• Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH System 1
  • Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH System 2
  • Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH System 3
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Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH

Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Item:
Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China
Material:
Stain Steel
Appilcation:
Water
Pressure range:
High pressure
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Color:
Customer Required

Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China

 

Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

The company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

The company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

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Product parameters of Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump

 

 

Capacity:6.3~400m³/h
Head:5~125m
Speed:2900r/min and 1450r/min
Power of fitted motor:0.55~90kW
Inler diameter:50~200mm
The max working pressure:1.6MPa

 

Application Range of Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump

1.Suitable for environment protection, construction, fire fighting, chemical pharmacy, printing, dyeing, brewage, power plant, electroplate,
paper making, washing for mining and cooling for equipment.
2.Application as sprayer equipped with beam nozzle that turning water into little drop irrigation for farm, garden, etc.
3.It is suitable for clear water, sea water, acid or alkali chemical medium and slurry (viscosity≤100 centipoise, consistency of solid can not exceed 30% of total medium).

 

 Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Features
1. Resistant to acid, alkali, wear and high temperature.
2. High mechanical strength, steady performance, good tightness.
3. Convenient operation and durable.
4. Be able to transport water that under the position it was installed. No need for filling liquid after the first time it was used.

 

Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump  superiority

High efficiency

Reasonable design

Reliable operation

Long in service time

Easy maintenance

Low running cost

 

 Pictures show

 

Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH

Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH

Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH

Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH

 

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material
 
FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)?
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 

 

 Trading market

 

 

Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH

 

 

After-sales service

Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH

 

 Transportation

 

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Stain Steel Self Priming Centrifugal Pump Made In China/KH

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Q: how do i take water pump off took all hoses and bolts i think off dont know whats holdin it on how many bolt hold it on i know the seal can hold it on ther but it wont budge even when i use block of wood and tap with hammer
If you haven't figured it out already, it's best to remove the plastic shield around the fan first. Then remove the declutching fan from the water-pump. If you skip this step, when the water-pump does come loose the fan blades will blast right into the radiator. There are only four bolts holding the water-pump to the engine block. When the declutching fan is off you can use a dead-blow hammer on-top of the water-pump drive spindle with the other hand underneath the water-pump snout to prevent from hitting the radiator core. If your not riding around by now it's because you'r having trouble figuring out where all the crap is in Roberts Rules Of Order.
Q: How many kinds of pumps are there? What are the advantages of soft start?
Start the pump direct start, soft start and step-down start, starting four, direct start motor is generally suitable for small power, we usually use, at 15kw below the pump price; Step-down start is the star delta conversion is started, start is two times speed to reach the rated speed of the general. Using the above 18.5kw, the pump price moderate; soft start is gradually increased to the rated speed of the pump, the impact is very small, the price is relatively high, generally 3 times the step-down start; is the most advanced frequency conversion start, not only have advantages of soft start, also can be set to work at any speed, there are significant effect on energy saving.
Q: I have an 02 Gran Prix and my water pump is going out. With the recession I don't have the money to take it in. So can anyone give step by step instructions to help me fix it. I am a do it yourself kinda of guy so I am mechanically inclined. What tools will I'll need? is there a timing chain? How long will you think it will take me? Any thing i should pay attention to? How can I measure the pounds of torque that I put on the bolts or what tool will I'll need? Please help!!!
WP replacement mini-writeup 1. Empy Coolant from Radiator drain 2. Remove SC and Acc. belts 3. Remove the coolant resevoir tank 3. Remove the Idler pulley with a 15mm 4. Remove the 4 WP pulley bolts with a 8mm 5. Remove the 2 Power Steering Pump bolts with a 13mm(bolts are at 12:00 and 6:00 accessable through the PS pulley holes) 6. Push PS pump 1 inch to the side 7. Remove all 8 WP bolts with a 13mm and a 10mm(3 are 13mm/5 are 10mm) 8. Collect extra coolant until flow stops(a few cups) 9. Apply RTV to both sides of the gasket and WP bolts 10. WP bolts should be torqued to 11lbs+80*/Idler pulley bolt at 36lbs/WP pulley bolts at ~9lbs 11. Reinstall everything and fill the coolant back up 12.
Q: where t is in minutes since the pump is started. If the holding tank contains 1000 liters of water when the pump is started, how much water does it hold one hour later?
Water is pumped out of a holding tank at a rate of 4-4e^(-.14t) liters/minute. Lets call that function w(t). So if we integrate w(t) over a time period that will give us the total water removed over that time period. So lets integrate it from t=0 (time when pump started) to t=60 (one hour later): ∫ w(t) from t=0 to t=60 ∫ w(t)=∫ 4-4e^(-.14t)=4t+(4/.14)e^(-.14t) evaluated from 0 to 60 ∫ w(t)=4(60)+(4/.14)e^(-.14*60)-4(0)-(4/.1... ∫ w(t)=211.435 liters removed If the holding tank began at 1000 liters and 211.435 were removed... Remaining water=1000-211.435 ***Remaining water=788.565 liters***
Q: What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?
drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do
Q: Is it a must to change the entire water pump since only driplets of anti-freeze leak out over a 7day period from the bottom of the pump? Can i simply change the gasket and make it all better? Water pump is pumping and making no noise, vehicle isnt over heating.
your water weep hole is on bottom of water pump also.if its the water pump weep hole leaking.that signs of water pump shaft bearing is going bad.water pump needs replacing.
Q: Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?
Check heater control valve ( on one of the heater hoses going into the firewall), make sure there is no vacuum leak to it or the heat door. Does air blow on the floor when your heater is on? When you slide or turn the temp selector on your control panel you either move a cable or supply vacuum to a door that shifts air flow from vent to floor, is this happening?
Q: I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.
Do you have the 3.4 or the 3.8? Oh well. No one bothers to give that sort of vital information on here... Don't forget to buy RTV when you go buy the pump. Anyway, the 3.4: To Remove: Drain the cooling system. Remove the drive belt guard if equipped. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Remove or disconnect the following: Drive belt. Water pump pulley bolts and pulley. Water pump bolts, pump and gasket. Clean the water pump mating surfaces. To Install: Install or connect the following: Water pump gasket and pump. Water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) Water pump pulley and bolt until snug. Drive belt. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. Lbs.). If removed, install the drive belt guard. Fill the cooling system. Inspect for leaks. For the 3.8: To Remove: Drain the cooling system. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Remove or disconnect the following: Drive belt. Water pump pulley bolts. Water pump pulley. Power steering pump and reposition. Water pump bolts. Water pump. Water pump gasket. Clean and inspect the water pump mating surfaces. To Install: Install or connect the following: Water pump gasket. Water pump. Tighten the long water pump bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft. Lbs.) Tighten the short water pump bolts to 22 Nm (16 ft. Lbs.) Water pump pulley. Water pump pulley bolts. Tighten the bolts to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.) Power steering pump. Drive belt. Fill the cooling system. You're lookin' at eight bolts on the pump in most vehicles your make/model.
Q: the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
Most 1973 era vehicles have a clutch on the fan which stops turning at higher engine rpm which saves horsepower. Your best option is to locate a high capacity water pump for your car or locate a radiator with more passes than the stock radiator. A radiator shop should be able to give you advise on both. Remember, the water pump is belt driven along with several other items on the engine, so replacing the water pump with an electric one might be far more involved and expensive. Plus, the water pump has a seal that must work properly for the engine to retain its cooling fluid. There are aftermarket cooling fans that can be installed in front of or behind the radiator to provide additional air flow, the local auto parts store should have a listing or a company like Summit. Fans can be manually turned on or have a thermo swithch which turns the fan on at a certain temp. These are usually options with the electric fan kits. Good luck.
Q: Hi. This car is 66 chevy but the motor is a 1984 chevy 350 4bolt main stroked to 383. I think its an '84, might be an '85. I need to replace fan clutch and water pump.... the fan clutch is bad but manufacturer of the replacement parts says you must do water pump and fan clutch together. Is the pump a 66 chevy pump or a 350 small block pump? What about the fan clutch? Ok, and please help with motor mounts. do I use mounts specific for 66 model or specific to the motor?
You want the pump specific to the engine. And the motor mounts specific to the vehicle. I have never seen a fan clutch that cannot be replaced separate from the water pump.

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