need to make a judgment regarding how flat the seams are where boards come together. Take a piece of tile or other flat surface and put it over the seams. If the tile is relatively flat across the seam, then I think you can leave it alone. If it isn't flat, I would fix it now...spend the extra $10-15 a sheet now and save money later by not having to redo it! I think this is the sort of situation where someone has to be there to make the call!
Q:Directly on the cement board to brush the glass can you!
Brush paint can not blindly paint, so as not to touch the shoes, to lean back brush paint. detail Brush paint to pay attention to details, such as bed below and below the table, be careful not to brush the bed legs. Brush 2 times As the paint is too thin, so the second day after the paint dry brush the second time. Clean up the paint on hand Paint is easy to clean when cleaning, but there is a simple way to clean the hands of the paint through the diluent.
Q:Tile seems to be an expensive options. Want a finished look for less than tile
the guide from Ideas 4 Landscaping. This 1 stop database of more than 7000 higher resolution photos and strategies was developed by Helen Whitfield, a landscaping extraordinaire, educator, with more than 20 many years expertise designing AWARD-WINNING landscapes and getting featured in several magazines and publications, she envisions this collection as a layout package suitable for beginners
Q:Cement pressure board do wall do not work? Solid and waterproof there is no problem?
Of course, the cement pressure plate is not the external walls of material, solid and waterproof are not meet the requirements.
Q:I have a small bathroom approximately 4'x8' and I laid down and screwed in cement backer board. However, in my attention to detail I neglected to put down thin-set mortar underneath prior to screwing and taping down the board. I tried to pull the cement board up but I cant get under the tape that I mortared down to get to the screws. Am I in trouble here or can I go ahead and skip that and continue to tile? Please help...
I have not seen thinset used under the cement board unless the surface had high/low spots. As long as the area is flat, continue on.
Q:My husband fixed the faucet in the tub around two years ago. He cracked one of the tiles. We bandaged the area, but water has been getting behind the tiles. So, we have water damage. Plus, there is this weird white fungus looking stuff that is growing in some of the grout lines. I don't want to just put a liner over this mess. I would like to pull all the tile off and put cement board up (the house is old and it has sheet rock behind the tile), so i can start fresh. Will the liner hold up the same if it is glued to cement board rather than tile?
Tear out all the tile AND the drywall. Like some said above remove and replace any wet insulation and spray area with bleach water to kill mold. Consider getting a tub liner that can be attached directly to the framing around the tub then you don't have to worry about cement board. Make sure your husband caulks well so no more leaks (or hire a professional) That's what I did in our bath room. They are very easy to install. You then have the option of finishing around the top and sides of the liner with greenboard that you can paint, or I installed cement board and am tiling.
Q:I am installing a new tub and enclosure. I have exposed everything down to the studs and plumbing. I have heard that when installing backer board in a shower the best material to use nowadays is cement backer board (like Durock) since they are more resistant to mold than green board. Anyways, what is the correct process for installing cement backer board in a shower? Do I just screw the boards right into the studs, or do I have to first put down another thin barrier sheet (like some waterproof material), then the cement backer board, then another waterproof sealant, then I can install the enclosure? I just want to do this right the first time and not leave any steps out of the process. I would hate to develop another moisture leak and then find out that my barrier did not hold up well. Thanks and take care, I appreciate any help.
I normally install green board to the studs tape the seams and the corners and then install the wonder board over the green board. This gives a float look and a full one inch barrier. it also brings the wonder board out far enough so I can drop over the lip edge. I space the wonder board 1/8 to 1/4 from bottom I silicone seal the bottom edge to the tub/shower pan I silicone seal the outside edge to the wall and the bottom edge to the floor. I run a thin bead from the bottom of both corners maybe 12 inches up. I use proper screws ( rock on ) and plenty of them. then tile I would never use an enclosure as the wear with time and look cheap. the seams are problematic and tend to leak over time and might be the source of your problem good luck
Q:Will the cement board on the decoration be used to blow it directly?
Wall putty method: (1) the current putty are basically finished products, watered into a paste can be used directly. (2) with a scraper directly to the wall scraping like putty can. (3) If the wall is not smooth like the first plaster leveling, and then putty putty. (4) putty is usually horizontal scraping 2 to 3 times, every time between the need to dry through (summer and autumn without the need for interval of 24 hours, rain and wet weather need to extend the interval), scraping the next putty to use fine sandpaper on the front Put on the putty to polish, and then sweep away the dust.

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