Auto Parts Semi-Metal Car Brake Pad System 1

Auto Parts Semi-Metal Car Brake Pad

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Auto Parts Semi-Metal Car Brake Pad

Q: Simple question that i want to know answer to.: The 2 most general conditions are-bad main and rod bearings on the crankshaft which allows both the crank and rods to throw up past tolerance levels and the piston crashes into the valve.The other is usually a keeper pops on top of the valve and allows the valve to drop and crash into the piston,caused by high or prolonged rpm's

Q: I know that front brakes control the front wheel and rear brakes the rear wheel. However, I remember in the MSF course that I should only use rear brake before making a tight, slow turn, and never the front brakes. In addition, I should also use rear brake when stopping from a high speed, and not so much the front brakes. My question is, when is the appropriate time to use each brake when riding? I would love an explanation.: For most long stops ill use a bit of both brakes. for short stops and turns i use the front brake. Also never slam a motorcycle's breaks like a cars or you'll fly like a rag doll.

Q: Today after I stopped for gas on my Suzuki Bandit 600, the front brakes locked up. After driving home with this condition the calipers were smoking, only way I could get the motorcycle home. I need some advice on what would cause this problem and what to look out for? I also took off the calipers and the cylinders seemed to compress without difficulty. I also inspected the master cylinder and it seemed to be pumping fine. One thing I noticed was that the left front rotor seemed to be slightly warped, but that could be due to the brakes being locked and me riding it home. Also I have never had any prior brake problems and they were working correctly the day before.: You say you removed the calipers and the pistons compressed easily. That means the pistons aren't stuck, normally caused when moisture in the system corrodes the cylinder. That leaves the lines and master cylinder. Old brakes lines sometimes swell internally and won't let the fluid return to the master cylinder, keeping them applied. If your bike has dual discs up front, were both of them hot? If so, that rules out the two lower brake lines because the probability of two lines both failing at the same time is astronomical. However, it could be the line from the junction to the master cylinder that's failed or either if your bike has a single front brake. A swelled line will usually relieve the pressure if allowed to set over night. You leave ok but as soon as you apply the brakes real hard, it locks up. The master cylinder could be bad, but I don't really suspect that. The little return hole could be plugged, but with fluid pushing out the hole, it would be hard for a piece of crud to stay lodged in there. Bad seals on the master cylinder usually fails to pressure up the system, not depressure it. If the system were together, you could apply the brakes hard to stick them and thenstart loosening the banjo bolts at the different connections. For example with the brakes stuck, if loosening the bolt at the master cylinder makes no difference, then that rules it out. If you loosen the bolt where the single like connects to the junction block and the brakes still stick, then you go to the lower lines. If you loosed the bolt at the caliper and fluid squirts out and the brake releases, you know it's that lower line. If the brake stays locked, then it's the piston stuck in the cylinder.

Q: Hi guys, I've got a 99 CB400, been doing recent work on it and when it came to bleeding the front brakes,they simply wont bleed..I've checked the master cylinder located below the reservoir and had a worn seal changed in it. After that,checked if it was working and bled just the master cylinder with the hoses to the calipers disconnected, than tried to bleed the calipers but no luck,just a few bubbles from time to time. Sometimes the bubble would actually go back into the hose instead of going completely out.Can anyone help please from personal experience or please redirect me to a post that sheds some light on this situation? I have also checked the hoses, there are no tears. Could changing the washers and putting new ones help?: Remove the caliper. Put a piece of wood or metal inbetween the brake pads (where the rotor would go). Hold the caliper high above the master cylinder, then bleed as normal. The air will rise up to the caliper so it will be bled at the bleeder screw.

Q: I have a 1994 Suzuki Intruder 800. I bought it earlier this summer, probably should have gotten this done already but havn't. How much should I expect to pay for an oil change and also for front and rear brakes?: For parts you can estimate around $20 for the oil and filter. Maybe around $90 to $150 for pads. Of course, those estimates vary depending on the price markup and the brand that is used for these parts. So, for parts you have, let's say; around $120. Most shops charge in the $50-$75/hour labor range. Let's go with something in the middle; $60/hour. The oil change will take about 1/2 hours ($30 labor). The pads shouldn't take much more than one hour ($60). So, add that up. $120 parts plus $90 labor gives up a bill of about $210. Both are pretty easy to do yourself. A few internet searches should provide you with some good helpful hints on doing the job yourself. Good luck. Ride safe.

Q: Beautiful loveA young couple rode motorcycle at night.they loved each other heartly. womandrive slow, i am affriad.reply man:no , this is very better woman i exquse you,i am affriad manwell, but you must tell me , i love you woman i love you,maybe you drive slowly man catch me strong womanok ,drive slowlymanok, but you must remove my hat to your head because with cosquet i can‘t drive good .next day newspapers wrotea motocycle accidents to a building and incidents.in this accident which cut off the brake and one of that drive killed.young man knew that brake cut off .he did n‘t Informed her that problem and Tricked her to love.he fixed his cosquet on her head.and he want heared from her last timei love youhe died because she would live.that is real love.beautiful love: Jack stands or ramps are the only real safe methods to work under your car (when it comes to working on it at home)

Q: What was the first mass produced motorcycle with a disc brake?: I came across the same information. The 1969 Honda CB750.

Q: I bough a used bike and after learning all the various necessary checks, realized that the dealer left the brake fluid at the low fill lines. I want to top up and got the recommended fluid for my Triumph Speedmaster (DOT 4). But I have no idea what brand is in there. I have to assume it is also the recommended DOT 4. Would it be safe to top up? Also, are you supposed to discard what‘s left in the bottle after a top-up?: As stated before, use an unopened bottle of DOT 4 when you top up the reservoirs. Just make sure that you know the proper method of checking the fluid levels. DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids are both alcohol based fluids. These types tend to absorb water because of the alcohol base. DOT 5 is silicone based. Does not absorb water like 3 or 4. It does have a lower boiling point than 3 or 4 do. NOW, never drain type 3 or 4 to fill with 5, or drain 5 to fill with 3 or 4. If you do this the different fluid bases will cause your seals to deteriorate at a very fast rate and you will have no brakes. Bad thing to do if you want to keep living. Use only what the manufacturer recommends. Also, the two types are not mixable whatsoever!

Q: left side lower ribcage is swollen and bruised and yes it hurts bad. I laid my motorcycle down trying to make a corner too fast.: Go to the hospital mate - it could be a number of things

Q: I was putting on a new brake light and might have connected the wrong wires the light wont turn on nor the motorcycle could i have short circuited the battery it still gives 12v when off what can i do to fix it: The Main fuse is located just outside the battery-box on the Red lead (+).

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