• Plastic and Metal stand bulbs,HID xenon kits,HID bulbs ,HID ballasts 12V 35W System 1
  • Plastic and Metal stand bulbs,HID xenon kits,HID bulbs ,HID ballasts 12V 35W System 2
  • Plastic and Metal stand bulbs,HID xenon kits,HID bulbs ,HID ballasts 12V 35W System 3
Plastic and Metal stand bulbs,HID xenon kits,HID bulbs ,HID ballasts 12V 35W

Plastic and Metal stand bulbs,HID xenon kits,HID bulbs ,HID ballasts 12V 35W

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Model: AC12V/35W

Working Voltage Scope: 9-16V DC  9V-32V

Rated Voltage/Current: 12.5V/3.2A -+5A   3.5A

Operating Temperature: -40 ~ 105°C, ≤3000M Altitude

Store Temperature: -40 ~ 150, ≤3000M Altitude

Max. Start Voltage: 23kV

Switch Time : >100000 Times

Working Output: 35W±3W

Working Efficiency: ≥97%

Working Load Output Voltage: 85Vdc±10Vdc

Luminous Flux: 2500-3500LM (3X More Luminous Flux Than Halogen)

Lifespan: Above: 2500h (Up To 5 Times Longer Than Halogen)

Power Consumption: Saves You 57 Over Halogen

H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H11, H13, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, 880/881, H4L, H13L, D1S, D2S, D4S etc. Are the types of our bulbs. We just listed one model


Q: The service air conditioner light on our 1991 Cadillac sedan deville 4.9 comes on when I turn the air conditioner on. The electronic climate control will not let me turn on the heat or the ac. It just defaults to economy. The ac at this point no longer blows cold air. I push the off button and eventually the light goes out. Do you have any thoughts on what may be causing this? Thank you for your help in advance. Sincerely.Also I don‘t know if this matters but I had someone look at it and it was overcharged and I have never charged it and Ive owned it since new and it always worked like a charm
Those auto climate control systems are often a real pain to properly diagnose and repair.and costly. To start with, you should check any fuses for the system to see if they are blown and have the a/c system checked for proper chargeundercharge or overcharge can cause the system to stop working. The main PCM computer is also involved in operating the HVAC system depending on engine load and throttle position, engine temp, etcso you should have it tested for trouble codes.local parts stores usually offer this as a free service. Any trouble codes might lead to better diagnosing. A shop would have to test to see which system sensors, relays or other areas are not getting power or malfunctioning or diagnose a problem with the main climate control unit. Parts and labor can get pretty spendy so many people opt to switch out the automatic climate controls for a manual control system if the car is worth keeping long term or alter the climate system to perform more manually.bypassing the computer controls with on-off switches mounted to the instrument panel or console mounting platform.
Q: I just got a stab system failure when i was driving today. I was wondering how would it cost to repair this problem?Hummer 3 (2006) auto
Is there an intermittent rough idle? When was the last time you changed the oil? Dirty engine oil can cause the passage screens to blow out of the passage of the Camshaft Phaser Actuator Solenoid! Scan the PCM for any stored codes, If you find P0014 or P0017 You can bet this is the problem! This is a very common problem with the 3.5L engine! NOTE: On this vehicle, if certain codes are stored the PCM, it will send a DISABLE STABILITY message to the EBCM (electronic brake control module) and the MIL (check engine light) AND the STAB light/message will both appear!
Q: Just curious. I see the auto flush toilets and urinals (red blinky light where the flush handle used to be) quite a bit nowadays. How does the auto flush mechanism get its power? Is there just a battery or two in there? I don‘t see any electric running to them.
The system is typically a low voltage about 12 volts ac, that runs the sensor and the flush solenoid. The wires are run in the decorative trim to a low voltage connection point much the same as a doorbell.
Q: I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM SE the car has 114,000 miles on it. I was recently driving home from work and my check engine light came on. After that the car started to idle real bad. I have to release my foot from the gas to shift gears and every time it shifts the RPM‘s go up real high and it‘s very hard to drive up hills the RPM‘s go real high. And recently my coolant light started coming on and i will fill the coolant up and the coolant ain‘t cheap lol and when i look in the reservoir the coolant is empty and the coolant light blinks on and off and the engine light comes on when the car get‘s warmed up and it still idles real rough and it takes long to shift idk what‘s going on someone please help me
When you get a new shirt, scotch guard it or use another of the fabric protectants.
Q: I have a 2003 Mazda 6. Two weeks ago my check engine light came on. I was told that the code was 126 - And that there was a problem with the coolant system and obtaining optimal performance. The thermastat was replaced and all was OK for a week. However today while driving, I noticed the light come back on. The dashboard guage showed that the engine was running colder than normal (even after for driving on the highway for over 40 miles). Any ideas why the car would be running cold? Is it a bad idea to continue driving the car till I can get into the shop? I would like to have an idea of what needs to be fixed before I bring the car in - As they are always trying to take advantage.
No! It's a Performance Problem Lose of Fuel Mileage & Power. Di they Install the Right Thermostat for the Engine! (Think that Engine Uses a 195 Degree but Check it), Are the Hoses Good, Not Cracked or Overly Soft (Coming Apart Inside)? Good Radiator Shop to see if the System needs to be Flished/Boiled out? Something in the system (Rust) Damaging the Thermostat or Restricting Coolant Flow.
Q: The light illuminates when there is a malfunction of an exhaust gas related component, and the system is not functioning properly so that the exhaust gas regulation values are not satisfied What does this mean? I have hardly even been driving it at all the last two months. It says to go to the dealer but that is pretty far away and my warranty expired anyway and I cannot afford anything expensive right now. Does anyone know what this might mean and if I should even worry about it or is it something real simple? thanks!
Form-a-gasket does poorly, but aluminum foil is cheep, and works fine. Use contact adhesive to stick to the cabinet.
Q: About three weeks ago my engine light came on in my car and I‘d never had anything for wrong with it in the few years I had it. I took it to auto zone and they ran a test that came up saying that my gas cap was defective. It wasn‘t loose because it had be on both prior to and after filling up my car. They gave me a new gas cap and said to drive around for a while and the light would turn off on its own. Well it has been three weeks and my light is still on. What‘s wrong?
That tire is shot. You can't fix sidewall damage like that. Any bodge patch will leave you rubber side up/dead. Find a new shop. I would never, ever step in there again.
Q: maybe its 1000 - 1500 only does it in nutural and park and drive when at idle runs and drives great doesnt overheat has 154,000 miles i really need some help please i have 3 kids i changed the iac already but nothing changed!!
If you have a check engine light on, and it's a code for the idle control system, then you may need to repair or replace your engine computer. Because sometimes when the iac goes out, it fries a chip on the computer board. This is especially likely if you had noticed an electrical burning smell in the car when you first started having problems with the idle.
Q: This gun was made in Belgium. It has the Browning Arms Company stamp on it. The serial number is 27899, but right about the serial number it has 1G also.
The Browning Auto-5 Light 12 shotguns came with a variety of barrel configurations - and this is important in determining worth. Assuming a 98% condition gun with no poly-choke system on the end. Plain barrel $600 Solid rib barrel $850 Vent rib barrel $1,000 Again, the metal and wood have to be at least 98% condition. Which means, pretty doggone close to new.
Q: my ABS light stayes on also my 4x4 light keep trying to come on and i get a wrench light. it seems like my claipers are stuck i already changed them but the problem contuines. it like the truck won‘t pull off it just sit there no matter how much gas i give it.
The ABS modules are expensive. That being said you have more than one issue going on. The ABS light isn't too likely to be related to the inability to move the truck. Even with an inoperative ABS system the truck still has the ability to stop itself using the standard hydraulic braking system. The wrench light indicates there's a mechanical issue that needs to be fixed. The easiest way to isolate it is to have the codes scanned and go from there. The ABS system can be a chore to diagnose without a scanner designed for that purpose, unfortunately they are not the scanners the auto parts stores use for free. Your inability to get the truck moving is more likley to be related to the driveline/transmission.

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