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Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump with Lowest Price

Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump with Lowest Price

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump with Lowest Price


CHL/CHLK/CHLKF(T) serial light-duty stainless steel horizontal multi-stage centrifugal pumps are non-priming horizontal multi-stage centrifugal ones made by absorbability of world's advanced technology and design, including subsection type and cylinder type. With horizontal motors and quickly equipped mechanical seals, it is convenient for components replacement. They can be applied to slightly corrosive medium due to the flow passage parts made of stainless steel (304) and are substitutes for CH of the same kind used in abroad, warmly welcomed by users because of their high efficiency, low energy consumption, reliable quality and wide applications.
Feature:
1. Tremendously improve performance and enhance product life due to adoption of excellent water power model and advanced making techniques.
2. Enhance operating reliability and conveying medium temperature because of the use of horniness alloy and fluorine rubber mechanical seals.
3. Applied to slightly corrosive medium due to flow passage parts made of stainless steel after process of pressing and welding.
4. Compact structure, small size, light in weight, low noise, remarkable energy saving, easy for overhaul and maintenance.
5. To avoid damages from dry rotation, lack of electric phase, over-load etc because aptitude protector can be equipped on users' request.
6. Axial inlet and radial outlet, attached with long shaft electric motor.
Application:
1. Air-conditioning system
2. Cooling system
3. Industrial cleaning
4. Water treatment (Water purification)
5. Aquiculture
6. Fertilizing/metering system
7. Environmental application
8. Other special applications
Working Condition:
1. Medium temperature: -15oC ~ +120oC
2. Max ambient temperature: +40oC
3. Max ambient pressure: 10bar.
4. Advisable to use motor of higher power in case that the density or viscosity of medium is above that of water.
Medium:
1. Thin, clean, non-flammable, non-explosive medium containing no granule or fibre.
2. Such as mineral water, softened water, pure water, clean oil and other light chemical medium.
3. Slight corrosive medium.
Motor:
Full-enclosed ventilating two-pole standard motor
Protection class: IP55
Insulation class: F
Standard voltage (50Hz): Single phase 220V
Three- phase 220V/380V




Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump with Lowest Price

 


Q: how to remove water pump on 95 honda accord
advance auto or auto zone has the haynes manual they run around 30 bucks will walk you through it. since the water pump and timing belt are the same area then do the belt too
Q: The water pump in my trecel is damaged and i need to take it to a shop that's about 20 minutes away from my house will turning on the heater and adding coolant help me to get the car there without damaging the engine
If you have electric fans to cool the radiator down you can turn on the airconditioning or the defrost which will make the fans run continuously keeping the water cooler for a longer period of time
Q: The water pump in my 2001 PT Cruiser needs to be replaced and I'm wondering how much I'm looking at. I know it would vary and I know it's supposed to be labor-intensive but I thought I'd ask on here before I call my mechanic. We are trying to figure out if we should just go ahead and look at getting a new car. Thanks for any help!
JUST HAD MINE DONE. FINAL COST $750. LABOR INTENSIVE OVER $400 IN LABOR AT $48 AN HOUR.GOOD LUCK
Q: I have a 1998 ford taurus. It started to over heat so i turned on the heater full blast and it didn't get hot. so i put antifreeze in it and i turned it on and it seemed ok but it started to over heat again and the tank for the antifreeze looked like the cap was going to pop off. I was just down the road from my house so i thought if i drove slow i could make it home and it turned on ok but when i put it in drive it stalled. Does this mean its the water pump??????
sounds like Low water level and a possible head gasket failure from over heating!( low water levels do this) you may? be very lucky and simply have a stuck thermostat or faulty filler cap. ( keeps system pressures correct ) try replacing filler cap as very cheap, also before doing so run engine with full water cooling system with cap off for a minute or two and have somebody rev the engine a few times. we should!! see some water flow across the filler section under filler cap. this will be sign the water pump is working. no flow is possible pump failure. in order of likely hood will be 1) head gasket failure 2) water pump failure 3) filler cap failure.
Q: my water pump is making this quot;chuckingsound, and i was wondering if bad water pump creates these sound? and also, do i need to replace the serpentine belt at the same time?
my water pump dont make any noise. maybe its the belt.
Q: Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ what is different, why not the same?
60Hz pump and 50Hz pump itself is not much difference, just that the motor speed, the rated speed is 3600 rpm, 1200 rpm, 1800 rpm, the latter is generally 3000, 1500, 1000 etc.. If it is to use the same pump, the difference is that the 60Hz motor pump flow is 50Hz, motor water pump flow of 1.2 times, the lift is 1.2*1.2=1.44 times, power is 1.2*1.2*1.2=1.728 times. So in the actual manufacture, especially some relatively large flow lift pumps, pump motor using 60Hz to use 50Hz thicker than the spindle motor of the pump impeller, the difference between the two, in addition to empty size shaft is different, what basically no difference. As for the data of package angle, the water conservancy models of different factories are different, but I don't know whether there is any difference between them. Most of them make no difference. However, if you want to use the 60Hz pump to achieve the same flow rate as the 50Hz pump, the impeller of the former should be cut to 0.833 times the size of the latter.
Q: Would I notice a difference in driving if I changed my timing belt and water pump?
If nothing's wrong with them, no you won't feel any difference
Q: 94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks
It's not the pump that's leaking. The water ports to the pump pass through the aluminum timing cover, over time the aluminum corrodes and leaks between the block and the timing cover. You need to remove the whole works and replace the timing cover, may as well do the timing chain since you're in there.
Q: I recently got the water pump replaced on a 99 Oldsmobile Intrigue GL (3.5L V6), and ever since the temperature gage seems to be running higher...between half way and the 3rd line, where before it was replaced it never got above the second line. It is doing this when I slow down and stop at lights. Once I get going the temperature does drop. Is this normal, or did they do something wrong?
There's a few different things that could be causing your problem. 1: Did they change the thermostat? If so, they may have replaced it with a defective one. If not, then it may need to be replaced. 2: What was the reason the water pump was replaced in the first place? if it was for any other reason than leaking then this could be causing your problem. 3: They might not have gotten all the air out of the system. when you drain all the water and then fill system back up, there are large air pockets in engine that must be bleed out. If not, these air pockets will get trapped behind the thermostat and cause the thermostat not to open when it's suppose to! 4: Are your cooling fans coming on? If not, you may have a bad temp sensor, causing your fans not to come on while you are stopped. This type of problem is hard to narrow with out seeing it in person. I would take it back to the place that replace your water pump and see if they can figure it out.
Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.

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