• Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID power supply bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,Ultra bright.AC ballasts and AC big ballasts System 1
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID power supply bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,Ultra bright.AC ballasts and AC big ballasts System 2
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID power supply bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,Ultra bright.AC ballasts and AC big ballasts System 3
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID power supply bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,Ultra bright.AC ballasts and AC big ballasts System 4
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID power supply bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,Ultra bright.AC ballasts and AC big ballasts System 5
Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID power supply bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,Ultra bright.AC ballasts and AC big ballasts

Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID power supply bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,Ultra bright.AC ballasts and AC big ballasts

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Model: AC12V/35W

Working Voltage Scope: 9-16V DC  9V-32V

Rated Voltage/Current: 12.5V/3.2A -+5A   3.5A

Operating Temperature: -40 ~ 105°C, ≤3000M Altitude

Store Temperature: -40 ~ 150, ≤3000M Altitude

Max. Start Voltage: 23kV

Switch Time : >100000 Times

Working Output: 35W±3W

Working Efficiency: ≥97%

Working Load Output Voltage: 85Vdc±10Vdc

Luminous Flux: 2500-3500LM (3X More Luminous Flux Than Halogen)

Lifespan: Above: 2500h (Up To 5 Times Longer Than Halogen)

Power Consumption: Saves You 57 Over Halogen

H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H11, H13, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, 880/881, H4L, H13L, D1S, D2S, D4S etc. Are the types of our bulbs. We just listed one model


Q: When I try to start my car the auto theft light comes on and it won‘t start. Why won‘t my car start?
It may help if we know what kind of car that you have. If it is a GM car and the theft light comes on, you have a problem with the anti-theft system. When there is a problem with the theft system it will not allow the car to start. Generally on GM cars, it is usually the ignition lock cylinder or key problem. Most cars now have a computer chip or for GM a resistor chip installed in the key for prevention of theft. A reputable mechanic should be able to help you if they have the proper tools. However, with a theft system problem you may be better off taking it to the dealer. Hope this helps.
Q: my check engine light is on and when auto-zone scanned it, it came up as transmission, well I need to get the hoses in my transmission changed but I was just wondering if that would cause the light to go on. Also my battery light is on and I‘m getting the alternator belt changed this weekend, would that cause my battery light to come on? THanks so much. I have a 97‘ plymouth breeze with a 2.0 engine.
Yes issues with your transmission can turn on your check engine light, the hoes leaking are causing the transmission fluid to get low and possibly set some trans related codes, once you get them replaced and the fluid topped off, have the codes cleared and see if they return. If your belt is broken or slipping (too loose) yes it can cause your battery light to come on.but if you dont hear any squealing from the belt you might need at alternator.have your shop check the charging system before they replace the belt.Good luck!
Q: Car headlights shade wear how to do?
Can be refurbished
Q: Hi all i had a 1999 EJ8 with MF816 vtec sohc engine my problem this morning is that my car fail to start the only clue that i notice is that my abs check light wont turn off but blinking instead anyone experience this?
The ABS blinking light usually means that there is a problem with your anti-lock break system. Did it quit blinking and go away after you started it and drove it around for a bit? If so, then the car not starting probably reset the system and there is nothing wrong with your ABS System. If it is still blinking, I would take it to a mechanic that could hook up the coder machine to pin point what specifically happened in the brakes for the light to come on. The ABS light should have nothing to do with the car not starting. Process of elimination would be to check the battery first. Make sure that the cables are secured tightly to the terminals and that there is no corrosion. If the corrosion is bad, it will cause you car not to start. You can clean it up with baking soda and water, or your local parts store (which I prefer) has a spray cleaner to get the corrosion off. Take a steel brush and clean any of the corrosion that is left. Have the auto parts store test your battery and alternator to make sure those parts are not going out on you. Then the next step would be to check the starter. If your check/service engine light is on, they can pull the codes for you and tell you specifically what is happening with your engine, (I know Advanced Auto and Auto Zone have code readers and it's a free service). I hope this helps, best of luck!
Q: Usually i turn on and off the lights at home at the same time more or less, so i thought to automate it.I‘m looking for a product you can replace with the regular light‘s wall-switch that have a usb port and a switch with three levels: on, off (to overwrite the automation) and auto. and by connecting a laptop to the usb port, you can program the light when to go on and off.is there a product like that (or something somewhat similar) or in order to automate the lights at home i need to install a complex home-automation system or go to the other extreme, and install a regular, old timer that can‘t handle multiple and complex dates and times?
Try your search in Smart Houses the newer systems do just what you are looking for allot more
Q: I have a problem with a 1985 Chevy G30 van with the hydroboost system.The brakes are locking up from time to time and also are grabby at times. I know that the front brakes are locking up but I am not sure yet about the rears. If I let it set for a while the pressure bleeds of and they may be OK for a week or more. I have bled the front brakes to remove any dirt. Opening the bleeders does not to seem to instantly release the brakes either. The brake pedal does not seem to be sticking and the actuating rod length has never been changed.I have been told the master cylinder will not cause this. What about the hydro booster or proportioning valve? The brake system warning light DOES NOT come on when this happens.I am desperate here as this is the truck I use to make my living as a contractor.If anyone has experienced this please contact me.
I don't know a whole bunch about these systems, but I can tell you that the combination (AKA proportioning) valve, if it has/sees issues, will turn on. But it is designed for a brake bias issue between front and rear.if one or the other circuits drops pressure, the brake light will come on. Also, if the master cylinder leaks internally, the brake light should come on. Assuming brake light works, you need to test the combo valve to make sure it is working properly. All you do is locate it (on trucks it was located on the furthest forward crossmember, just follow the two brake lines from the master to it) and pull the single wire connector off of it. With the key in run, as I recall the circuit, the light should stay off. Now ground that wire to a clean spot on the frame or engine. The light should come on. That means the circuit is working, and IF the proportioning valve was faulty, the brake light should come on, which essentially eliminates it as a cause of the problem. Sorry I can't help beyond that, but I don't know how the hydroboost applies braking effort.almost sounds like a stuck valve somewhere.
Q: Normally when its powered off there are lights that displays but its like the entire system totally shut down.
I heard that the verse in Leviticus was mistranslated; it was supposed to say Temple Prostitution, or something.
Q: I recently bought a Cold Air Intake System and installed it, But when i did i had to unplug my MAF Sensor. Which obviously caused my car to vibrate and soon die. But what i want to know is what do i do with the MAF Sensor Plug-In with my New Intake System.
The whole point of a cold air intake is to trick the MAF into thinking that the cold air is actually underhood hot air. So, the MAF still has to be part of the system. If you unplug it, the computer will run off of a default factory program which will turn on your check engine light. Plus, it defeats the whole purpose of the cold air intake. Rick I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot
Q: 2002 Honda Civic sedan with 94,300 miles. Never any maintenance done except oil changes. All original parts except for tires and battery. I had an auto parts store check the code. It was P1457 which indicates there is a leak in the evaporative emission control system in the control canister. The man that checked the code deleted it and the light has not come back on. Should I still have it checked?
not unless light comes back on sometimes codes come up in error you may not have a vac leak maybe had pressure change that went right back to normal but OBD detected it and on came the light
Q: it wont start but i can push start it but when its on all of the dash lights stay on and when i try too unhook the battery it dies also when i try to start it the starter motor just clicks??? could this be the alternator???
most likely,most auto part stores can check the charging system for you,or just the alternator,lights are probably staying on due to low voltage,if alternator checks out good,check for a short between alternator and battery

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