• Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299)  Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate System 1
  • Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299)  Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate System 2
  • Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299)  Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate System 3
  • Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299)  Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate System 4
Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299)  Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate

Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299) Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Certification:ECE

Type:Brake Discs

Material:Non-Asbestos

Position:Front

Export Markets:Global

Product Description

Brake disc 
Standard: E-MARK 
Origin: China 
Features: 
1) Hardness: 180-240HB 
2) Long service life 
3) 100% crucial dimension inspection 
4) 100% qualification 
5) Low noise 
Standard for casting is G3000. Standard for machining is SAE-J431. 
We use AIMCO# and OEM# and right now we have more than 1, 900 items that can be supplied to the aftermarket 

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

3102

3438

5361

5588

8978

31163

31353

3104

3441

5362

5590

8979

31164

31354

3106

3444

5364

5593

8980

31165

31355

3107

3445

5365

5594

8981

31166

31356

3108

3446

5366

5595

8983

31168

31357

3110

3451

5367

5596

8984

31169

31358

3111

3452

5368

5598

8985

31170

31359

3112

3455

5370

5599

8986

31172

31360

3114

3457

5371

5601

8987

31173

31361

3116

3458

5372

5606

8988

31174

31362

3117

3459

5373

5607

8989

31175

31363

3118

3460

5374

5610

8990

31176

31364

3120

3462

5375

5614

8991

31177

31365

3122

3464

5376

5617

8992

31178

31366

3123

3466

5377

5618

8993

31179

31367

3124

3467

5378

5703

8994

31181

31368

3125

3468

5379

5704

8995

31182

31369

3126

3469

5381

5712

8996

31184

31370

3130

3470

5382

8101

8997

31185

31371

3132

3471

5383

8105

8998

31186

31372

3133

3472

5386

8106

8999

31188

31373

3134

3477

5387

8108

31000

31189

31374

3136

3479

5388

8109

31001

31192

31375

3137

3480

5389

8124

31002

31193

31376

3138

3482

5393

8141

31003

31197

31377

3140

3483

5394

8146

31004

31198

31378

3141

3485

5395

8147

31005

31199

31379

3146

3487

5396

8160

31006

31201

31380

3150

3488

5397

8163

31007

31202

31381

3151

3489

5398

8171

31008

31203

31382

3152

3497

5399

8173

31009

31204

31383

3153

3498

5401

8179

31010

31205

31384

3154

3502

5404

8190

31011

31208

31385

 

Q: I‘m working on plans for an electric motorcycle conversion. I‘d like to do a Continuously Variable Transmission in order to maximize battery power and speed. The bike is shaft-driven, which makes it particularly difficult to change gear ratios in any direct drive manner, but also makes it good for a CVT. However, I‘m wondering what the effect of a CVT is on regenerative braking? More effective? Less effective? No effect? Also, any ideas for locating/salvaging and appropriate CVT? The ones I‘m familiar with are from 90‘s Honda Civics, and I‘m not sure it‘s feasible to try to adapt. Thanks!
There's a CVT in the Prius, I think CVT will make regenerative braking easier to control, if not more effective. I'm not sure if there is an appropriate CVT for use on a motorcycle, every one I've heard of is in a car. Even small cars usually have much heavier transmissions than you'd find on a bike. For an electric bike, why do you need a transmission at all? Most electric motors can handle the torque and rpms of driving with no transmission, and very little difference in efficiency based on rpms. If your motor can handle that, why not save yourself 20-60 lbs? Less weight, less things to break, simpler regenerative braking.
Q: Need a front brake hose for a 1981 Honda CM 400A Hondamatic. Would appreciate any links. Thanks.
This is a motorcycle. Since it is a Honda, go to your Honda dealer and get one. The worse case is that you may have to take the fittings off and have one made for you at a hydraulic shop. Most places that service tractors (John Deere, Massey Fergusson etc.) should be able to do it or at least tell you where they get theirs done.
Q: whats up guys ive been wanting to go to motorcycle mechanics institute for awhile now i have a passion for bikes and love working on them i wanted to go to motorcycle mechanics institute in Arizona but ive been reading and ive only seen bad reviews i want to eventually work at a shop then start up my own shop any ideas on what i should do thanks for the help
i list them in order from fastest to slowest iron+paint iron +zinc iron +tin iron+plastic i think this is how it'd go down )
Q: ANYONE SELLING,THIS IS MY FIRST BIKE
How would you like to buy a Honda 80 cc 2001 Elite as first time bike ? Travels up to 50 miles per hour.
Q: Do i need a motorcycle license to ride a 49cc pocketbike legally in michigan?
Definition of a Motorcycle A motorcycle is a two- or three-wheeled motor vehicle with a saddle or seat that produces more than 2.0 brake horsepower and can attain speeds greater than 30 mph on a level surface. Some vehicles, such as pocket rockets or mini choppers, may meet this definition, but do not have all of the equipment required by Michigan law to legally drive them on public roads and will not be registered by the Department of State. www.michigan /sos/0,1607,7-127. 257.32b “Moped” defined. Sec. 32b. “Moped” means a 2- or 3-wheeled vehicle which is equipped with a motor that does not exceed 50 cubic centimeters piston displacement, produces 2.0 brake horsepower or less, and cannot propel the vehicle at a speed greater than 30 miles per hour on a level surface. The power drive system shall not require the operator to shift gears. www.legislature.mi /(S(3j2m0i2. No license reqiured. It won't be registered by the state. It's not a moped. To ride a pocket bike (even a super pocket bike) legally, you must ride on private property with the owner's permission. Might as well get a dirt bike.
Q: upshifting and downshifting, how to know when to shift, how to shift when slowing down while applying the brake?
Some things are easier to do than to understand. Once you start doing them, you'll understand them better. Basically you want to keep the engine in a certain range of RPM. Lower than that range and can feel the engine isn't 'happy', it doesn't run smoothly and it doesn't make a lot of power. Above that range you can damage the engine (or blow it up altogether). So if your engine is 'lugging' (going too slow), you shift down and it instantly feels better. If the engine is screaming, or you're getting near the redline on the tach, you shift up. Engines that will easily go above the redline usually have some kind of electronic limiter on them so you -can't- over-rev them. After a while you can -feel- when you need to shift, and a little while after that it becomes automatic and you might not even realize you're doing it. The clutch simply disconnects the engine from the transmission. You pull it in to shift, then let it back out. You can also hold the clutch in while you're stopped at a light. And to start from a standing stop you pull the clutch in to shift from neutral to first, then let it out slowly and carefully to get moving. You can also downshift to slow down. This is sometimes called 'engine braking' because you are using the engine to slow down. You do this in a corner or a curve, because you need to slow down, then speed up again. So you shift down a gear, or maybe two, and let the clutch back out, and that slows you down. Then when you want to speed up again, you're already in the appropriate gear. As I said, this sounds a lot more complicated than it really is. On a motorcycle, more than perhaps any other motorized conveyance, you are listening to the engine, feeling the engine. The engine is keeping you company! The engine will tell you when you need to shift, and you will gain skill with the clutch just through practice.
Q: I would like to know what the role of brake oil in the braking process, the principle of this brake is what if the brake oil will be less
The brake fluid is a liquid medium that transmits the brake pressure in the hydraulic brake system and is used in a vehicle using a hydraulic brake system. Brake fluid, also known as brake oil or forced oil, its English name Brake Fluid, is an indispensable part of the braking system brake, and in the braking system, it is as a force transmission medium, because the liquid is Can not be compressed, so the pressure from the main pump output through the brake fluid directly to the pump
Q: So i changed the front pads of my sportbike..introduction: (at beggining the front brake lever was too low almost touching the handle to brake. When i changed the new pads, nothing really changed so i put a little top inside the regulation of the lever just to put it upper, so when i brake dont go too down )the problem.So after changing the pads, the bike got really braked,the wheel dont turn, and after a while it virtually stopped the bike too sudden, and got overheated on the disc rotors..i had to bleed them but after a little ride it happens again the bike brakes itself, and become really hard.the funny thing is that overnight the brakes got released itself and the wheel turns again.. until i brake a couple of times when it gets stucked again..What is it =(what i did wrong?whats the solution thanks!!mech experts 10 pts.
I have had this happen before. What has happened is that the pistons which push the brake pads have come out of the caliper too far, and jammed. You can pull them out and clean them up, which is ok if you have the time, inclination and tools. I have done it before, but last time I put it into the shop and I think it was $160 to fix.
Q: I am currently (16) years old amp; I am wanting to buy my first motorcycle. Let me first start by saying: I have rode a 150cc Scooter on the (ROAD) since I was (12) years old.I (DO) know the laws of the road and I have had a lot of on road experience. I driven the scooter on freeways as well. Before the 150cc scooter I use to ride my brothers YZ250. I am EXPERIENCED.I am VERY mature about riding too. I have never gotten pulled over, because the police know I am a (RESPONSIBLE) rider. Summer is coming up and I want to purchase my first (REAL) bike.I was looking at the 2013 Suzuki GSX-R 600. The GSX-R‘s above 2008 have a A.B.C mode which basically means it has 3 power modes. A: is full power, B: is about 75% power amp; C: is for riding in rainI realize 600 is a lot to start on but I have been on the road for 4 years now, on a scooter that would do 65MPH. And I (DO) have my license. Since I have had on road experience should I get the GSXR?
Anything other than stock size is a *downgrade* -- bigger may rub parts and will hurt performance.

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