• Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota System 1
  • Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota System 2
  • Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota System 3
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota

Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Brake Pad for Toyota

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Auto parts: 

brake pads

Position: 

Front Axle

PAGID: 

C1004

VALEO: 

541679

WVA: 

29108/29109/29163

FMSI: 

D1203-8323

FERODO: 

FDB1313

Rate: 

EE&FF

Test: 

Link &Greening Test

 Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.

Delivery Detail:

30-45days

Specifications

Brake pads 
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement 
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

    Crossing Reference Number

Application

FMSI

D1203-8323

FERODO

FDB1313

Scania   

 

Benz 

 

Man 

 

Iveco 

 

DAF

WVA

29087

WVA

29059

WVA

29106

WVA

29105

WVA

29062

WVA

29061

WVA

29060

WVA

29046

WVA

29045

WVA

29042

WVA

29202

WVA

29201

WVA

29179

WVA

29163

WVA

29109

WVA

29108

O.E.M.

0034201620

O.E.M.

0024204920

O.E.M.

082135100

O.E.M.

0044202220

O.E.M.

2992348

O.E.M.

1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design. 

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

 

 

 

 

Q: What kind of brake fluid should I use?
dot 4 or a full synthetic that is dot 4 or better rated
Q: When I gently apply the hand brake on my 78 Honda 550 Four motorcycle I get a loud squealing noise. If I pull it a little harder I don‘t get the noise. The functionality of the brake seems fine. Does anyone one what the problem is, and how I can fix it? Thanks!
quite relies upon on what you choose, an excellent style of areas are accessible from Dave Silver Spares, sorry do not comprehend the tel. no. yet attempt google. Tin ware may be a genuine concern with e bay in all probability being your perfect wager. The classic jap bike club is an magnificent club and quite properly worth becoming to be a member of there's a separate on the industry ebook each and each month with the club magazine. sturdy success with the build.
Q: I have a ninja 250r and I recently start hearing Squeaking noises while I ride it and its getting worst and worst every day the faster i go the louder it get, I don’t really know where is the noise coming from and My front Brake Lever makes click sound when I pull it?? I just want to know what the problem is and how to fix it?
Get rid of the mouse underneath your seat and it will probably go away.
Q: for Stop the motorbike generally by applying all the handlebar lever break and foot pedal break. my question is -gt; if I applying handlebar and foot pedal both in same time when I going in very speed , is it dangerous ?
Spend a little money on a ' learn to ride a motor cycle coarse ' it will be money well spent and cheaper than a funeral. Would you think you can fly a fighter jet aircraft with that amount of knowledge - NO, then don't think you can ride a bike without some help and a lesson or two; and forget about speed till you know what the brakes are for and know how to use them.
Q: I‘ve been doing a little research while preparing to get my CA motorcycle license and I‘ve come across many forums with posters advocating draggin the rear brake while feathering the throttle in order to pass the test going around the circle. Does anyone have an idea -based on motorcycle theory- why that would help? I‘m scheduled to take the motorcycle safety course next week, and if I pass I‘ll never have to do the DMV‘s lollipop test, but I‘m still curious what it is about dragging that back break that would make a difference on a rider‘s ability to keep the front wheel inside the lines in the circle. And ideas?
I have not taken this test, but I gather it is a slow speed (just about walking pace) manoeuvring test, which I have done. When you are trying to keep a bike in a straight line at walking pace you are hovering between stalling and slowing so much you put your foot down (I assume that would be a failure) and going too fast to perform the required actions. The smaller and lighter a bike is the easier this would be to do. You can do this by juggling throttle and clutch – but this takes experience and is not a skill that a novice will have to hand, as is applying the front brake while keeping a constant throttle. So the rear brake is used to modulate the speed while the clutch and throttle is kept almost constant – it separates the controls to three limbs. I would expect the biggest failure rate to be caused by riders looking at the route a few inches in front of the wheel – but that is too late at a slow speed, any compensation could put you out of the route or put your foot down, you have to look further ahead, turn your head to look where you want to go. btw google moto gymkhana if you want to see some amazing skills for tight “slow” turns.
Q: I‘ve been riding a vintage 1960 Vespa (125 cc, manual gear shift) for 3 years and now want to upgrade to a motorcycle.From what I‘ve been reading, they recommend lt; 500cc for the beginner bike. But I‘ve been riding my scooter for 3 years now, and its taught me to ride defensively.especially since the old thing has no turn signals and crappy brakes :):).My heart is toward a 700 cc motorcycle. Should I go for that or should I still stick to a lt; 500cc like the Suzuki GS500?
The guy above me asked the same question i was about toWHICH 700cc bike are you considering? The only one's i know of are r7, kr-7 and i think suzuki made a gsxr-700. I've a feeling, since you mentioned the gs500 (sportbike ish) that you want to move up to a sportbike.from a scooter. I wouldn't recommend it. Not a supersport at least. You don't have to go to something as slow as a gs500 since technically you know how to ride and you do have road experience. It's the raw HP that you need to worry about. Go for something a little less performance oriented (obsessed even.). A few bikes come to mind. The kawaski ZZR600 is a nice bike without having too much explosive power. The yamaha fz6r is another feasible option, though, it's a bit overweight IMO. The suzuki gsx 600 (not the gsx R) is also a decent choice. It's weight counteracts is power and makes it very manageable. The SV650 and the ninja 650r are good. The honda Hornet 600 is good the yamaha fz-6 is good. There's plenty of options. You could also go for a 400 supermoto type of deal along the lines of a suzuki drz-400. It'd be an f'ing blast around town since it's so light and has enough power to keep you happy for a good while. Any motorcycle bigger than your scooter is going to feel a lot faster so be be hesitant about buying something small. Just remember that the gs500 is in absolutely no way your only option.
Q: Does it matter if i extend the hydraulic brake line/hose of a motorcycle brake?? Present hose/line is about 3feet and want to get a 7feet hose? Will it affect performance? Thank you guys
If you are using rubber hose yes it can. Why the added length? It will take more fluid with the longer lines, and can get caught on a part of it ripping it out because of the additional length. The manufacturer used shorter lines for a reason.

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