D2s bulbs ,12V Plastic and Metal stand bulbs.HID ballasts 12V 35W
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100% Shockproof
100% Waterproof
Model: AC12V/35W
Working Voltage Scope: 9-16V DC 9V-32V
Rated Voltage/Current: 12.5V/3.2A -+5A 3.5A
Operating Temperature: -40 ~ 105°C, ≤3000M Altitude
Store Temperature: -40 ~ 150, ≤3000M Altitude
Max. Start Voltage: 23kV
Switch Time : >100000 Times
Working Output: 35W±3W
Working Efficiency: ≥97%
Working Load Output Voltage: 85Vdc±10Vdc
Luminous Flux: 2500-3500LM (3X More Luminous Flux Than Halogen)
Lifespan: Above: 2500h (Up To 5 Times Longer Than Halogen)
Power Consumption: Saves You 57 Over Halogen
H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H11, H13, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, 880/881, H4L, H13L, D1S, D2S, D4S etc. Are the types of our bulbs. We just listed one model
- Q: Just got a 2012 Nissan Frontier. It has lights on the rearview, green one on left always on, and the other one stays off. I don't have the Homelink system and can't find anywhere in the manual what else they might be for. Anyone know?
- You may have the auto dimming rear view mirror. Nissan calls it (automatic anti-glare) Owners Hand Book section 3 page 15 Green light on means that when head lights from cars behind hits the sensor photooptic cell that causes the liquid crystals inside the mirror glass to darken. Good Luck
- Q: Over the weekend our 1997 Honda Civic sedan developed an interesting problem. After starting the car and pushing on the brake I cannot shift the auto transmission out of Park. So I first have to manually unlock it, shift to Neutral and then start the car. Also the horn is now not working. I checked the horn fuse which was blown and replaced it but upon trying to test the horn the fuse blew again. Any ideas on what the problem could be?
- sounds like a electric problem
- Q: My spark plugs and wiring and tubing on my car cylinder (99 Plymouth neon) were drenched in oil. The problem got fixed. or so I thought. The people at advanced read it on their machine before it got repaired and said cylinder 2 misfired. When driving it it surge and kinda hesitate when accelerating. Check engine light came on and off. drove me crazy. After the car got repaired, same thing (a week later, after getting off of the interstate). I even got an oil change 4 hours after it got repaired! What‘s wrong? I‘d like to have a good idea what‘s wrong before I take it back to the shop and/or probably causing it. Bad spark plugs, oil pump cruddy? Help! I‘m hyperventilating.
- Hopefully the problem is only due to the fault code(s) needing to be cleared. As your car is post 1996, this can only be done with an OBD 2 scan tool. Most any auto parts store can do this for you if you do not have this tool. You can try the old method to clear them by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least fifteen seconds, but it might not work due to the fact of the newer type diagnostic system. On Chrysler products after 96, all cars went to the new OBD 2 system, but Chrysler did leave in the ability to check most codes with the old method of Key On, Key Off to read them on the check engine light. The only problem with this is the old method does not read all the codes possible on the newer computers. It still may require the diagnostic tool to check to see what codes are found before clearing them. Some other problem may have been noticed.
- Q: the car drive smooth and check engine light was not coming on now 2days later it is onDoes this always mean something is wrong with the engine?How come light did not come on when i test drove it and kept starting it up and cutting it off it also sounds really quiet but not two days later i go to start up the car and the check engine light come on could they had of known this and did something for light to not come on when i test drove? Other then the light coming on there are no problems i can see with this vehicle.ANy and all answers will be helpfulThanks
- The check engine light comes on when a sensor reads out of the allowable range. It could have been caused by something simple, such as not turning the car off when you were getting fuel (setting an evaporative emissions system code), or it could have been caused by an engine misfire, or other problem. Have the computer scanned for codes, many auto parts chains will do this for free. The code will tell you what the problem is.
- Q: I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima. I got it from my uncle. He babied the car. He never really drove but only once a week. He had it service and interior and exterior is clean inside out. But the check engine light is on. He said he had it looked at but it was nothing and it was on the whole time he had. But it‘s not always on. One day It wasn‘t on and I was happy but now it‘s on everyday. I hope it‘s not nothing major. The car has no problems. I don‘t know what it could be. If its a bad sensor why was it off for that one day and a couple other days.
- On Board Diagnostic 2 or OBD2 systems in cars 1996 and newer turn on the check engine light. Almost never does a engine light come on for no reason. Anytime the car detects something that may cause more emissions you get a light. Go to auto parts store that will read the code and get back to us at answers and we'll help. Good Luck
- Q: But feels hot
- Unplug the destructive battery terminal and enable it take a seat for quarter-hour. which will re-flash the laptop. If the verify engine easy is going off then its ok. If it keeps to be on take it as much as a motor vehicle zone and have them verify it out. heavily regardless of the shown fact that take those warnings with a grain of sand. some human beings think of those lighting fixtures are set to teach on at set periods so which you're taking it into the dealership for paintings to be achieved to it. My 2005 mustang easy has been on on condition that 40k miles. i'm 100k now without themes.
- Q: Is ttl basically the same thing as auto except that ttl tells the flash what yur camera settings are and in auto u have to manually dial in the settings? Also, there is something called i-tt(for nikon) and a a comparable function for other camera manufacturers where teh camera shoots a quick preflash to determine exposure. What is, if any, the advantage to i-tt. Is it any more accurate than auto or ttl?
- As with anything else, the anwer is: it depends. In a TTL flash system, the camera measures the flash through the lens (which is what TTL means) and tells the flash when to shut off. An auto flash measures the light itself. Both can be fooled by the same things, like a reflective surface or a large amount of dark colors in a shot. I use both kinds, and for me, the auto flash is more consistent. Yes, you have to set the ISO and aperture on the flash to match what you are using on the camera, where a TTL unit already knows these things. The camera and flash are not re-measuring the scene for each shot, which a TTL system does, and can give you widely variable results from shot to shot. The camera meter controls the flash, and if you meter on a bright spot one shot, and a dark spot the second shot, the flash output will be very different. An auto unit is measuring the entire scene each shot, not one specific area. What the TTL units make easy is fill flash. You don't have to measure or calculate or make a best guess as to the flash power, you just shoot and it works. Nikon even has a specific flash mode for this. I shoot E-TTL with Canon gear, although I find that it tends to underexpose the flash by 2/3 to 1 full stop, and that is with 2 different flashes. With my Sony digital, and Minolta and Nikon film cameras, I use all auto flashes. I get results as good, or better, than the E-TTL stuff, without the constant underexposure of the Canon system.
- Q: I have a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I want to replace the standard stock headlights and fog light bulbs by a much brighter white bulbs. I don‘t have a good knowledge about how light bulbs are ranked according to their brightness. I don‘t really like the after market bulbs that some cars have, which the color looks almost blue or purple. A guy from advance auto part suggested me to get a Sylvania Super White for $50/pair. Is that the good brand, are they gonna be WHITE or will turn blue or purple? Anyone has any better suggestion for me? Thanks a lot!
- Run with the standard bulbs, or even extra vision bulbs from Sylvania. I only buy Sylvania! Too high a wattage they'll tend to burn out faster. If you're driving through fog or heavy snow you'll be able to see better with only your fog n parking lights on, your high beams in snow or fog only reflect light back at ya and you won't see but a few feet past your hood.
- Q: You can be driving down the road at 55mph at 2200 rpm, andit comes on and it will be stuck in 2 gear for a while and it will be 3000rpm at 45mph. It seems to come on more when its warm outside. Can someone help. Thanks
- The S light isn't the reason your car is malfunctioning; it is the indicator to let you know that the computer that controls the transmission has detected a problem in the transmission control system. The light comes on to let you know that there is a problem; it is not telling you that you are in sport mode and that the transmission is acting improperly because you are in sport mode when you shouldn't be. does that make sense? When that sport light is put on by the transmission control unit to tell you there is a problem, the control unit will store a diagnostic trouble code to indicate what circuit or component is malfunctioning. In many cases it is a problem with a sensor, such as a vehicle speed sensor. when a speed sensor fails the computer doesn't know how fast the car is going and can't judge what gear the trans should be in so it goes into a 'fail safe' mode using pre-programmed values so that you can still drive the car. That sounds like what you are describing. There are several sensors and solenoids. If you want to fix the car, you'll need to take the car to a Honda dealer to have them retrieve the diagnostic code and to determine which part is at fault. Because of the age of the vehicle, I'd recommend the dealer as they have the diagnostic tools and manuals for the older cars rather than taking it to a trans shop or independent who doesn't have access to those resources. You can pay for diagnosis only and make a decision on what to do or who should do it after they determine what's required. hope that helps
- Q: yesterday i went to the gas station when i went to start my car it wouldnt turn over or do anything so i got a jump start and it seemed to run ok but after a few miles the radio and dash lights started to flicker on and off. then after a little while my car stalled and died at a red light and wouldnt crank over again it would just make a fast clicking noise i got it towed home and let it sit overnight and today when i went to try to start it, it started up just fine without me doin anything to it help what could be wrong i dont know where to start oh btw its a 88 toyota tercel
- No, when your pads need to be replaced your brake light will remain on.It would be coincidental if your pads needed replacing at that time.
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D2s bulbs ,12V Plastic and Metal stand bulbs.HID ballasts 12V 35W
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
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