Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
1.Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation Description
The Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump is designed for Irrigation, The casting is axially split, which permits removal of the complete rotor whish moving either piping or motor. Pumps generating high heads have double volute to reduce radial forces. Replaceable wear ring protect the casting at the impeller running clearances. Flange drilled to ISO, DIN, BS or ANSI. The close double suction impeller gives practically zero axial forces. Each impeller is statically and dynamically balanced according to ISO 1940.The pumps have a reduced number of parts and extensive interchangeability, which leads to minimum levels of inventory for customers and faster parts delivery. Vertical installation is a standard option with the same upper and lower casing parts. It is mounted for a space-saving configuration or when apace is at a premium. Soft packing or mechanical seal, grease or oil lubricated bearing is optional. Oil lubrication is with constant level oiler.
2.Main Features of Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
•Attractive design
•High efficiency, steady performance
•Big capacity, medium pressure
•High concentricity of components
3.Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm IrrigationSpecification
Casing | Cast Iron, Ductile Cast Iron, Cast Steel, Stainless Steel or Duplex S.S |
Impeller | Cast Iron, Bronze, Duplex S.S, Stainless Steel |
Shaft | C-Steel, Cr-Steel, Stainless Steel |
Wearing Ring | Cast Iron, Brass, Stainless Steel |
Capacity/Q | Up to 25000m3/h, Up to 110000gpm |
Head/H | Up to 280m, Up to 800 feet |
Temperature/T | Up to 200degree |
Speed/n | 2900/1450/980/740/580 rpm 3500/1750/1180/890/710rpm |
4.Picture of Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q: A pump parameter is the maximum flow per hour 960L, followed by the standard flow of 480 what do you mean?
- Centrifugal pump, flow and head is an inverse relationship between the maximum flow, you said, lift the corresponding conveying pump is relatively low, the standard flow, the rated flow is designed and run in standard flow, pump efficiency is the highest, if more than the standard flow operation possible lead pump overcurrent heating, and a series of cavitation phenomena
- Q: The leak is in the same area as my water pump, but when I jacked my car up yesterday, I wasn't able see my water pump. It's a 99 Saturn SL1.With the leak, it leaks very slowly, and it only leaks about a few ounces of fluid at a time. It mostly only leaks when I start the engine while its cooled down, and it's leaking down the passenger side of my engine.If it was a bad water pump, would the antifreeze leak without stopping until all of the antifreeze is gone?
- It would NOT leak until it emptied the coolant. Between the bad pump and the leak, air will enter the cooling system. Right now you have some air in the cooling system. When enough air gets in, and because hot air expands, you will soon reach a point where the pressure will be so great that a hose will rupture or be forced off the clamp. Then a cloud of white steam will explode under the hood and you will be stuck wherever you happen to be at the time waiting for an expensive tow truck. Since things like this happen to you, and since you probably have better things to do than learn about cars, then do this: Go to AAA and buy a one year membership. For about $65 a year, and your cell phone, they will come anywhere, any time on any day to tow the car, jump the battery, open a locked door, put on gas, start your car, give you a ride and pull you out of a ditch - all free.
- Q: What are the quota items for the complete pump installation?
- Complete installation of water pump, including:1. pump installation platform, to obtain concrete and reinforced section (if any)2. anchor bolt installation: cap construction reserved bolt mounting holes of the anchor bolt installation hole grouting taking, (may be incorporated into the 1), and the damping piece related item;3. pump installation: installed in the installation of fixed item taking pump, check the wiring and debugging section, the first cable.
- Q: How do I replace the water pump on a 1996 Mercury 200 hp outboard engine? I have the parts, but want to make sure I replace it correctly. Thanks!
- good answers. forward gear is a good idea, just make sure the controller is in fwd. also. when you turn the driveshaft to put the housing over the impeller make sure to always turn it clockwise from the top.
- Q: When should I replace my water pump ?
- usually when leaking or noisy
- Q: I got my oil changed yesterday and took like a 3 hour drive and back home and had no issues.. today I was at my work visiting and I noticed smoke coming from the engine [sort of more of steam] and a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust. The light on the gauge inside the car for the engine temp isn't working but all the other ones are. A mechanic told me it was a bad water pump, but I just want some more opinions. Or if the oil change could of effected that.. My engine coolant wasn't that low but a greenish liquid was really leaking from underneath the car.
- water pump ,hoses or freezeout plugs,cracked block
- Q: here is the problem with my water pump control switch settings. the water is being used, runs dry and stays off for sometimes 3 minutes or so.i realize the springs control the cut in and cut out. do i need to make the spring more compressed to make the pump come on sooner? or do i need to make the spring looser to make the switch come on sooner?when i read/hear about adjusting the cut in. the answers seem vague because i do not know the perspecitve of the spring.does compressing the spring make the swith flip easier? or does compressing the spring make the switch harder to flip on?i installed a new 30/50 switch today. My air tank was at 50 or so PSI. but i dropped it to about 30. is the goeal to make the entire full system 50 pounds? because after my pump cycles i get about 70 psi!!!
- with the switch set to operate at 30/50 the tank should have 27 or 28 pounds of air with no water in tank and a faucet open with pump turned off...once this is set the pump will come on at 30 and off at 50 if it goes higher than this the switch is bad or the adjustments have been changed....tightening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off pressure higher...loosening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off lower....the short spring sets the difference between the two...tightening the shorth spring raises cut off pressure only...loosening the short spring lowers cut off pressure only....
- Q: Our watrer pump on our well will constantly prime itself when we use the water in our house.As you are running the tap the water will gain pressure on and off like someone is using another tap in the house. Any suggestions?THanks in advacne
- How old is the Pump ? Could the Impeller be worn out ? Is there a replaceable filter ? Could it possibly be stopped up ? Are there any leaks in the pipe leading from the well ? Is there a way that you could measure the current being drawn by the pump, with an Amp Meter, to determine if it's pulling more Current than it should be ? Until these questions are answered, it's probably just going to be a guessing game.
- Q: I have some black RTV silicone that I got with a gasket for my oil pan. Can I use some on a gasket for a water pump instead of regular sealant or is there a particular type I need? If there is a certain or preferred type please give me a link to it at like autozone or something, thanks!
- Sealant or silicone is usually used instead of a gasket. A gasket is made to seal and does not need any other kind of sealant. If installing a gasket and you do not want it to move then you use a glue, but just enough to keep the gasket in place. Glue like 3M. If installing a Eng. oil pan gasket where it takes a rubber end or an intake manifold gasket then you use a silicone where the rubber meets the paper or cork gasket. This is for insurance only. Some oil pans don't use a paper gasket then you use a silicone. Lay a good 1/4 inch bead around the block and let it get tacky then carefully install the oil pan. On the water pump, it wont hurt to put silicone to hold the gasket in place, and also insurance in case it leaks Good luck
- Q: The car water pump is broken. What are the symptoms?
- Car water pump damage, water temperature will rise sharply
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Single Stage Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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