Brake Shoe Brake Pads and Shoes K2311

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Model NO.:ISUZU

Classification:Drum

Drum Brakes Classification:Brake Shoe

Main Market:Mild East

Certification:ISO/TS16949, ISO9001

Type:Brake Shoes

Material:Ceramic Fiber

Position:F&R

Unit:4PCS/Set

Export Markets:North America, South America, Southeast Asia, Africa, Oceania, Mid East, Eastern Asia

Product Description

ISUZU ELF NPR57 3300 F16 / 07/84-06/90

ISUZU ELF NKR66 4300 F / 08/90-06/93

ISUZU ELF NKS58 3600 / 08/87-08/95

ISUZU ELF NPR58 3600 F16 / 01/87-06/90

ISUZU ELF NPR59 3900 F / 07/84-07/93

ISUZU ELF NPR59 3900 F / 07/90-07/93

ISUZU ELF NPR61 4300 / 06/88-04/95

Brake Shoe Brake Pads and Shoes K2311

Q:Motorcycle oil brake does not hit the oil Editor's note: There may be brake oil or brake system in the air, there may be insufficient brake oil, brake pump blockage or damage can not be caused by the formation of pressure.

Q:My cycle would squeak bad when i stopped or was rolling my bike to a stop. So i installed new rear and front brakes. Now my bike shuts up when I stop, but its squeaking non stop while I ride. As soon as i tap the front brake they stop, but when i let go it starts again. How can I get rid of this?: There are two likely sources. One is fretting between the back of the pad and the piston. There is a grease-like you can apply to the back of the pad which will damp out the vibrations that cause the squeaking. If that doesn't do the trick, you can try putting a slight chamfer on the edges of the pads.

Q:So I‘m taking a riders course on the 19th to learn to ride a motorcycle. I‘m saving for a sportsbike and should be able to buy it some time next month. But the thing is, I‘ve never ridden a motorcycle before! I know that the clutch is on the left and the front brakes on the right hand grips. And the shifters are on the left right? and the back brakes on the right? But my friend was trying to explain how to ride one when it comes to shifting and everything but he sucks at explaining stuff. What is the basic concept of shifting? Like how do you know when to pull the clutch and do you have to slowly release the clutch or what? If you can tell me the basic concept I‘d appreciate it.Thanks: install the cv shaft all the way and it will be good again

Q:I‘m buying my first motorcycle, a 93 yamaha virago 750. Has low miles since it wasn‘t ridden much so it obviously needs some work and care. I‘m going to be changing all the major fluids, filters, and tires, but I wanted to know how picky motorcycles can be on maintenance. I‘m a good mechanic on cars and trucks, but some of the stuff I saw in my bike‘s repair manual seemed like overkill. Like every 10k miles, you need to replace the fork oil and seals, lube the swingarm bearings, and replace the alternator brushes. Is all this really necassary, because I intened to use it as a daily commuter? I can certainly do all of that with a few special parts and some more tools, but I‘m hoping it doesn‘t come to that on a bi-yearly basis or so.: riding bikes for the last 40 + years. change the fork seals when they fail start to leak change the fork oil at 50,000 miles engine gearbox oil at 5000 miles brake clutch fluids every 2 years brake pads as required TIMING CHAIN this is an important one on the VIRAGO. tall motor with a long chain20,000 miles swing arm bearings. 25,000 miles. all the milages given are approximations. Im riding a Ducati 800 sport at the moment change the timing belts as per the manual. the rest is open to interpretation if you ride the bike hard service it more often if it gets an easy life you can double a lot of the service intervals.

Q:I am working on a custom bike. I see some bikes online with no front brakes. What are some advantages and disadvantages of taking it off. To me it looks better, less maintenance, and lighter. I can see safety being an issue too. This is my first street bike so be nice. Do you use the hand brake more or less than the foot brake?: Disadvantage: The harder you brake, the more weight transfers to the front tire, and the less weight remains on the rear tire. Weight equals traction, and therefor braking ability. With no front brake, NO HARD STOPS will be possible. Thus, any emergency or evasive situation will result in a skid, and most likely a collision. Few, if any, jurisdictions allow motorcycles with only one brake, and no insurance company would knowingly cover one. Advantage: Cosmetics.

Q:I hava a 2006 Susuki C50 Boulevard and it keeps shutting off while I am braking or down shifting. It also will not stay cranked just idleing. Anyone know why and how I can fix it?: It doesn't have anything to do with braking or shifting. It just shuts down whenever you let off the gas. It could be idle adjustment, clogged idle jets, out of sync carbs, a vacuum leak or a worn engine.

Q:I‘m considering buying a motorcycle after graduation and would like to sell my car, or at least leave it home in MD. But, I plan on living in Brookland with some friends and would much rather prefer getting around town in a motorcycle. Are permits cheaper? Is parking easier? What about storing a bike at an apt or garage?: I did it for 4 years (19961999) in DC, had to rely on friends about 710 days a year for rides thanks to snow/ice storms. I didn't own a car at that time, but lost a bet to a friend about what was cheaper. His Corolla absolutely slaughtered me on my VFR when it came to operating costs. We even extended time-lines (mathematically) to include major service items on the car and it was the same deal. Day to day costs, an econo-box will obliterate a sportbike. Now, I paid $4,000 less for my bike than he paid for the car, so the buy-in is cheaper. It's not about fuel economy either, it's the tires, chain and sprockets, brakes, fluids, insurance, etc. that kill it for the motorcycle. You CAN bend those more to your favor, but the same can be done with a car. I now keep records of motorcycle vs my car (a 2001 VW Jetta TDI), and it's rare to find a motorcycle that's as cheap as Double what my car costs. If you have a car There that you can borrow/use with advanced notice, it'll be lots easier. Better for shopping and better for dating (seriously, dates do NOT want to be on the back of a bike every time you head out, nor do they want to drive you everywhere or meet everywhere). You need to be aware that if you take your motorcycle to a mechanic/shop to do everything, it will cost you both arms, a leg, and the other leg to the knee. You *must* be able to do your own work, otherwise you will be spending Way more than what it costs to own/operate a car. It was learning this that got me on the road to becoming a certified motorcycle mechanic, Best of luck if you go this route. It can be done, but there are compromises. DC was the easiest place I was motorcycle only (out of DC, Phoenix and Atlanta).

Q:the motorcycle will not decrease speed by gentle application of brakes, I have to floor the rear brakes and grab the front brake calliper.is there something wrong with my brakes?: I agree that Philip's down home wisdom is astounding, but Choppy made a very good point. Some older bikes needed an Arnold Swartzenegger type grip to stop. An older bike with a single front disc is going to need more grip than a double disc and an older, single piston double disc will most likely need more than a modern, multi-piston double disc setup. Sometimes brake shoes or pads will become glazed, especially when they have been used lightly for long periods of time. Once glazed, it takes tremendous pressure to get them to stop. The best thing to do is to remove them and use sandpaper to rough them up for better grip. there's also a big difference between pad material, especially in wet conditions. I've had pads that worked great when dry but in wet weather I could have dragged my feet and gotten stopped sooner. Old Honda front disc setups had the caliper mounted on a hinged affair that needed to be adjusted correctly. Old hoses on disc brakes get spongy with age and no amount of bleeding will firm them up. If you can mash the brake lever against the handgrip, you either have air in the system or the hoses should be replaced. On rear drum brakes, the problem can be as simple as the rod between the lever and brake needing adjustment. On rear disc setups, you may need to adjust the lever to that it sets higher and you don't have to bend your foot downward so far. Hose swelling on rear discs usually isn't as big of a deal because you normally have much less hose length compared to the front. Can you lock up your rear brake? If not, then you certainly do have a problem.

Q:Is it possible to switch or change the position of the throttle on a motorcycle?Example: Could the throttle and brake controls be placed on the left side of the handle bars and the clutch be moved over to the right? Also, is there another way to adapt or change up the throttle for persons with limited hand mobility or other disabilities?: It COULD be done. Exile Cycles have rigged bikes that didn't have a front brake lever. Everything is controlled with the rear brake pedal. The fluid is distributed through a proportioning valve. The throttle would work best with a 2 cable housing, then the cable run can be switched. In other words, the cable to open the throttle NOW closes it, and vice versa. This just leaves the clutch, which you'd have to mount on the right hand bar. Another thought. Exile Cycles also has a setup the instead of a clutch lever on the left bar, the left grip is twisted, like the throttle is on the right.

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