• Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 3
Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump

Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Self Priming End Suction Pump (Self Priming Pump,Base Plate Pump)


1. Main Features:
   a) Compact structure
   b) Attractive design
   c) Low noise, steady performance
   d) No leakage
   e) High concentricity of components
   f) Easy installation, easy maintenance


2. Applications:
   a) Petroleum Industry
   b) Chemical Industry
   c) Pharmacy and Health
   d) Environmental and Water treatment
   e)electroplating industry
   f)Environmental protection
   g)food service industry
   h)Printing and dyeing area
   i)textile industry, etc

3.Technical Parameter:
   a) Flow: 3.8- 200m³/h
   b) Head: 20-80m
   c) Operating Temperature:-20 - 100°C
   d) Shaft Sealing : Gland / Mech. Seal
   e)Motor: Closed, externally ventilated
   f)Insulation class: Class F i
   g)Protection class: IP54/IP55
   h)Duty: Continuously rated

4.Packing

All of our products are packed in plywood cases to ensure the safety of products. You can also have special requirements for the package. You may just tell us your demand and we will arrange everything from the initial consultation to the delivery of your chosen port anywhere in the world timely.

Self-priming End Suction Centrifugal Pump

5. FAQ

1       Do you have pumps with grinders?

Yes, the WQ models.

2       How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.


Q: I just opened up the water pump on my '86 cr250 and found it to be pretty dry. Found out why as soon as I threw some light on it. Yep, all but a TINY hole in both hose nipples (?) are completely gunked up in some nice light green/white crap.Does anybody know what this is? Okay obviously it's coolant, but why is it so dry? What causes it? My bike never quot;overheatedquot;, but there's very little travel room for the liquid. What should I do now? Clean it out and run new water through it?
Appears your cooling system has not been flushed for years thus the build-up of slime, (seems maybe even 'dry-slime'). The cooling system should be flushed clean, a new water pump and gaskets installed.
Q: can anyone show me the steps on how to remove the water pump on a 1995 dodge intrepid 3.5l engine?
im not too sure on that year, but i know that on the 2nd gen. intrepids the water pumps are a real pain to change. easiest way is to pull the engine, but thats not always practicle. dont quote me on this, but i think its behind the timing chain cover.
Q: I was driving when my temp gauge shot up all the way so i pulled off the next exit and my car shut off and started smoking i noticed the water pump belt was in shreds and what seemed to be anti freeze fluid and water was everywhere. I'm curious what could have broke maybe a gasket or the waterpump it's self besides just the belt?
The bearings within the pump, or the belt tensioner pulley bearings, or even the alternator could have gone bad. Any one of the components that draw from the serpentine belt may be the origin.Once the engine cools it may be determined which component caused the failure. If the water pump turns freely then it's not the source and can be ruled out. Same with the tensioner pulley.
Q: What does the pump lift mean?
The pump head is the height or length of the distance from the pump to the outlet
Q: motor overheats but no leak. water just boils in resorvoir. is it hard to do it on my own?
Its generally around 60 to 75 thousand miles, you want to change that belt. And yes. most of the people saying do the water pump at the same time are correct. That belt rides off the waterpump. That pump only costs around 20 to 25 bucks. it will save you all that extra labor in the end if that pump should fail. Do you HAVE to do the waterpump? NO Should you as a preventive maintenance measure YES.
Q: its a honda accord 1991 Lx my car started overheating only when i stop when i go it doesnt overheat what should i check like the water pump
First- don't make assumptions. Let's begin with what you know: your car overheats when you stop but not when you drive. That's not the water pump. To get a good diagnosis, you should get a repair manual and read the troubleshooting chapter. Look for your symptoms and try to identify the problem. Without knowing more, you're driving a ten-year old cooling system. Possibly there' some build-up in the radiator that reduces flow of coolant. Could also be build-up in the cooling jackets in the motor. The controls for the electric fan could be failing, so the fan's not operating when the temperature goes up. And when you drive, air goes through the radiator sufficiently so it doesn't overheat. Could be several factors, but not necessarily the water pump. Possibly the belt that drives the water pump is slipping, but you'd likely hear a squealing noise. Hope you find the problem without just swapping out lots of parts until the problem goes away. Take care!
Q: In the past 9 months, Ive went through 6 or 7 gallons of antifreeze, I was told this was not normal. Ive had my coolant tank flushed 4 times this year, only to be told thats not normal and one lasts a few years. Now that its colder outside my car takes a while to run hot of course, but during the summer it ran hot in about 15 minutes tops. I got a brand new coolant tank before I got another flush because I did have a leak, but that did not combat the problem. I had my radiator looked at and I was told thats fine. So im thinking either a cracked head gasket or a bad water pump...help please. im getting tired of putting money into this car only for the same stuff to keep happening.
Your better off lifting the gas cap and driving a real car under it.
Q: Okay so we have a water pump outside instead of city water. A few days ago we noticed that it would turn off like always once the tank was full but then just would never turn back on. It was odd to us since it would always turn on and off at appropriate times. Now its on maybe 10 seconds and it shuts off. I took off one of the clear hoses it has and notices a green ooze inside it. I cleaned out the ooze and tapped some of the pipes in hopes of some more of it coming out. Since we have had a leak there is green stuff which i am guessing is lime, on the side of the tank. I'm also guessing this must bee the green ooze. What should I do? Now there is no water whatsoever being pumped and the time it does turn on very little water passes through. To me it sounds like something is blocking the pipes but if I pay hundreds for someone to come replace the pipes and check out the motor I dont want to end up with this problem again. If anyone has any information as to helping me I would so greatly appreciate it.
do you have shallow or deep well its the middle of summer the well could be dry you might have lost your prime on your pump there will be a bolt for priming take bolt out pour water in to hole untill full restart pump if pump doesnt fill up you might a stuck foot valve.
Q: noise when i acclerate you cant hear it as much because of engine noise but when its at idle the squealing noise is somewhat loud does anyone know what it could be ? its not the water pump because i bought it new and im not overheating and the belts arent too tight either i have already checked them
did u get a mechanic to do it? or do it your self? in case you had a mechanic do it, ask them to restoration it in case you had no issues previous. ought to be thermostat, ought to be you dont have sufficient coolant in radiator or perhaps appropriate coolant to water ratio. All i understand is you need to bleed out the radiator to get rid of all air after water pump is taken off and placed back on, because might reason issues aswell. ok nicely you in basic terms as much as date it, so i'm too, your mechanic sounds like a dumb ****, he might desire to have bled air out of radiator, the certainty he instructed you is strange, might desire to have fastened it then and there. that's an considerable step of fixing water pump. If there is air in it, your radiator and water pump wont be rotating the water correct. tell him to restoration it and say you probably did your study and you at the instant are not paying yet another cent!
Q: I have a 1994 Plymoth Grand voyager and it is loosing anti freeze it was a little leak now I can't see it leaking but it is empty could it be the water pump? It does get hot now. what other things happen when your water pump is going out does the heater not get hot anymore?
particular !! The water pump actual circulates the coolant/anti-freeze for the duration of the engine. A leak is a commonl occurance. If I had a dime for each waterpump I replaced that each and absolutely everyone started leaking coolant i would not could artwork back !! additionally, the timing belt is relatively of a good sized interest in case you're actually not a mechanic or in no way carried out it in the past. Its not in basic terms a do away with and replace interest. The crankshaft and camshafts could be placed (timed) suitable while changing the belt so as that the engine runs wisely and you do not reason any substantial injury. i could propose which you're taking it right into a professional which you believe and ask for him/her to take a glance and make a suggestion.

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