• Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation System 1
  • Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation System 2
  • Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation System 3
Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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          Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

1.Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation Description

The Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump is designed for Irrigation, The casting is axially split, which permits removal of the complete rotor whish moving either piping or motor. Pumps generating high heads have double volute to reduce radial forces. Replaceable wear ring protect the casting at the impeller running clearances. Flange drilled to ISO, DIN, BS or ANSI. The close double suction impeller gives practically zero axial forces. Each impeller is statically and dynamically balanced according to ISO 1940.The pumps have a reduced number of parts and extensive interchangeability, which leads to minimum levels of inventory for customers and faster parts delivery. Vertical installation is a standard option with the same upper and lower casing parts. It is mounted for a space-saving configuration or when apace is at a premium. Soft packing or mechanical seal, grease or oil lubricated bearing is optional. Oil lubrication is with constant level oiler.

2.Main Features of Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Attractive design

High efficiency, steady performance

•Big capacity, medium pressure

High concentricity of components

3.Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm IrrigationSpecification

Casing

Cast Iron, Ductile Cast Iron, Cast Steel, Stainless Steel or Duplex S.S

Impeller

Cast Iron, Bronze, Duplex S.S, Stainless Steel

Shaft

C-Steel, Cr-Steel, Stainless Steel

Wearing Ring

Cast Iron, Brass, Stainless Steel

Capacity/Q

Up to 25000m3/h,

Up to 110000gpm

Head/H

Up to 280m,

Up to 800 feet

Temperature/T

Up to 200degree

Speed/n

2900/1450/980/740/580 rpm

3500/1750/1180/890/710rpm

4.Picture of Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation

 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

 

 

 

Q: I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.
Don't go blowing cash on a water pump just yet; It may be just a leaking radiator or heater hose. It would be wise to change the thermostat and check the condition of the coolant. (right here before summer) Perhaps pressure test the cooling system...that will tell you right away if the impeller seal is bad in the water pump. Check the radiator hoses at that time... replace as necessary. if your (assumed) coolant leak is right around the passenger front wheel the pressure test could possibly reveal a freeze plug leak. (replacement required to fix that) The labor will cost around $150 plus/minus $20.-and thats not even a good guess. I tell you this: if you were in my circle of friends, I would do it for nothing: Thats what people do for each other. Anybody that knows you that has the tools and ability should do the same... Try this: if you have your oil changed at a quick lube, ask the manager which one of his guys would be qualified for such a sidejob... any gearhead will jump at he chance to help a lady out make sure the job is done right instead of some greasemonkey f*cking it up. It will cost you much less than standard labor rate and the extra coinage in his pocket doesn't hurt. I'm not bagging repair shops, they deserve to make a living too, but every nickle counts nowdays... Let him diagnose the problem(s), take him to Oreilleys to make sure you get the right parts, and buy him lunch..... Enjoy your summer...an overheated car and related repairs will turn it sour in a hurry. (edit) wow,... if you have the dexcool, then yes thats orange. There's not anything on that side of the vehicle that would be that color. short of discolored and moldy a/c condensation (highly unlikely) if its brake fluid you would know it by now. power steering is red or clear, Even though I consider myself highly experienced, I'm stumped.
Q: Submersible pump capacity I was 1500W, the normal use of voltage is 220 kV line 600 meters with 6 square aluminum after the start of the effluent is small, and the voltage of submersible pump is reduced to 150 volts could not use voltage of 380 volts (two).
Small amount of water, it should be the lift can not meet the requirements, change the submersible pump is the best solution. With 380 volts, it is very likely to burn out the pump motor.
Q: We have an electric sump pump. Battery pumps will only work for two or three days. I want a manual pump that will pump a lot of water. We cannot waterproof the basement because it costs over $10,000. Where can I find a manual pump? Carrying water out in buckets is too slow and exhausting. We carried 80 five gallon buckets out last time the electricity was off for a few hours.
what about a small gas genarator and an extenstion cord?
Q: My deep water pump buzzes when it pumps or something it just happen this morning so whats wrong with it
Assuming its not a submersible and just a jet type(motor on top of ground) its the capacitor for the start winding(probably one that was made in mexico) that has come open.Just go to a supply house(Johnson controls,Granger) and get a new one(if a sears pump it is internal).
Q: Assuming that my water pump standard flow is 20m3/h, tolerance value requirements is + 8%, then is not traffic 22m3/h is not qualified?
Tolerance coefficient is due in the manufacturing process, will, so each pump products are possible shapes and sizes do not conform to the pattern of the situation, and ensure the test results in the value (operating point) when compared, should be allowed to have a certain tolerance. It should be noted that these tolerances are only relevant to the actual pump and do not involve test conditions and measurement uncertainties. If the pump at a certain working point (the same lift) standard (Design) flow of 20m3/h, the actual flow of 22m3/h, indicating that the pump in the design process has unreasonable place, resulting in waste of power. Deviations from the manufacturing process usually have no positive deviation.A pump is a machine that transports liquids or pumps liquids. It will be the prime mover of the mechanical energy or other external energy transfer to the liquid, the liquid energy increase, mainly used to transport liquids including water, oil, alkali liquid, emulsion, suspension emulsion and liquid metal, but also transport liquid, gas mixtures and liquids containing suspended solids. Pump performance of technical parameters are flow, suction, lift, shaft power, water power, efficiency, etc.; according to the different principles of work can be divided into volume pumps, vane pumps and other types. Displacement pump is to use its studio volume changes to transfer energy; vane pump is to use the rotating blade and water interaction to transfer energy, there are centrifugal pumps, axial flow pumps and mixed flow pumps and other types.
Q: explain the operation of a water pump....?
Water pumps are available in different types. 1. Centrifugal type: Operate by increasing the velocity of water which, when the velocity is decreased by the Volute casing, the pressure increases. 2. Rotary Gear type.: Operate by Displacement of the water by rotating, gears that trap water between the teeth of 2 rotors of inter-meshing gears that release the water at a higher pressure on the opposite side of the pump to the intake. 3. Piston (reciprocating type: Also a displacement operation by a piston moving backwards and forwards within a cylinder (like a hypodermic syringe in operation). Back stroke takes water into the cylinder and forward stroke discharges it at a higher pressure. (Double acting types are also used that take in and discharge alternately from both ends).
Q: I moved into a house on a rural property in January, and we live off tank water and have a Grunfos PT18 pumping all our water into the house.The problem is, not all the time, but alot of the time my pump stays on after having a shower, the motor keeps running and restarting continuously as if it is desperately trying to pump more water through, until I go underneath my house and literally turn it off at the powerpoint, wait for a bit then turn it back on. I am scared if I leave the motor keep going like that it will burn my pump out. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can fix this problem, or why it may be doing this, or is something causing it?Thankyou in advance, from someone who has next to no knowledge about pumps!!
Just adding a little more info to Corkeys list. Your foot valve could be stuck open and the water is draining back to the well. You will have to pull up the well line and replace the foot valve.
Q: I getting some work done to my like replacing the timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket and the water pump gasket...the mechanic I talked to said I need to replace this as well; my thing is the water pump is fine..should I take his advice?
What a better time to do it unless of course you are selling it this month. Mechanic is right in saving you money in the future.
Q: Why does the water pump leak?
Two reasons.One is that the gap between the bearings becomes larger. Damage the water seal. One is the aging of water seal.
Q: I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!
That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.

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