Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299) Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate

Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299) Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate System 1

Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299) Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate System 2

Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299) Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Certification:ECE

Type:Brake Discs

Material:Non-Asbestos

Position:Front

Export Markets:Global

Product Description

Brake disc
Standard: E-MARK
Origin: China
Features:
1) Hardness: 180-240HB
2) Long service life
3) 100% crucial dimension inspection
4) 100% qualification
5) Low noise
Standard for casting is G3000. Standard for machining is SAE-J431.
We use AIMCO# and OEM# and right now we have more than 1, 900 items that can be supplied to the aftermarket

AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#
3102	3438	5361	5588	8978	31163	31353
3104	3441	5362	5590	8979	31164	31354
3106	3444	5364	5593	8980	31165	31355
3107	3445	5365	5594	8981	31166	31356
3108	3446	5366	5595	8983	31168	31357
3110	3451	5367	5596	8984	31169	31358
3111	3452	5368	5598	8985	31170	31359
3112	3455	5370	5599	8986	31172	31360
3114	3457	5371	5601	8987	31173	31361
3116	3458	5372	5606	8988	31174	31362
3117	3459	5373	5607	8989	31175	31363
3118	3460	5374	5610	8990	31176	31364
3120	3462	5375	5614	8991	31177	31365
3122	3464	5376	5617	8992	31178	31366
3123	3466	5377	5618	8993	31179	31367
3124	3467	5378	5703	8994	31181	31368
3125	3468	5379	5704	8995	31182	31369
3126	3469	5381	5712	8996	31184	31370
3130	3470	5382	8101	8997	31185	31371
3132	3471	5383	8105	8998	31186	31372
3133	3472	5386	8106	8999	31188	31373
3134	3477	5387	8108	31000	31189	31374
3136	3479	5388	8109	31001	31192	31375
3137	3480	5389	8124	31002	31193	31376
3138	3482	5393	8141	31003	31197	31377
3140	3483	5394	8146	31004	31198	31378
3141	3485	5395	8147	31005	31199	31379
3146	3487	5396	8160	31006	31201	31380
3150	3488	5397	8163	31007	31202	31381
3151	3489	5398	8171	31008	31203	31382
3152	3497	5399	8173	31009	31204	31383
3153	3498	5401	8179	31010	31205	31384
3154	3502	5404	8190	31011	31208	31385

Disc Brake 43512-17120 (31299) Brake Discs/Rotors with Ts16949 Certificate

Q:I‘m interested in knowing the manufacturing process of the motrcycle parts mentioned:piston,engine block, brake shoe. Also, a full equipment requirement for manufacturing these products and the dealers involved as well as the invoices for these equipment. It‘s not impossible but tasking: Pistons are usually made from medium carbon steel and turned on a lathe, engine blocks are made from steel and are made either by hand (expensive) or on a CNC mill,

Q:I‘ve taken the MSF class and everything, but don‘t have my own motorcycle yet. During the class we would only primarily be in 2nd or 1st gear the whole time, so here‘s what I don‘t understand.If I‘m in 3rd gear or so and I have a red light up ahead of me which I expect will turn green pretty soon, how do I use both the brakes and downshifting at the same time to slow down? I want to use my brakes so the brake lights turn on and the car behind me knows what I‘m doing, but at the same time, I don‘t want to just pull in the clutch and brake to a point of being too slow to be in 3rd gear to start moving again. Should I hold the back brake down while downshifting so my engine speed can match my road speed?: Often you want to slow way down but you don't want to stop. Like if you're going around a corner or a tight curve. If you're in top gear, or a high gear, you pull in the clutch and shift down, then when you let out the clutch the engine speeds up and it will slow you down--that's called 'engine braking'. You're going to need that lower gear to speed up again, so it works good in both directions. With a little practice you learn to decide whether you need to downshift one gear or two, or even more, for instance if you are slowing from 75 mph to 20. If you make the wrong choice, when you speed up again you find you're either in too high or too low a gear, so you make the correction quickly, in a fraction of a second. The business of clutching and shifting is several discrete steps--roll off the throttle, pull in the clutch, shift, let out the clutch while perhaps adding a little throttle. It sounds complicated to talk about, but in practice you do it so often that it becomes like one fluid motion.

Q:I am new bike rider i have a few doubts1 is it best to brake first and shift down or shift down and then brake2 when to use clutch and when not to3 also which is the safe method to drive in hills i.e. to use clutch and brake or drive in higher gears please specify for both uphill and down hill4 why engine stalls when we brake without clutchPlease give elaborate answers rather than saying go to some school or somethingi am from india: Use the front first and heavier, 80% of the braking is done by the front due to the weight shift. #2 Experienced riders can shift up and down without a clutch but use it as a matter of course. until you are more experienced. #3 Use the brakes uphill and down to small adjustments in speed, Use the lower gears up and down, uphill you need the power of the gears to pull with, downhill you need the gears to hold the speed down, Cross country truckers have used this method for decades. #4 When slowing to a stop the engine tries to turn the wheel and the brakes try to stop it, the clutch is there to disengage the engine. Good luck and be safe, rubber side down is more important than shiny side up.

Q:Yesterday while riding my brand new yamaha dirt bike i had trouble understanding how to brake....My dad told me i had to hold the clutch and apply the brake gently ,and im trying to figure out if when i go to a complete stop do i shift back to first or apply more gas on the gear im currently on Please Help Thanks: You can either apply the clutch, come to a complete stop with the brakes, then downshift back to 1st. Or you can let off the throttle and use the engine to help you brake, but remember to downshift when the engine revs down to a lug or about 1500rpm if you have a tachometer. This is important because if the engine stalls and dies, the rear tire will lock up and skid. The first method is best for a quick stop, while the second is better for a gradual easy stop.

Q:Every Time I down shift (say im in 5th gear) when I start releasing out the clutch I can feel the bike jerking, am I suppose to give it some throttle when I downshift or start giving it some brakes? Can some one please tell me what I'm doing wrong. I have a ninja 250, 2005I just finished my msf course and they didn't teach us engine braking: engine brake is the resistance of the engine when you release the clutch without throttle. the clutch tries to match the speend of the engine (rpm) to the speed of the wheel (actualy speed) releasing the throttle, and releasing the clutch, while in gear is engine braking. some do it, some don't.

Q:I have 2005 Harley sportser xl 883, Rear brake has a slight squeal noise at very low speed, when brakes are not applied. With rear wheel off the ground, there is a slight drag on the wheel, brake pads look okay, disk is not discolored: Squealing brakes are usually caused by some sort of pad contamination. I had pulsing and slight squealing on my Buell Cyclone brakes. I read online that you should clean the rotor with steel wool or scotchbrite and brake cleaner. Then they said to take the pads out and dress them up on a sheet of medium grit sand paper laid on a flat surface. They had me take the right pad and put it on the left and the left on the right. Oh, you also need to put a very slight bevel on the edges of the pads. It 100% cured the problem and took about 1/2 hour. When it happened again the next season, I replaced the pads with Lyndall Golds and never had a problem again.

Q:I have a 1975 Kawasaki 400cc motorcycle that was given to me. It is rusted, old and hasn‘t run in probably about 10 years. I know it needs a new clutch cable and a brake cable. Ok, so after I replace those, what is the best way to go about fixing it and getting it running since I have no idea what is wrong with it (I‘m only 16). If I take it to a repair shop, what would it cost to find out everything that I need to get it running, or an estimate?: If it has been down that long you are looking at a very wide range of possible issues. Figure all the seals are probably dried out and will need to be replaced. If fluids were left in the engine then they will probably have separated and turned into a gummy mess. If there is any rust inside the engine then it will cause issues. Anything rubber (like tires) or fabric is probably dried out and will crack as well. If you really want to save it then take it to a good mechanic, or get the service manual on the bike and do a complete overhaul yourself. Unless this is a classic bike you will put more into it than you will ever see out of it, so do it for yourself if you really like the bike.

Q:I don't race or do track days, but rather commute to work on my 2002 GSXR 600. What kinds of brake pads would you recommend? Organic? Sintered? Carbon-Graphite? Any suggestions on where to buy pads from?: For the best answers, search on this site shorturl.im/awesf Respectfully, you are asking the wrong people. Why not ask the people at your state's DMV? They are the experts. We are not. Partially due to the fast A) I would never buy a bike without a title B) I know my state of residence and know how to visit my local DMV for a straight answer to my questions. Have to ask, why are you considering this purchase with so much risk? Also, is this your first motorcycle? I'll await your answer.

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