Self-Priming Jet Pump for Irrigation (JET60S)

Self-Priming Jet Pump for Irrigation (JET60S) System 1

Self-Priming Jet Pump for Irrigation (JET60S)

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Basic Info of Self-Priming Jet Pump for Irrigation (JET60S)Model NO.:JET60S

Performance:Self-Priming Pump

Applications:Household & Agricultural Pump

Working Fluid:Water

Type:Jet Pump

Export Markets:Global

Application of Self-Priming Jet Pump for Irrigation (JET60S)

For water supply from wells or reservoirs.

For domestic use. for civil and industrial applications.
For garden use and irrigation

Operating conditions of Self-Priming Jet Pump for Irrigation (JET60S)

Maximum fluid temperature up to +60º C
Maximum ambient temperature up to +40º C
Maximum sand content: 0.25%
Total suction lift up to 8 m.
Continous duty

Motor and pump

Rewindable motor
Three-phase: 380V-415V, Single-phase: 220V-240
Insulation: Class B
Protection: IP44

Structural characteristics of Self-Priming Jet Pump for Irrigation (JET60S)

Pump body: Cast iron
Front cover: Cast iron
Diffuser: Noryl
Impeller: Brass/Plastic/PPO
Mechanical seal: Ceramic and graphite
Shaft: 45# steel/stainless steel
Motor case: Aluminum

Warranty:1 year
(according to our general sales conditions)

Performance Table

FAQ

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?

A: Yes, the WQ models.

Q: How long is your warranty?

A: Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

Self-Priming Jet Pump for Irrigation (JET60S)

Q: i need help on how to replace a water pump oil seal in a 2001 rm80...i looked everywhere...if you can get a video or detailed info that be great, thanks: Drain coolant - #13 drain bolt Remove hose from water pump cover Remove water pump cover - #12 Drain oil Remove R side cover - #1 Remove circlip - #23 Remove water pump shaft - #19 Pull out water pump seal - #20 Note the direction the seal is installed Tap in new seal This entire procedure is explained in detail in your service manual.

Q: We have a 2001 mazda tribute that has been leaking coolant and overheating. we thought it was just the radiator, so we replaced it, but it is still doing it. It leaks pretty rapidly, and overheats pretty fast too (in 1 to 2 miles of city traffic) Does this sound more like a hose or the water pump? how difficult will it be to replace the water pump?: With the engine running at idle take a look at your coolant resevoir and follow the lines. If it is a hose leak you should be able to see it no problem. When is the last time the radiator was flushed? You could have a blockage in there somewhere too. Depending on how handy you are will determine how difficult the water pump is to replace if that is the problem. Some help can be found online by looking for a Mazda forum. Good luck

Q: what is a submersible well pump?: It is exactly what it sounds like-a water pump that you put in your well under water. It pumps the water into the house directly from the well, and uses the water as a coolant. Usually they are about 18-24 inches long, about 3-5 inches around, and weight about 40 pounds; and cost a small fortune (if you ask me anyway). Depending upon who you ask they are also the most efficient way to get the water from your well to the house, and do not need anywhere near as much servicing as above ground or in-house pump. Ask your local pump dealer which pump is best for you and the needs of your household-they should be able to give you several to choose from.

Q: How can I test to be sure my water pump is working before I go to the lake and burn up my motor. `72 65hp johnson. thank you.: You have essentially two correct answers, but looking at the year of your engine I would like to add some clarity. If memory serves, the 1972 engine doesn't have what we today think of as a tell-tale. Meaning that nice little stream of water that comes out of a tube on the starboard side of the engine. Using my poor memory I believe there is and exhaust port, usually one or two outlets together, centered in the rear of the engine, just below the fiberglass engine cover, maybe a little lower. And again, if memory serves, water doesn't flow in a stream from there, but kinda comes bubbling/spraying out. This will be the place to check for exhaust water, and whether or not the impeller is working. Also, like the idea of using the earmuffs, just in case there is thru-hub exhaust you can see it also. If the hub is in the water you can see it exhaust water.

Q: ok so i have a crack in my radiator a small crack but anyways yesterday it caused my car to over heat. i normally keep coolant in the car but it just got low and over heated pretty bad. so today the car is making a really loud annoying noise. coolant is also draining out of the bottom of the engine when the car is on. at a pretty good pace. it is coming out like right under the belt area so my friend said it is probably the water pump baring and he said it could have gotten damaged when it over heated. so i think these symptoms def point to the water pump. anyways i called a mechanic and he said that he had to change the belt to and he said he had to charge me $385. what you guys think. does he need to change the pump and the belt or just the pump? and is $385 a rip off or is that the going rate? thank you all for your knowledgeand information: Read the above PLUS realize that you MUST use ONLY genuine Toyote coolant in your car. Other coolants will cause further deterioration of your cooling components. I have seen Toyota cylinder heads that look like Swiss cheese from using the green stuff. Also, make sure that your mechanic uses only genuine Toyota replacement parts, and NOT rebuilt pump. Replace the tensioner and idler pulleys now, as well. The price is a rip off if cheaper parts are being used. If these are all factory parts, then this price is GREAT!!

Q: I have a 1 HP water pump that will pump water through a 1 and 1/2hose. What is the approx. GPM (just to have a reference) of a pump like this?: It varies quite a bit but I would say anywhere from 6gpm - 10gpm.

Q: PROline Dishwasher has Broken down, after a detailed Examination of the appliance we have managed to conclude it is the Water Pump, I'm looking to find a new one to repair it myself but would like to know if any make one would fit, as Finding a PROline Water Pump has proven Great Difficulty, Any Knowledge of the matter would be greatly appreciated, Thank you: Unless you are sure that the problem is the water pump, you might want to check the hose to make sure it isn't clogged up and not allowing the water to drain out correctly. If you do need to change the pump, you will most likely have to replace it with the same pump. If you haven't done so, try going on line and enter your dishwasher make, model, and enter water pump and see what you can come up with. If your washer is an older model, it is possible it is no longer being made and it might be difficult to find parts for it. You might also try calling around in your local area to some appliance stores and ask them about finding the part or where you might find the part. You could also contact a repair service and just ask them if they can find the part for you if you are going to fix it yourself. If the pumps are still being made, any appliance repair service should be able to get you the part. If you can find a store that sells that brand of washer, they to should be able to get the pump for you to.

Q: This is what it is doing- the actual pump that is in its own little shed CLICKS all of the time water is being ran, even a small amount of water. The water pressure goes to a slow trickle and eventually stops completely. After about 20-30 minutes I go back and check the spickets and the water is fine, but quickly repeats this same cycle. We just installed this pump about 3 weeks ago. It was doing fine until last week. Does it need to be primed or pressure switch settings increased or decreased? Or am I talking totally out of my head?!: Might be air in the water lines. Be careful and don't allow the pump to run very long when it isn't pumping any water or you will be buying another pump. It sounds like it is loosing it's prime as it builds up enough to send water to the faucets and then looses it's prime and then has to wait until it builds up enough to start over again. You may need to call someone out and have them run down the problem before you burn up your new pump.

Q: I am new to saltwater tank, and i what to add a sump to my tank, but I don't know what to add to it. what water pump? do i add the filter to the sump or does the filter stay in the tank.: If you're using a sump, the pump you use will have to be chosen based on the size of your tank and how much flow you need. The kinds of fully submersible pumps that are used for ponds and other aquarium applications are best. You really could put your filter on either, but most people I know that keep saltwater [and myself included] keep filters, heaters, and skimmers in the sump so they're out of sight. This also gives you more room in the display tank for live rock and fish if the equipment isn't crowded in there. All you really need to have in the display are powerheads to keep the water circulating so dead spots don't build up. And without the equipment hanging on the back, and only power cords coming out, you can use a glass cover to reduce evaporation and keep your fish from jumping out.

Q: I'm curious to know, where does the water go after it is sent to a pumping station??: Potable (drinkable) water pumps placed just outside the treatment plant boost pressure in the water mains, where it eventually gets to homes, businesses and hydrants via the pipe network. Most sewers flow by gravity (downhill) to a waste water treatment plant (or septic field). But if an area is too low to be serviced by a gravity sewer, an ejector pump is set at the bottom of a collection well which pumps the wastewater to a higher elevation in a pressure pipe called a force main. A good pump station will kick on about 4 or 5 times an hour and run for several minutes. Eventually it outlets to a manhole in a gravity system and ultimately the treatment plant.

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